Permaculture Plants: Wisteria

Wisteria can be a stunning addition to your garden.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yAcYbUaI2wI/T3w-5D94ulI/AAAAAAAAAHA/Re_iuVudi_g/s1600/36834591.jpg

Common Name: Wisteria

Scientific Name: Wisteria species
Family: Fabaceae (the Legume, Pea, or Bean family)

Can you think of a better way to beautify a chain-link fence?

http://www.creatorspalette.com/ShrubsVines/Wisteria/Wisteria-sinensis-Texas-White/P3240070/215528036_ed7Ah-L.jpg

Common Species:
Japanese Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) – often with a Concord grape-like scent
American Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) – typically not very fragrant
Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya) – typically not very fragrant
Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) – most fragrant, often a Concord grape-like scent
Silky Wisteria (Wisteria venusta) – largest flowers, fragrant

Wonderful Wisteria privacy screen.

http://summergenji.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/wisteria-blossoms.jpg

Description:

This beautiful, large woody vine is famous for its large, and sometimes fragrant, racemes (pendulous cluster of flowers) in purples, pinks, and white. However, this fast growing vine also puts nitrogen back into the soil and attracts many beneficial insects to the garden. A standout for the Forest Garden.

Wisteria

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m59dcn0nyy1qgzqeto1_1280.jpg

History:
There are 10 species of Wisteria that are native to eastern North America and Asia (China, Korea, and Japan), but because of its showy flowers, it has been introduced all over the world.

Trivia:

• The world’s largest Wisteria vine is in California, planted in 1894, and measures more than 1 acre (0.40 ha) in size!
• Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) flowers were cured with sugr and mixed with flower to make a delicacy called “Teng Lo” – I have yet to find the recipe for this

Wisteria's abundant flowers attract bees and other beneficial insects.

http://farm1.staticflickr.com/196/513920704_65c170266d_z.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Ornamental
• Edible Parts: There are many reports that the entire plant contains a toxic substance (a glycoside); however, there are only a few reports in the medical literature (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8433406). There are also many reports of traditional cultures, especially in Asia, that eat many parts of this plant. It is quite likely that heat destroys this toxic compound. Here is a great article on Wisteria from Green Dean of Eat the Weeds (http://www.eattheweeds.com/wisteria-criteria-2/). Until I find more reliable information one way or the other, I’m not going to be eating a lot of Wisteria, but I am dying to try some Wisteria Fritters… I’ll let you know when I do.
• Flowers -  washed and boiled or battered and fried into fritters.
• Seeds - cooked or baked. Baked Japanese Wisteria seeds are said to have a taste similar to chestnuts.
• Leaves – young, tender leaves are cooked and eaten, and may be used as a tea substitute.

Secondary Uses:

• Nitrogen Fixer – puts nitrogen back into the soil which may be used as a fertilizer to other plants.
• General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
• Lacewings prefer to lay eggs on this plant
• Parasitic Wasps prefer to live around this plant
• Thickets can create habitat for small birds and mammals and other wildlife
• Can grow seasonally along structures (fences, arbors, pergolas, etc.) which would be great at blocking or directing wind, providing Summer shade, or seasonal privacy screens
• Fiber from the plant has been used to make paper, thread, and cloth.

Yield: No reliable information
Harvesting: October - December.
Storage: Best used fresh or dried

Close-up of the Wisteria flowers.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JbGSg5d6UV0/TYfyIVVbxkI/AAAAAAAABmM/xbKUywPaW8o/s1600/wisteria%2Bin%2Bbloom%2B009.JPG

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-9
AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information available
Chill Requirement: Likely considering the Hardiness Zone and the flowering nature of this plant, but there is not reliable information available.

Plant Type: Large woody vine with seasonal herbaceous growth
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Vertical/Climbing Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species and varieties available

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile

Flowering: Summer. May-July. Flowers on when mature which may take only a few years with Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya), but can take up to twenty years with Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis)

Life Span:

Years to Begin Flowering: 1-2 years, especially with plants propagated through cuttings, but can take 20+ years for plants propagated from seed
Years of Useful Life: Easily dozens of years. Many documented vines are over one hundred years old.

Wisteria vines can be large, strong, and aggressive - plan well.

http://files.deepfriedkudzu.com/DSC08393-757687.JPG

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 20-50 feet (6-15 meters) tall and wide – depends on the species/variety
Roots: Strong, extensive root system, can be heart-shaped
Growth Rate: Fast

Amazing Wisteria garden path

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_I6gou145Cc0/TDoOEzEZX3I/AAAAAAAAExA/dM5y9ePceYI/s1600/Wisteria+Walk.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full to partial shade
Shade: Tolerates light to medium shade
Moisture: Prefers medium wet soils, Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya) can tolerate wet soils
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (5.5-7.5)

Special Considerations for Growing:

• Avoid fertilizing Wisteria with nitrogen – this plant can produce its own nitrogen, so excess will inhibit flower production.
• Choose the location for planting carefully. The strong roots can destroy walls and pavement if planted too close.

 
Propagation: Hardwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings. By seed, but plants grown from seed may take decades to bloom.

Maintenance:

Depending on the location and the amount of room you have, some pruning may be required to keep the vine in bounds.

Concerns:

• Can spread quickly to a large size. Consider this when choosing a planting location and when determining how much seasonal pruning you desire to do.
• Roots can be vigorous and expansive in some species.
• Poisonous (see comments above)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rB-G-WeWgJI/S804H6rqyxI/AAAAAAAAIE4/MEYgKQZv21g/s1600/Wisteria1.jpg

Permaculture Plants: Maypop

The Maypop is a "tropical" fruit that can be grown in much of the U.S.

http://www.grit.com/uploadedImages/GRT/articles/e-news/2009-04-01/Passiflora-incarnata-flower.jpg

Common Name: Maypop
Other Names: Ocoee, Purple Passionflower, Wild Passion Vine, Wild Apricot
Scientific Name: Passiflora incarnata

Family: Passifloraceae (the Passion Fruit family)

Fruit is about the size of a chicken egg - the dents mean it's ripe!

http://www.wormspit.com/images/Passiflora/images/img_9243.jpg

Description:
Maypops are one of the most cold hardy of all Passionfruit species. This herbaceous vine is vigorous, produces stunning flowers, and has a tropical tasting fruit... yet it can be grown throughout most of the U.S. The 2-3 inch (5-7.5 cm) fruit has a size and taste very similar to its close cousin, Passion Fruit.

Passiflora incarnata

http://www.dickcontino.com/images/Passiflora_incarnata.jpg

History:
A native to eastern North America and a food source for Native Americans as well as European settlers. Very little agricultural improvement has been conducted with this plant, and it is often found growing wild today.

The Maypop has beautiful flowers!

http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2011/020/c/8/maypop_passionflower_by_laemperatrizmacaria-d305b60.jpg

Trivia:

• The Cherokee in Tennessee named it ocoee, and the Tennessee Ocoee River and Ocoee Valley are named after this flower.
• The Maypop is the State Wildflower of Tennessee.
• While this plant does have perfect flowers (contains both male and female parts), many of the flowers are functionally male – the female parts have atrophied or grow in a way that will never allow fertilization. This means that not all flowers will set fruit. The Maypop will change the number of female flowers it produces throughout the growing season based on the growing conditions.
• This plant has long been used as a symbol of Christianity and the Passion of Christ (hence the Family name):

          - 10 petals (5 true petals and 5 petal-like sepals) represent the 10 apostles at the crucifixion
          - The purple/pink corona represents the crown of thorns
          - The 5 stamens represent the 5 wounds of Christ (wrists, feet, one in the side)
          - The 3 styles represent the 3 nails used on Christ
          - The tendrils represent the whips used to scourge Christ
          - The three-lobed leaves also represent the Trinity (Father, Son, Holy Spirit)

• Each flower only lasts about one day
• The flowers have a lemony aroma
• The Maypop's name has been reported to have two meanings: 1) it "pops" up in May rather quickly, 2) while it shoots up in May, the ripe fruit that drops can make a loud "popping" sound if you accidentally step on them.

The odd packaging of the flavorful fruit... technically a berry.

http://www.wormspit.com/images/Passiflora/images/img_9232.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Fresh eating - contains a whole bunch of edible seeds surrounded by a gelatinous (and very flavorful) fruit. While you can eat the seeds (like pomegranate) many just spit them out
• Cooked fruit - great for making tropical flavored sauces
• Leaves - raw (addition to salads) or cooked (as a steamed veggie)
• Teas - leaves are used
• Fruit juice - alone/mixed with other juices; can flavor other foods (ice cream, fruit leather, etc.)
• Preserves, jams, jellies, etc.
• Flowers are said to be edible - cooked like a veggie, but I have never tried this

Secondary Uses:

• General insect nectar plant, especially bees (i.e. attracts beneficial insects)
• Hummingbird and butterfly nectar plant
• Food source for wildlife in Summer and Autumn
• Beautiful flowers (pale pink to deep purple) in the Spring
• Medicinal - long history of Native Americans using the Maypop for insomnia, anxiety, and inflammation

Yield: I've seen reported 10-20 fruits per vine depending on vine size and age of the plant, but this seems to be reportings on wild plants

Wild Maypop fruit can be hard to find.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2458/3865946385_4bcc0e0617.jpg

Harvesting: Late Summer – Autumn (September – November). Fruit ripens through the season, so plan to check the vine often. Many growers will just wait for the mature fruit to drop before harvesting.

Storage: Fresh fruit can store for a week or two at cool room temperature. Don’t let it dry out by placing it a dry environment.

http://images.wikia.com/recipes/images/b/b7/Maypop_fruit.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-10
AHS Heat Zone: 12-4
Chill Requirement: Likely, but no reliable data can be found as to the specifics

Plant Type: Herbaceous Vine (above ground parts die back each winter)
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Vertical/Climbing Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: There are few named varieties, most named varieties that exist have been improved for their flowers and not their fruit; hence they may not be a good choice for the Permaculturist (one named variety is even sterile!). However, there are many unnamed varieties that grow great fruit.

Pollination: Needs Cross-Pollination to produce fruit – needs another variety/cultivar nearby, and both will set fruit. Pollinated largely by Carpenter Bees. If none are present, and since there are not a lot of flowers, some growers will hand-pollinate using pollen from a flower that has been open for 12 hours.
Flowering: Summer (July – September)

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 1-2 years
Years to Maximum Bearing: 2-4 years
Years of Useful Life: Indefinite as "new" shoots form every year

Maypop's large tri-lobed leaf.

http://www.cas.vanderbilt.edu/bioimages/biohires/p/hpain6-lf35194.JPG

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 10-30 feet (3-9 meters) tall (but about 15-20 feet is typical) and as wide as you will let it grow (but single vines are about 1 foot (30 cm) wide)
Roots: Initially a tap root and over time a deep network of roots both Suckering (shoots can pop up quite a distance from the “mother” plant) and Stoloniferous (will root from creeping stems above ground)
Growth Rate: Fast

Growing Maypops from seed can be a troublesome task... I'll stick with cuttings and layering.

http://www.wormspit.com/images/Passiflora/images/img_9255.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade
Moisture: Medium, but can tolerate drought once established
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (5.5 - 7.5)

Special Considerations for Growing:

• The fruit needs a long and warm summer to ripen, so consider planting in your sunnier spots.
• This plant starts late in the Spring (remember the name?), so it can be planted in a place that late summer shade will not interfere with other plants growth.
• Maypop grows rapidly and grows best when it can climb on a trellis, a fence, an arbor, or even other shrubs.

Propagation: Layering - Take advantage of its stoloniferous nature and layer this plant in Spring and Summer... the stems root easily. Cuttings. Seed - should be soaked for 12 hrs in warm water before sown; may take a full 12 months to germinate.

Maintenance:

• Minimal. Almost no pests. 
• Keep the vine in check by hand picking suckers or mowing around the plant where you don’t want it to spread. 
• The browned vines can be trimmed back at the end of each season.
• Many in the northern zones will mulch the roots for added frost protection

Concerns: Spreads wide and fast if allowed

Eat the Weeds: Maypop

Here is a great video on Maypop from Green Deane!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmDqWSwbU7A

Permaculture Plants: Groundnut

Groundnut: this North American native has a lot going for it.

http://www.cambreenotes.com/images/groundnuts.jpg

Common Name: Groundnut
Other Names: Potato Bean, Indian Potato, Hopniss
Scientific Name: Apios americana
Closely related plants: Apios fortunei (Fortune's Groundnut), Apios princesana (Prince's Groundnut)
Family: Fabaceae (Legume/Pea/Bean Family)

Great photo of Groundnut's tuber chains.

http://chenocetah.files.wordpress.com/2007/11/apiostubers2.jpg

Description:
North America's most well known native root crop, although it is not very well known by most people. It is a large, vining, herbaceous plant with small to large tubers (grape to grapefruit sized) that have an earthy, nutty taste somewhat between potatoes and peanuts or roasted sweet potatoes. It is also a nitrogen fixing plant... it puts nitrogen back into the soil. It is a good attractor of beneficial insects and is a fair groundcover plant. If you have a medium to large area that this plant can spread, then strongly consider adding Groundnut to your Edible Forest Garden.

Groundnut tubers cleaned and ready to be trimmed and cooked.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_h17uWlUI8wg/TPvO5GYikvI/AAAAAAAADX0/ClfU8Ji0Z80/s1600/IMG_1831.jpg

History:
Groundnut is native to eastern North America, and it was an important food crop for Native Americans and European settlers. It was often transplanted by Native Americans where it often naturalized near their settlements. Recently there has been a lot of improvement work done on Groundnut by Southern Louisiana State University.

Trivia:

• Groundnut is a starchy root crop with a high protein content - improved varieties have up to three times the protein at potatoes.
• Groundnut (Apios americana) should not be confused with other plants sometimes called "groundnut", like the common peanut (Arachis hypogaea).
• The scientific name Apios americana means "American Pear"

Groundnut's seedpods can be eaten like beans, but the larger pods may be a bit fibrous.

http://www.gardenbytes.com/2010/09/late-breaking-news-on-my-favorite.html

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Edible Root Crop - must be cooked. Treated like other root crops. May become dry and mealy if not cooked the right way (it can easily be cooked too much). Boiling for 10-15 minutes is all that is needed.
• Nitrogen Fixing Plant - it puts nitrogen back into the soil to be used by other plants

Secondary Uses:

• General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
• Insect-shelter plant - lacewings prefer to lay eggs on Groundnuts, and parasatoid wasps are often found on Groundnuts foliage (although we are not quite sure why)
• Chips (both American or British!)
• Dried and ground into flour for addition to breads or as a thickening agent
• Seeds and seedpods are edible, but not typically produced in large enough volume to be a main crop - treated like peas or beans

Harvesting: 
Tubers can be harvested at any time of year; although they are often harvested in Fall and Winter (October-March). For those of us who desire to grow these as perenials, there is a technique for harvesting the roots without destroying the whole crop. Roughly divide the planting into 3-4 parcels. Each Fall or Winter, harvest one parcel, and leave the others to grow for another season or two. Rotate each season.

Storage: 
Since tubers can be harvested at anytime, and since Groundnuts store best in the ground, some choose to only use fresh Groundnut straight from the garden. However, Groundnut can be stored in a moist, dark location (like in a plastic bag in a refrigerator) for up to a few months if conditions are right. Just avoid letting the tubers dry out as this can easily happen and ruins the crop.

Groundnut flowers are small, beautiful...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3270/2789608381_6149e94cc2_z.jpg

...and have a scent like violets.

http://www.thismia.com/A/Apios_americana1.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-10 for Groundnut (Apios americana)
AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information on this.
Chill Requirement: No reliable information on this; however, they can thrive in locations with hot and humid summers and do not grow well in the tropics. This causes experts to think that Groundnuts need some chill for proper growth and development.

Plant Type: Herbaceous vine (dies back each winter, but may leave thick stems in place)
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Underground Layer, Vertical/Climbing Layer, Groundcover/Creeper Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: There are a few improved varieties available.

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile
Flowering: June-September

Life Span:
Years to Become Established: 2-3 years
Years of Useful Life: No reliable information available

Seeds and seedpods of the Groundnut (with ruler in centimeters).

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/proceedings1990/figures/v1-438a.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 4-8 Feet (1.25-2.5 meters) tall if allowd to climb, 4 feet (1.25 meters) tall if spreading, and 1 foot (0.3 meters) wide, although it can spread indefinitely
Roots: Tuberous, Suckering (can send up shoots quite a distance from main plant)
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast

Groundnut has fairly distinct foliage.

http://zottoli.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/366-apios-americana-groundnut-vine-2-mb-sept-16-2004.jpg?w=576&h=432

http://extension.umass.edu/landscape/sites/landscape/files/weeds/leaves/apoam6228w.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade and still produces
Moisture: Medium, but can grow well in very moist soils that drain well
pH: Acidic to Neutral (5.1-7.0), Apios fortunei (Fortune's Groundnut) 3.5-8.5

Special Considerations for Growing:

• May be slow to become established, but once it is established it can be expansive. May be a plant reserved for medium to large forest gardens.
• Groundnut needs a trellis or other structure (non-fruiting tree?) on which to grow or it will need lost of room for expansion over the ground. Consider rhizome barriers if your space is limited and your tolerance of spread is low.
• If growing Groundnut as a groundcover, then space the plantings 12-18" (0.3-0.4 meters) apart. It is a medium density groundcover plant, so it is best interplanted with other medium density groundcover plants (like lowbush blueberry, lignonberry, groundcover raspberry, thyme, yarrow, strawberry, violet, chives, chamomile, oregeno, etc.)... considering its ability to fix nitrogen and grow in acidic soils, blueberries and lignonberries are natural permaculture partners.
• Groundnuts can be susceptible to parasitic nematodes in the deep South U.S.

Propagation: 
Usually, and most easily, by division of the tubers. May replant either a whole string of tubers or each tuber individually. Reported to become dormant for a season if not divided in the Autumn. Can be propagated via cuttings. May be propagated via seeds, but this is more difficult as germination can be difficult, seeds need scarification and soaking for at least 3 hours, and not all seeds are fertile.

Maintenance:
Minimal once established. May need to keep its growth in check with vigorous pruning/tuber harvesting if it becomes expansive.

Concerns:
May become expansive.

Great photo (by Jason Houston) of the Groundnut from the Orion Magazine article below.

http://www.orionmagazine.org/phpthumb/phpThumb.php?src=http://www.orionmagazine.org/i/article_images/Groundnut%20450.jpg&w=450

Here is a great article on the wild forage of Groundnut (aka Hopniss) by Samuel Thayer, the author of The Forager's Harvest and Nature's Garden.

Here is another great article on Stalking the Wild Groundnut by Tamara Dean from Orion Magazine.

Permaculture Plants: Hops

Hops... the favorite vine of brewers!

http://images.wikia.com/beer/images/e/e8/Hopfendolde-mit-hopfengarten.jpg

Common Name: Hops
Scientific Name: Humulus lupulus
Family: Cannabaceae (Hemp Family)

The flower clusters are called cones.

http://beerandburritos.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/hops-in-hand.jpg

Description:
Hops are twining perennial climbers that are fairly drought tolerant. The female plants produce flower cones (also called hops) that are used to provide bitterness and preservation to beer. There are a number of full sized and dwarf varieties, and as a homebrewer of beer I plan to grow quite a few varieties when I finally get the chance.

Humulus lupulus by Kholer

http://botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/h/hops--32-l.jpg

History:
The first documented cultivation of hops was in 736 AD in Hallertau region (part of Bavaria) of Germany. Hops have been growing here ever since, and close to one quarter of the world's hops are now produced in this area. However, in the first century, hops was not a prime beer additive. Over time, in spite of legal battles and elitists' bans on the plant, hops eventually became the primary bittering agent and preservative in beer. It was first grown in the U.S. in 1629.

A hops arbor growing in a well manicured garden.

http://www.cherrygal.com/images/Humulus2.jpg

Trivia:

• The female plant produces clusters of flowers called Cones or Strobiles. These resemble pale, drooping, green flowers.
• Only cones from the female plant are used in beer making.
• Before hops, a wide variety of flowers and herbs were used to bitter the sweet malted barley: marigold, dandelion, burdock, horehound, heather, etc.
• Most hops are dried before using in beer.
• The resins in the flowers are what give the distinct qualities to hops. The two main components are alpha and beta acids.
• Alpha acids are responsible for the antibiotic effect and the bittering flavor in hops.
• Beta acids are responsible for the aroma - I love this aroma!
• The "Noble Hops" (Hallertau, Tettnanger, Spalt, and Saaz cultivars, all German) are classic low bitterness, high aroma hops, although some consider two English varieties (Fuggles and East Kent Goldings) to be "Noble" as well.

Do I really need to give more motivation?

http://towdistributing.com/media/Stock_Website_Images/Beer_Hops.JPG

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Female "flowers" (Cones) used in beer making

Secondary Uses:

• Young Spring shoots can be cooked as vegetables, like asparagus, and was a Roman specialty
• Tea (cones and/or leaves)
• Medicinal uses - historically used for anxiety, restlessness, insomnia, and anti-bacterial agent.
• has been used in sausages, cereals, non-beer beverages, tobacco, and perfumes.
• Stems have been thought to produce fiber and paper.
• Leaves and cones used to produce a brown dye

Yield: Varies greatly on the variety and growing conditions.
Harvesting: Female cones are harvested in autumn.  Bloom to harvest is about 40 days.
Storage: Unless used immediately, drying is the best method for preservation. Once dried, hops can be stored in a sealed bag (as close to vacuum as you can get it) for many months. This can extend the brewing potential of home raised hops.

Resins of the hops flower (the yellow globs) contain the alpha and beta acids.

http://www.examiner.com/images/blog/wysiwyg/image/Hops_4_T.JPG

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-5
Chill Requirement: Likely, but none documented that I could find

Plant Type: Large herbaceous vining/climbing plant
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Vertical Layer (Vining/Climbing)
Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available.

Pollination: Hops are dioecious (male and female plants). You only need one male vine for a number of female plants if you are interested in propagating from seed; however, this is rarely done.

Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 2-3 years
Years to Maximum Bearing: 3-4 years
Years of Useful Life: No good information found

The development of the Hops leaf... becoming more complex with age.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fb/Humulus_lupulus_012.jpg/480px-Humulus_lupulus_012.jpg

The start of the female flower cluster... known as the female inflorescence.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Humulus_lupulus_005.JPG/450px-Humulus_lupulus_005.JPG

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 15-30 feet (4.5 - 9 meters) tall and wide; some dwarf varieties exist that are about half this size
Roots: Rhizomatous - underground stems that send up shoots and down roots
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast depending on the variety

http://newplanetbeer.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/hops1.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade
Moisture: Medium moist to dry
pH: prefers fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0)

Special Considerations for Growing: 
Hops has been grown commercially for a long time, so there are some very specific ways in which it is grown to produce maximum yields, make harvesting easier, make treating pests easier, and make the most money... however, if you plant hops in a Forest Garden setting, then you can pretty much plant it is a sunny, well ventilated location with a structure/support to grow, and leave it be!

Martin Crawford, world expert on forest gardening, recommends growing hops on the south side of large, non-fruiting/nut trees like the nitrogen-fixing Alders. This allows nitrogen for the fast growing hops, structure for the hops to climb, but does not inhibit yield of a high production tree. Brilliant!

Propagation:  Root cuttings, division (in Spring), or layering.  Rarely grown from seed as it will not produce true to type... meaning, plants grown from seed will produce plants with very different flower characteristics.  Since the flowers of specific varieties are used to give distinct flavors and aromas to beer, then growers usually want these characteristics preserved... hence the aforementioned propagation methods.

Maintenance:
Minimal once established. Some forest gardeners will leave the old stems as a trellis for new growth.

Concerns:
Poisonous to dogs - results in hyperthermia, seizures, and death.
Some people can develop dermatitis (skin irritation) while picking the hops.
Sprawling vigorous growth can overtake some areas if not kept in check or planted with the growth in mind.

Young hops shoots collected in the Spring can be treated and eaten just like asparagus.

http://meelsmeals.blogspot.com/2011/04/sauteed-hop-shoots.html

Permaculture Plants: Malabar Spinach

Photos of my Malabar Spinach

Common Name: Malabar Spinach

Scientific Name: Basella alba, Basella rubra

Family: Basellaceae

The tender leaves and shoots of Malabar Spinach are great fresh!

Description:

Malabar spinach is not actually related to spinach at all.  It is a heat-loving, vining, perennial plant with heart-shaped leaves from the tropics and sub-tropics.  It is often grown in more Temperate Climates as a heat-loving annual substitute for spinach.  It is considered a succulent (a plant that stores water in their leaves and stems), and it is used much like spinach, although I believe the taste is not very similar when raw.  Although when cooked, it does indeed taste like spinach.

It is said that Malabar Spinach has a mucilaginous texture.  This has a lot of negative connotations.  I think a better word is "slippery".  It actually has a very pleasant mouth feel to it.  I would describe it as crunchy and juicy when raw.  The taste is slightly peppery with a bit of a citrusy flavor with hints of earthy spinach to it.  Apparently, the red stemmed version (Basella rubra) is more mild in flavor than the green (Basella alba).  I have only grown and tasted Basella rubra, so I cannot speak from experience on the all green version.  As I said above, once cooked, it tastes much like spinach, maybe a little stronger.

History:

The name, Malabar, likely refers to the northern areas of Kerala state in India.  This at least is fitting, since it is thought that Malabar Spinach originated in India (although some research suggests Indonesia).  It is a very popular green vegetable in India, Southeast Asia, China, and Africa.

Trivia:

• This is a great salad green replacement when the temperatures soar in the summer and our lettuces are wilting and ready to bolt.
• Malabar Spinach is very high in vitamins A and C.
• Malabar Spinach is high in calcium and iron.

Malabar Spinach using my fig tree as a trellis.

USING THIS PLANT

Primary Uses:

• Fresh - Young leaves and the top 5-8 inches of shoots can be eaten raw.  Used in salads.
• Cooked - Older leaves should be cooked as they have a rougher texture.  It is more like spinach in look and flavor when cooked.  It holds its shape a lot better than spinach when it is cooked.  Can be substituted for cooked spinach or chard.

Secondary Uses:

• Thickening agent.  Here is where the "mucilaginous" part of Malabar Spinach is very helpful, kind of like okra, in soups, stews, and curries.
• The red-purple juice from the berries can be used a a food dye and ink - it will stain!

Yield: Higher with more heat and with more pinching off of shoots and flowers

Harvesting: Whenever you want!  

Storage: Should be used immediately.  Does not seem to store well for more than a few days after picked.

The deep red vines and pink flowers contrast beautifully with the dark green leaves.

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT

USDA Hardiness Zone: Killed by frost, although some report established plants can withstand 5 F (-14 C).

Plant Type: Vine

Leaf Type: Deciduous 

Forest Garden Use: Fast growing, heat loving annual vine in Temperate Climates.  Perennial vine in Sub-Tropical, Tropical Climates, heated greenhouses, or possibly as a potted indoor plant.  

Cultivars/Varieties: Basella alba is all green.  Basella rubra has red stems, is prettier, and is likely just a variety of Basella alba.

Flowering: Mid-Summer

Malabar Spinach is a fast growing vine.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT

Size: 5-6 feet in a summer, easily.  Up to 12 feet in a long summer, and some report up to 30 feet if grown as a perennial.

Growth Rate: Fast if there is heat.  Large plant in 8-10 weeks.

Older leaves are a great cooked spinach or chard substitute.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT

Light: Prefers full sun

Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%), but grows much slower

Moisture: Medium

pH: Prefers fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.8)

Special Considerations for Growing: 

Give it something to grow on (trellis or tree) and your yields will be higher, easier, and free from dirt.

Propagation:  Pretty easily grown from seed.  Some will recommend soaking the seed in water overnight to improve germination rates, but I have not found that to be necessary.  Seems to prefer direct seeding when temperatures remain above 60 F (15 C), but I have transplanted with success.  Seeds can be saved from ripened fruit (small dark purple berries) - clean and dry the seeds.  Malabar Spinach is also easily grown from cuttings as it roots easily.

Maintenance:

Minimal.  Cut back severely to keep it in check if you live in a frost-free zone.  If there are no nematodes, then this plant has almost no pests.

Concerns:

• If you live in a frost-free area, this vine can grow like crazy.  Some may call it invasive.
• Reportedly susceptible to nematodes.
• Reportedly susceptible to a fungus that destroys the leaves and can infect beets and chard as well.

Permaculture Plants: Bougainvillea

Beautiful Bougainvillea Bracts.

http://www.paradiseearth.com/Plant%20Articles/bougainvillea.jpg

I recently received this email from a reader:

Hi John, this isn't actually a temperate climate question, but I'd love to hear your thoughts anyways. I've just moved into a new home in Southern Turkey where the climate is similar to that of southern California. I'm hoping to experiment with some permaculture projects in my living space and want to start with what's already there. There is a large Bougainvillea bush ("paper flower") in the back yard and roses in the front yard. Do you have any insights from your reading about the benefits and uses of these two plants in particular and how they as ornamentals might fit into a permaculture system? 

First, I have to say that the Mediterranean climate really is technically part of the world's Temperate Climate Zone.  While there are roses that can be grown throughout most of the world, Bougainvillea is more tropical and sub-tropical, and many readers of the blog live in just these areas.  In the U.S., it can be grown in large swaths through California, Texas, Louisiana, and Florida.  Overall, very appropriate!

I'll talk about the roses in a separate post where I will devote a full "Permaculture Plants" article on them.  Today I will really focus on the basic Permaculture aspects of the Bougainvillea.  While not a plant that is often considered when discussing Permaculture, it does have a number of uses from which we can benefit if we already have these plants growing on our land.

Bougainvillea grows high and thick.

http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/00/1c/93/d2/bougainvillea-adorning.jpg

Common Name: Bougainvillea, Paper Flower
Pronounced: boo-gan-VEE-yuh or boo-gan-VEE-jah
Scientific Name: Bougainvillea species
Family: Nyctaginaceae

Description:
Bougainvillea are woody vines that can be shaped into a standard upright shrub that can grow fairly tall.  It is most well know for its vibrantly colored bracts - modified leaves that surround the true flower inside.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 9b-12.  If kept dry, can withstand light frost and temperatures to 32 F (0 C).
Life Span: - 3-10 years

Primary Uses:

• Ornamental vine
• Ornamental standard bush or shrub
• Ornamental hedge

Secondary Uses:

• General insect nectar source - has small flowers which bloom long and often from which smaller, beneficial insects can eat
• Natural barrier fence due to its thorns and dense growth habit
• Drought and heat tolerant - excellent for outside of normal watering/irrigation areas
• Small animal shelter - especially small birds
• Privacy Hedge - due to its very dense growth
• Wind Break
• Potpourri - while lacking scent, the bracts hold their color and shape well when dried
• Wreathes - made from cuttings
• Used in traditional medicine for diarrhea, heartburn, cough, sore throat - studies are lacking
• Recently studied for diabetic and cancer treatments - no current treatment recommendations 

A Bougainvillea Hedge

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EWuR-VzwybY/SvCszA231mI/AAAAAAAACxQ/rthvchwWZ88/s400/P1013501.JPG

Flowering: The closer to the equator, the longer the blooming season.  More Temperate Climates can expect long, recurrent summer and early autumn blooms.

Special Considerations for Growing:
Bougainvillea does not tolerate high levels of prolonged moisture.  Avoid overwatering.  Too much water causes the plant not to flower and can cause root rot.

Propagation:
Seeds.  Easily propagated through tip cuttings.  Just keep the cutting in moist soil in the shade until roots develop.

"Propagating bougainvilleas from cuttings is easy. The best way to identify the best quality wood for a cutting is to look for the striped bark, which will be semi-hard wood and take a four-node cutting. Remove all of the leaves except for the top leaf. Injure the bark of the bottom node and dip in rooting hormone and place in a striking mix in small pots. Normally it takes between two and three months for roots to be visible at the bottom of the tube."

- From Gardening Australia website

Bougainvillea can get quite large if allowed.

http://www.home-herb-garden.com/images/BOUGainvillea.jpg

Maintenance: Relatively pest free.  Minimal once established, but will need pruning to keep in bounds

Concerns:

• Sharp Thorns!  Don't walk barefoot near this plant.  As a child, we had a large bougainvillea on the side of our home.  We often avoided this corner of the property, because we rarely wore shoes as children when playing outside.  I had numerous thorns impaled in my calloused feet when I would run too close to this plant.  Note that all varieties do not have thorns.
• Irritating Sap.  Can cause poison ivy (poison oak, poison sumac) like reactions.

Bougainvillea come in a wide variety of colors, although the shades of purple are most common.

http://okeechobee.ifas.ufl.edu/images/Bougai1.jpg