Showing posts with label Recipes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recipes. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

My New Sauerkraut

My new sauerkraut
I wish my good computer was working so I could color correct this photo. This kraut almost glows in the dark it is so bright pink, and the taste is fantastic!


I recently wrote about my first attempt at making sauerkraut. That sauerkraut was good, but the kraut I made next was really, really good. It was made with one head of green cabbage, one head of red cabbage, one apple, one tablespoon of caraway seeds, and about three tablespoons of salt. I let it ferment for about 5 days at room temperature, it gave a moderate amount of bubbling, and turned a brilliant, bright pink. The taste is amazing. Perfectly sour. Tart but not overpowering. Subtle sweetness and with a hint of caraway. I love it. If you like sauerkraut, then give this one a try.

Monday, August 20, 2012

Making Sauerkraut

 Sauerkraut just waiting to be made!

I have to be honest. When I was a kid, sauerkraut was one of the most disgusting things I ever could imagine eating. My dad would eat it on occasion, but I could barely stand the sight of it let alone the smell. Now I was a fairly picky eater. This was partially my own fault, but it was partially how we ate as a family. We ate pretty healthy foods, but we did not eat a wide variety of foods. If my mom would have brought in a bunch of new foods, the chances of us eating them would have been awfully slim.

Fast forward a few decades and I eat everything. I started trying new foods on a regular basis after I started living on my own and started cooking for myself. Now there is not really any food or drink that I will not eat. Well, I take that back. Goat head stew. That is one meal I will never eat... again. I did eat it once, and that was enough. So other than goat head stew, I will eat anything.

I decided to try sauerkraut again a few years ago when I was in Germany. I thought that if anyone could make sauerkraut the right way, if there was any chance that I would overcome my sauerkraut aversion, than it would have to be in Germany. Sauerkraut was offered in every restaurant and deli that I entered. With so many people eating sauerkraut so often, I needed to see what I had been missing. As it turns out, I was missing a lot. There are hundreds of varieties of sauerkraut, all with that characteristic and wonderful sour, tangy flavor which turns out to be the product of lactic acid fermentation.

After getting settled here in the Azores, I finally got up the nerve to try my hand at making sauerkraut. I ferment beer and apple cider, why not cabbage?

As it so happens, making sauerkraut is extremely simple. All you really need is some cabbage and some salt. That's it. I made mine slightly more complicated by adding carrots and onion. The photo at the top shows everything I used.

So here it is. This is the method I used:
  1. Chop cabbage up into 1/8-1/4 inch ribbons (like you are making cole slaw).
  2. Chop the onions the same way - I chopped my even thinner
  3. Shred the carrots
  4. Sprinkle on some salt - roughly 3 tablespoons is what I used for 2 heads of cabbage
  5. Put everything into a large bowl
  6. Mash it all up with your hands... I mean really grab some handfuls and squeeze the juice out of it, literally. Just crush it as much as you can over and over and over, mixing everything up as you go.
  7. Eventually, you will be accumulating fluid at the bottom of the bowl, this is the goal, this is your natural "brine"
  8. Put the cabbage mixture and brine into a crock or large mouth jar.
  9. Press the cabbage down firmly and repeatedly until the brine covers the mix.
  10. Place a smaller plate or lid on top of the cabbage to keep it covered.
  11. Place a weight of some sort (jar of water, ziplock bag of water, clean rock, etc.) on top of the plate. This keeps the cabbage all submerged under the brine.
  12. Taste it every few days. You'll need to repack the sauerkraut everytime you take out a sample, but this takes less than a minute.

The first few days, this sauerkraut was not great. It wasn't bad, but it tasted more like a soggy coleslaw. Then within about a week, the fermentation really got going. There was a layer of frothy bubbles pouring out from the sides of the plate I was using to keep the cabbage submerged. Underneath was a tangy, crunchy, pretty darn good sauerkraut. I am really excited to see how this matures over the next few weeks to months.

Monday, August 13, 2012

Pineapple, Port, & Fig Sauce

The figs from my garden.

As my harvest of figs is reaching a peak, and I am able to pick from six to ten fresh figs per day, I am really able to experiment and create new recipes for fresh figs. Here is the latest one with two thumbs up from the wife.

Pineapple, Port, & Fig Sauce
A savory sweet sauce to be used over meats.

10 Fresh Figs, skin trimmed away (see note below for variety)
1 Cup Chopped Pineapple (fresh is best, but an 8 oz can with liquid will work)
1 Cup Ruby Port
1/2 Cup Red Wine Vinegar
1/2 Cup Rice Wine Vinegar
1/2 Cup Honey
1 Small Red Onion, chopped
1/2 Cup Chicken Broth or Stock (homemade is best, but use what you have)
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
2 Tablespoons fresh Cilantro, chopped
Salt
Pepper
Optional - Hot Sauce (use as much as you like, but don't overpower it)
  1. Heat olive oil in pan and sautee onions until just beginning to brown.
  2. Add chicken stock and simmer until liquid is reduced by half.
  3. Pour into bowl and set aside.
  4. Add port and vinegars to pan and bring to a boil.
  5. Continue boiling until liquid is reduced by half; this will take about 10 minutes.
  6. Add the figs, pineapples, and honey.
  7. Simmer until the liquid has reduced a bit and fruit is cooked through.
  8. Add the reserved chicken stock and onions (and hot sauce if you want).
  9. Simmer until the liquid has reduced and the sauce has thickened to the consistency you want.
  10. When cooled to room temperature, add the chopped cilantro.
Just a fraction of the varieties of figs... pleasantly overwhelming!


NOTE: There are so many fig species and varieties out there. It really doesn't matter what kind you use. I have no idea of the kind of fig growing in my garden. All I know is it tastes really good. Fresh figs are vastly different than the more commonly available dried figs. Fresh figs have a tropical flavor, kind of a mix between peaches and strawberries... at least mine do. Some figs have a deeper, more rich flavor; it seems the dark or purple figs are like this. Others are lighter, more tropical. It just depends. Experimenting is fun!



Tuesday, June 26, 2012

A Brief Intro to Dovecotes and Raising Doves and Pigeons

A Dovecote at Oxwich Castle, Wales, United Kingdom - dating to mid 1500's

A dovecote (pronounced: “DOVE-coat”) is also known as a columbaria ("co-lum-BEAR-ee-uh") or pigeonaire ("pigeon-AIR").
 
 
A dovecote is simply a house for doves or pigeons. I have seen a few of these in person, but the only ones I ever saw that were currently in use were in Turkey. Historically, doves and pigeons were kept as primary food sources throughout Europe, the Middle East, and North Africa. The earliest dovecotes are thought to be in Egypt and Iran. I am strongly considering adding a dovecote in my yard.
 
 
 Dovecote at La Providence Wine Farm, Franschhoek Valley, in South Africa's wine country.
So the big question is why would anyone want one? My three answers are Meat, Eggs, and Manure.

Meat
Young pigeon and dove meat is called “squab” in the culinary world. It is considered a delicacy. Moist and rich, squab is all dark meat. The skin is more fatty (like duck) than chicken, and the meat is less fatty (more lean) than domesticated chicken. I have had squab on a few occasions, and I have had friends who have eaten squab in many places around the world. I have not met anyone who has tried squab who has not really liked it. This is a great tasting bird!

Squab with Porcini Mushrooms... my mouth is watering!
Eggs
Pigeon and Dove eggs can really vary in size. However, for rough size comparisons... a medium-large pigeon/dove egg is about half the size of a medium chicken egg and double the size of a quail egg. Pigeon eggs are not nearly as common as quail eggs, but could easily be substituted in any recipe. For any eggs calling for chicken eggs, pigeon/dove eggs could be used as a unique ingredient. I admit that I have not tasted pigeon/dove eggs... yet. I enjoy cooking and eating quail eggs, and I imagine that these eggs are quite similar, just larger.
The Scotch eggs use quail egg, but pigeon/dove eggs could easily be substituted.
Manure
Pigeon manure has a long history of being collected for fertilizer and for use in making gunpowder. The only information I could find places pigeon/dove manure at a NPK ratio of 4:2:1. This was (roughly) consistent from multiple sources, so I will run with it. This compares fairly well to chicken manure. Just like chicken manure, pigeon/dove manure should be considered "hot" (i.e. high in nitrogen in too raw a form) and should age, perferably in a compost pile, for a few months before applying it to growing plants.
Some modern dovecote designs.
Quick Facts:
  • Pigeons and Doves belong to the Columbidae Family.
  • The Rock Dove or Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) is the “common” pigeon seen in cities.
  • The Domestic Pigeon (Columba livia f. domestica) was developed from the Rock Dove.
  • There are many species of wild and many varieties of domestic doves and pigeons, each with different squab and egg sizes.
  • Pigeons developed primarily for meat at called Utility Breeds.
  • Common Utility Breeds are: King, American Giant Runt, French Mondain
  • Pigeons and Doves form mating pairs (one male and one female), and they care for their young themselves - no human intervention required!
  • A breeding pair can produce 10-15 squabs per year.
  • Doves and Pigeons can live and produce young for over 10 years, there are some that have lived for over 30 years!
  • If there are sufficient food sources surrounding the dovecote, there is no supplement feeding needed.
  • Squabs reach adult size, but cannot yet fly, at about 4 weeks. This is when they are slaughtered.
  • Weight at slaughter is about 0.5 pounds (0.2 kg) in a traditional (no supplement feeding) operation, but can increase up to 1.3 pounds (0.6 kg) in a high-input, industrial operation.

The King Pigeon is a common bred developed for meat.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Cauliflower Leaves are Edible!


I recently posted this photo of a head of cauliflower from my garden right before I harvested it. This  plant has continued to grow very well. It's not uncommon for the plant to push up one or a few smaller heads after the main head has been harvested, so I have let it stay in the garden. However, the other day I was out in the garden and I was amazed at how large the leaves of that cauliflower had grown.  You can see in this photo...

My cauliflower leaves are huge!

I started thinking, "What a waste of a plant to harvest just the flower buds!" Then I remembered Permaculture Principle Six: Produce No Waste. I thought the leaves will be a great addition to the compost pile... but then I wondered, "Can you eat them?"

A quick Google search later and I found out that, sure enough, cauliflower leaves are indeed edible! Apparently they can be used like any other green from the garden (collards, kale, beets, turnip, etc.). So I took one leaf... one really large leaf as you can see in the photo above... it was just over 3 feet (1 meter) long! I cut out the thick center rib and only used half for an omelet.

Ingredients: one half leaf cauliflower, one slice of bacon, 2 eggs, black pepper.

One rough chopped half cauliflower leaf sauteed with one slice bacon, rough chopped.

Two whisked eggs and black pepper added when greens were cooked through in 3-4 minutes.

The finished bacon and cauliflower leaf omelet!

So the big question... how did it taste?  Really good!  It tasted like a firmer (in a good way) cooked green like collards. Similar to kale without that faint earthy taste kale often has. I have since made a half cauliflower leaf, half brussels sprout dish that was fantastic as well... and my sometimes picky wife really enjoyed it as well. I am truly surprised that this is not a more common food... and I am thrilled that I have so much of it still left in my garden!


Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Fruit Leather

Fruit Leathers are a traditional method of preserving a fruit harvest.

I recently got a great, brief question from a reader, Kyan:
"Would you be willing to do a post on fruit leather? I've never heard of it before."


If you've ever eaten a "Fruit Roll-Up", as many kids in the U.S. have, then you are familiar with the idea of a Fruit Leather... even if you've never heard the name.  Although making your own is significantly healthier than the store bought, mass-produced variety; plus it's a lot of fun, and kids (and grown-up kids) love them!

If you look online there are literally hundreds of recipes for making Fruit Leather, but they all involve the same process...

Thicker Fruit Leathers take longer to dehydrate.

Instructions for Making Fruit Leather

  1. Obtain the freshest, ripest fruit possible.
  2. Clean the fruit if needed.
  3. Cut up the fruit if needed. Discard bruised or damaged areas.
  4. Optional Step - Add a color stabilizer. The most natural is lemon or lime juice, but some people make a liquid dip from a mixture of water and ascorbic acid crystals (easily purchased at large grocery stores). Fruit chunks are allowed to soak for about 5 minutes. This step is used for apples, apricots, pears, and peaches.
  5. Puree the fruit in a blender - may need to add a small amount of water so the fruit blends well and the puree pours well. The texture should be close to applesauce. 
  6. Optional Step - Strain the puree. This gives a smoother texture, but also removes some of the fiber and nutrients from the puree.
  7. Optional Step - Add a sweetener. I think honey is the healthiest, plus it gives a good texture. Plain table sugar can be used, but it can give the Fruit Leather a granular (almost crunchy) texture. Concentrated fruit juice can also be used - this can be store bought or homemade by heating fresh fruit juice over low heat for a long time until a large portion of the water evaporates, and you are left with a very sweet, thick sauce.
  8. Pour the puree onto a flat surface for drying. This is where things can vary tremendously.  See Drying Methods below. The thickness of the poured puree should be about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) thick. Try to keep the puree about an inch (2.5 cm) from the edge as it will spread as it dries.
  9. Remove the dried Fruit Leather, cut to size if needed, roll up or store flat in a clean, dry location (a paper bag works well, but fruit leathers can be frozen.
  10. Fruit Leathers will store for three weeks at room temperature, three months in a refrigerator, or up to a year if frozen.

Dehydrators or Ovens can be used to dry the fruit puree.

Drying Methods for Fruit Leather

  • NOTE - drying times can vary significantly on the method used, the consistency of the puree and the types of fruits used. It is recommended that you begin checking your Fruit Leather after the first 2-3 hours of drying. 
  • Dehydrator - this is the easiest method. The puree is poured onto plastic sheets provided with the dehydrator. If your dehydrator does not have the plastic sheets, then a layer of plastic wrap will work fine. 
  • Oven - this method works just as well, but may take a little experimentation to get it just right. Place plastic wrap on a cookie sheet. Pour the puree on the plastic wrap covering the cookie sheet. If you wet the cookie sheet a little, the plastic will stay in place on the cookie sheet better. Place the oven on its lowest setting, and crack the oven door open - this is very important as it lets the moist air escape. Ideal temperature is 100 F (37 C). Most ovens cannot be set that low, so just set the oven to the lowest setting, and watch the drying fruit - higher temps will dry faster. 
                    - At 100 F (37 C) it will take about 12-16 hours.
                    - At 150 F (65 C) it will take about 8-10 hours.


A beautiful raspberry Fruit Leather

This is the very basic method for making Fruit Leathers. As I said, there are many, many recipes online that include spices (cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, ginger, vanilla, etc.), chopped fruit with the puree (raisins, dates, dried apricots, dried coconut, etc.), or other random ingredients (peanut butter, chopped nuts, pumpkin, yogurt, etc.), and even brandy or liqueur (uh... not for most kids) can be added to the puree. The variations are almost endless, and the results are delicious!


Friday, December 23, 2011

Permaculture Plants: Goji Berry (Wolfberry)

The small Goji Berry is the "new" superfood.
Photo used with permission from Goji Grow. 
Goji Grow is a UK company that sells goji berry plants!
Check them out here: http://gojigrow.com/

Common Name: Goji Berry, Wolfberry
Scientific Name: Lycium barbarum, Lycium chinense
Family: Solanaceae (nightshade)

Goji Berries are only 1-2 cm (0.4-0.8 inches) long.

Description:
Goji Berry (Wolfberry) plants are medium-sized, deciduous shrubs with small purple/blue flowers that produce small  red fruit (1-2 cm).  There are two very closely related species (Lycium barbarum, Lycium chinense).  I have had dried goji berries on a few occasions.  They remind me of raisins.  They have a bit of a nutty flavor reminiscent of a tart dried cherry.  I have also had goji berry juice (it was blended with apple juice), and it had a rather tropical flavor to it.  Quite good.

Lycium barbarum 
From the book by Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thomé Flora von Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz 1885, Gera, Germany

History:
Goji Berries, Wolfberries, Matrimony Vine, Red Medlar, Duke of Argyll's Tea Tree... all names used to describe this plant over many years.  Recently, it has become known as a "superfood" due to its high antioxidant levels, but it has been cultivated for thousands of years around the world, especially in China.  Even though it is a "new" plant to the western world, it was grown as early as the 1700's in the UK.

Trivia:
  • Named the "Wolfberry" likely due to confusion about the scientific name... "Lycos" means "wolf" in Greek.  "Lycium" means "originating from Lycia", a region in modern day Turkey.
  • It is said that if held in the hands for too long, the fruit can oxidize and develop black spots.  It may just be that the fruit bruises easily.
  • Are fairly wind and salt tolerant.
  • Are fairly drought tolerant one established.
  • Recently ranked number one on the ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) Scale... used to rank foods with the healthy antioxidants (compounds that destroy free radicals that cause cancer and aging).
  • Some reports that it may interfere with the metabolism of warfarin (Coumadin) and make the blood more "thin", i.e. increase the risk of bleeding.  However, this should not be an issue for a person not on this medicine.

Dried Goji Berries is likely how we will see if for sale.  
We'll need to grow it ourselves if we want them fresh.

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Fresh eating
  • Dried (can be dried whole in a dehydrator)

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
  • Young shoots are edible - use as a cooked green
  • Leaves are edible - use as a cooked green
  • Wine, Beer
  • Teas
  • Jellies
  • Soil stabilization plant
  • Informal hedge plant

Harvesting: Pick when ripe; typically mid-Autumn (harvest before the first frost); many people just shake the plant, and the ripe fruit will drop (lay out a sheet under the plant first)
Storage: Fresh fruit does not last long

Small, pretty flower of the Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum)

The deciduous leaves of the Goji Berry

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 6-9 (some sources say 2-7)
Chill Requirement: Likely will produce better with some chill, but no information available

Plant Type: Medium-sized Shrub
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Shrub
Cultivars/Varieties: Over 80 varieties available.

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile
Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 2-3 years
Years to Maximum Bearing: 4-5 years
Years of Useful Life: No good information available

The Goji Berry is not a typical specimen, or centerpiece, plant, but it is well worth its less than beautiful growing form.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 6-10 feet (2-3 meters) tall and wide
Growth Rate: Medium

These Almond Goji Berry Truffles look amazing!

A fantastic video on Goji Berries and how to use them in the kitchen.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade (up to 80%,
Moisture: Medium to Low - often prefers sandier soils... soils that do not hold much water.  They don't like wet roots.

Propagation:  By seed.  Shoot tips can root where they touch the ground.

Maintenance:
Minimal.  May need to prune back arching tips to prevent the plant from spreading.

Concerns:
There are some reports of stomach upset when eating the uncooked parts of the plant.


Monday, December 19, 2011

Cheese Making: Queso Blanco

Queso Blanco - one of the most simple cheeses to make at home

Queso blanco, literally white cheese, is about the simplest cheese we can make.  Whole milk is heated to just below boiling.  An acidifying agent is added.  The milk curdles.  The curds are drained.  That's it.

We end up with a very mild, soft, crumbly/creamy cheese that can be used in a wide variety of dishes.  Some say that the taste is rather bland, like hard tofu, because there is no sharp tang that is characteristic of aged cheeses, but I prefer to say that it is very mild.  It is almost the exact same thing as Indian paneer, but paneer (or panir) is usually pressed at the end of the cheese making process to yield a firmer end product.  Much like paneer and tofu, queso blanco will take on the flavor of the oils and foods with which it is cooked.

Queso blanco lends itself well as a topping to Mexican and Spanish dishes, especially if they are spicy (hot).  It can also be used crumbled over soups and salads, the latter being how I use it the most. 

Queso blanco does not melt well, but only softens with heat.  This is why I can sauté it in a little olive oil and garlic and sprinkled with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Served as is and still warm, served over a piece of toasted bread, or added to a salad or Indian dish, it is quite versatile.  How about wrapped in bacon and baked in the oven?  Delicious! 

So, how is it made?  Here's my recipe:

Only two ingredients... whole milk and apple cider vinegar!

Gather your ingredients...

1 Gallon Milk
1/4 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar

I use one gallon of whole cow's milk.  You can use milk from a goat, sheep, buffalo, or I would guess any other mammal (anything with nipples!); however, I think the cheese may then have a different name, as queso blanco is a traditional Spanish cheese of cow's milk.  It can be unpasteurized or pasteurized.  I have been told that ultra pasteurized will not work, but I have never tried it to know.

Second, and finally, you need an acidifying agent.  I have always used apple cider vinegar; however, you can use any vinegar, lime juice, lemon juice, even yogurt... just about anything that is acidic and edible.  I use one quarter cup apple cider vinegar.  Others will just add a tablespoon or two, wait a few minutes, and if it is not curdling, add another tablespoon, wait, and so on...

These are the only ingredients.  Told you it was simple!

Sterilizing the cheesecloth in boiling water.

Gather your tools...

Sterile cheesecloth.  I will reuse cheesecloth numerous times if I can clean it well from previous uses.  This takes a bit of time and some water, but it is not too bad.  I will sterilize the cheesecloth by placing it in a pan of boiling water (as seen in the photo above), putting a lid on it, and letting it sit until I am ready to use it.

Pan or pot.  Make sure it is large enough to hold the milk you want to use.  The pan should not be aluminum or cast iron, but stainless steel or enamel works great.

A colander or another heat resistant bowl.  I will take the warm (not burning) cheesecloth and line a colander with it.  I pour the hot curds and whey into this in preparation for draining the curds.  

Thermometer.  Not necessary, but it makes the process a whole lot easier.  I use a $10 dial thermometer with a long probe that reads from 0-220 F (-18 - 104 C).  It has a simple clip that keeps it in the milk but not touching the bottom - hands free!

A spoon.  I use a wooden spoon.

That's it!

Bringing the milk up to the right temperature.  Stir frequently!

The process...

  • Slowly bring the milk to 175-180 F (80-82 C) over medium to medium-high heat.  This can take 30-40 minutes if you do it right.  If you do not have a thermometer, you are trying to bring it to a simmer without letting it boil.  Reduce the heat or carefully move the pan off the heat if the temperature gets too high too fast.
  • Stir the milk frequently - stir more frequently as the mils gets hotter to avoid scorching the milk.  This will give a burnt taste to the cheese, and cleaning a pot with burnt milk is a major hassle.
  • Once the temperature is in range, I will try to keep it there for between 5-10 minutes.  I am not sure of the exact process that takes place at this temperature range and time frame, but when I have not done this, it seems to take a long time for the curds to form.
  • Add the acidifying agent slowly and stir thoroughly, keeping the milk on the heat.
  • Within a few moments to minutes, curds will begin to form.  The curds will look like little balls of white - different shapes and sizes.  The remaining liquid is the whey, and it is cloudy yellowish-gray/green.
  • Keep stirring slowly.  I will turn off the stove at this point.
  • I slowly stir for a few more minutes until I am sure the acidifying agent has been mixed through all the milk.
  • Remove the thermometer.
  • Carefully pour the curds and whey through the cheesecloth lined colander.
  • Tie the corners of the cheesecloth together.
  • Lift the bag of curds up and hang it over a pan to drain.  This is where the name "Bag Cheese" originates.
  • Let drain for 3-5 hrs, until there is no more dripping.
  • Carefully remove the cheese ball from the cheesecloth and use or refrigerate immediately.  Queso blanco is not a long lasting cheese.  I've heard it said that it will last as long as the milk you used would have lasted.  This is typically a week or two at the most.
  • Yields about 1 lb (16 oz / 0.45 kg) of cheese


The first signs of curdling occurs within a few minutes of adding the apple cider vinegar.

Shortly after curdling starts, the pot is a mass of cheese curdles.

The drained cheese curds sitting in a colander.

Draining the curds.  You can collect the whey for making other cheeses.

The cheese immediately after being removed from the cheesecloth.

The finished product!
This is the same hunk of cheese in the photo above... it's just flipped over and showing its "pretty" side.

Enjoy this simple and delicious cheese.  May it open doors to other cheese making adventures.


Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Recipes for Duck Leftovers... Rendered Duck Fat, Plum Duck Barbecue, Smokey Duck Liver Pate, Duck Omelette Asparagus Wraps, and Sauteed Veggies



Rendered Duck Fat 
(room temp at top and refrigerated at bottom)

The main food item I wanted to procure from my duck, after the meat of course, was the fat.  Rendered duck fat has long been cherished as a flavorful fat with which to cook.  It is a great fat to saute vegetables or mix into pie crusts instead of butter.  In reality, duck fat is much closer (health-wise) to olive oil than butter or beef fat.  It stores for months in the refrigerator and can be frozen for even longer.  The top photo is the rendered duck fat at room temperature - it's liquid.  The photo below that is  the rendered duck fat just removed from the refrigerator - it's a soft solid.  Treat it just like butter or lard or cooking oil.

I collected my rendered duck fat from the drip pan under the duck as it smoked.  I poured all the drippings into a 2 cup glass measuring cup.  The liquid fat formed a very distinct layer that I siphoned off with a turkey baster.  I left a bit of good fat in the cup so I didn't bring along any of the non-fat liquids.  Typically, rendered duck fat is much lighter in color.  Mine is darker due to the smoking process.  The flavor reflects that as well.  There is a smokey flavor added to the richness of the natural fat.  I keep this small ramekin in the refrigerator covered in plastic wrap.  I just take a spoonful or two whenever I want to add some rich, smokey flavor to some sauteed veggies.  Indulgent!  

Plum Duck Barbecue

This dish got me into quite a bit of trouble with my wife.  I made some great, savory plum sauce that I served with the original smoked ducks.  I ended up with too much left over, and I thought to myself that if I reduced it for a bit, it would likely make a thick, sweet, savory barbecue-like sauce.  Well, I also had the left over giblets and necks that I did not use the day before when I smoked the ducks.  So I simmered the hearts, gizzards, and necks in a saucepan of water with some thyme, pepper, salt, and I think a rough chopped carrot, until the meat was very tender.  I then picked the meat off the necks and chopped the heart and gizzard into small pieces.  This was mixed into the reduced sauce and a great barbecue style dish was created.  I served it with warm rolls, and we made mini duck barbecue sandwiches.  

After the meal, when I told my wife how glad I was to be able to use so many parts of the birds and explained to her how... well, she was not too happy.  She told me that she would prefer not to eat neck.  I told her that I think she has been too removed from whence her food comes.  She gave me the look.  I think I will tell my wife before she eats neck in the future.

Smokey Duck Liver Pate

I had two duck livers sitting there that were begging to be made into a pate.  I had never made pate, but I thought I would give it a try.  I sauteed the livers in a bit of the rendered duck fat over medium heat with a shot of Bowmore Single Malt Scotch.  I then placed the livers and cooking liquids into a food processor with some garlic, salt, pepper, a splash of heavy cream, and a little bit of thyme.  This was pureed until smooth, poured into a flat dish, and allowed to cool.  It was served with toasted croissants.  Very rich and savory.  Quite good for my first attempt if I say so myself! 

Duck Omelette Asparagus Wraps

I love to find creative ways to use up all my leftovers.  This is a great example.  We ended up with a small pile of duck meat that was cleaned off the bones after the carving was done.  With a turkey or chicken, I love to use this to make turkey or chicken salad sandwiches.  Smoked duck salad sandwiches just didn't sound that good to me.  That was when I thought of this omelet idea.  I lightly sauteed the chopped duck meat in a frying pan with a bit of olive oil and the rendered duck fat.  I then added one whisked egg, flipping once, until cooked through.  We also had a few grilled asparagus spears remaining from the night before, and these I wrapped in the omelet.  Easily a meal unto itself.

Radishes from my garden

Finally, with no more duck meat left, all I had remaining was my rendered duck fat.  Fresh from my garden I chopped these radishes and sauteed them a spoonful of the fat.  The smokey richness of the duck fat with the spicy, crisp radishes was a great flavor combination.

So, there you have it.  This is how I like to use my leftovers.  Entirely.  And with the sense that the leftover is not a leftover, but a primary goal in cooking the dish in the first place.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Permaculture Plants: Mulberry

Red Mulberry (Morus rubra)
Great photo from Missouri Permaculture 
Note how the "red" mulberry fruit really turns dark purple when ripe.

Common Name: Mulberry (Black, Red, and White)
Scientific Name: Morus species (M. nigra, M. rubra, M. alba)
Family: Moraceae
Black Mulberry (Morus nigra)
The "typical" Black Mulberry fruit will mature from green to whitish-pink to red to deep purple-black.

White Mulberry (Morus alba)
This is actually a variety of the White Mulberry tree - The Russian Mulberry (M. alba var tatarica)

Description:
Mulberry Trees are large trees that produce fruit that resemble a blackberry, but the fruit doesn't taste much like a blackberry.  There are about 15 Morus species and many more hybrids, but the three most common species (the Black, Red, and White) have ripe fruits that typically develop the color of their name... the Black Mulberry has dark purple, almost back fruit; the Red Mulberry has reddish fruit that will ripen to deep purple; the White Mulberry has green, unripe fruit that will turn white when ripe.  However, there are varieties of all these trees that have a range of fruit colors.  It is said that the Black Mulberry has the best flavor, and the White has the worst (or least best) flavor.  I would have to agree.  Black Mulberry fruit is delicious, especially the improved cultivars.  They are sweet and tart and taste like... well, mulberries.  I was not a fan of the White Mulberry fruit that grew in my backyard when I lived in Kentucky.  It was quite bland, and that is the reputation that it typically holds by most eaters.  Most White Mulberries are used for the leaves, to feed silkworms, and it is not really raised for its fruit.

The Mulberry Tree in Autumn, c. 1889 - Vincent Van Gogh

History:
Black Mulberry Trees (M. Nigra) are native to southwest Asia.  It has been cultivated for thousands of years in that area.  Red Mulberry Trees (M. rubra) are native to eastern North America and was used quite a bit by the native population.  White Mulberry Trees (M. alba) is native to northern China and has been cultivated for thousands of years to feed silkworms.  Many varieties and hybrids have been developed for improved flavor, increased production, and higher yields of fruit.

Trivia:
The Tale of Pyramus and Thisbe (as told by wikipedia):
In the Ovidian version, Pyramus and Thisbe is the story of two lovers in the city of Babylon who occupy connected houses/walls, forbidden by their parents to be wed, because of their parents' rivalry. Through a crack in one of the walls, they whisper their love for each other. They arrange to meet near at Ninus' tomb under a white mulberry tree and state their feelings for each other. Thisbe arrives first, but upon seeing a lioness with a mouth bloody from a recent kill, she flees, leaving behind her veil. The lioness drinks from a nearby fountain, then by chance mutilates the veil Thisbe had left behind. When Pyramus arrives, he is horrified at the sight of Thisbe's veil, assuming that a fierce beast had killed her. Pyramus kills himself, falling on his sword in proper Roman fashion, and in turn splashing blood on the white mulberry leaves. Pyramus' blood stains the white mulberry fruits, turning them dark. Thisbe returns, eager to tell Pyramus what had happened to her, but she finds Pyramus' dead body under the shade of the mulberry tree. Thisbe, after a brief period of mourning, stabs herself with the same sword. In the end, the gods listen to Thisbe's lament, and forever change the colour of the mulberry fruits into the stained colour to honour the forbidden love. (according to Roman mythology, this is how the red mulberry tree was created)

A plate of mulberries - fruit can range from about 1 inch (2.5 cm) to over 3 inches (8 cm) long

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Fresh eating (fruit)
  • Leaves - cooked (used like grape leaves to wrap foods, can be used like cooked greens, just discard the water in which you cook the leaves)
  • Baked goods (pies, tarts)
  • Dried
  • Murrey (a fruit puree eaten as a pudding or cooked with meat)
  • Jams, Preserves
  • Ice Creams
  • Wine, Cordials
  • Teas

Secondary Uses:
  • Food for wildlife, especially birds.
  • Food for domestic poultry.
  • Can be coppiced for fuel (wood), food (leaves), or crafts (twigs); 1-4 year cycle is typical
  • Windbreak (only the Russian Mulberry, M. alba var tatarica)
  • Food source for the cultivation of silkworms
  • Traditional medicinal uses - reported that mulberry root may help tapeworm, and a lot of fruit or the inner bark of the tree can both be used as a laxative (this information has not been verified)

Yield: 5-25 lbs per tree
Harvesting: August-September.  Pick as the fruits ripen - they will not all ripen at the same time.  Sheets can be laid down and the tree given a good shake.  The ripe fruits will drop easily.

Storage: Fresh fruit only keeps for a few days.  The fruits can be dried.  The fruits also freeze well.

Male and Female Mulberry Flowers
Male flower stalks (long and thin) and female flower stalks (short and round) will often form on the same tree - making it self-fertile.  However, cross-pollination from another mulberry will typically provide greater yields.

Mulberry leaves have a lot of variability - even in the same tree.

Young Red Mulberry tree bark

Older Red Mulberry tree bark

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9
AHS Heat Zone: 9-4
Chill Requirement: 300-500 hours/units depending on the species and variety

Plant Type: Medium Trees
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree
Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available.

Pollination: 
Many are Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile, but most will produce greater yields if allowed to cross pollinate

Flowering: Late Spring (will not be effected by frost)

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 5-15 years (can be as little as 2 years for some varieties, but will need a few more years to get to maximum production)
Years of Useful Life: M. rubra (less than 75 years), M. alba (150 years), M. nigra (300+ years!)

Mulberry Tree in autumn

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 30-60 feet (9-18 meters) tall and wide
Roots: taproot or heart-shaped root pattern (a number of main roots all spreading out and down)
Growth Rate: Fast

Illustration of Red Mulberry - Charles Sprague Sargent

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%)
Moisture: Medium, however some species/varieties can handle drier soils
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0); M. rubra can handle more alkaline soils (to 8.5)

Special Considerations for Growing: 
Branches can be brittle, so some protection may be needed from the wind.  M. alba tolerates juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives).  Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.

Propagation:
Can root from softwood cuttings taken in the summer. Seeds need at 13-16 weeks stratification for germination

Maintenance:
Young trees are susceptible to slugs and snails.  Once established, very little maintenance is needed.  If pruning, do so in early summer.  Trim away dead branches for aesthetic reasons or prune branches to minimize branch overcrowding.  Few pests.

Concerns:
  • Fruits can be messy - avoid planting trees near driveways and sidewalks/walkways
  • Can spread easily by seed - usually by birds
  • Some people are allergic to the pollen - seasonal allergies
  • Some people are sensitive to the milky sap - contact dermatitis
  • Poisonous – In some species, the unripe fruit and leaves can cause stomach upset at best and hallucinations at worst
Stuffed Mulberry Leaves - here's a recipe! (click on the link below)

Black and White Mulberry Ricotta Tart - here's a recipe! (click on the link below)