tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-92043784056793273322024-03-19T08:25:42.917-01:00Temperate Climate Permaculture<i>A single resource on gardening, farming, homesteading, and self-sufficiency using Permaculture principles designed for temperate climates. </i>John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.comBlogger417125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-62125220420525594112013-04-23T20:17:00.001+00:002013-04-23T20:17:17.487+00:00The New Site is Done!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Please come on over and check it out. I will keep this site up as an archive, but all new posts and articles will be on the new site.John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com252tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-85841003682062789272013-04-15T21:51:00.002+00:002013-04-15T21:51:55.752+00:00The New Site is Almost Done!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Coming Soon!</div>
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com124tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-85341263137959790292013-04-04T16:58:00.002+00:002013-04-04T17:04:06.353+00:00Permaculture Plants: Aronia or Chokeberry<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmDftV3Mkn_pI47lsthNbKNog888FkhIDnMaCaKcGEupbpfiJ-dn7E8Lms6hgy2BIIJGOm8SNg1evGDUqqpWGbRnYo4s_AwusUhXylgbfEqB02CHITqXIgp_svr0T8h7u28GcgfVubtkW/s1600/Aronia01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmDftV3Mkn_pI47lsthNbKNog888FkhIDnMaCaKcGEupbpfiJ-dn7E8Lms6hgy2BIIJGOm8SNg1evGDUqqpWGbRnYo4s_AwusUhXylgbfEqB02CHITqXIgp_svr0T8h7u28GcgfVubtkW/s400/Aronia01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Aronia, or Chokeberry, is a great shrub for the Forest Garden</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>)</span></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_q5FOh3a30wI/TNXHqSeDnWI/AAAAAAAAB6g/CqVaSDrNR80/s1600/DSCN8494.JPG">http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_q5FOh3a30wI/TNXHqSeDnWI/AAAAAAAAB6g/CqVaSDrNR80/s1600/DSCN8494.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Common Name: Aronia, Chokeberry</span></b><br />
<b>Scientific Name: </b><i>Aronia </i>species<br />
<b>Family:</b> Rosaceae (the Rose family)<br />
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<b>Red Chokeberry (<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>)</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.florafinder.com/LargePhotos/D2/Aronia_arbutifolia-18A9A498D2.jpg">http://www.florafinder.com/LargePhotos/D2/Aronia_arbutifolia-18A9A498D2.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Species: </b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Red Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) - Large Shrub, Red Fruit</li>
<li><b>Black Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>) - Small to Medium-sized Shrub, Dark Purple-Black Fruit</li>
<li><b>Purple Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia prunifolia</i>) - natural hybrid of Red and Black Chokeberry, but is now likely its own species</li>
</ul>
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<b>Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>)</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMyfgxmxBi88hW6E8Ul4vAGlwARiEtITvvCRZ-TPqbJJBbkNarXh8ppRP6SPqpEJTGIQ-eQoWCRb62MoPKR5zFSr-_Fuot8YV7B_aVR_wYwzlf8hRQcCLSKwY_civ7lfNQcO3pHR44Pc/s1600/2011-05-29.jpg">https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMyfgxmxBi88hW6E8Ul4vAGlwARiEtITvvCRZ-TPqbJJBbkNarXh8ppRP6SPqpEJTGIQ-eQoWCRb62MoPKR5zFSr-_Fuot8YV7B_aVR_wYwzlf8hRQcCLSKwY_civ7lfNQcO3pHR44Pc/s1600/2011-05-29.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Description:</b><br />
The North American shrub known as Chokeberry had an extreme makeover once its nutritional profile was discovered. High in vitamin C and antioxidants, it is being touted as the healthiest fruit in the world. This new "superfood" was re-branded as Aronia (its scientific name), and it is now a common addition to juices and other health snacks. Typically a bit too astringent to eat raw, hence the original name, the fruit can easily be used in jams and jellies and even wines. It can also be made into syrup and tea. In the Forest Garden, it will attract beneficial insects, can withstand periods of drought, can be used as a windbreak and fruit-bearing hedge, and is strikingly beautiful most of the year.<br />
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<b>Red Chokeberry (<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) by Mary Walcott, 1925</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://mullincollectibles.com/EBAY/WALCOTTFLOWERS/red-chokeberry-31a.jpg">http://mullincollectibles.com/EBAY/WALCOTTFLOWERS/red-chokeberry-31a.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>History:</b><br />
The Aronia species are native to eastern North America. They have likely been used for thousands of years by natives for food and medicine. They have been used for some time as ornamentals, but it is only recently that they have become significantly more popular once they gained "health food" status.<br />
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<b>Trivia:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>The common name "Chokeberry" was given because, when raw, the fruit is typically too astringent (drying or mouth puckering). Many birds will avoid this berry until all other fruit sources are gone. This will often leave the fruit on the plants through mid-Winter.</li>
<li>The Aronia (aka ChokeBERRY) should not be confused with <i>Prunus virginiana,</i> the ChokeCHERRY, although fruits from both similar-looking plants are edible.</li>
<li>The fruit of Aronia is very high in vitamin C and antioxidants (specifically anthocyanins found in the Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>).</li>
<li>A mature plant can have up to 40 canes per shrub.</li>
</ul>
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<b>Apple and Chokeberry Wine</b></div>
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<i><a href="http://dotolearn.wordpress.com/2012/10/15/favorite-apple-chokeberry-wine/">http://dotolearn.wordpress.com/2012/10/15/favorite-apple-chokeberry-wine/</a></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht99exMEciYjGpIynlsat_ISBh9-LhKvhYh_fAACYf0TvtDaltCzjR8A6mMrKknolgb79aRO4tfvMzicE2_EBnURGju8D49Y-KA5PlzCJXyBu4A9f7p3Xd41rMTmRWHyOyCTt3IgSaTh1m/s1600/Aronia10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht99exMEciYjGpIynlsat_ISBh9-LhKvhYh_fAACYf0TvtDaltCzjR8A6mMrKknolgb79aRO4tfvMzicE2_EBnURGju8D49Y-KA5PlzCJXyBu4A9f7p3Xd41rMTmRWHyOyCTt3IgSaTh1m/s400/Aronia10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Chokeberry Jam</b></div>
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<i><a href="http://agagonczarek.com/index.php/2011/09/food-story-part-2-black-chokeberry-jam/">http://agagonczarek.com/index.php/2011/09/food-story-part-2-black-chokeberry-jam/</a></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">USING THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Primary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Edible fruit - usually cooked. Some improved varieties are mild enough to be eaten raw (see Trivia above).</li>
<li>Preserved Fruit - jams, jellies, preserves, etc. (naturally high in pectin). Can also be dried and used in teas and pemmican.</li>
<li>Fruit Juice - if mixed in a 1:1 ratio with another juice that is naturally sweet (like apple juice), then no other sweetener is needed</li>
<li>Juice can be reduced with heat to make syrup.</li>
<li>Primary or adjunct flavor in wines, but likely could be used in beers and liquors.</li>
<li>Tea Plant (dried fruits are used)</li>
<li><b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/02/fruit-leather.html">Fruit Leather</a></b></li>
</ul>
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<b>Secondary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>General insect (especially bees) nectar plant</li>
<li>Wildlife food plant, especially birds, in Winter</li>
<li>Wildlife shelter plant for small mammals and birds</li>
<li>Groundcover plant - Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>), plant 3-4 feet (1 meter) apart</li>
<li>Ornamental Garden Plant</li>
<li>Drought-Resistant Plant - can withstand low water periods, but not extremely prolonged dry periods.</li>
<li>Windbreak species</li>
<li>Living Fence species</li>
</ul>
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<b>Yield: </b>This varies dramatically on age, variety, and growing conditions, but a mature plant can average 22 lbs (10 kg) per year. Reports of almost 40 lbs (17 kg) per bush have been reported.<br />
<b>Harvesting: </b>Autumn. Only harvest when fully ripe. Taste is better after a frost. A berry comb will greatly assist harvesting the small fruits.<br />
<b>Storage: </b>Best when used fresh. Can be stored in a cool place (like a refrigerator) for up to two weeks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTEOsMgsGM87JNV4azKUCQd8yS_TuHuhKdM50QqBh7y69xSoiBt2rKtqIt5OhyphenhyphenEASJ8DeqWypjbe13WV0LRTZBn5ut37fWwTrqN3Zdswp432CGUb27ncEt0Yfmrv8lhd6z7zGzsPGONxlh/s1600/Aronia05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTEOsMgsGM87JNV4azKUCQd8yS_TuHuhKdM50QqBh7y69xSoiBt2rKtqIt5OhyphenhyphenEASJ8DeqWypjbe13WV0LRTZBn5ut37fWwTrqN3Zdswp432CGUb27ncEt0Yfmrv8lhd6z7zGzsPGONxlh/s400/Aronia05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Aronia can be used as a hedge or windbreak...</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>)</span></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/35088526/aview/TN281-2.JPG">http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/35088526/aview/TN281-2.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b>...and it is beautiful in the Autumn...</b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal;">Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>)</span></b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://static1.plantdatabase.info/plant_imgs/size2/Aronia_x_prunifolia_I29996P97715.jpg">http://static1.plantdatabase.info/plant_imgs/size2/Aronia_x_prunifolia_I29996P97715.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>...and Winter.</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Red Chokeberry (<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>)</span></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.goldenhillplants.com/images/Aronia-pBrillianGR.jpg">http://www.goldenhillplants.com/images/Aronia-pBrillianGR.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">USDA Hardiness Zone:</a></b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Red Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) - Zone 4-9</li>
<li><b>Black Chokeberry</b> (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>) - Zone 3-8</li>
<li><b>Purple Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia prunifolia</i>) - Zone 4-7</li>
</ul>
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<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">AHS Heat Zone:</a></b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Red Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) - Zone 8-4</li>
<li><b>Black Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>) - Zone 8-1</li>
<li><b>Purple Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia prunifolia</i>) - Zone 8-1 </li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/chilling-requirement-for-plants.html">Chill Requirement:</a> </b>Likely, but no tested information is available; however, some studious amateurs suggest 800-1,000 chilling hours/units are needed for good flowering.<br />
<br />
<b>Plant Type: </b>Shrub<br />
<b>Leaf Type: </b>Deciduous<br />
<b>Forest Garden Use: </b>Shrub Layer, Groundcover Layer<br />
<b>Cultivars/Varieties: </b>Multiple varieties available<br />
<br />
<b>Pollination: </b>Self-Pollinating. Pollinated by insects.<br />
<b>Flowering: </b>Spring-Summer (May-June)<br />
<br />
<b>Life Span:</b><br />
<b>Years to Begin Bearing:</b> 2-3 years<br />
<b>Years of Useful Life: </b>No good information available, but this plant freely suckers. As one plant is starting to decline, a suckering plant can be established to take the original plant's place in the garden and in production.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJu4QXk1O3C_jMVn598m6hu2Mx9HLv1RxfdKuutqq_Vr1AL3SBtDGmn1yZDDkYZY2O20-rL6VJziFSLxeNIhWJuv4HsHgKlipbkG99LQnyUkqgwrlO62OBIusP3s4Q2g8Q9lazzRQCJ41R/s1600/Aronia04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJu4QXk1O3C_jMVn598m6hu2Mx9HLv1RxfdKuutqq_Vr1AL3SBtDGmn1yZDDkYZY2O20-rL6VJziFSLxeNIhWJuv4HsHgKlipbkG99LQnyUkqgwrlO62OBIusP3s4Q2g8Q9lazzRQCJ41R/s400/Aronia04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Red Chokeberry (<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>)</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.florafinder.com/LargePhotos/DB/Aronia_arbutifolia_Brilliantissima-87398671FB.jpg">http://www.florafinder.com/LargePhotos/DB/Aronia_arbutifolia_Brilliantissima-87398671FB.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Mr9KcmjD_C1WlMKApTwHJ-M5RiBcy5FEiKTjkeKC_GxEomdmvck6CGpZLtIN1412WyEl1dmZpxFGjGXt-B_o268qnHxPRbXCJWMrGQh7cEYjM504S1eM9SHRLhyphenhyphenxbsQHkUz94Z_6btxC/s1600/Aronia13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Mr9KcmjD_C1WlMKApTwHJ-M5RiBcy5FEiKTjkeKC_GxEomdmvck6CGpZLtIN1412WyEl1dmZpxFGjGXt-B_o268qnHxPRbXCJWMrGQh7cEYjM504S1eM9SHRLhyphenhyphenxbsQHkUz94Z_6btxC/s400/Aronia13.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2010/02/aronia-berries-the-next-a-a/35016/">http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2010/02/aronia-berries-the-next-a-a/35016/</a></i></div>
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Size: </b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Red Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) - 6-13 feet (1.8-4 meters) tall and 3-9 feet (0.9-3 meters) wide</li>
<li><b>Black Chokeberry</b> (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>) - 1.5-6 feet (0.4-1.8 meters) tall and 6-10 feet (1.8-3 meters) wide</li>
<li><b>Purple Chokeberry</b> (<i>Aronia prunifolia</i>) - 6-9 feet (1.8-3 meters) tall and 3-8 feet (0.9-2.5 meters) wide</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Roots: </b>Fibrous with the ability to sucker (send up shoots from underground roots)<br />
<br />
<b>Growth Rate: </b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Red Chokeberry</b> (<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) - Slow</li>
<li><b>Black Chokeberry </b>(<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>) - Slow to Fast (depending on environmental factors)</li>
</ul>
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<b>These shrubs can be quite prolific!</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://livingmydreamlifeonthefarm.wordpress.com/2011/08/12/my-most-available-local-wild-fruits-chokeberries-and-elderberries/">http://livingmydreamlifeonthefarm.wordpress.com/2011/08/12/my-most-available-local-wild-fruits-chokeberries-and-elderberries/</a></span></i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Light:</b> Full to partial sun<br />
<b>Shade: </b>Tolerates moderate shade, but fruit production is lower<br />
<b>Moisture: </b>Can grow in wet to dry soils<br />
<b>pH: </b>prefers acidic to neutral soil (5.1 - 6.5), but can grow in a wide range (5.0-8.5)<br />
<br />
<b>Special Considerations for Growing: </b><br />
<ul>
<li>Consider growing an improved variety for more or larger fruits.</li>
<li>Aronia does not tolerate juglone (a natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Consider using another plant as a buffer between your walnuts and Aronias.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Propagation: </b><br />
Usually from seed. Needs 12-13 weeks cold stratification for germination. Can be propagated from cuttings of half-ripe wood in Summer (cut one half inch below a node). Can divide suckers in late Autumn and Winter when the plant is dormant.<br />
<br />
<b>Maintenance:</b><br />
Minimal, but will need to cut back suckers if not wanted. Also, thinning older canes once every few years will keep the plants more productive.<br />
<br />
<b>Concerns:</b><br />
Red Chokeberry (<i>Aronia arbutifolia</i>) can sucker a bit more aggressively than the Black Chokeberry (<i>Aronia melanocarpa</i>); however, these are rarely invasive.<br />
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com98tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-41068611166492733852013-04-03T07:03:00.000+00:002013-04-03T07:03:33.330+00:00Free Plant Guilds E-Book from Midwest Permaculture<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjWT7T8qdavFPJLTmvEvjce3bW0jRrVORTdHhfghk4D12LqdijQnS2KSrOO78Mk1OJEuR9Re52vAfr1RfUgmyUcDVxRlZdMeQGWcVSkOoJUqPESai-P_IevGL31zeBEDfnRp_hDCcieY78/s1600/Midwest+Permaculture+Logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjWT7T8qdavFPJLTmvEvjce3bW0jRrVORTdHhfghk4D12LqdijQnS2KSrOO78Mk1OJEuR9Re52vAfr1RfUgmyUcDVxRlZdMeQGWcVSkOoJUqPESai-P_IevGL31zeBEDfnRp_hDCcieY78/s320/Midwest+Permaculture+Logo.jpg" width="315" /></a></div>
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<b><i><a href="http://midwestpermaculture.com/">http://midwestpermaculture.com/</a></i></b></div>
<br />
The team over at Midwest Permaculture has been doing some great work lately, and this free eBook on Plant Guilds is great! If you are unfamiliar with the concept of guilds, you can <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/permaculture-guilds.html">read my article on Permaculture Guilds</a></i></b>.<br />
<br />
This eBook is a great resource for Permaculture in a Temperate Climate... so, of course, I had to share it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhM3eIYdhbRfSPkPd6RN4sV81EhuSMPrzMYltH-OGW31LerepzewC9ROXJTySXyihJ0WebFJHUE-78oTaMD3e7Id5spKI_40ZV-lzpFESE1a-N0FNeSDkQBepK43-Y1ZL-mXJmaBpxAL0/s1600/Midwest+Permaculture+EBook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhM3eIYdhbRfSPkPd6RN4sV81EhuSMPrzMYltH-OGW31LerepzewC9ROXJTySXyihJ0WebFJHUE-78oTaMD3e7Id5spKI_40ZV-lzpFESE1a-N0FNeSDkQBepK43-Y1ZL-mXJmaBpxAL0/s400/Midwest+Permaculture+EBook.jpg" width="306" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://tcpermaculture.com/docs/Plant%20Guilds%20eBooklet%20-%20Midwest%20Permaculture.pdf">Download the eBook here!</a></b></div>
<br />
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com247tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-91359955449218457302013-04-02T05:50:00.000+00:002013-04-02T05:50:17.119+00:00Mob Grazing on the Farm and on the Homestead: Greg Judy and Jack Spirko<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdC6mt6T6eNk15u3r_eAXlPGS2eIj8xpREuIOYJO0H_J63Mh_uAEysTvmXbGBHrDDgY00SdSxyhUGziuCy36dwCrOHiIHmgsP6erSxciG5hL7ndRtnmX9wZrDeErI_qB3X3PrwAzUE8Ga2/s1600/MobGrazing_Cattle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdC6mt6T6eNk15u3r_eAXlPGS2eIj8xpREuIOYJO0H_J63Mh_uAEysTvmXbGBHrDDgY00SdSxyhUGziuCy36dwCrOHiIHmgsP6erSxciG5hL7ndRtnmX9wZrDeErI_qB3X3PrwAzUE8Ga2/s400/MobGrazing_Cattle.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Cattle are the most well known Mob Grazers.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.producer.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/59_4col_BJD062910mob_grazing_3-copy-728x277.jpg">http://www.producer.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/59_4col_BJD062910mob_grazing_3-copy-728x277.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<br />
I recently shared a TED Talk by Allan Savory (<b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/allan-savorys-ted-talk-how-to-green.html">you can see that article here</a></i></b>) on how to reverse desertification by using intensive rotational grazing, a.k.a. "mob grazing" with cattle. As is with most TED Talks, the discussion was big on ideas but not on details. That is the point with TED Talks though. They want to spread ideas just to get them out there.<br />
<br />
However, the following lecture by Greg Judy, which was given at the Virginia Biological Farming Conference in 2011, really explains the why and how of this amazing idea. If you have any interest in keeping livestock, in healing the land, or in the care of animals in a humane way, I would recommend watching this keynote address:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/W6HGKSvjk5Q?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6HGKSvjk5Q">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6HGKSvjk5Q</a></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVI1scNa1HYgQdEiwcky2eHTBilTF-lLrji3X1ew2aUkYqXTfXYOVUwuYM4WrMd9l5LknPk1tGbt1mJAasVfEjqnscv8jFLMIcqWsMFXkxoJbo5uQMPPLtuy5KUZiCHyaXKH5r38P-4yYd/s1600/MobGrazing_Geese.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVI1scNa1HYgQdEiwcky2eHTBilTF-lLrji3X1ew2aUkYqXTfXYOVUwuYM4WrMd9l5LknPk1tGbt1mJAasVfEjqnscv8jFLMIcqWsMFXkxoJbo5uQMPPLtuy5KUZiCHyaXKH5r38P-4yYd/s400/MobGrazing_Geese.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Geese are a smaller-scale alternative to Mob Grazing.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://imgc.artprintimages.com/images/art-print/domestic-geese-graze-on-the-lawn-by-a-local-farmers-house_i-G-28-2878-RK1PD00Z.jpg">http://imgc.artprintimages.com/images/art-print/domestic-geese-graze-on-the-lawn-by-a-local-farmers-house_i-G-28-2878-RK1PD00Z.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<br />
Now, what if you love the idea of Mob Grazing, but you either don't want to keep cattle or don't live on a 100+ acre farm? What if you have a little "land"... like a large suburban yard? Well, if you live in an area where you can keep geese or chickens or even a few goats, then I would really recommend listening to the following podcast by Jack Spirko from The Survival Podcast. Jack spends a lot of time discussing homesteading and Permaculture, and this podcast focuses on using animals other than cattle for homestead-level Mob Grazing: <b><i><a href="http://www.thesurvivalpodcast.com/episode-1087-taking-mob-grazing-to-the-small-piece-of-land">Taking "Mob Grazing" to the Small Piece of Land</a></i></b>.<br />
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<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com65tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-89983670141747324842013-04-01T07:08:00.001+00:002013-04-01T07:08:09.748+00:00Portugal, please say "No!" to the McBifana.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbeyFE1ry9f7b02Ts8SlslZ1qBsjOoAJnVTxahSYiILiiU8wDBfonq3a8Ff1Ohs-bTShxrMlGK05oAz5OsHULkQzTVoY3CoE0QMX_JKrnhUXNwlw86L95amEznitBANplSLhguM-8_Mck/s1600/McBifana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbeyFE1ry9f7b02Ts8SlslZ1qBsjOoAJnVTxahSYiILiiU8wDBfonq3a8Ff1Ohs-bTShxrMlGK05oAz5OsHULkQzTVoY3CoE0QMX_JKrnhUXNwlw86L95amEznitBANplSLhguM-8_Mck/s400/McBifana.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
<br />
I recently spent a few days in Lisbon, Portugal. I was walking one morning, and I came across this advertisement at a bus stop. I was very disappointed.<br />
<br />
A bifana is a traditional Portuguese snack or light meal. It consists of a thinly sliced beef or pork steak placed between a sliced roll. By contrast, a McBifana is the exact opposite of a traditional food. It is a large, international, billion-dollar, food corporation that is coming in and trying to replace a food that is best made locally... by locals with local ingredients.<br />
<br />
In reality, I support the free market, so I am not suggesting Portugal ban McDonalds. However, what I would love to see is the Portuguese avoid this food so McDonalds has to take it off their menu. Some things should not be in the realm of fast-food. Okay, pretty much nothing should be in the realm of fast-food if you actually care about quality food and health, but bastardizing a bifana is going a bit too far.<br />
<br />
For a bit more information on a similar concept, I wrote a brief <strong><em><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/resources-for-heirloom-foods-slow-food.html">article on the Slow Food Movement that you can read</a></em></strong> here. <br />
John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com69tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-85476992807878949282013-03-27T15:51:00.000-01:002013-03-27T15:51:08.324-01:00Asian Pear Pollination Charts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNXcrxpi436WBvcraHIkl7h1TTtVlzf0mi9e5op6XlYUhwoxmlprlhC0_bq55dlxI6-uCTK9oWWO1B1je5YdJpyaX64INrFEhiLA7ZzRx2SfXGyGjETWdJkJuRN5pVoKjh5fHWt46iGta/s1600/Asian+Pear+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNXcrxpi436WBvcraHIkl7h1TTtVlzf0mi9e5op6XlYUhwoxmlprlhC0_bq55dlxI6-uCTK9oWWO1B1je5YdJpyaX64INrFEhiLA7ZzRx2SfXGyGjETWdJkJuRN5pVoKjh5fHWt46iGta/s400/Asian+Pear+04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pyrus_pyrifolia.jpg" style="color: #114c1b; text-decoration: none;">http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pyrus_pyrifolia.jpg</a></span></i></span></div>
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<br />
Just a quick reference for Asian Pear pollination. Follow these links if you want to read more about <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/permaculture-plants-asian-pears.html">growing Asian Pears</a></i></b> or if you want to read more about some of the <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/asian-pear-varieties-just-sampling.html">many varieties of Asian Pears</a></i></b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGiWibRR6p0r93gvsWXsGBQ2gvftUZ7T70StRdc6QQAuFM0al7zBsx0xCVBfc8eAY_ZpfofgBKKaLMP6RyjcS8fy-Tle0sa4o_9qT0oSsbvTKXzVpScUZKZk00r1ynjFeGD3gDkBKCx4_p/s1600/Asian+Pear+Pollination+Chart+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGiWibRR6p0r93gvsWXsGBQ2gvftUZ7T70StRdc6QQAuFM0al7zBsx0xCVBfc8eAY_ZpfofgBKKaLMP6RyjcS8fy-Tle0sa4o_9qT0oSsbvTKXzVpScUZKZk00r1ynjFeGD3gDkBKCx4_p/s640/Asian+Pear+Pollination+Chart+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.burntridgenursery.com/plantResources/Asianpearpollinationchart.pdf">http://www.burntridgenursery.com/plantResources/Asianpearpollinationchart.pdf</a></span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.raintreenursery.com/skin/common_files/customer/images/pollination/aPearPollinChart.JPG">http://www.raintreenursery.com/skin/common_files/customer/images/pollination/aPearPollinChart.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com116tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-3674765074720447032013-03-26T14:03:00.002-01:002013-03-26T14:03:35.941-01:00Allan Savory's TED Talk: How to green the desert and reverse climate change<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-f0n4qV0djpHwu9w8XzwxfWhqY7tz9Bz3C7csPo8rRLyq-8U1cO-TkZv4pyKiB2fLqtetAwI51DAD-svNS_djTnVFCSLRMQFe8kr4mP8k5lZV0NayasVBsEqXZepaUwMAdNdNhGBXxP4/s1600/Allan+Savory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-f0n4qV0djpHwu9w8XzwxfWhqY7tz9Bz3C7csPo8rRLyq-8U1cO-TkZv4pyKiB2fLqtetAwI51DAD-svNS_djTnVFCSLRMQFe8kr4mP8k5lZV0NayasVBsEqXZepaUwMAdNdNhGBXxP4/s400/Allan+Savory.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Allan Savory</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.greenbiz.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/wide_large/savory.jpg">http://www.greenbiz.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/wide_large/savory.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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This presentation has been going around the "Permaculture World" for the last month. It is amazing. This is a must watch video if you have any interest in repairing our broken ecosystems.</div>
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From the TED website:</div>
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<i>“Desertification is a fancy word for land that is turning to
desert,” begins Allan Savory in this quietly powerful talk. And it's
happening to about two-thirds of the world’s grasslands, accelerating
climate change and causing traditional grazing societies to descend into
social chaos. Savory has devoted his life to stopping it. He now
believes -- and his work so far shows -- that a surprising factor can
protect grasslands and even reclaim degraded land that was once desert. </i></div>
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Allan Savory works to promote holistic management in the grasslands of the world</i><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/vpTHi7O66pI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpTHi7O66pI">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpTHi7O66pI</a></i></div>
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<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com61tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-9389404580790287682013-03-25T06:09:00.001-01:002013-03-25T06:09:57.475-01:00Great, Quick Video on Asian Pears<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75nIR1a8iN-JvpdGkpdF1I4RaaLOJ5KDsTcmGmf2XcuIFhfhnqgvXw9Skh6pA4ZpofoCzinYSuhNiwoxEek_6j8qE2Ii99Km-cInCOU3UnE5A0jiUSFgOiqqoKOO7hmDLrM_3X4a8wn-A/s1600/Asian+Pear+Video.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75nIR1a8iN-JvpdGkpdF1I4RaaLOJ5KDsTcmGmf2XcuIFhfhnqgvXw9Skh6pA4ZpofoCzinYSuhNiwoxEek_6j8qE2Ii99Km-cInCOU3UnE5A0jiUSFgOiqqoKOO7hmDLrM_3X4a8wn-A/s400/Asian+Pear+Video.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Isc2tIQYQcw">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Isc2tIQYQcw</a></i></b></div>
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I recently wrote an article about <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/permaculture-plants-asian-pears.html">Growing Asian Pears</a></i></b> and an article outlining <a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/asian-pear-varieties-just-sampling.html"><i><b>25 Varieties of Asian Pears</b></i></a>. As I was researching information about pollination charts (see tomorrow's post), I came across this video.<br />
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Tom Spellman from Dave Wilson Nursery talks about some of the more popular Asian Pear varieties. Great video, only 3 minutes long. Fun stuff!<br />
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<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com107tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-19662840520017093462013-03-22T19:53:00.000-01:002013-03-22T20:02:33.308-01:00Update - What I am Brewing: Azorean Blackberry Fig Honey Wine <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02AkkIqhTUy8_U_IrAKTYgIHBpqWjZmJmDeTtneXAets2H6xIxePhQT9vTCBKNJwh_boLvDzELXzvLmrqh7HhGKdZFq-sf1aSMuVRO0zBZvCNM_5sRTlNLGhTDhNRAzdz7X1Y4tEYbjQQ/s1600/Mead07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02AkkIqhTUy8_U_IrAKTYgIHBpqWjZmJmDeTtneXAets2H6xIxePhQT9vTCBKNJwh_boLvDzELXzvLmrqh7HhGKdZFq-sf1aSMuVRO0zBZvCNM_5sRTlNLGhTDhNRAzdz7X1Y4tEYbjQQ/s640/Mead07.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
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<strong>My Blackberry Fig Mead... after almost 7 months of aging, it is still not ready!</strong></div>
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<b>Update: 22 March 2013</b></div>
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I finally had some time to rack (transfer) the mead into another carboy (glass jug). As you can see in the photo above, the red color has remained, though it has softened a bit. I stole a small glass to sample it. The mead was a very beautiful light pink in color, not the deeper red of the whole five gallon (19 L) batch. There was a very harsh, acidic first taste to it, but after that passes there was a very good flavor that lingered around for quite a while. I couldn't quite identify what the flavor was, probably because I had such a small sample, but I really like it. I am hoping that with some additional aging, the harsh flavor will mellow.</div>
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Today, I racked the mead to a new carboy leaving the lees (sediment) on the bottom of the original carboy. The new volume was lower than desired, so I added some additional honey water. I mixed 6 ounces honey with 18 ounces filtered water. This got it closer to the top of the carboy. I could have added more, but to be honest, I wasn't exactly sure how much additional volume I needed, and I didn't have a whole lot of time to mix and add even more.</div>
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Finally, I added a pack of yeast (<i>Saccharomyces cervisiae (ex-bayanus)</i> for sparkling wines from Lalvin). My original plan was to make this mead entirely a wild fermentation experiment. However, after waiting seven months, I think I lost my nerve! The flavor is developing well, and I really just didn't want to mess things up, especially after such a long wait. My future plan will be to run some side by side experiments (which I will document here) comparing completely wild fermentation, partially wild fermentation (like this one), and as non-wild as I can make it. Then I will be able to do some side-by-side taste tests and see which one turns out best. However, with just one batch, I really wanted success more than scientific results. The raw material was more difficult to come by since I was not raising the blackberries or honey myself. Once I get these things producing on my land, then I will be doing quite a lot of experimentation.</div>
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This batch of mead likely needs another 3-6 months before it is truly drinkable. I will let this fermentation cycle run its course, and then I will bottle it. Once in the bottles, I will be able to sample some every few months and taste how it matures. I expect it will only get better with time.</div>
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<strong>Name: Blackberry Fig Mead</strong></div>
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<strong>Brew Date: 28 August 2012</strong></div>
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Okay, to be technically correct, a mead is a honey wine. When fruit is added to mead, it is then called a melomel. So this concoction should be called a Blackberry Fig Melomel, but few people know what a mead is, let alone a melomel. With all that said, here is what I did...</div>
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<strong>Ingredients:</strong></div>
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1 Gallon Azorean Raw Honey</div>
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1 Gallon Figs, mostly skinned, from my garden</div>
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1 Pint Azorean Blackberries, from my garden wall</div>
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4 Gallons Water</div>
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<strong>Method:</strong></div>
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In a 6.5 gallon bucket, slowly added 1 gallon honey to 4 gallons water, stirring constantly</div>
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Added figs and stirred</div>
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Stirred 3-4 times a day - a cap of fruit and seeds formed each time the water settled and needed to be broken up a few times each day</div>
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Let ferment for a total of 3 days</div>
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Racked (transferred the liquid) to a 5 gallon carboy, leaving behind the fruit and lees</div>
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Immediately added fresh blackberries, added air lock</div>
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Let ferment for 7 days</div>
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Racked to another 5 gallon carboy</div>
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Topped off with fresh honey water (with same 1:4 ratio as initial)</div>
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Let slowly ferment and mature... this is currently where things are at</div>
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<strong>Notes:</strong></div>
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This is a completely wild fermentation. I didn't boil or sterilize any of the honey or fruit. No packaged or extra yeast was added. The yeast that is fermenting this mead is only from the raw honey, the figs, and the blackberries.</div>
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I still maintained a very clean environment, as much as I would if I were brewing a beer with selected yeast strains.</div>
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I left a few skins on the figs as this is where I figured the highest concentration of natural yeasts would reside. However, I had read that the fig skins can give a bit of an off flavor, so the vast majority of the figs were skinned.</div>
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My goal is to let this ferment/age for a few months, maybe rack once or twice more, then bottle and age for 6-12 months before sampling... if I can wait that long.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9iaq1PYPxXwa0Ja7q07-mLv8y-6cgcJ2CouqTP2w1LROaKb4lGvnGyvevADDSt5qFY6yPfyhj_FG9f4HvVck_FNRYexyhsCi1Dbg9RJoIMyIHYG1ZCQawM0aRaVIhf4_DwM7no7VglQR/s1600/Fig02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9iaq1PYPxXwa0Ja7q07-mLv8y-6cgcJ2CouqTP2w1LROaKb4lGvnGyvevADDSt5qFY6yPfyhj_FG9f4HvVck_FNRYexyhsCi1Dbg9RJoIMyIHYG1ZCQawM0aRaVIhf4_DwM7no7VglQR/s400/Fig02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<strong>Figs from my garden.</strong></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-JHMTpg7U9DPO0TJSikCYNRJTwXmhowHpdFxD1pdeygP9MpjObEpm0q_fFrWbbMQ7l0kyIwVMpfBdLGOs2Y-LwSR1HDa3vVw7u0oVpeuwdKR0uAkAR-Ok4AQOMTa-40ogClkzdgNgF7G/s1600/Fig+Mead.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-JHMTpg7U9DPO0TJSikCYNRJTwXmhowHpdFxD1pdeygP9MpjObEpm0q_fFrWbbMQ7l0kyIwVMpfBdLGOs2Y-LwSR1HDa3vVw7u0oVpeuwdKR0uAkAR-Ok4AQOMTa-40ogClkzdgNgF7G/s400/Fig+Mead.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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<strong>Day 2 of the fig and honey fermentation... smelled like Fig Newtons!</strong></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0K-yJ2cHNLdaUwTlO8aNubTBqKf3r-Bl-eUsrPzwi5PyBReOA5pL3b1nYBm6a7-shoydnepnDEzno4NOFg6ynrNYPzC4SdlrLRgduv90hKfX78jCjEk_thpU-qRoQ2m9J5YF-EthPG21/s1600/Mead02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0K-yJ2cHNLdaUwTlO8aNubTBqKf3r-Bl-eUsrPzwi5PyBReOA5pL3b1nYBm6a7-shoydnepnDEzno4NOFg6ynrNYPzC4SdlrLRgduv90hKfX78jCjEk_thpU-qRoQ2m9J5YF-EthPG21/s400/Mead02.jpg" width="217" /></a></div>
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<strong>The melomel after the first racking.</strong></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcRTO_vANx7w08mc6Ceo_5losH26pvvcSn2u4qsUWeu9iq8A_xJ2Hh-fFNuy5Od18ppW5ZbAkomLcXa12YOpd1ZPUtMSzJ4QJ4CD9_kB37Dj4hAmHoX9kPQh7e5b-E201R9PbzTVoi6GfL/s1600/Azorean+Blackberries.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcRTO_vANx7w08mc6Ceo_5losH26pvvcSn2u4qsUWeu9iq8A_xJ2Hh-fFNuy5Od18ppW5ZbAkomLcXa12YOpd1ZPUtMSzJ4QJ4CD9_kB37Dj4hAmHoX9kPQh7e5b-E201R9PbzTVoi6GfL/s320/Azorean+Blackberries.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<strong>The pint of blackberries from my garden wall.</strong></div>
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<em>I only fell off the wall once during harvesting!</em></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIApZVQhLNB3iY4C3Ge-mgSJCsjmhsHhwAIKNXy47NkMZWQhPIbFF8CqLju8GTMsUHPNt0xVZF98pmi6l8QAlm7L3eCnuCgVbI_mb-mbrtZX2ZixxR6PMFTjjz5sGPmcLNEZXdDZTo0mlc/s1600/Mead03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIApZVQhLNB3iY4C3Ge-mgSJCsjmhsHhwAIKNXy47NkMZWQhPIbFF8CqLju8GTMsUHPNt0xVZF98pmi6l8QAlm7L3eCnuCgVbI_mb-mbrtZX2ZixxR6PMFTjjz5sGPmcLNEZXdDZTo0mlc/s400/Mead03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<strong>Just after I added the blackberries.</strong></div>
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<em>Next to this is a small reserve of honey water that wouldn't fit. </em></div>
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<em>I am letting this ferment without any fruit as well.</em></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC7iHWMgu9mrqcjjBvxjdEx_0uVDFxaSaUHQPUV3KlJmdjn9buthyphenhyphen23TsgXNbe4J18JTkT97IcMbFb4sv9ZeTOzasG9kVZbGhD6cmeHV4IczkbN2xci2FYG2FI6UUbqMFh7HHrpW3cYsYH/s1600/Mead05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC7iHWMgu9mrqcjjBvxjdEx_0uVDFxaSaUHQPUV3KlJmdjn9buthyphenhyphen23TsgXNbe4J18JTkT97IcMbFb4sv9ZeTOzasG9kVZbGhD6cmeHV4IczkbN2xci2FYG2FI6UUbqMFh7HHrpW3cYsYH/s400/Mead05.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<strong>After about 5 days of fermenting with the blackberries, the liquid took on a beautiful pink hue.</strong></div>
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<img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXMaaS9T35kBCBsUeBuoU-dEyqgci7JMf_fx-aMQl984xavuaTlLwm9cPHtOJE2MyVxc3hyphenhyphenW5J6qelVFbGsgf4W_qOcyAKLIbHEf1KXdqxi6X7_84yrX8VktNx_aHiXO7DzgAWALFbtuP/s400/Mead06.JPG" width="255" /></div>
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<strong>Racked off the blackberries, topped off, and ready for aging.</strong></div>
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<b>Just racked into a clean carboy after 7 months of aging.</b></div>
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<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-88811258262276655152013-03-21T20:32:00.003-01:002013-03-21T20:33:43.667-01:00A Pollard Lot Next to Home.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizfVsTd3ahaDtuxWhB-qYWMbR1NYJcjcxNzbS66WxmZsxfO_DC7uPpZpEdjYZyOMnkZuabqXVZWgzLd9P_fevMTOxPepVyu8v8LU45e6hjJXmkPqqKcDoIABPjZIAVMKPWLo7xEkXTGm27/s1600/Pollard01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizfVsTd3ahaDtuxWhB-qYWMbR1NYJcjcxNzbS66WxmZsxfO_DC7uPpZpEdjYZyOMnkZuabqXVZWgzLd9P_fevMTOxPepVyu8v8LU45e6hjJXmkPqqKcDoIABPjZIAVMKPWLo7xEkXTGm27/s400/Pollard01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>A Pollard lot. </b></div>
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<i>These trees reach 20-30 feet (6-9 meters) above the stool (tree trunk).</i></div>
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I drove by this lot today and had to take some photos. I have not seen such a perfect example of Pollarding before; all the components were there to see all at once. I got a few odd glances from the Azorean locals as they drove past. I am sure they were wondering what this American was doing taking photos, but I didn't mind at all.</div>
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Pollarding is a type of coppicing. I have written about <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/permaculture-projects-coppicing.html">coppicing in one of my previous articles</a></i></b>, and I would recommend reading that article for a more in depth explanation. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzS9n94bEASBg-fvE0xfIwoTA3TGwjh-9YKtfuxZh8T85DLGOfHuuCz5gPMwSIB4MY0hnPN4en58CXbzotljM6oJZxX9RtYTc3s9JLVEFDXyXNquAZ-5jl1qv82VfYmgIE2xJPGd7n0Spj/s1600/Pollard03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzS9n94bEASBg-fvE0xfIwoTA3TGwjh-9YKtfuxZh8T85DLGOfHuuCz5gPMwSIB4MY0hnPN4en58CXbzotljM6oJZxX9RtYTc3s9JLVEFDXyXNquAZ-5jl1qv82VfYmgIE2xJPGd7n0Spj/s400/Pollard03.jpg" width="343" /></a></div>
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<b>A recently harvested Pollard.</b></div>
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In brief, Pollarding is a pruning technique where one cuts off most of the branches from a tree at, or above, head level. The branches can be used for any number of purposes: posts, poles, fencing, tools, crafts, building, firewood, charcoal, etc. Within a number of years, the branches will grow back out of the pollard, and the process can be repeated. Only certain species of tree can be Pollarded (or Coppiced, for that matter), and each species varies in how often it can be harvested. </div>
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I do not know the purpose of this Pollard lot. It could be for firewood, but these branches are long and beautifully straight. I also do not know the species of tree. I asked a few people walking by, but my Portuguese is not so good. The best I could get was, "Oh, yeah, we all just call it a shade tree." </div>
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I will try to drive by this lot from time to time and hopefully catch someone on the property. I will try to find out the answers to my questions, and if I get them, I will share them on this page. Nevertheless, these were some great photos I had to share.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgXTHIlFT0lC696q-rMqqgbfBDwUssR8w7jokAsUMaWBg9ZpFYzbH7mjqIM1K9lo8cBwrngWmWZBh6uobQXgotztGrkmoVGmrek5KFWllquU1uCCo5u0qnYcS_lkbwwvTTvFWpqtPntRR/s1600/Pollard02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgXTHIlFT0lC696q-rMqqgbfBDwUssR8w7jokAsUMaWBg9ZpFYzbH7mjqIM1K9lo8cBwrngWmWZBh6uobQXgotztGrkmoVGmrek5KFWllquU1uCCo5u0qnYcS_lkbwwvTTvFWpqtPntRR/s400/Pollard02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>These poles, after being trimmed, are about 20 feet (6 meters) long </b></div>
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<b>and 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) in diameter.</b></div>
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<i>Great wood with a lot of potential!</i></div>
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-7052566305728837612013-03-19T21:57:00.001-01:002013-03-19T21:58:03.279-01:00Asian Pear Varieties... just a sampling<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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I recently wrote an <a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/permaculture-plants-asian-pears.html"><b><i>article about Asian Pears</i></b></a>. Being that I am just barely familiar with this tree, other than an occasional taste of unknown varieties, I thought I would find some information about a few of the varieties that are out there. Included in this list of 25 are the most common, popular, flavorful varieties as well as a few traditional ones and brand new ones. I tried to list them in roughly the order that they ripen. </div>
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As always, this website is about me gathering information so that I can go back and reference it as I need. There are some areas of missing information that I just couldn't find in a reasonable amount of time. If you have a link to a site that provides any of the missing information in my listings, please feel free to post a comment. So without further ado...</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.asiannursery.com/image/pear/Ichiban%20Nashi.jpg">http://www.asiannursery.com/image/pear/Ichiban%20Nashi.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">1. Ichiban Nashi ("First Pear")</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Early. Ripening ahead of 'Shinseiki', 'Shinsui', and 'Kosui.'</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Light gold to brown. Russet.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet</li>
<li>Storage: keeps poorly</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMxEsKMrlCv2RaErId05d9TK2dFvwym2oftXSP23MAWGf3UThk1ZBEpZ_t1fkJz-38S_GFZILePDl0VXXewfBj3LN_VZOItlmNytrAahYqlF1wBF4OtH8-5pksPnX_p28bd5xY33sTvgCM/s1600/Asian+Pear+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMxEsKMrlCv2RaErId05d9TK2dFvwym2oftXSP23MAWGf3UThk1ZBEpZ_t1fkJz-38S_GFZILePDl0VXXewfBj3LN_VZOItlmNytrAahYqlF1wBF4OtH8-5pksPnX_p28bd5xY33sTvgCM/s320/Asian+Pear+16.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/image/0007/124279/Hosui.jpg">http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/image/0007/124279/Hosui.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">2. Shinsui ("New Juice")</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Early (after 'Ichiban Nashi' and before 'Shinseiki')</li>
<li>Size: Medium</li>
<li>Shape: Round with a little flattening</li>
<li>Color: Orange-yellow-brown, russet. Mild grit. Off-white flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Outstanding flavor, very sweet, crisp, very juicy.</li>
<li>Storage: Delicate. Bruises easily. Stores for up to a month.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Moderately susceptible to fire blight.</li>
<li>Notes: Precocious and very productive</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiet7-Ww7Xp_Lvfx36Eub2IAxffaLE2mw9HI_mOyLJV1xA_2t5Q6kpkVxCAXCgP-wAVzz_TwDJdwV7lIAK_f5b5FvtLFLvCpMtFTgfDEuOG_J-bz-IDa8bH30bR3N15U-eyU8VXOej_1aYE/s1600/Asian+Pear+20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiet7-Ww7Xp_Lvfx36Eub2IAxffaLE2mw9HI_mOyLJV1xA_2t5Q6kpkVxCAXCgP-wAVzz_TwDJdwV7lIAK_f5b5FvtLFLvCpMtFTgfDEuOG_J-bz-IDa8bH30bR3N15U-eyU8VXOej_1aYE/s320/Asian+Pear+20.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/Images/sized%20photos/Horizontal/448x336horizontal/packedkosui.jpg">http://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/Images/sized%20photos/Horizontal/448x336horizontal/packedkosui.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">3. Kosui ("Juice of Good Fortune")</span></b></div>
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Cross of Kikusui ("floating chrysanthemum") x Wase-Kozo. Japanese selection introduced in 1959.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Early</li>
<li>Size: Medium to Small</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Light green to yellow-golden-bronze. Russet. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Very sweet, slightly tart, juicy, tender, crisp. </li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. Up to 5 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Resistant to Alternaria black-spot and moderately resistant to pear scab. Leaves sensitive to 2-spot spider mites. Very susceptible to fire blight.</li>
<li>Notes: A strong-growing tree with leaves sensitive many sprays.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://lghttp.17653.nexcesscdn.net/808B16/cdn_images/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/t/ft160-a.jpg">http://lghttp.17653.nexcesscdn.net/808B16/cdn_images/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/t/ft160-a.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">4. Shinseiki ("New Century")</span></b><br />
Cross of Nijisseki ("20th Century") x Chojuro ("Plentiful"). Japanese selection introduced in 1945.<br />
<ul>
<li>Season: Early</li>
<li>Size: Medium</li>
<li>Shape: Globular, lop-sided</li>
<li>Color: Green to yellow-green to bright yellow, smooth. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet, slightly tart, firm to rock hard, crunchy, course, juicy</li>
<li>Storage: Excellent, 3-5 months</li>
<li>Fertility: Self-Fertile, but more productive with another pollenizer</li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Fire blight susceptible, but some have moderate resistance</li>
<li>Notes: Fruit hangs on the tree well.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.silveradoonline.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/node-gallery-display/Hosui2010.jpg">http://www.silveradoonline.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/node-gallery-display/Hosui2010.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">5. Hosui ("Abundant Juice")</span></b></div>
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Cross of (Kikusui x Yakumo) x Yakumo. Japanese selection introduced in 1972. Touted as the best flavored Asian Pear.</div>
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<ul>
<li>Season: Early-Mid</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: Round-globular</li>
<li>Color: Yellow-gold-brown, heavily russeted</li>
<li>Taste: Tender, sweet, brandy aroma, low-acid, juicy. Overripe specimens develop a rummy taste. </li>
<li>Storage: Good. 4-8 weeks.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Good resistance to pear scab disease. Susceptible to fire blight and bacterial canker.</li>
<li>Notes: The tree is vigorous, willowy and spreading. Loose growth habit.</li>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.myseasons.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/5/3507.jpg">http://www.myseasons.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/5/3507.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">6. Chojuro ("Plentiful")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Chance seedling of <i>Pyrus pyrifolia</i>. Japanese selection introduced in 1895.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Early-Mid</li>
<li>Size: Medium-Large</li>
<li>Shape: Round-flattish</li>
<li>Color: Brown-orange. Russet. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Slightly aromatic, butterscotch flavor. Flavor improves with storage. Not as juicy as newer varieties. Moderately gritty in some seasons.</li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. Stores for up to 5 months, but bruises easily.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Moderately susceptible to<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
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fire blight; apparently resistant to pear scab and Alternaria black spot.</div>
</div>
</li>
<li>Notes: Tree is precocious and productive. It must be picked when first yellow-brown in color or fruit is subject to severe bruising and skin discoloration.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.asiannursery.com/image/pear/Seigyoku.jpg">http://www.asiannursery.com/image/pear/Seigyoku.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">7. Seigyoku ("Sapphire")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Hybrid of Nijisseki ("20th Century") x Chojuro ("Plentiful")</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Early-Mid</li>
<li>Size: </li>
<li>Shape: Round</li>
<li>Color: Light green to yellow, smooth.</li>
<li>Taste: Average quality</li>
<li>Storage: </li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/Images/sized%20photos/Horizontal/448x336horizontal/packed%2020th%20004.jpg">http://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/Images/sized%20photos/Horizontal/448x336horizontal/packed%2020th%20004.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">8. Nijisseki ("20th Century"), aka Nijusseiki</span></b><br />
Japanese selection introduced in 1898. Considered the standard for flavor.<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid</li>
<li>Size: Small</li>
<li>Shape: Uniform, round-globular, lop-sided</li>
<li>Color: Pale yellow-green. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet, slightly tart, firm, very juicy, crisp, very little grittiness. Mildly aromatic.</li>
<li>Storage: Excellent, 3-6 months, but bruises easily</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Quite susceptible to pear scab and fire blight.</li>
<li>Notes: Semi-spur habit, vigorous. It should not be grown on P. communis rootstock because it is severely dwarfed. The fruit ripens in mid-August. It grows well on P. betulaefolia, P. calleryana, and P. serotina. Old trees need spur removal and rejuvenating pruning to maintain fruit size. The tree is naturally well shaped and easy to handle.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.asiannursery.com/image/Pear/Yoinashi.jpg">http://www.asiannursery.com/image/Pear/Yoinashi.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">9. Yoinashi</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid. Ripens with Nijiesiki ("20th Century")</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: Brown</li>
<li>Color: </li>
<li>Taste: Considered excellent</li>
<li>Storage: </li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.fowlernurseries.com/graphics/TseLi.jpg">http://www.fowlernurseries.com/graphics/TseLi.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">10. Tse Li (aka Tsu Li)</span></b></div>
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Complex hybrid of <i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i> x (<i>P. x bretschneideri</i>).</div>
</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: Football-shaped or Pear-shaped</li>
<li>Color: Green</li>
<li>Taste: Not edible right off the tree. Taste is better with more storage time. Very sweet, aromatic, almost no acid</li>
<li>Storage: Amazing. 6-10 months. </li>
<li>Fertility: Ya Li is appropriate pollenizer. </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Some fire blight tolerance. Seems to be damaged less by insects than Japanese varieties.</li>
<li>Notes: Blooms very early, so is especially susceptible to late spring frosts. 'Tsu Li' in California and 'Tsu Li' in China are not the same cultivar.</li>
</ul>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">11. Yoinashi ("Good Pear")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
New variety.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid</li>
<li>Size: Large to medium</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Golden-brown-buff. Off-white flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Good flavor. Tender, crisp, juicy. </li>
<li>Storage: Good. Up to 3 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Trees appear to resist bacterial canker but are very susceptible to fire blight.</li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://www.willisorchards.com/siteImages/products/0000/0353/pear.jpg?1235024121">https://www.willisorchards.com/siteImages/products/0000/0353/pear.jpg?1235024121</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">12. Shinko ("New Success")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Seedling of Nijisseki ("20th Century"). Japanese selection introduced in 1941.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid-Late</li>
<li>Size: Medium to Large</li>
<li>Shape: Round to slightly flat</li>
<li>Color: Gold-bronze. Russet.</li>
<li>Taste: Distinctive rich, sweet, nutty flavor, juicy, crisp, firm.</li>
<li>Storage: Good. Up to 2 months, but may make it to 4 months</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Nearly to completely resistant to fire blight</li>
<li>Notes: Fine winter keeper. Very productive.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://www.onegreenworld.com/images/products/200x200/0615.jpg">https://www.onegreenworld.com/images/products/200x200/0615.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">13. Daisui Li</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
New University of California hybrid</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid-Late</li>
<li>Size: Very large</li>
<li>Shape: Round and slightly flattened</li>
<li>Color: Greenish to yellow. Very white flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet with a bit of tartness, crisp, slightly coarse. </li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. 3-6 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: Pollinated by 'Shin Li'</li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: Trees are extremely vigorous</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://summertomato.com/farmers-market-update-fleet-week/">http://summertomato.com/farmers-market-update-fleet-week/</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">14. Shin Li</span></b></div>
</div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
New University of California hybrid. Hybrid between Japanese variety Kikusui and Tse Li. Introduced in 1988.</div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid to Late</li>
<li>Size: Very large</li>
<li>Shape: Round and slightly flattened</li>
<li>Color: Yellowish to light green. Russet</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet and spicy, cinnamon aroma.</li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. 3-4 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: Pollinated by 'Dasui Li'</li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Conflicting reports about susceptibility/resistance to fire blight.</li>
<li>Notes: Trees are extremely vigorous</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.gurneys.com/images/250/68045.jpg">http://www.gurneys.com/images/250/68045.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>15. Olympic (aka Korean Giant, </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>Large Korean, Dan Beh)</b></span></div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid-Late?</li>
<li>Size: Very large</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Orange-bronze. Russet. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet with earthy flavor, crisp, juicy. </li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. Up to 5 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Excellent tolerance to fire blight. </li>
<li>Notes: One of the more cold-hardy <i>Pyrus pyrifolia.</i></li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.cookhereandnow.com/cookhereandnow/images/2007/09/30/kikusui_asian_pear.jpg">http://www.cookhereandnow.com/cookhereandnow/images/2007/09/30/kikusui_asian_pear.jpg</a></span></i></div>
</div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">16. Kikusui ("Floating Chrysanthemum")</span></b></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
The floating chrysanthemum is the crest of the Japanese royal family.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Mid to Late</li>
<li>Size: Medium</li>
<li>Shape: Roundish-flat</li>
<li>Color: Yellow-green, dull</li>
<li>Taste: Similar to Nijiesiki ("20th Century"), sweet, slightly tart, firm, very juicy, crisp, gritty/coarse. Mildly aromatic.</li>
<li>Storage: Tender skin</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: Mother of many new varieties. Fruit has preharvest drop problems. Tree has average vigor.</li>
</ul>
<div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.fowlernurseries.com/graphics/YaLi.jpg">http://www.fowlernurseries.com/graphics/YaLi.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">17. Ya Li ("Duck Pear")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
A variety of <i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i>. An old Chinese variety of very good quality, it is the most important pear cultivar in China.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Late. Ripening a month after Nijiesiki ("20th Century")</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: Pear-shaped with long stem</li>
<li>Color: Green to yellow-green, smooth, slightly waxy. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet-tart, mild, crisp. </li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. Tender. Up to 5 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: Requires cross-pollination by other early flowering cultivars such as 'Tsu Li' and 'Seuri'.</li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Somewhat tolerant of fire blight (probably because of early bloom time). </li>
<li>Notes: Vigorous grower. Hardy. Trees are very productive and vigorous on all pear rootstocks. Blooms very early, so frost susceptible; 4 or 5 days earlier than Japanese varieties. This cultivar is slower to come into production than most Japanese cultivars.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/image/0018/124290/niitaka.jpg">http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/image/0018/124290/niitaka.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">18. Nii</span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">taka ("New Quantity")</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Season: Late</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: Round, oblong</li>
<li>Color: Yellow-orange-brown, Russet.</li>
<li>Taste: Bland, average flavor, firm, coarse.</li>
<li>Storage: Good. Up to 2 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: The flowers are pollen-sterile but it sets well when cross-pollinated with most varieties.</li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Fire blight susceptible.</li>
<li>Notes: High production.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.grandpasorchard.com/_ccLib/image/plants/DETA-204.jpg">http://www.grandpasorchard.com/_ccLib/image/plants/DETA-204.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">19. Arirang ("Sweet Pear")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Korean variety.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Late</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Orange-brown</li>
<li>Taste: Very sweet and juicy, crisp, firm</li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. Up to 6 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.fowlernurseries.com/graphics/Atago.jpg">http://www.fowlernurseries.com/graphics/Atago.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">20. Atago</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Late</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Brown-orange. Russet.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet, slightly tart, crisp</li>
<li>Storage: Good. Up to 4 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: Trees are upright, spreading and<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
medium in vigor. </div>
</div>
</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://fruitmaven.com/wp-content/gallery/seuri-pear/dsc_0233-small.jpg">http://fruitmaven.com/wp-content/gallery/seuri-pear/dsc_0233-small.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">21. Seuri (in Chinese, it may be Se Li "Red Pear")</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Late</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: Round</li>
<li>Color: Dark orange to yellow. Russet. Yellow to white flesh. </li>
<li>Taste: Sweet, rich, crisp, hints of apricot. Fruit flavor is excellent, especially in hot climates.</li>
<li>Storage: Good. 1-3 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: Should be pollinated by 'Ya Li', another early bloomer.</li>
<li>Pests/Disease: Conflicting reports about susceptibility/resistance to fire blight</li>
<li>Notes: Delicious but unattractive. Trees used as pollinizers. It is a low-chill, early blooming variety.</li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://edible.wdfiles.com/local--files/file:photo1-20/photo1.jpg">http://edible.wdfiles.com/local--files/file:photo1-20/photo1.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">22. Okusankichi ("Madame Luck")</span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Traditional Japanese variety from mid-19th century.</div>
<ul>
<li>Season: Very Late</li>
<li>Size: </li>
<li>Shape: Oval or turban-shaped.</li>
<li>Color: Brown. Russet.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet-tart, very firm, crisp, slightly coarse. Flavor improves with storage.</li>
<li>Storage: Good.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/sweetNsourweb.jpg">http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/sweetNsourweb.jpg</a></span></i></div>
</div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">23. Sweet 'N' Sour</span></b><br />
<div>
Developed by <a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/">Virginia Gold Orchard</a></div>
<ul>
<li>Season:</li>
<li>Size: </li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Green to yellow. Smooth. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Sweet, very juicy, firm, crisp.</li>
<li>Storage: Good. Up to 4 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/sunburst2010.JPG">http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/sunburst2010.JPG</a></span></i></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">24. Sunburst</span></b><br />
Developed by <a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/">Virginia Gold Orchard</a><br />
<ul>
<li>Season:</li>
<li>Size: Large</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Yellow skin with "splash of russet" around the stem. White flesh.</li>
<li>Taste: Unique with a hint of ginger, very sweet, very juicy, tender, crisp.</li>
<li>Storage: Excellent. Up to 6 months.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/asweet.JPG">http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/asweet.JPG</a></span></i></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">25. Autumn Sweet</span></b><br />
Developed by <a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/">Virginia Gold Orchard</a><br />
<ul>
<li>Season:</li>
<li>Size: Medium to large</li>
<li>Shape: </li>
<li>Color: Golden-orange. Russet. Slightly roughened skin.</li>
<li>Taste: Very sweet and juicy.</li>
<li>Storage: Fair. Up to 1 month.</li>
<li>Fertility: </li>
<li>Pests/Disease: </li>
<li>Notes: </li>
</ul>
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John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com137tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-4843183927463246072013-03-18T20:56:00.002-01:002013-03-19T21:59:53.990-01:00Permaculture Plants: Asian Pears<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkFXR9eIYpiJ-Gu_zfpvxN9fODqSJghrb4znbZM0ejTARFz_71g5EsgBBaGqcJMVbmfy8FxFOZdY5E620Do3AuSkjyNfekBAwW_BzV4nDZHo5y-4YNPqDZDk4i-DOKoG1rIvd64_D3580c/s1600/Asian+Pear+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkFXR9eIYpiJ-Gu_zfpvxN9fODqSJghrb4znbZM0ejTARFz_71g5EsgBBaGqcJMVbmfy8FxFOZdY5E620Do3AuSkjyNfekBAwW_BzV4nDZHo5y-4YNPqDZDk4i-DOKoG1rIvd64_D3580c/s400/Asian+Pear+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>The Asian Pear is quite different than its European relative.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.miyagitheme.jp/cd/main_data/photo_data/photo_zao/pear.jpg">http://www.miyagitheme.jp/cd/main_data/photo_data/photo_zao/pear.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Common Name: Asian Pears</span></b><br />
<b>Scientific Name: </b><i>Pyrus </i>species<br />
<b>Family: </b>Rosaceae (the Rose family)<br />
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<b>Asian Pears can be russeted and light brown or clear and yellow.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://eyewatering.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/asian-pears-1-sa.jpg">http://eyewatering.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/asian-pears-1-sa.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pyrus_pyrifolia.jpg">http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pyrus_pyrifolia.jpg</a></span></i></div>
<br />
<b>Common Species:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Chinese Pear, Nashi Pear, Sand Pear</b> (<i>Pyrus pyrifolia</i>)</li>
<li><b>Siberian Pear, Harbin Pear </b>(<i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i>)</li>
<li><b>Chinese White Pear, Ya Pear</b> (<i>Pyrus x bretschneideris</i>)</li>
</ul>
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<b>Description:</b><br />
Asian Pears are not nearly as common in the West as their closely related cousin, the European Pear, but they are quickly gaining in popularity. They are typically round (apple-shaped), although the Chinese White Pear is more “pear”-shaped. Asian Pears are more similar to an apple in texture and a cross between an apple and European Pear in flavor. They are at their best when picked ripe. All you need is to taste a perfectly ripe Asian Pear, and you will make room for it in your Forest Garden.<br />
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There are three types of Asian pears.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Round or roundish-flat fruit with green to yellow skin</li>
<li>Round or roundish-flat fruit with yellow to brown skin and bronze to gold russet (little dots)</li>
<li>Pear-shaped with green skin or brown skin and bronze russet </li>
</ul>
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<b>History:</b><br />
Native to the eastern Asia, specifically China, Korea, and Japan, Asian Pears are now grown throughout their native land as well as in Australia, New Zealand, and the United States.<br />
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<b>Trivia:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Asian Pears are the oldest known cultivated pear.</li>
<li>Asian Pears contain enzymes that tenderize meat, which is why they are used in marinades.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA1uOzAvIB6Jr3nk2XRZIAJbxBV4Ij_G8YJuD980C2ymv9wlZgzVDRoknRn1ygQf8nO9YXs0ozmZzXKZ39-r8wUle3pwBww56DoeYIiluQWd-RMgtXDtgvXVxhN3PgciC51oqKrucAB7va/s1600/Asian+Pear+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA1uOzAvIB6Jr3nk2XRZIAJbxBV4Ij_G8YJuD980C2ymv9wlZgzVDRoknRn1ygQf8nO9YXs0ozmZzXKZ39-r8wUle3pwBww56DoeYIiluQWd-RMgtXDtgvXVxhN3PgciC51oqKrucAB7va/s400/Asian+Pear+11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Fall Fruit Salad with Asian Pears</b></div>
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<a href="http://whataboutthis.biz/2012/11/26/fall-fruit-salad/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Click here for the recipe:<i> </i></span></a></div>
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<a href="http://whataboutthis.biz/2012/11/26/fall-fruit-salad/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i>http://whataboutthis.biz/2012/11/26/fall-fruit-salad/</i></span></a></div>
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Asian Pear and Tangerine Salad</div>
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<a href="http://thindish.com/blog/asian-pear-tangerine-walnut-salad-healthy-recipe-low-calorie-nutrition/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Click here for the recipe: </span></a></div>
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<a href="http://thindish.com/blog/asian-pear-tangerine-walnut-salad-healthy-recipe-low-calorie-nutrition/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i>http://thindish.com/blog/asian-pear-tangerine-walnut-salad-healthy-recipe-low-calorie-nutrition/</i></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxLmggBCqolsrUF3EYWTDDb94OthStFXhyphenhyphenlsPn5MnCJABqNhIOrfJpfyWNNu7AF4wiFZCIhO5kylNhJkI2HhDipo5RAynDjw516WqNTNvAqPp5qMwdzRovIY0Icb1tIxjzz0yiLkkvgUC/s1600/Asian+Pear+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxLmggBCqolsrUF3EYWTDDb94OthStFXhyphenhyphenlsPn5MnCJABqNhIOrfJpfyWNNu7AF4wiFZCIhO5kylNhJkI2HhDipo5RAynDjw516WqNTNvAqPp5qMwdzRovIY0Icb1tIxjzz0yiLkkvgUC/s400/Asian+Pear+13.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Asian Pear Wine and Liquors by Subarashi Kudamono (means "wonderful fruit" in Japanese)</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i><a href="http://www.winesofsubarashii.com/">Click here for the link to this site: </a></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i><a href="http://www.winesofsubarashii.com/">http://www.winesofsubarashii.com</a></i></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">USING THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Primary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><i>Fresh eating</i> – Asian Pears are more similar to an Apple in texture and a cross between an Apple and European Pear in flavor. Eat when fully ripe or it will be dry and hard. Great in salads.</li>
<li><i>Cooking</i> – Asian Pears have a high water content, so they are not used identical to European Pears. They are great when used for marinating (see trivia below). Drier varieties may be used for cooking, baking, pies, tarts, etc., but they really are best cooked after they have been pureed. The crisp texture is not softened with cooking as with European Pears.</li>
<li><i>Sauces</i> – In Asia, the pears are often ground and mixed into sauces instead of other sweeteners</li>
<li><i>Preserved</i> – Preserves, Jams, Jellies, etc – will often need longer cooking times to reduce the high water content. Asian Pears dehydrate very well, and the dehydrated fruit can be used in many recipes for desserts or just eaten as is.</li>
</ul>
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<b>Secondary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>General insect (especially bees) nectar and pollen plant</li>
<li>Wildlife food</li>
<li>Wildlife shelter</li>
<li>Primary or adjunt flavor component in beer, wine, cider, perry, mead, liquor, etc.</li>
<li>Can likely be <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/permaculture-projects-coppicing.html">Coppiced</a></i></b>, although I can find no good reference for this.</li>
<li>Wood – Poles, posts, stakes, tools, crafts</li>
<li>Wood – Firewood, charcoal</li>
<li>Wood – Smoking/Barbeque: pear wood gives a soft “fruity” smoke to meats, similar to apple wood</li>
</ul>
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<b>Yield: </b>Standard root stock – 3-8 bushels (105-280 liters) or 170-450 lbs (80-200 kg); semi-dwarf root stock – 1-2 bushels (35-70 liters); dwarf root stock – 1 bushel (35 liters) or 56 lbs (25 kg)<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Harvesting:</b> Late Summer to Autumn (August-October), but can vary based on variety and location. Pick when still crunchy (like an apple) and giving off a strong aroma – the strong and sweet fragrance of a ripe Asian Pear is the key to knowing when it is ripe. Softness is used to help determine ripeness in European Pears, but not Asian Pears.<br />
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<b>Storage:</b> Best when used right away, but can be stored for up to a month or more if kept in a cool, dry place and handled carefully to prevent bruising<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJSQF1OqflnFSRtFy14YDAEItbxET283Pp9Pa7MAkENZ05VSp8Ey1O-a-zrr-7hN0n-wOCBoUDJiue9WYUSms9lhboZJK8jyW-8De3DS_ni6juAvEQPniHN1ztu-1LSXDyYNJHOWsL6Lm8/s1600/Asian+Pear+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJSQF1OqflnFSRtFy14YDAEItbxET283Pp9Pa7MAkENZ05VSp8Ey1O-a-zrr-7hN0n-wOCBoUDJiue9WYUSms9lhboZJK8jyW-8De3DS_ni6juAvEQPniHN1ztu-1LSXDyYNJHOWsL6Lm8/s400/Asian+Pear+03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Asian Pears will be covered in the beautiful flowers every Spring.</b></div>
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'Large Korean' variety of Chinese Pear <b>(</b><i>Pyrus pyrifoliaI)</i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6G9bEkI7u4VH0yENQFwWmo_aT1jdfC3Kk-97prC07fWNmF9XYmsZFMwqPZir5KL8sEOmKbY80cWW66QRjbGtjE7nlaiwq2kTqZGlQGYmNcGY9kQAZkvaPjYKuhIGZoWtkRiqwOpdMsE/s1600/Pear+Asian+Lg+Korean+4-12-10.JPG">https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6G9bEkI7u4VH0yENQFwWmo_aT1jdfC3Kk-97prC07fWNmF9XYmsZFMwqPZir5KL8sEOmKbY80cWW66QRjbGtjE7nlaiwq2kTqZGlQGYmNcGY9kQAZkvaPjYKuhIGZoWtkRiqwOpdMsE/s1600/Pear+Asian+Lg+Korean+4-12-10.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Siberian Pear (<i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i>)</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pyrus-ussuriensis-flowering.JPG">http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pyrus-ussuriensis-flowering.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Siberian Pear (<i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i>)</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><a href="http://www.iowaarboretum.org/sites/default/files/images/collection/Flowering%20Trees%202.jpg">http://www.iowaarboretum.org/sites/default/files/images/collection/Flowering%20Trees%202.jpg</a></i></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">USDA Hardiness Zone: </a></b>Zone 4-9, but really depends on the species and variety<br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">AHS Heat Zone:</a></b> Zone 9-3, but really depends on the species and variety<br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/chilling-requirement-for-plants.html">Chill Requirement: </a></b>300-750 chilling hours/units depening on the variety<br />
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<b>Plant Type: </b>Small to Medium-sized Tree depending on the root stock<br />
<b>Leaf Type: </b>Deciduous<br />
<b>Forest Garden Use: </b>Canopy Layer, Sub-Canopy (Understory) Layer<br />
<b>Cultivars/Varieties:</b> Many varieties available. (<b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/asian-pear-varieties-just-sampling.html">see my article about Asian Pear varieties</a></i></b>)<br />
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<b>Pollination: </b>Asian Pears traditionally require cross-pollination, although a few varieties are self-fruitful. This requires two different varieties of Asian Pear. Some European Pears (Pyrus communis) will cross-pollinate Asian Pears. Because there is such a wide variety of pears and cross-pollination variations, it is best to get cross-pollination information from the nursery or catalog company you are purchasing your pears. Pollinated by insects.<br />
<b>Flowering: </b>Spring (May)<br />
<br />
<b>Life Span:</b><br />
<b>Years to Begin Bearing: </b>3-7 years depending on the variety and rootstock<br />
<b>Years of Useful Life: </b>up to 300 years. Dwarfing rootstocks live shorter lives<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZjudaCVrG79ArFZU33izkJ9roZT9F5GSay1-uQuzMMTf6MOpTOiFnefD-G5geWSHo-SZbiQSid-H_AJRKJEZK9ug2pzRve1Exm3eNOpM3FvhXwUkyNC6FDwyfIRXTAKYzX8J7-SuTwvo/s1600/Asian+Pear+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZjudaCVrG79ArFZU33izkJ9roZT9F5GSay1-uQuzMMTf6MOpTOiFnefD-G5geWSHo-SZbiQSid-H_AJRKJEZK9ug2pzRve1Exm3eNOpM3FvhXwUkyNC6FDwyfIRXTAKYzX8J7-SuTwvo/s400/Asian+Pear+07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Siberian Pear (<i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i>) in Autumn</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.primeplants.com.au/database-files/view-file/164/?size=original">http://www.primeplants.com.au/database-files/view-file/164/?size=original</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP84nunGFfqvNh68d9Kfq_OFwj93oa22YmmuInYbkE76unoGvbnlK86b3tFjb9_IkGS3Zh_o58EhgZ-XSmmP1Onn-NtFu94NO70s_BvQCwx638sF8CElJb3afGBe4E4KrF-gAvGAlx9U7K/s1600/Asian+Pear+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP84nunGFfqvNh68d9Kfq_OFwj93oa22YmmuInYbkE76unoGvbnlK86b3tFjb9_IkGS3Zh_o58EhgZ-XSmmP1Onn-NtFu94NO70s_BvQCwx638sF8CElJb3afGBe4E4KrF-gAvGAlx9U7K/s400/Asian+Pear+08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Chinese Pear (<i>Pyrus pyrifolia</i>) in Autumn waiting for harvest</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><a href="http://philadelphiagreen.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/sk_waiting_for_harvesting.jpg">http://philadelphiagreen.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/sk_waiting_for_harvesting.jpg</a></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMuIIDlzxFKcIlb7RsCGWL9tp2eP9QokdVebJME1VMDu6Jq3zBHN9Pc7HDWVzfUEaYHbf2sZBOlYYDLh53PKIN-myB7NcI6DYCkWPf9eui5NGlBhtYo8U7CdCkSVNrEMbgiDsOuW1mgch/s1600/Asian+Pear+09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMuIIDlzxFKcIlb7RsCGWL9tp2eP9QokdVebJME1VMDu6Jq3zBHN9Pc7HDWVzfUEaYHbf2sZBOlYYDLh53PKIN-myB7NcI6DYCkWPf9eui5NGlBhtYo8U7CdCkSVNrEMbgiDsOuW1mgch/s400/Asian+Pear+09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Asian Pear in Autumn after a frost</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://ellishollow.remarc.com/images/frost2008_asianpearx1200.jpg">http://ellishollow.remarc.com/images/frost2008_asianpearx1200.jpg</a></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Size:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Chinese Pear </b>(<i>Pyrus pyrifolia</i>): 25-30 feet (7.5-9 meters) tall and 20-25 feet (6-7.5 meters) wide</li>
<li><b>Siberian Pear </b>(<i>Pyrus ussuriensis</i>): 30-50 feet (9-15 meters) tall and 25-30 feet (7.5-9 meters) wide</li>
<li><b>Chinese White Pear</b> (<i>Pyrus x bretschneideris</i>): 20-25 feet (6-7.5 meters) tall and 10-20 feet (3-6 meters) wide</li>
</ul>
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<b>Roots: </b>Fibrous<br />
<b>Growth Rate: </b>Medium<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziqD8A63OJIe_-pCL1nujP3zYt81uYMLaY8L15MkhgKlagfmq2xBFvLlFkZzCf_9PW-1OPRex9yTn86ZfLwPhRHzYY6LonrdvOiHygYek86Qhy5jL1B9sAMvf-HuhdP-riKpzlHH_9d_x/s1600/Asian+Pear+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziqD8A63OJIe_-pCL1nujP3zYt81uYMLaY8L15MkhgKlagfmq2xBFvLlFkZzCf_9PW-1OPRex9yTn86ZfLwPhRHzYY6LonrdvOiHygYek86Qhy5jL1B9sAMvf-HuhdP-riKpzlHH_9d_x/s400/Asian+Pear+10.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Harvesting a large Asian Pear at Virginia Gold Orchards</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/">http://www.virginiagoldorchard.com/</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A20047-2004Sep14.html">Here is a great article about this orchard in the Washington Post</a></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Light:</b> Prefers full sun<br />
<b>Shade: </b>Tolerates very little shade… shade is best avoided with pears<br />
<b>Moisture: </b>Medium soil moisture preferred<br />
<b>pH: </b>most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.0-7.5), but many can tolerate a bit wider pH ranges<br />
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<b>Special Considerations for Growing:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Pears to not tolerate juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Make sure you have other varieties of trees and shrubs as a buffer between your walnuts and pears.</li>
<li>Pears are susceptible to Fire Blight, Pear Scab, and Canker, so try to choose varieties that are resistant to these diseases.</li>
<li>Make sure to consider flowering times when planning which varieties you choose. You need to make sure that you have compatible varieties (i.e. ones that will pollinate each other) flowering at the same time.</li>
</ul>
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<b>Propagation:</b><br />
Named varieties are usually grafted because pear cultivars do not grow “true to type”, meaning that seeds will grow into trees that produce fruit that is likely to be nothing like the parent stock. If growing from seed, they will need 8-16 weeks cold stratification for germination. Less improved species and non-cultivars are often grown from seed.<br />
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<b>Maintenance:</b><br />
Typically, Asian Pears are pruned once a year to once every 2-3 years.<br />
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<b>Concerns:</b><br />
None<br />
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-24829253168577948702013-03-15T21:22:00.003-01:002013-03-15T21:22:47.599-01:00From Floods to Slugs... Garden challenges on a North Atlantic island<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZx6QBZCn5PZYIhfYgTOn7SvPFJYQGQ7flaos-K3JyBeyMIzLmZeveKdM10u3qPvwup7IcsARuhfReqhI7xu5Wkh4gUftWZSXqJOtfWLqOOpiJmMVfifbxR9_5JcJbubTI7NnAq3xMTp3/s1600/Azores+Flooding01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZx6QBZCn5PZYIhfYgTOn7SvPFJYQGQ7flaos-K3JyBeyMIzLmZeveKdM10u3qPvwup7IcsARuhfReqhI7xu5Wkh4gUftWZSXqJOtfWLqOOpiJmMVfifbxR9_5JcJbubTI7NnAq3xMTp3/s320/Azores+Flooding01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Bill Mollison, the founder of Permaculture, has said to wait a year getting to know your land before you do anything on it. There is a lot of wisdom in this idea. However, I have yet to follow it. It is not that I disagree, but with my current life, I have moved every 2-4 years for the past 17 years! Oh, I am ready to settle down in one place in put down some roots!<br />
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So, while I agree with this idea, I have chosen to ignore it for now. I want to get a garden in as soon as possible in each new place I live. Especially when I am only there for two years. There are challenges in doing this though. The biggest challenge is not knowing the weather cycles. In many places, I could look up very accurate weather histories, so I could plan my gardening year. Here in the Azores, and at my previous home in Turkey, well... not so much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VkOBxUEy126RI6De1HeFCoHsdiT_3AKbDkbpC8cBmyx1wP9AE2B6geDmv6eTqoQxcFj_v4nt9-l473HGHCaEiBjZjNmFiqV415HH6H_08pzv8bx-AuBx7NvFoGwzaB1hG36RGboYDiv9/s1600/Azores+Flooding03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VkOBxUEy126RI6De1HeFCoHsdiT_3AKbDkbpC8cBmyx1wP9AE2B6geDmv6eTqoQxcFj_v4nt9-l473HGHCaEiBjZjNmFiqV415HH6H_08pzv8bx-AuBx7NvFoGwzaB1hG36RGboYDiv9/s320/Azores+Flooding03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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My current case in point is the non-stop rain and wind over the last week and a half. We had a beautiful day here last Saturday. I spent a large chunk of the day in the garden getting some of my seedlings in the ground. The following day, the wind and rain started. It hasn't really stopped since. We have been extremely fortunate not to be effected by the flooding, but just two villages away, only a few minutes drive, they were not so lucky. You can see in these photos the destruction that took place.<br />
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For me to complain about my garden when this is going on so close would be insensitive and frankly ridiculous. It doesn't mean I am not frustrated about the wind that has decimated about half the seedlings I planted. It doesn't mean I am not frustrated about the slugs that are active twenty-four hours a day for the last seven days because the sun has not come out and the ground stays perfectly wet for them and has given them the opportunity to eat holes in many of the remaining seedlings that were planted. I am not exagerating when I say I pulled off over fifty slugs from my two small garden beds in ten minutes after I got home from work. I can be frustrated about these things and still not complain... not to be some pious martyr, but because it is possible to be frustrated yet keep things in perspective.<br />
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But the entire time I was doing this, I kept thinking to myself two things. First, "this is the reason Bill Mollison says to wait for a year to do anything." I have spoken with the locals about when Spring really arrives, and I get a different answer from each person with whom I speak. Nothing beats firsthand experience. This is the joy of learning while gardening. Yes it can be frustrating and downright disheartening at times. However, my gardening is an adjuct to my daily meals. My life, and my family's life doesn't depend on it now. Let me practice and make as many mistakes as I can right now, so that I can learn. So that if I ever do need to depend on my garden for food, I will have that much more experience.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwpBIhY1eqBawyTT6Ai16mwdFv2c-QJqaICnx0md6s0msnmsIl99KtHvo2U-F7yaFgunEdwczRnY_OBRQAceg1b_Izr63vSolxqEJxIOTmc_wC22HeZpgXbA3dRfxb0o9iO3ZzJAs3DaBn/s1600/Azores+Flooding02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwpBIhY1eqBawyTT6Ai16mwdFv2c-QJqaICnx0md6s0msnmsIl99KtHvo2U-F7yaFgunEdwczRnY_OBRQAceg1b_Izr63vSolxqEJxIOTmc_wC22HeZpgXbA3dRfxb0o9iO3ZzJAs3DaBn/s320/Azores+Flooding02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The second thing I kept thinking was, "why am I the fortunate one who gets to pick slugs off his seedlings, when just one town away, people are picking through the mud to find any of their belongings?" Fortunately, there has been a well-organized relief effort which we have been able to contribute to in a small way. Natural disasters are awful, but when we are not directly effected, they should serve as great tools to remind us of our own blessings.<br />
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It is always good to get some perspective.<br />
John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-55429248233465580162013-03-14T21:48:00.002-01:002013-03-14T21:48:21.358-01:00Questions from Readers: Help with my Forest Garden plan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhurfFgxLaRkaBE88LhlGZv1GqvoFJ_O-0rMrO9HUF94XyB3EE0Fh-IAODsa28DD3OdzggRRqF-M5jVBffNyhSmPvLM0kNIFnQJ0ciy89E2zG22WmRX3Mbdz3fwyIH9qPPcJ5oRWeG6xGcT/s1600/Pawpaw01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhurfFgxLaRkaBE88LhlGZv1GqvoFJ_O-0rMrO9HUF94XyB3EE0Fh-IAODsa28DD3OdzggRRqF-M5jVBffNyhSmPvLM0kNIFnQJ0ciy89E2zG22WmRX3Mbdz3fwyIH9qPPcJ5oRWeG6xGcT/s400/Pawpaw01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Pawpaw (<em>Asimina triloba</em>) is a native to southeastern North America.</b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_23843654"><span style="color: #114c1b;">http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Asimina_triloba3.jpg</span></a></span></i></span></b></div>
<em></em><br />
<em>We have an existing "forest" area on our property that I was planning on turning into an Edible Forest Garden centered around guilds of Paw Paw trees. I am located in northern Alabama, in zone 7, and the area is full of pine, oak, privet, and honeysuckle. The soil is a rich clay full of organic matter (earthworms abound). But I just got the soil results back and the ph is a strongly acidic 5.3.</em><br />
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<em>I am planning on doing most of my planting in the flat valley area, but I'm thinking that the rain water that runs off of the slopes on both sides of the valley will be acidic due to the pine needles, which has probably been the chief contributing factor to making the soil as acidic as it is now. So, while I could apply lime to the valley area to try to raise the pH there (making it more suitable for the Paw Paw trees), it sounds like keeping it more alkaline will be an "uphill battle." I'm also concerned of what it could do to the existing plant life (would I start killing my pine & oak trees, for instance?).</em><br />
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<em>I pulled out my Edible Forest Gardens book by Jacke & Toensmeier, and it does look like I have a lot of acid-loving fruit-bearing alternatives I could plant. Prunus cerasifera (Myrobalan Plum), Prunus pumila (Eastern Dwarf Cherry), several species from the Ribes genus (currants, gooseberries, and jostaberries), several species from the Rubus genus (blackberries, cloudberries, black raspberries, etc.) and a wide variety of blueberries could be alternative fruit-bearing plants to the Paw Paws. There also does not seem to be a shortage of acid-loving greens (although I really want to plant Stinging Nettle and Good King Henry and they both like the pH to be at least 5.5. I guess I could apply lime to just a small area...</em><br />
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<em>I guess my basic question is, would you work around the current pH of 5.3 and plant things that would work in the existing forest, or would you try to stick with the original plan of planting Paw Paw trees and amend the soil accordingly? </em><br />
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<em>Your feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.</em><br />
<br />
<em>Jennifer</em><br />
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<br />
Great question! There is a lot to this, so I am going to break it down a bit.<br />
<em></em><br />
<em>We have an existing "forest" area on our property that I was planning on turning into an Edible Forest Garden centered around guilds of Paw Paw trees. I am located in northern Alabama, in zone 7, and the area is full of pine, oak, privet, and honeysuckle. The soil is a rich clay full of organic matter (earthworms abound).</em> <br />
Fantastic! The more Forest Gardens we have, the better! I love the idea of Pawpaw (or Paw Paw or Paw-Paw) guilds, but don't limit yourself. There are so many great fruit and nut trees that will grow in your area. Just something to keep in mind. It sounds like you have a variety of trees and shrubs in the area that are tolerant of a wide range of soil pH. It also sounds like you have a very good soil with which to work. This is also very good news for you.<br />
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<em>But I just got the soil results back and the ph is a strongly acidic 5.3.</em><br />
I am very curious how this was tested. You didn't explain how many tests were done or how they were done, and this really matters. We often only test one spot, because this is cheaper. However, what if that one spot was a highly acidic location and the rest was not? What if a dog just urinated there? It is very tough to make a pH determination for a whole area with just a single test. Ideally, we would test multiple spots throughout our planned Forest Garden. It also matters how we do the testing. We are often told to get a small soil sample from the top few inches of soil or dig a shallow hole, fill it with water, and test the mud. Well, all we are doing is testing that one layer of soil.<br />
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<strong>Basic Soil Horizon Layers</strong></div>
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/5/51/SOIL_PROFILE.png"><em><span style="font-size: xx-small;">http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/5/51/SOIL_PROFILE.png</span></em></a></div>
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There are multiple soil layers in every area. Most locations have standard layers of soil abbreviated as O-A-B-C-R (O=organic layer, A=surface soil, B=subsoil, C=parent rock, R=bedrock). These layers are also called Soil Horizons. Some locations have fewer layers, but most locations have more. These Soil Horizon layers can divided even further:<br />
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<a href="http://hwwff.cce.cornell.edu/content/unit2/images/SoilHorizons.jpg"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><em>http://hwwff.cce.cornell.edu/content/unit2/images/SoilHorizons.jpg</em></span></a></div>
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So, when we are testing soil pH, we need to consider which layer are we testing. Also, very few plants will grow in just the O-layer (which we usually test). Trees and shrubs will put down roots through many of the layers, and some trees will even burrow into the bedrock.<br />
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Finally, the pH of each layer is different. Sometimes, they are not drastically different, but oftentimes they are. I tried really hard to find some good references for this, but I was unable to do so quickly as I was writing this response. However, there has been some good research that shows that creating the "ideal soil pH" may not be all that important for perennial plants... IF the soil is a healthy, undisturbed soil. From the description given in this question, it sounds as if the soil is very healthy, and not hard-packed, recently tilled farm fields. Plants that desire specific soil pH, if planted in healthy soil, will seek the layer that meets its demands. So, for instance, if a plant prefers an acidic soil, then it will put out more roots in an acidic Soil Horizon layer.<br />
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<em>I am planning on doing most of my planting in the flat valley area, but I'm thinking that the rain water that runs off of the slopes on both sides of the valley will be acidic due to the pine needles, which has probably been the chief contributing factor to making the soil as acidic as it is now. So, while I could apply lime to the valley area to try to raise the pH there (making it more suitable for the Paw Paw trees), it sounds like keeping it more alkaline will be an "uphill battle." I'm also concerned of what it could do to the existing plant life (would I start killing my pine & oak trees, for instance?).</em><br />
I think you are looking at this with two sets of glasses on, and you are trying to decide which one gives you a clearer picture. The modern agriculture way of handling this issue is to decide what you want to do before you know your land. Then you evaluate the land and make it do what you desire. This requires a lot of initial work and a perpetual fight to prevent the land going back to what it wants to be. The fact you are asking these questions, means you are trying to avoid this path. Good for you!<br />
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The Permaculture way is to get to know your land and determine what would be best suited to it while still providing for your needs. This requires significantly less work initially, less money and investment, and significantly less maintenance. But it does require a lot more planning. This is working with nature! Don't get me wrong, there is a place for "working" the land a bit. But you have to balance this with how much work and environmental change (locally, I mean) you are willing to push. <br />
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In a sense, it may seem I am talking out of both sides of my mouth: pH doesn't matter... evaluate your land and pick species that suit it. Well, with pH specifically, unless we are dealing with a very sick piece of land that requires regeneration and rehabilitation, then I am really not too worried about pH. <br />
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When it comes to temperatures, sun exposure, wind exposure, etc., these factors are a bit more inflexible. But as I explained above, pH is a bit more complex, less predictable, and therefore less worrisome for me. I know I will plant some shrubs or trees that will not find a good niche on my land. I will try to help it get established, but after that, it is mostly on its own. I will help maintain it, but I do not want to spend a lot of time on it. If I did, I would spend more and more time on things that give less and less, or I will spend more money and time to "fix" a problem that would not be an issue for another plant. <br />
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So, here is what expect to happen. When setting up a Forest Garden, do your best to select species and varieties as ideally suited to your land as possible. Pick a few plants that fall outside of that range... within reason. Don't grow banana trees from the tropics in a windy tundra field. But we can try to grow a plant that is best suited one or two <strong><em><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">USDA Heat Zones</a></em></strong> north or south in our forest. We can try to grow a few plants that have more or less moisture requirements that we currently have, because this can change and because plants can adapt. We can certainly plant a tree that prefers a more neutral pH in a soil that appears to be a little more acidic.<br />
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Expect to lose some of your plants. Some plants will not survive. This is part of gardening and part of forest life in general. I would prefer that this did not happen, but not every plant is going to be ideally suited to your land. You will get some surprises though. That tree that really prefers a bit more heat, may do very well, and that tree species that is growing great on your neighbor's land gets sick and dies within the first year. This is okay. This is part of Forest Gardening. When a plant dies or does not thrive, then remove it and try another variety or another species. This is also mimicking the <strong><em><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/08/managing-pseudo-primary-succession-aka.html">natural succession in a forest</a></em></strong>.<br />
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<em>I pulled out my Edible Forest Gardens book by Jacke & Toensmeier, and it does look like I have a lot of acid-loving fruit-bearing alternatives I could plant. Prunus cerasifera (Myrobalan Plum), Prunus pumila (Eastern Dwarf Cherry), several species from the Ribes genus (currants, gooseberries, and jostaberries), several species from the Rubus genus (blackberries, cloudberries, black raspberries, etc.) and a wide variety of blueberries could be alternative fruit-bearing plants to the Paw Paws. There also does not seem to be a shortage of acid-loving greens (although I really want to plant Stinging Nettle and Good King Henry and they both like the pH to be at least 5.5. I guess I could apply lime to just a small area...</em><br />
These are all great species! I would say to try them all! I would avoid liming or adding specific soil amendments if you can, especially when you are talking less than 1 pH point. However, sometimes when you are dealing with very unhealthy soil, amendments will speed the healing process. As I wrote above, plant a variety of plants from a variety of sorces, and they will self-select. The ones that can tolerate a little variation in their requirements will thrive, and the ones that cannot probably do not belong in your forest.<br />
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<em>I guess my basic question is, would you work around the current pH of 5.3 and plant things that would work in the existing forest, or would you try to stick with the original plan of planting Paw Paw trees and amend the soil accordingly? </em><br />
One of the reasons I loved this question was that it showed me I was wrong! I really mean that. I love to learn new things, and new things really stick when I am corrected. I absolutely love the book(s) <em>Edible Forest Gardens</em>. I use it as a reference frequently. I realized I used it as a reference when I put together <strong><em><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/08/permaculture-plants-pawpaw.html">my article on Pawpaws</a></em></strong>. This was my mistake. I typically try to verify specific facts like pH requirement with at least three sources. I think since this was one of my early articles, and I was not yet in the habit of doing this. So I passed on this reference's mistake. (You are going to love this!)<br />
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Pawpaws prefer acidic soil! Today, I found just over a dozen references, and the most liberal state that Pawpaws prefer soil with a pH in the 4.7-7.2 range. I think conservatively we can say that most Pawpaws will do very well in soil with a pH of 5.1-7.0. I actually just updated my original article because of this.<br />
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After thinking about this, it only makes sense. Pawpaws are native to your area in the first place. They originate in the southeastern United States. Most of this area has native soils in the acidic to neutral pH range, so it would seem odd that this native tree would fall so outside that range.<br />
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Pawpaws will likely do very well for you in your Forest Garden.<br />
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So, the bottom line... <br />
<ul>
<li>Try to work with nature instead of fight against it.</li>
<li>Don't worry too much about pH when you have healthy, undisturbed soil, and you are planting perennial shrubs and trees.</li>
<li>Expect to lose plants as your forest matures and see this as nature taking some extra work away from you.</li>
<li>Variety will give you the best chance for success. Nature doesn't create monoculture.</li>
<li>Question all things. Verify with multiple sources. Don't be afraid to be wrong... you just might learn something new!</li>
</ul>
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All the best!<br />
John<br />
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John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-7501800329585123282013-03-13T20:24:00.001-01:002013-03-13T20:24:15.648-01:00Video: Sorrel featured on Eat The Weeds<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLc0mfCnxaP3eqa_w0r1a26Dj_BHnpyJodBGqunPW2oDNIebZk240CXYCIcsTxnSBJ1xv7J9dTUlkNjRAHFc9VP5UjT2g9gpX2vhGYuirG_bimhm4qqHgJQ_FSM8bsXxlHvZAvMr398NND/s1600/Sorrel04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLc0mfCnxaP3eqa_w0r1a26Dj_BHnpyJodBGqunPW2oDNIebZk240CXYCIcsTxnSBJ1xv7J9dTUlkNjRAHFc9VP5UjT2g9gpX2vhGYuirG_bimhm4qqHgJQ_FSM8bsXxlHvZAvMr398NND/s400/Sorrel04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Common Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>)</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><a href="http://gonetoseed.wordpress.com/2011/05/04/sorrel-soup/" style="color: #114c1b; text-decoration: none;">http://gonetoseed.wordpress.com/2011/05/04/sorrel-soup/</a></i></span></div>
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I recently wrote <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/03/permaculture-plants-sorrel.html">an article on Sorrel</a></i></b>. For a follow-up, I am sharing this video by Green Dean from Eat The Weeds. It is great for helping you identify these plants in the wild, and it give a bit more information on the <i>Rumex </i>species.<br />
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/LrkX48HZ_sc/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LrkX48HZ_sc&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LrkX48HZ_sc&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrkX48HZ_sc">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrkX48HZ_sc</a></i></div>
John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-20883824522431300822013-03-11T22:09:00.001-01:002013-03-11T22:11:32.602-01:00Permaculture Plants: Sorrel<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RLwHgBw7a5mewiWoAWu8_rLC7mp3O64rhNZgA2x-S7MYayoxzmwqObALoprqBc99jxKrd3vfxsVnwxve0Y9AqZy3LAWgxRXQOH7kOYypmc1DyQjYzOoR4zlWUlfl2_O_0rzbjuUR-a9L/s1600/Sorrel03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RLwHgBw7a5mewiWoAWu8_rLC7mp3O64rhNZgA2x-S7MYayoxzmwqObALoprqBc99jxKrd3vfxsVnwxve0Y9AqZy3LAWgxRXQOH7kOYypmc1DyQjYzOoR4zlWUlfl2_O_0rzbjuUR-a9L/s400/Sorrel03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>A patch of wild Common Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) </b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.ediblebritain.co.uk/images/plant/Sorrel_01825.JPG">http://www.ediblebritain.co.uk/images/plant/Sorrel_01825.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Common Name: Sorrel</span></b><br />
<b>Scientific Name: </b><i>Rumex </i>species<br />
<b>Family: </b>Polygonaceae (the Buckwheat or Smartweed family)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvsVkohbhdZ4F0qdzWwKFi-EdRl273s6-mACX-ci0lgJDwvNGwb-ul-pE1P1hv1yEhHKCzjV2ozx8fVCHxavL3SCPzeSXfX2AYly1-hnSlZQ-EY5j-4SxTfmsoT3H8sIoNNV2Bg8USS3v/s1600/Sorrel07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvsVkohbhdZ4F0qdzWwKFi-EdRl273s6-mACX-ci0lgJDwvNGwb-ul-pE1P1hv1yEhHKCzjV2ozx8fVCHxavL3SCPzeSXfX2AYly1-hnSlZQ-EY5j-4SxTfmsoT3H8sIoNNV2Bg8USS3v/s400/Sorrel07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>It is easy to see why Sheep's Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>) is also called Red Sorrel</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://lettersfromsheppey.blogspot.pt/2011_05_01_archive.html">http://lettersfromsheppey.blogspot.pt/2011_05_01_archive.html</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Common Species:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>French or Common Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) </li>
<li><b>Sheep's, Red, or Field Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>)</li>
<li><b>Monk's Rhubarb </b>(<i>Rumex alpinus</i>)</li>
<li><b>Herb Patience </b>(<i>Rumex patientia</i>)</li>
<li><b>Buckler-Leaved or French Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex scutatus</i>)</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoMHo0ijOyXICNWkTMx7azzShHhMbEjognQcnbg74PaplD-LymM9N4y9HcTlMeF8sjzeA1k3ODirFPclasovHVpZTJExPeTLJYwDcIzuvH8CraQRIFSgjcD7ost6DvWmrgAJ9hE-w0JTUu/s1600/Sorrel10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoMHo0ijOyXICNWkTMx7azzShHhMbEjognQcnbg74PaplD-LymM9N4y9HcTlMeF8sjzeA1k3ODirFPclasovHVpZTJExPeTLJYwDcIzuvH8CraQRIFSgjcD7ost6DvWmrgAJ9hE-w0JTUu/s400/Sorrel10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (<i>Rumex scutatus</i>) has a more spade-shaped leaf.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://greenlifeinsocal.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/097-sorrel.jpg">http://greenlifeinsocal.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/097-sorrel.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Description:</b><br />
Docks and Sorrels are closely related species belonging to the <i>Rumex</i> genus. Most species are considered "weeds", but the ones listed here have a fantastically refreshing and bright flavor - think lemony lettuce! The flowers, seeds, and even roots are edible as well. They attract beneficial insects, mine for minerals in the soil, and are drought-tolerant to name but a few of their traits. An easy to maintain addition in the Forest Garden.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQu_jkhqHYmsfaJOVK7m9Md4hsYT3HzdKZg6V4o1lKXsQRNAYPdnLiS9zIqytl1xTO-qMRNic1PO02QUf25XEvbSjdxPaEfr2tLHKAN4hBKnpM4MMSREcnf2CawAOh6sEEyesl7VOaRjMt/s1600/Sorrel01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQu_jkhqHYmsfaJOVK7m9Md4hsYT3HzdKZg6V4o1lKXsQRNAYPdnLiS9zIqytl1xTO-qMRNic1PO02QUf25XEvbSjdxPaEfr2tLHKAN4hBKnpM4MMSREcnf2CawAOh6sEEyesl7VOaRjMt/s400/Sorrel01.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<b>Common Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) </b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/78/Rumex_acetosa_Sturm59.jpg">http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/78/Rumex_acetosa_Sturm59.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjS73iHbCITbzPrcfboIMyrkGDwBywrsLTypXoAtszaky2D-kZ_AyEYva2mvq2wHHlsPcmh8wGfxRWW0dpL87qKhUvCGTFSfaYgHMttSPv2v-ptb_q7wpLCUEqNRo8FpBQ6RafQXgLfVE/s1600/Sorrel02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjS73iHbCITbzPrcfboIMyrkGDwBywrsLTypXoAtszaky2D-kZ_AyEYva2mvq2wHHlsPcmh8wGfxRWW0dpL87qKhUvCGTFSfaYgHMttSPv2v-ptb_q7wpLCUEqNRo8FpBQ6RafQXgLfVE/s400/Sorrel02.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<b>Sheep, Red, or Field Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>)</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><a href="http://fr.academic.ru/pictures/frwiki/82/Rumex_acetosella_Sturm58.jpg">http://fr.academic.ru/pictures/frwiki/82/Rumex_acetosella_Sturm58.jpg</a></i></span></div>
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<b>History:</b><br />
There are over 200 species in the <i>Rumex</i> genus. Where these plants were not native, they were introduced on purpose or on accident, and they can now be found the world over. Only a few species of Sorrel have had much interest by plant breeders, so the wild plants are what we have.<br />
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<b>Trivia:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>"Sorrel" is also used to describe parts or tea from the Hibiscus which is popular around the Equator, but has no relation to the <i>Rumex </i>species</li>
<li>Sorrel is used fresh and cooked around the world in traditional cuisine most commonly in Europe, but also Africa and Asia</li>
<li>Sheep Sorrel was used to revegetate overgrazed fields in Australia</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiQXeaJtcpE0NXU3m5rOVsBuAAFZywxUbcy-4NtEjc9Av0ghqjNQjHEj33S8IVHgZMawSzS7M61GQyi4PKg0Gd4IXXPmIGO7naAHV82A3GZUsmBeaMZGQI4mh0eG3uU7XEhYphjN8HwT-/s1600/Sorrel11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiQXeaJtcpE0NXU3m5rOVsBuAAFZywxUbcy-4NtEjc9Av0ghqjNQjHEj33S8IVHgZMawSzS7M61GQyi4PKg0Gd4IXXPmIGO7naAHV82A3GZUsmBeaMZGQI4mh0eG3uU7XEhYphjN8HwT-/s400/Sorrel11.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<b>Sorrel is best picked when leaves are young and tender.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.sarahraven.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/r/french-sorrel.jpg">http://www.sarahraven.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/r/french-sorrel.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoK1qRYPALXzJyGsAIppESR05nBnLUW5mQBCeF6WfFN35PAgmOVCz8rXatdSLuDNvQ1ypg-4ZQnQEAr9JZVCJRVPIs8wSelBMUW3RcD-NSmHW0oOsduDMqBnbmzEDxntYepvGbc-_gGOfS/s1600/Sorrel04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoK1qRYPALXzJyGsAIppESR05nBnLUW5mQBCeF6WfFN35PAgmOVCz8rXatdSLuDNvQ1ypg-4ZQnQEAr9JZVCJRVPIs8wSelBMUW3RcD-NSmHW0oOsduDMqBnbmzEDxntYepvGbc-_gGOfS/s400/Sorrel04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Common Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) - here's a recipe for soup:</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i><a href="http://gonetoseed.wordpress.com/2011/05/04/sorrel-soup/">http://gonetoseed.wordpress.com/2011/05/04/sorrel-soup/</a></i></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">USING THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Primary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><i>Edible Leaves </i>- unique fruity, sour (lemony) taste. Can be used raw (salads, on sandwiches, etc.) or cooked like spinach (soups, sauces, stews, pastries, spanakopita, quiches, etc.). The leaves may even be boiled to impart a lemony flavor to the water which is cooled and sweetened and used like lemonade.</li>
<li><i>Edible Flowers</i> - typically used as a garnish for salads, but may be cooked as well.</li>
<li><i>Edible Roots</i> - Some species have a large taproot which can be dried, ground, and used as a flour adjunct</li>
<li><i>Edible Seeds</i> - May be eaten raw or cooked. May be dried, ground, and used as a flour adjunct</li>
</ul>
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<b>Secondary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>General insect nectar plant</li>
<li><b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/01/dynamic-accumulators.html">Dynamic Accumulator Plant</a></i></b> - Excellent! (Potassium, Phosphorus, Calcium, Iron, Sodium)</li>
<li>Groundcover Plant</li>
<li><b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/09/pioneer-species-for-temperate-climate.html">Pioneer Species</a></i></b> - the deep roots can help break up hardened soils</li>
<li>Drought Tolerant Species</li>
<li>Juice from the leaves can be used to curdle milk</li>
<li>Juice from the leaves can be used to clean stains in clothing</li>
<li>Dye Plant - roots, leaves, and stems</li>
<li>Likely a decent feed plant for most domestic animals - chickens will eat the seeds (let them harvest themselves!) and greens sparingly</li>
</ul>
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<b>Harvesting: </b>Spring harvest for leaves. Pick when young as older leaves are more fibrous.<br />
<b>Storage: </b>Used fresh most commonly, but the leaves can be dried and used later.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwl-VuPnbGoHVgwvb5s4v9hqufkqHhHDXXIQi_hbhLWWTxb7nmr4gWBKaHjVYXclLZjzHBx7jHuZkCZHIyp5D4Hlt_x1F4QHT7lfwDkPhqTgUJCxzu1BEmZEOO617VZAm7AIWxmC9m-pF/s1600/Sorrel08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwl-VuPnbGoHVgwvb5s4v9hqufkqHhHDXXIQi_hbhLWWTxb7nmr4gWBKaHjVYXclLZjzHBx7jHuZkCZHIyp5D4Hlt_x1F4QHT7lfwDkPhqTgUJCxzu1BEmZEOO617VZAm7AIWxmC9m-pF/s400/Sorrel08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Monk's Rhubarb is tolerant of cold climates, like alpine regions, hence its scientific name.</b></div>
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<i>(Rumex alpinus</i>) </div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Rumex_alpinus_a1.jpg">http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Rumex_alpinus_a1.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/01/dynamic-accumulators.html">USDA Hardiness Zone</a>:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>French or Common Sorrel </b>(<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) - Zone 3-9</li>
<li><b>Sheep's Sorrel </b>(<i>Rumex acetosella</i>) - Zone 1-9 </li>
<li><b>Buckler-Leaved Sorrel </b>(<i>Rumex scutatus</i>) - Zone 3-9</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/01/dynamic-accumulators.html">AHS Heat Zone</a>: </b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>French or Common Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) - Zone 6-1 </li>
<li><b>Sheep's Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>): 10-1 </li>
<li><b>Buckler-Leaved Sorrel </b>(<i>Rumex scutatus</i>) - Zone 6-1</li>
</ul>
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<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/chilling-requirement-for-plants.html">Chill Requirement</a>:</b> No reliable information can be found<br />
<br />
<b>Plant Type:</b> Herbaceous perennial<br />
<b>Leaf Type: </b>Deciduous (some varieties are evergreen)<br />
<b>Forest Garden Use: </b>Herbaceous Layer, Groundcover Layer<br />
<b>Cultivars/Varieties:</b> Many species available. Some few have been improved.<br />
<br />
<b>Pollination:</b> May be Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile or Dioecious (male and female plants) depending on the species. Pollinated by wind.<br />
<b>Flowering:</b> May-September<br />
<br />
<b>Life Span: </b>No reliable information can be found, but as these plants reseed so easily, it is almost a moot question.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizSIXUnxE_OMBsmF4Ap8-NqX5xJiVoQ7vX4e-_eq-2DDIOLm3IVxPuDwH14-Zf8w73x7J97lp8CT0K9vJJFyE37KWZVn9ChbN5DPpEVX8UucyzcnQv-VHmcvdDuWc4xNfnk44OEPpCzgIz/s1600/Sorrel06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizSIXUnxE_OMBsmF4Ap8-NqX5xJiVoQ7vX4e-_eq-2DDIOLm3IVxPuDwH14-Zf8w73x7J97lp8CT0K9vJJFyE37KWZVn9ChbN5DPpEVX8UucyzcnQv-VHmcvdDuWc4xNfnk44OEPpCzgIz/s400/Sorrel06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Sorrel's have small flowers that attract small, beneficial insects.</b></div>
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Sheep's Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>)</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://warehouse1.indicia.org.uk/upload/Sorrel,%20Sheep's%20(Rumex%20acetosella)%20Donkey%20Lane%20Allotments%20Sapcote%20SP%204860%209304%20(taken%209.7.2006).JPG">http://warehouse1.indicia.org.uk/upload/Sorrel,%20Sheep's%20(Rumex%20acetosella)%20Donkey%20Lane%20Allotments%20Sapcote%20SP%204860%209304%20(taken%209.7.2006).JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-c6mOhp_-jszSP6pLnqjoDXKVE-_UDGW8QyzcWlgXAtHxaDERfPpXH1hqd2noooaOc3gZ6ubO_cHExCpZiSptsUKxbK2vIp6gQiPLH0AnXy4m_nbeATA5p-GqFeTO8ZDzqjCKNpnCh4y/s1600/Sorrel05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-c6mOhp_-jszSP6pLnqjoDXKVE-_UDGW8QyzcWlgXAtHxaDERfPpXH1hqd2noooaOc3gZ6ubO_cHExCpZiSptsUKxbK2vIp6gQiPLH0AnXy4m_nbeATA5p-GqFeTO8ZDzqjCKNpnCh4y/s400/Sorrel05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>While many species have taproots, all species have deep-growing roots.</b></div>
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Sheep's Sorrel (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>)</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.healthfreedom.info/P1010522.JPG">http://www.healthfreedom.info/P1010522.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Size: </b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>French or Common Sorrel </b>(<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) - 12-36 inches tall and 12 inches wide</li>
<li><b>Sheep's Sorrel</b> (<i>Rumex acetosella</i>) - 6 inches tall and indefinitely wide</li>
<li><b>Buckler-Leaved Sorrel </b>(<i>Rumex scutatus</i>) - 12 inches tall and 12-24 inches wide</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Roots: </b>Deep and fibrous, some species have a taproot; Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) has stolons (stems called "runners" that grow along the ground and produce roots, and then new plants)<br />
<b>Growth Rate:</b> Medium to Fast<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFHEFe7jq8q4KjhkJNJtSywG5Mw5D7-XoqWdyGh1rSr0zSBJWs1-a7PwQqwqSVm0CHCu-ey0bxjw5aQOkxd7vNxKpGuJb_uk6unZBlX_jv_N4jPuMTvUKB7Syy-_qB9BDlhZDdqWTrAAtU/s1600/Sorrel09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFHEFe7jq8q4KjhkJNJtSywG5Mw5D7-XoqWdyGh1rSr0zSBJWs1-a7PwQqwqSVm0CHCu-ey0bxjw5aQOkxd7vNxKpGuJb_uk6unZBlX_jv_N4jPuMTvUKB7Syy-_qB9BDlhZDdqWTrAAtU/s400/Sorrel09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>While not its main use, Sorrels can produce a decent amount of seed.</b></div>
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Herb Patience (<i>Rumex patientia</i>)</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://web.ewu.edu/ewflora/Polygonaceae/rum_pat1_ps.jpg">http://web.ewu.edu/ewflora/Polygonaceae/rum_pat1_ps.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Light: </b>Prefers full sun<br />
<b>Shade: </b>Most species tolerate light shade, although some can tolerate moderate shade<br />
<b>Moisture: </b>Dry to medium-moisture soils<br />
<b>pH:</b> can tolerate a very wide range of soils (3.5-8.5)<br />
<br />
<b>Special Considerations for Growing: </b>None<br />
<br />
<b>Propagation: </b><br />
Typically, and easily, by seed - direct sow in Spring. Can transplant "wild" specimens. Can divide plants in Spring.<br />
<br />
<b>Maintenance:</b><br />
None. Flowering will stop new leaf growth, so you can encourage young leaf growth by cutting off the flowering stem.<br />
<br />
<b>Concerns:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Poisonous - Leaves and contain oxalic acid. Large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic. When cooked, much of the oxalic acid is reduced.</li>
<li>Running types can be expansive - they can grow all over the place.</li>
<li>Many varieties of Sorrel reseed very easily, so some consider them a bit invasive... I see this as a great trait!</li>
</ul>
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<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-18489185461632795932013-03-10T19:53:00.001-01:002013-03-10T19:53:56.483-01:00A Mini Guild: Beans, Cucumbers, Bougainvillea, Stinging Nettle<br />
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<b>Seedlings of Purple Podded Pole Bean (left) and Japanese Climbing Cucumber (right)</b></div>
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My boys (age 4 years and almost 5 years old) wanted to help me in the garden this weekend. I decided to try a small experiment. I have a spot that gets a few hours of morning sun, and that is it. It is not an ideal location for typical garden vegetables, but I only have a couple of seedlings to lose if it doesn't work.</div>
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There was a mixed variety of plants growing under a rather old Bougainvillea: some perennial flowering bulbs that the landlord (or their gardener) planted years ago, a low-growing mat of wispy little-leaved plants, a few shoots of ferns, and a single, small Stinging Nettle. I cleared a spot, and my boys and I planted the seedlings. I left the bulbs and Stinging Nettle. I shredded the other unknown plant and used it as a mulch for the seedlings.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span">My thought is that if there is enough light there for these plants to survive, then we just created a mini-</span><b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/permaculture-guilds.html">Permaculture Guild</a></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span">. The bean is a legume and is a <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/05/plants-nitrogen-fixers.html">nitrogen-fixing plant</a></i></b>... it will provide nitrogen (not a lot, but some) for the fast growing cucumber. The cucumber and bean are both climbing plants. They can be trained to grow up the tall <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/09/permaculture-plants-bougainvillea.html">Bougainvillea</a></i></b>, which will be putting out beautiful blooms later in the Summer close to when the cucumber and beans will be ready to harvest. The flowering bulbs are pretty and will provide a bit of ground cover until the seedlings are taller. The <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/02/permaculture-plants-stinging-nettle.html">Stinging Nettle</a></i></b> is small, but by cutting out the competing ground cover around it, I have given it room to grow. As it does, it will become a ground cover of its own with edible leaves. When the Stinging Nettle gets a bit too big, which they usually do in places you don't specifically want them, I will cut it back and use its leaves... young leaves to eat and old leaves as mulch. Since Stinging Nettle is a <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/01/dynamic-accumulators.html">Dynamic Accumulator</a></i></b>, its mulch is rich in nutrients, specifically potassium, calcium, sulfur, copper, iron, and sodium. </span></div>
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<b>Seedlings (left), Bougainvillea (back), Stinging Nettle (lower right)</b></div>
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This small patch of soil is now home to a small Permaculture Guild. Our yard is full of very pretty, but not very useful plants. However, this spot with a big, old Bougainvillea with its understory of flowering bulbs, when neglected for a few years so that a few "weeds" spring up, and with the addition of a few annual vegetables, now becomes a very productive spot that requires minimal maintenance. </div>
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This is a tiny glimpse of home-scale Permaculture!</div>
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John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-5112677230471099112013-03-08T19:45:00.004-01:002013-03-08T19:51:40.218-01:00Rocket Stove Kickstarter by Paul Wheaton of Permies.com<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFokoR5oxRoxsqKqERt3cec13mVC_xd4cb6Imn6SgAbIGCFauhHxxF-nXbFCg_RY7hjyZhyphenhyphenVbp1XMPbgV1p-CNig5WB6NsYLOtOx5wqvIcCQPkVoNeJ6ckcKn2pUTNTrkQn9es5TlUBoiN/s1600/toby-hemenway-paul-wheaton.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFokoR5oxRoxsqKqERt3cec13mVC_xd4cb6Imn6SgAbIGCFauhHxxF-nXbFCg_RY7hjyZhyphenhyphenVbp1XMPbgV1p-CNig5WB6NsYLOtOx5wqvIcCQPkVoNeJ6ckcKn2pUTNTrkQn9es5TlUBoiN/s400/toby-hemenway-paul-wheaton.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Paul Wheaton (big) and Toby Hemenway (little)</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11191/tnk/Blog-Header-Images">http://www.permies.com/t/11191/tnk/Blog-Header-Images</a></span></i></div>
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Here is a Kickstarter project for Rocket Stoves that I would highly recommend examining. I have written about <a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/09/rocket-mass-heater.html">Rocket Mass Heaters</a>, and the Rocket Stoves are where the mass heater originated. Take a look and contribute if you feel like it is worthwhile... I do.<br />
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<i><a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/paulwheaton/wood-burning-stoves-20-the-dvds">http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/paulwheaton/wood-burning-stoves-20-the-dvds</a></i></div>
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<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-27271589269108451772013-03-06T20:20:00.001-01:002013-03-06T20:24:40.474-01:00Video: Toby Hemenway - Redesigning Civilization<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhspZqyMF7k6oYNzgIraia_1LywvxgDfZmoxLG_cRqHvSGBmoZWwNUhofLpKbJAc-eQ_w4YSM0P29mNy9hrxC8qipXnp21FhUJ8NbEOuCBpOjQvibkesAhE5j0elHWAj-Xd8JDAjbWGP4so/s1600/Toby-Hemenway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhspZqyMF7k6oYNzgIraia_1LywvxgDfZmoxLG_cRqHvSGBmoZWwNUhofLpKbJAc-eQ_w4YSM0P29mNy9hrxC8qipXnp21FhUJ8NbEOuCBpOjQvibkesAhE5j0elHWAj-Xd8JDAjbWGP4so/s400/Toby-Hemenway.jpg" width="263" /></a></div>
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<b>Toby Hemenway is one of the world's most prominent voices in Permaculture today.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.groaction.com/discover/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Toby-Hemenway.jpg">http://www.groaction.com/discover/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Toby-Hemenway.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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Toby Hemenway is the author of <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/05/permaculture-books-basics.html">Gaia's Garden</a></i></b>. This book about homescale Permaculture has been the number one selling Permaculture book for the last five years (I believe). It really is a great book if you have not read it yet.<br />
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This video is also a great look at civilization and agriculture and the contrast with Permaculture.<br />
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While I do not agree with everything that Toby says here in this lecture, and I may write some articles on that in the future, I really do agree with the overall message.<br />
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If you have the time, I highly recommend watching this video.<br />
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/H6b7zJ-hx_c/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/H6b7zJ-hx_c&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/H6b7zJ-hx_c&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6b7zJ-hx_c"><i>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6b7zJ-hx_c</i></a></div>
John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-15978753572270384292013-03-05T21:59:00.001-01:002013-03-05T21:59:17.129-01:00Permaculture Tip: Perennializing Annual Vegetables - Leeks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>The leek is an "annual" vegetable that we may be able to make perennial.</b></div>
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Leeks are one of my favorite vegetables. They are kind of like a mix between an onion and garlic in flavor, a mix of onion and scallion and shallot in use, and a mix of scallion and maybe cabbage in texture. They offer a great flavor addition to many dishes, and I use them quite a bit.<br />
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Leeks are biennial plants. This means that they will grow for a full season, winter over, and then flower the next season. Leeks can be harvested whenever you want them. When younger, they are more tender and can be used a bit more like a shallot. When they are older, the leaves are a bit tougher, and they can be used like large onions or almost like cabbage.<br />
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I have bought leeks from the grocery store that still had a bit of the roots left on them. I chopped the lower 2-3 inches off (10-15 cm) and let it sit in a jar of water for a few days, then I planted them in the garden. Be warned that this water starts to stink very quickly. I actually do not think this step is necessary, but I have always been too busy to plant them right away. I know it will be a day or two before I will go outside and take the time (okay, it is about one minute!) to plant them, so I stick them in the water. I have left the leek "bulbs" in the water for up to a week. Within a few weeks of planting them in the soil, there are new shoots growing from the center.<br />
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This is also a great way to short-cut planting leeks from seeds.<br />
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My thought was that this technique could be indefinitely perpetuated. However, I have not lived in a place long enough to test this theory more than a two seasons. But then I listened to an old Permaculture course taught by Bill Mollison, the founder of Permaculture. He had a recommendation that cut out a few of my steps. When a leek is ready to be harvested, instead of pulling the whole plant out, just cut it off at ground level. Then let the plant keep on growing... just as if you harvested it and then replanted the root end.<br />
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Perennial Leeks! Fantastic!<br />
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If you live in an area that freezes, you can overwinter the leeks by covering them with straw or grass clippings, then in Spring just uncover the mulch. The only concern is that after overwintering, the leek may bolt sooner, but you may be able to stop it by cutting off the flower stalk before it grows too large. I need to experiment with this. I will let you know what I find. If you have done this, please let us know!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; line-height: 14px;"><i>A <b>Permaculture Tip</b> is an idea that is derived from observing and interacting with nature. It is simple. It is safe. It is effective. It helps build a sustainable system of agriculture and life in general. If you have any <b>Permaculture Tips</b> you would like to share, please let me know. I will post it here, give you the credit, and post a link to your blog or website if you have one. Email me here: kitsteiner@hotmail.com</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; line-height: 14px;"><i><br /></i></span>John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-25324103922817337742013-03-04T21:37:00.003-01:002013-03-04T21:37:51.429-01:00Permaculture Plants: Pecans and Hickory<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyCpdolg4V3AcNfKXj02pnLmOJvE3ioePslTPcp_RJ3EDAHwo39RKSb_4mhU-gvdAUyH0G5Ncvz2ighWGdLd0I718IwYC6W76QV5SEHSCg4g5uZd1yo3MxkCFByYNEWMODAA8eTuBy80d/s1600/HickoryPecan04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyCpdolg4V3AcNfKXj02pnLmOJvE3ioePslTPcp_RJ3EDAHwo39RKSb_4mhU-gvdAUyH0G5Ncvz2ighWGdLd0I718IwYC6W76QV5SEHSCg4g5uZd1yo3MxkCFByYNEWMODAA8eTuBy80d/s400/HickoryPecan04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Pecans... a favorite nut!</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://worldhungerrelief.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pecans.jpg">http://worldhungerrelief.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pecans.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Common Name: Pecan and Hickory</span></b><br />
<b>Scientific Name: </b><i>Carya </i>species<br />
<b>Family: </b>Juglandaceae (the Walnut family)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwzqzCgBrxkj6Ju_UIRhvY2hnFcK76ykRmXqqZxzWRB_mr3nwfaoJPH-K_un2sYwVc-kRIFo6J7ASzwu1wZXuYW4iNtMZfmvtifAcepYZ7xi3vVorKGNPwLQRDIZq-qVWkkNcX4hsEUz48/s1600/HickoryPecan02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwzqzCgBrxkj6Ju_UIRhvY2hnFcK76ykRmXqqZxzWRB_mr3nwfaoJPH-K_un2sYwVc-kRIFo6J7ASzwu1wZXuYW4iNtMZfmvtifAcepYZ7xi3vVorKGNPwLQRDIZq-qVWkkNcX4hsEUz48/s400/HickoryPecan02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Hickory Nuts</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://ironoakfarm.blogspot.pt/2012/10/delicious-hickory-nuts.html">http://ironoakfarm.blogspot.pt/2012/10/delicious-hickory-nuts.html</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Common Species:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Pecan </b>(<i>Carya illinoinensis</i>) – large to very large tree</li>
<li><b>Shellbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya laciniosa</i>) – large tree</li>
<li><b>Shagbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya ovata</i>) – large tree</li>
<li><b>Hican</b> (<i>Carya x hybrids</i>) – large to very large tree</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje1VD79IWvLCQpxjVsnRslsnexOVPDWNQcSGs6ytSfSuOwaJsSPNnsD97uJ3BV0YKIgE2e7_VLpai2KKJ4fS4tQawDjjGCmzexdxiPB2V_Wl17tCyLvFonGRqgfvDj0B-jzRUR9P7Bp3Eq/s1600/HickoryPecan09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje1VD79IWvLCQpxjVsnRslsnexOVPDWNQcSGs6ytSfSuOwaJsSPNnsD97uJ3BV0YKIgE2e7_VLpai2KKJ4fS4tQawDjjGCmzexdxiPB2V_Wl17tCyLvFonGRqgfvDj0B-jzRUR9P7Bp3Eq/s400/HickoryPecan09.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<b>Shagbark Hickory (<i>Carya ovata</i>)... Stunning!</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://davisla3.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/carya-ovata.jpg">http://davisla3.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/carya-ovata.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Less Common Species:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Water Hickory</b> (<i>Carya aquatica</i>) - large tree, used mainly for wood and fuel</li>
<li><b>Chinese Hickory </b>(<i>Carya cathayensis</i>) - large tree, used for nuts, oil (nut), and wood</li>
<li><b>Bitternut Hickory </b>(<i>Carya cordiformis</i>) - large tree, used mainly for wood and fuel</li>
<li><b>Pignut Hickory</b> (<i>Carya glabra</i>) - very large tree, variable flavored nut, used mainly for wood and fuel</li>
<li><b>Mockernut Hickory </b>(<i>Carya tomentosa</i>) - very large tree, good flavored nut but very tough shell, used mainly for wood and fuel </li>
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<b>A majestic Pecan tree</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xbu7EMFklFk/TxOlyyQuCUI/AAAAAAAAPuE/TZwGkNzcFtI/s1600/PecanTree.png">http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xbu7EMFklFk/TxOlyyQuCUI/AAAAAAAAPuE/TZwGkNzcFtI/s1600/PecanTree.png</a></span></i></div>
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<b>Description:</b><br />
The Hickories and Pecans are large, slow-growing trees that can take many years to begin bearing. These majestic trees which give us some of the best tasting nuts, fantastic wood wood for smoking meat, and wood that can be used in a variety of ways, should be considered an investment for the future. I hope to enjoy, literally, the fruits of my labor, but I know my children, grandchildren, and maybe even my great-grandchildren will enjoy it as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqLA7Csio23wSJrPjKwe66Qb3Enrn9h-FJ8VS9mUn9BZasoscvvOOz1AUiEPnstSWgcMLdCJvrmtvCjavALcSY2YHmKNbFCfnhXFsLxJ1QCJsBFqpqzyZ1JP9MguBtVzonvS3SDeysXtmm/s1600/HickoryPecan05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqLA7Csio23wSJrPjKwe66Qb3Enrn9h-FJ8VS9mUn9BZasoscvvOOz1AUiEPnstSWgcMLdCJvrmtvCjavALcSY2YHmKNbFCfnhXFsLxJ1QCJsBFqpqzyZ1JP9MguBtVzonvS3SDeysXtmm/s400/HickoryPecan05.jpg" width="316" /></a></div>
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<b>Pecan (<i>Carya illinoinensis</i>) by Charles Sprague Sargent</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://0.tqn.com/d/forestry/1/0/g/6/pecan_plate.jpg">http://0.tqn.com/d/forestry/1/0/g/6/pecan_plate.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b>History:</b><br />
Native to Asia and North America, Hickories and Pecans have been used for food, wood, and fuel since people have been around to use them. These trees have been developed for larger and sweeter nuts, and the Pecans have had the most development so far.<br />
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<b>Trivia:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>The name “Hickory” comes from the Algonquian Indian (Native American people group) word pawcohiccora, meaning the nut from the Hickory tree.</li>
<li>Pecan and Hickory Nuts are not technically nuts… they are considered “drupes” or even "tryma". A drupe is a fruit with a single seed inside. So the “nut” of these plants have a soft fruit that dries and splits to reveal the seed… what we call the nut. A true nut is a fruit which forms a hard shell to cover the seed, and this hard shell (the fruit) does not split open on its own. Confused yet? It may be easiest to call it a nut!</li>
<li>“Papershell Pecans” are pecans that have such thin shells that the shell can be cracked by just squeezing together two nuts in your hand… some are so thin, that the shells can be cracked by just squuezing one nut between two fingers. However, these nuts are much more prone to cracking on the tree when the nut swells during heavy rains.</li>
<li>Pecans have nuts</li>
<li>Shagbark Hickory have nuts about 1.5 inches (4 cm) long</li>
<li>Shellbark Hickory have nuts about 2.5 inches (6 cm) long</li>
<li>The Hican is a cross between a Pecan (<i>C. illinoinensis</i>) and another Hickory species (<i>Carya</i> species)… so in reality, there are a wide variety of trees appropriately named Hican. Most hybrids have poor nuts, but the named Hicans typically produce very large and tasty nuts; although, they usually produce less nuts than either of its parents.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ4pKfSasrApIHAW_oVY1o-8GAED6-KgOEkERPUb3gDfsC7AvJWSycwkr-F8kjA5fV8guF5V9EDtLcZDCoEZVVS0SnebVUns53OUjYBI7j4MbKek6PGaf4XyD_9-6ivucRebh_Lm0D_dvf/s1600/HickoryPecan11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ4pKfSasrApIHAW_oVY1o-8GAED6-KgOEkERPUb3gDfsC7AvJWSycwkr-F8kjA5fV8guF5V9EDtLcZDCoEZVVS0SnebVUns53OUjYBI7j4MbKek6PGaf4XyD_9-6ivucRebh_Lm0D_dvf/s400/HickoryPecan11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Pecan Pies would be reason enough to plant these trees.</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkztwZT72mBQ3LAZFLRMaTjSXbVmc_y7hj_tQA8jk6NFCjCvhHrHwbJXzBayk3PaCDkZusP-QKe-NCLcpHyeePVaq8T50W2CkuEaKZvKbk6-hZcJgEowq2e8cxwKjLCBRqEEkn1v-wROZU/s1600/2+IMG_1983.JPG">https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkztwZT72mBQ3LAZFLRMaTjSXbVmc_y7hj_tQA8jk6NFCjCvhHrHwbJXzBayk3PaCDkZusP-QKe-NCLcpHyeePVaq8T50W2CkuEaKZvKbk6-hZcJgEowq2e8cxwKjLCBRqEEkn1v-wROZU/s1600/2+IMG_1983.JPG</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">USING THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Primary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Nut – Raw. Excellent taste in both Pecans and selected Hickories.</li>
<li>Nut – Cooked. Used in desserts, breads, baking, etc.</li>
<li>Nut – “Milk” can be made from Pecan nuts</li>
<li>Nut – Oil. An edible oil can be pressed from Pecans</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Secondary Uses:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>General insect pollen plant – attracts beneficial insects which feed on the pollen of these trees</li>
<li>Wildlife food</li>
<li>Wildlife shelter</li>
<li>Windbreak plant</li>
<li>Sap is edible (Hickories) – can be tapped like Maples and reduced (with heat) to make syrup. I have yet to try this syrup, but the reports on flavor I have found range from very good to fair and slightly bitter. Interesting.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/permaculture-projects-coppicing.html">Coppice Plant</a></li>
<li>Wood used for poles, posts, fence posts, stakes, tool handles (axes!).</li>
<li>Wood used for fuel (firewood), charcoal.</li>
<li>Wood is a great wood for smoking meats.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/01/dynamic-accumulators.html">Dynamic Accumulator</a> – Potassium and Calcium for all species; Phosphorus in Shagbark Hickory (<i>C. ovata</i>)</li>
<li>Biomass Plant – large tree with lots of leaf-fall every Autumn that can be left to decompose and build the forest soil, or it can be moved and used in other places or composted.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Yield: </b><br />
Highly variable on species and size of the tree. Hickories produce less than Pecans; Improved varieties often produce more than unimproved and wild species, although the hybrid Hican will produce less (but larger) nuts than the Pecan. 50 lbs (23 kg) is not uncommon for a 10-20 year old tree. Pecans can produce up to 100 lbs (46 kg) when they are 20-25 years old. A mature Pecan that is 75 years old or older can produce close to 500 lbs (225 kg) of nuts. There are some Pecans that have yielded over 1,000 lbs (450 kg) of nuts in a season!<br />
<br />
<b>Harvesting: </b>Autumn. Although if you have Pecans in more warm locations, you may harvest all the way through January. Pecans and Hickory are typically harvested after they have fallen from the tree; however, some people (and commercial operations) use nets to catch the nuts during harvest season.<br />
<b>Storage: </b>Can be used right away, but if the nuts are dried, they can store for a few years.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4w7L9Lj9BDop5RXo8N9vRedOJdtRuf1tprji4BY74PXmzXDsxAe9jj2UTKXabzlD_ySxW3lzlyRV_jyZzNorttaeo3Ffpi_m4CMKj9u6oSqDPua8Hq6KgTSJ0GPGVqfctzJwRHrvxCb52/s1600/HickoryPecan10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4w7L9Lj9BDop5RXo8N9vRedOJdtRuf1tprji4BY74PXmzXDsxAe9jj2UTKXabzlD_ySxW3lzlyRV_jyZzNorttaeo3Ffpi_m4CMKj9u6oSqDPua8Hq6KgTSJ0GPGVqfctzJwRHrvxCb52/s400/HickoryPecan10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>The long, thin, green flower clusters ("catkins") of a Pecan tree</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/Carya/Manual/choctaw-cshq2-3.1cat.jpg">http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/Carya/Manual/choctaw-cshq2-3.1cat.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">USDA Hardiness Zone:</a></b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Pecan</b> (<i>Carya illinoinensis</i>) – Zone 6-9</li>
<li><b>Shellbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya laciniosa</i>) – Zone 6</li>
<li><b>Shagbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya ovata</i>) – Zone 4-7</li>
<li><b>Hican </b>(<i>Carya x hybrids</i>) – Zone 5</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/hardiness-zones-heat-zones-and-sunset.html">AHS Heat Zone:</a></b><br />
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</div>
<ul>
<li><b>Pecan</b> (<i>Carya illinoinensis</i>) – Zone 9-1</li>
<li><b>Shellbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya laciniosa</i>) – Zone 8-1</li>
<li><b>Shagbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya ovata</i>) – Zone 8-1</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/07/chilling-requirement-for-plants.html">Chill Requirement: </a></b>650-1,550 hours/units depending on the species/variety.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Plant Type:</b> Large to very-large Trees<br />
<b>Leaf Type:</b> Deciduous<br />
<b>Forest Garden Use:</b> Canopy Layer<br />
<b>Cultivars/Varieties: </b>A few very worthwhile species. There are quite a few cultivars and hybrids available.<br />
<br />
<b>Pollination: </b>Self-Sterile (although a few varieties are self-fertile). Requires cross-pollination by other cultivars for the nuts to be produced. Pollinated by the wind. Trees can be pollinated by the wind carrying pollen from other trees up to 10 miles away!<br />
<b>Flowering: </b>Late Spring to Early Summer.<br />
<br />
<b>Life Span:</b><br />
<b>Years to Begin Bearing: </b>3-10 years for Pecans (sooner in the south); 40 years for wild Hickories (only 3-7 years if the tree was grafted)<br />
<b>Years Between Major Cropping: </b>1-2 years<br />
<b>Years of Useful Life:</b> minimim of 100 years, but most will be productive for at least 200 years. It is not uncommon for trees over 400 years old to still produce large yields.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZhHJjemezNQCGQVGmlnc4ANxS-B8xCidBPQ6iA_mn9mHUnSoDXYtUaCEDc3ZUJGasGli95gDjAaPunHav0YN95AQSFFTluQknFKsU_2TkhE2r2PCuEhhJE2ptCbjwbNSu1aZYp8jPRLne/s1600/HickoryPecan01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZhHJjemezNQCGQVGmlnc4ANxS-B8xCidBPQ6iA_mn9mHUnSoDXYtUaCEDc3ZUJGasGli95gDjAaPunHav0YN95AQSFFTluQknFKsU_2TkhE2r2PCuEhhJE2ptCbjwbNSu1aZYp8jPRLne/s400/HickoryPecan01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Shagbark Hickory Nuts</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://www.hiltonpond.org/images/HickoryShagbarkNuts01.jpg">http://www.hiltonpond.org/images/HickoryShagbarkNuts01.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XuXphZghjeb5ep5ec5WawDL0OTfaX-kKggwq9VviE4mcKdzEWoKGIYZ07ORjt6bj2_c_nH3N_3KMY9c8mYYBpqaBOshJMSvPxCxk3yqVg9HKOEFZGu4nVBc4VbpsdS0Rjn6QGOQ0Cf4C/s1600/HickoryPecan07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XuXphZghjeb5ep5ec5WawDL0OTfaX-kKggwq9VviE4mcKdzEWoKGIYZ07ORjt6bj2_c_nH3N_3KMY9c8mYYBpqaBOshJMSvPxCxk3yqVg9HKOEFZGu4nVBc4VbpsdS0Rjn6QGOQ0Cf4C/s400/HickoryPecan07.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<b>How the Shagbark Hickory got its name...</b></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="http://billandblue.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/carya-ovata-poconos-122810-wrk-003.jpg">http://billandblue.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/carya-ovata-poconos-122810-wrk-003.jpg</a></span></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Size:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Pecan </b>(<i>Carya illinoinensis</i>) – 75-120 feet (22-36 meters) tall and wide</li>
<li><b>Shellbark Hickory (</b><i>Carya laciniosa</i>) – 70-85 feet (21-25 meters) tall and 30-50 feet (9-15 meters) wide</li>
<li><b>Shagbark Hickory</b> (<i>Carya ovata</i>) – 70-85 feet (21-25 meters) tall and 30-50 feet (9-15 meters) wide</li>
<li><b>Hican</b> (<i>Carya x hybrids</i>) – 75 feet (22 meters) tall and 50 feet (15 meters) wide</li>
</ul>
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<b>Roots: </b>Single, large taproot<br />
<b>Growth Rate: </b>Slow. Some improved varieties grow at a bit faster rate than the wild species.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEN7r53jfTg8m7EMInPd3Ns1S7hQ_FJGffzwhzbxLbghnMqCp_g-CTwvfAAzoP57svE9IgR26AH8dPciLE8oF81YbHQrEaWitTLlrkMEOBvV8Tf9c92W-TehuChv1px9FLcYHUvfzhII9F/s1600/HickoryPecan08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEN7r53jfTg8m7EMInPd3Ns1S7hQ_FJGffzwhzbxLbghnMqCp_g-CTwvfAAzoP57svE9IgR26AH8dPciLE8oF81YbHQrEaWitTLlrkMEOBvV8Tf9c92W-TehuChv1px9FLcYHUvfzhII9F/s400/HickoryPecan08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Shellbark Hickory (<i>Carya laciniosa</i>)</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Check out this site for a great photo resource on Carya species: </span></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.gabotsoc.org/?page_id=4794"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.gabotsoc.org/?page_id=4794</span></a></i></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT</span></b><br />
<b>Light: </b>Full sun<br />
<b>Shade: </b>Some species tolerate light shade; the Shagbark Hickory (<i>C. ovata</i>) can tolerate a bit more shade than the other species. The Pecan (<i>C. illinoinensis</i>) doesn’t like any shade.<br />
<b>Moisture: </b>Medium soil moisture preferred. The Shellbark Hickory (<i>C. laciniosa</i>) can tolerate more wet soils. The Shagbark Hickory (<i>C. ovata</i>) can tolerate some fairly dry periods and doesn’t like wet soils or flooding.<br />
<b>pH: </b>most species prefer fairly neutral to alkaline soil (6.5-8.0)<br />
<br />
<b>Special Considerations for Growing:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Almost all of these trees are slow growing during their first few years.</li>
<li>Most species/varieties require a hot summer to thrive.</li>
<li>All species tolerate juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its close relatives… Pecans and Hickories are more distant relatives of the Walnut). Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Propagation:</b><br />
From seed – needs at least 3 months cold stratification to germinate. If starting from seed, make sure to use deep pots to give room for the taproot. Get the seedlings into their permanent spots as soon as possible to avoid damaging or stunting that taproot. Ideally, if you can protect the seeds from mice, the seeds would be planted where you want the trees to grow. Named varieties are available from grafting.<br />
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<b>Maintenance:</b><br />
Very little. Once established, almost none.<br />
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<b>Concerns:</b><br />
Truly none. However, I have my own personal concerns about the grafted varieties. The majority of Pecans are grafted onto only a few rootstocks. Granted, these rootstocks are very hardy and resistant to many diseases, but I don’t like the idea of putting all my eggs in one basket. What if a disease came along that knocked out those few rootstocks? It is highly unlikely, but what if? My goal with my (future) forest garden is not to be a commercial producer of one thing (in this case, Pecans or Hickory Nuts). My goal is to create a bountiful and resiliant ecosystem. So what will that mean in practice? Well, I will certainly have a number of named varieties of Pecans on the standard rootstocks, but I will also likely grow some of my own trees from seed. This may delay the onset of nut production for many years, but I think it is a great legacy to leave. To know I planted something that my children and grandchildren will enjoy, even when I did not, sounds pretty great to me.<br />
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-47378888191795059872013-02-28T20:43:00.000-01:002013-02-28T20:50:25.163-01:00Product Review: Carts Vermont Garden Cart<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWM-4KrZ9ttfOfz24wYgANUdTK_I9Nlu0_MsLcdOxt55wtR0hlZoywrx_APS_v1HdgoxDrLagCGTaN5fFhaj5vQ-rTlvYhc2Hc_pOyoOmbezqWB8v6FNtGAeCogb8oyucYnvXj4kU4dev/s1600/carts+vermont.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWM-4KrZ9ttfOfz24wYgANUdTK_I9Nlu0_MsLcdOxt55wtR0hlZoywrx_APS_v1HdgoxDrLagCGTaN5fFhaj5vQ-rTlvYhc2Hc_pOyoOmbezqWB8v6FNtGAeCogb8oyucYnvXj4kU4dev/s400/carts+vermont.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Carts Vermont</span></b></div>
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<i><a href="http://carts.cartsvermont.com/home.php">http://carts.cartsvermont.com/home.php</a></i></div>
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I used to have a wheelbarrow. Well, actually, I used to have multiple wheelbarrows. I would have one for a few seasons and something would break, or rust, or the tire would go flat. I would fix it and use it for as long as possible before it finally broke to a point beyond repair.<br />
<br />
But that was when I bought things that were cheap in an attempt to save money. What I realized was that I ended up spending more in the long run to replace the cheap item over and over again. I also realized that I was contributing to the "throw away" society which I am so against. Now, I take my time, research products, and buy quality products from quality companies.<br />
<br />
When I moved here to the Azores and had some space to garden, one of the first things I purchased was a Carts Vermont garden cart. I have not regretted this purchase once.<br />
<br />
Quality. Sturdy. Useful. <br />
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These are the three words I would use to descibe my Carts Vermont garden cart. We use this cart a few times a week to haul trash to the dumpster about a hundred yards from our house, and we use it about once a week to haul our recycling to the recycling bins a few blocks away. I did actually use it as it was intended, in my garden, last Autumn, and I plan to use it again this Spring.<br />
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It is truly one of the most useful tools we have in our garage. It saves us time from having to make multiple trips. It saves our backs from lifting too much. It is way easier to use than the wheelbarrow, which was a hassle to use. With two large wheels, there is no wobbling or tipping of the cart when walking. With contact at four points when left alone, it is very stable even on uneven ground. With a flat surface in the cart, there are almost no items that tip out of the cart. <br />
<br />
The materials used to build this are strong. Of course, if I was dropping boulders on it, it would break, but this cart is so much more study than those cheap wheelbarrows I used to buy. This cart will last a long time. And, I love this, I can buy replacement parts easily from their website. The cart comes unassembled, and my boys and I put it together one evening. It was easy. So I know that replacing a part, if it should break, will be just as easy.<br />
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With that said, I don't think I'll be needing to replace any parts any time soon. The entire cart is made of high quality, durable metal and wood. The design is excellent.<br />
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Needless to say, I am a huge fan of my Carts Vermont garden cart. I have the midsize cart, and I love it. If you are looking for a high quality, durable, and useful cart, I don't think you can do better than Carts Vermont.<br />
<br />
<br />John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-68955709715071174162013-02-27T21:24:00.000-01:002013-02-27T21:25:30.531-01:00Questions from Readers: What Trees to Use and Avoid in Hugelkultur Beds?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Br20dPa864di_OBC-6HcAvKd07koZkSsLt35DrF-Mg0bcNGy8MjoS9c41Sn_qaBrSXx5AEwxBTmCC9OI9dmbH9YZAr7ekZV6WgcbeTbrixhNrdABLo-uoqVoDnA5wZvdHbnuI_gBdWYv/s1600/Fig+Trimmings+Cut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Br20dPa864di_OBC-6HcAvKd07koZkSsLt35DrF-Mg0bcNGy8MjoS9c41Sn_qaBrSXx5AEwxBTmCC9OI9dmbH9YZAr7ekZV6WgcbeTbrixhNrdABLo-uoqVoDnA5wZvdHbnuI_gBdWYv/s400/Fig+Trimmings+Cut.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
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<b>The cut branches from my recently trimmed fig tree.</b></div>
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<i>Can I use the timber from the fig trees to build a Hugelkultur raised beds? </i></div>
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<i>-Valter</i></div>
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<br />
I recently had a reader post a question on my article, <i style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2013/02/pruning-fig-tree-wood-for-smoking-and.html">Pruning the Fig Tree... Wood for smoking and heat!</a> </i> For more information on hugelkultur beds, you can read about them in my article on <b><i><a href="http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2011/06/permaculture-projects-hugelkultur.html">Permaculture Projects: Hugelkultur.</a></i></b><br />
<br />
<i><br /></i>
The short answer is to Valter's question is yes.<br />
<br />
Here is the long answer...<br />
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To be honest, almost any tree, shrub, or woody material can be used for hugelkultur beds. Well, in fact, any wood at all can be used in hugelkultur beds, but some woods should really be avoided.<br />
<br />
The benefit of a hugelkultur beds is likely derived from numerous things. First, as the wood slowly breaks down, the rotting material acts like a sponge. This "sponge" holds on to water and slowly releases it over time. Any plants which are growing above it will be able to stay hydrated with deep roots during periods of little or no rainfall for much longer than other plants nearby. Great!<br />
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Second, as the tree rots, it will slowly be giving off nutrients, specifically nitrogen, which will act as a slow release fertilizer. Perfect!<br />
<br />
Third, fungus and bacteria are some of the key players in the rotting process. These organisms are also vital components to the underground network of soil life. When we place logs and branches underground (remember that they are already going to be inoculated with local fungus and bacteria, and they will readily welcome new fungus and bacteria as well) we are jump starting the intricate soil web of life. We are placing highways and tunnels all through the soil which will shoot these beneficial life forms under everything we grow. We are, in effect, helping to create an established forest soil in a matter of hours or days. Amazing!<br />
<br />
There are likely many more benefits to hugelkultur and probably dozens of more things that are going on in wood and soil, but this is what we know for sure right now.<br />
<br />
With all that said, all trees will eventually break down and be of benefit to the soil life. However, when we are designing Permaculture systems, and especially when we are trying to reclaim a barren soil or overgrazed pasture, then we want to expedite things a bit. And some wood just takes too long to rot.<br />
<br />
So we should avoid using wood that naturally resists rotting in our hugelkultur beds. Here are some examples of trees that are considered to be very or significantly rot-resistant:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Chestnut (<i>Castanea </i>species)</li>
<li>Catalpa species (<i>Catalpa</i> species)</li>
<li>Cypress species (Family Cupressaceae) i.e. Bald Cypress</li>
<li>Walnuts (<i>Juglans </i>species) - note that these trees also release juglone, a natural growth inhibitor</li>
<li>Juniper species (<i>Juniperus </i>species) i.e. Eastern Red Cedar (<i>Juniperus virginiana</i>)</li>
<li>Osage-Orange (<i>Maclura pomifera</i>)</li>
<li>Red Mulberry (<i>Morus rubra</i>)</li>
<li>Oak (<i>Quercus </i>species)</li>
<li>Black Cherry (<i>Prunus serotina</i>)</li>
<li>Black Locust (<i>Robinia pseudoacacia</i>)</li>
<li>Sassafras species (<i>Sassafras </i>species)</li>
<li>Redwood species (<i>Sequoia</i> species)</li>
<li>Pacific Yew (<i>Taxus brevifolia</i>)</li>
</ul>
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John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com187tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204378405679327332.post-14291579950656353372013-02-26T05:47:00.000-01:002013-02-26T05:47:50.188-01:00Book Review: The Brewmaster's Table<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0060005718/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0060005718&linkCode=as2&tag=becaofisaa-20"><img border="0" src="http://ws.assoc-amazon.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=0060005718&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=becaofisaa-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=becaofisaa-20&l=as2&o=1&a=0060005718" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0060005718/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0060005718&linkCode=as2&tag=becaofisaa-20">The Brewmaster's Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=becaofisaa-20&l=as2&o=1&a=0060005718" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<br />
I am not a food snob; I am a foodie. I am not a beer snob; I am a beer connoisseur. Food and beer snobs will turn down food that doesn't meet their preconceived ideas of quality, which is often only what they read in an expensive magazine. A foodie will eat just about anything once, and the same is true of a beer connoisseur. However, we foodies and beer connoisseurs still truly appreciate quality food and drink. We just don't care if it made the cover of <em>Food and Wine</em>. <br />
<br />
It is with this mindset that I review this book. <em>The Brewmaster's Table</em> by Garrett Oliver (the brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery), is an absolute must read for anyone who appreciates good food and beer. It provides a great history and explanation of all the world's major styles of beer, which to be honest, has been done before in many other books. But what makes this book unique, and why I use this book as a reference quite frequently, is that Garret Oliver provides recommendations for pairing food with each of the styles of beer he describes. He dives into the reasoning behind food and beer pairing so that we can understand why the beer goes so well with a particular food or style of food. <br />
<br />
Any book that makes me want to go out and experiment with whatever the author is writing about is a success. This book has inspired me to experiment well over a dozen times already, and I think a lot more experimenting is in store.<br />
<br />
One specific subject that this books addresses, and an area I have struggled with for some time, is what beverage to serve with Indian and other Asian meals. Wine is a poor fit, although I have had some success with champagne. I try to avoid soft drinks in all circumstances. Water works well, but is boring. Beer is what is left over, but as it turns out, stands out as a clear front runner. No drink, other than certain styles of beer, come anywhere close to matching the flavor profiles or offering a distinct but complimentary contrast of flavors to these foods. For these precious recommendations alone the book was worthwhile. <br />
<br />
Fortunately, the book offers way more than just that. As it turns out, almost every food and style of cooking has an almost perfect pairing (or two or three) with a style of beer (or two or three). I am a wine drinker as well, and I really enjoy wine, but when it comes to matching food with drink, wine has nothing on beer. Sure, a classic American-Italian dinner has a great pairing in almost any table red wine. A juicy ribeye pairs great with a Syrah or Cab. But you can also drink beer with these meals as well. But what about everything else? What about a barbeque with hamburgers and hotdogs and spicy ribs? What about fish and chips. What about all the other foods people eat that just don't really work with wine? This book has the answer. Don't believe me? Read this book. Experiment for yourself, and you will see.<br />
<br />
This book is yet another highly recommended read.<br />
John K (Temperate Climate Permaculture)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01349177939122793240noreply@blogger.com7