Showing posts with label Water Harvesting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Water Harvesting. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Turn Air Into Water: The Airdrop Irrigation System

Edward Linacre and his Airdrop Irrigation System

The 2011 James Dyson Award went to Edward Linacre for his Airdrop Irrigation System.  This simple, but brilliant, design actually pulls water from air through condensation.  "Yeah, so what?" you say, "Every time I walk outside in the morning, there is condensation (dew) on the ground."

Well, Edward Linacre can do it in a desert.  And he can produce enough to irrigate plants.

Amazing!

While still in the beginning stages and not available for purchase... yet, this is an idea and a project to watch closely.  Very closely.

Here are a couple of interviews with Edward Linacre:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2011/nov/20/edward-linacre-airdrop-bright-idea
http://www.cnet.com.au/turning-air-into-water-australias-james-dyson-award-winner-339325792.htm


Here are a couple of short video interviews:

Edward Linacre explains his motivation for developing the Airdrop Irrigation System.

Interview with Edward Linacre explaining how the Airdrop Irrigation System works.


How does the Airdrop Irrigation System work?


Tuesday, September 13, 2011

RainSaucers


I was going to start this post by saying how much I hate it when I come up with a great idea only to find out that someone else has already beat me to it.  But in reality, I don't care that much.  It makes be feel good that I had an idea that works!

My idea was to have a large circular sail that could open up flat (horizontal) when it rained.  It would have a very large surface area of at least 1,000 square feet (300 square meters).  This would be used for rain water collection, mainly for livestock tank filling, but also for human consumption as well.

The simple, yet elegant, RainSaucer.

Then, just a few days ago, I heard an interview with Tom Spargo on The Survival Podcast.  This gentleman created a scaled down version of my idea... okay, so it was his idea! :)

The RainSaucer can easily be connected to many different systems.

The RainSaucer is a rain harvesting tool.  It is portable.  It is durable.  It can be connected to many different collection systems (buckets, barrels, troughs, etc.)  It is also not that expensive at only $55.  He has completed many field trials in Guatemala providing locals with inexpensive ways to obtain clean drinking water.

RainSaucers incorporated into a trellis on a sustainable garden.  Love it!

No, I don't own stock in this company (I doubt they actually have stock), but I see a great product here. This is one that will be incorporated into my Permaculture System in the future.  Here is a link to the only place the currently sells the RainSaucer online, but I think that will change quickly as this company continues to grow.  And here is a video on installing the RainSaucer.  It shows how simple this system is, and typically all great ideas are simple but brilliant.


Check out these other Water Harvesting posts:

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Gabions for Creek Restoration

Gabions acting as a retaining wall.


Gabion is a word that comes from Italian meaning big cage.  In typical civil engineering use, a gabion is a cage or box filled with sand, soil, or rubble used to stabilize a slope, build a retaining wall, build a foundation, or direct flow of water especially to prevent erosion.  The military will uses gabions to protect artillery crews from enemy fire.

Gabions used to prevent water erosion.

I recently came across the following video showing how gabions are being used to restore a creek and surrounding riparian zone and vegetation.  (Riparian = the interface between land and river or stream)  In this case, the term gabion is loosely applied to piles of rocks and trees.  These piles form a leaky dam.  The water upstream builds up, the water level rises, and the water irrigates the surrounding land.  The water downstream initially slows down, but soon after construction the water leaks through the gabions and flow returns to previous levels.  This allows a landowner to utilize water more efficiently.  Also, by keeping the downstream flow unchanged, no downstream neighbors can complain.  

This is a beautiful system that builds ecosystems.  It is a great example of Permaculture in action.  Here is the video from the Permaculture Research Institute of Australia:




Monday, July 18, 2011

Dew Ponds or Dieu Ponds

Dew or Dieu Pond

There is an air of mystery surrounding these small water storage ponds that dot the English countryside. They seemed to possess a magical ability to fill and retain water in the hills and higher elevations without a visible water source.  Even their name is a bit of a mystery.  Called "Dew Ponds" by some, they are also less frequently called "Dieu Ponds", "Fog Ponds", and "Mist Ponds".  Whatever their proper name, these small ponds are a fantastic Permaculture Project for collecting and storing water.

No one knows for sure when the Dew Ponds were first built in England, but according to folklore they were said to be filled by the nighttime dew (they are also known as "mist" or "fog" ponds for the same reason).  Others have said that they were filled with water sent by Dieu, French for God, himself.  These Dew Ponds were possibly being built as early as the first century A.D., and about 500 are still in existence in England today.  Most of these Dew Ponds still rarely run dry, even in the hottest summers of drought. 
A full Dew Pond
They were most likely created for watering livestock at the top of hills or in "high country" where no water source was readily available.  Historically construction of Dew Ponds were a closely held secret passed on only after years of apprenticeship or between fathers and sons.  While there was a mystical quality to the creation of these ponds, there are a number of sources from the late 1800's and early 1900's that describe their construction in a detailed manner. 

From the wikipedia article on Dew Ponds:
A Sussex farmer born in 1850 tells how he and his forefathers made dew ponds: “The requisite hole having been excavated, the chalk was laid down layer by layer, while a team of oxen harnessed to a heavy broad-wheeled cart was drawn round and round the cup shaped hole to grind the chalk to powder. Water was then thrown over the latter as work progressed, and after nearly a day of this process, the resultant mass of puddled chalk, which had been reduced to the consistency of thick cream, was smoothed out with the back of a shovel from the centre, the surface being left at last as smooth and even as a sheet of glass. A few days later, in the absence of frost or heavy rain, the chalk had become as hard as cement, and would stand for years without letting water through. This old method of making dew ponds seems to have died out when the oxen disappeared from the Sussex hills, but it is evident that the older ponds, many of which have stood for scores of years practically without repair, are still more watertight than most modern ones in which Portland cement has been employed.”

Dew Pond in South Downs, England

In more modern times, Dew Ponds are still built in a pretty similar manner.  There are so few people building these ponds now, and there are many variations on the theme, but the following is the best I could compile on how to build one.  Dew Ponds are dug where there is already a mini-catchment or a small depression, typically on the top or side of a hill.  They are typically anywhere from 3 to 30 feet in diameter, but up to 70 feet are not uncommon.  The ratio of width to heigth is 3 to 1 at a minimum, and the depth is usually no more than 3-4 feet.  The hole is then lined with straw or hay for insulation.  Then puddled clay or chalk (puddling is the process of adding water to clay or chalk, and pounding it down or otherwise compacting it until it is waterproof) is laid on top the straw.  Often soot or lime is added to the clay to deter earthworms from trying to burrow through the waterproof layer of puddled clay.  This is then covered with another layer of straw, then chalk and small stones.  If being used for animals, it is recommended that large stones are placed from the edges at the low side to provide access. Both the small and large stones are used to distribute the animal's weight and prevent a hoof from breaking the watertight seal.
So from the surface down, the layers would look something like this:
  • Water
  • Large Stones (weight distribution/protection)
  • Small Stones (weight distribution/protection)
  • Chalk or Clay (protection)
  • Straw (protection/insulation)
  • Puddled Clay or Puddled Chalk, possibly mixed with soot or lime (watertight layer)
  • Straw (insulation)
  • Earth
  • One cross-section illustration of a Dew Pond.

Research has shown that Dew Ponds are mainly filled with rainwater and only supplemented with water from dew.  Their small size and insulation keeps the pond cool which inhibits evaporation. Many ponds have one or more trees at the edge which also keeps down evaporation.

Dewpond on Ascension Island, Saint Helena
St. Helena is a territory of Britain
Dew Ponds are a great way to collect and store water.  Check out these other articles on collecting and storing water... all ways to cut back on irrigation needs:

Friday, June 24, 2011

Permaculture Projects: Hugelkultur

Anatomy of Hugelkultur

What is Hugelkultur?
This is a German compound word - aren't they all?
It translates as mound/hill (hugel --> WHO-gull) + culture/cultivation (kultur --> cull-chur).

Hugelkultur is making raised beds that are filled with rotting wood.  It is such a simple concept, but it is an amazing method to use.

Wood pile core of a hugelkultur bed

Benefits of Hugelkultur
  • Full of slowly decomposing organic matter
  • Full of nutrients.
  • Builds fertility over time.
  • The rotting wood is a massive sponge for water (read that: very little or sometimes no irrigation needed - fantastic method of water harvesting/preservation).
  • Heat from the decomposing wood helps create a warmer microclimate
  • It will last for YEARS!  30 years for a deep bed is not unheard of in climates without a high rainfall.  10-15 yrs for a deep bed in areas with high rainfall.  5 yrs or so for shallower beds.  As the bed ages, it will slowly shrink further and further down to the ground.

Side by side comparison of growing cantaloupes - seeds from the same packet!
Left - traditional garden method; Right - a very shallow hugelkultur bed
Look at the difference!

Creating Hugelkultur
Find your woody material.
This can be downed trees, old firewood, pruned branches and twigs, rotten logs, etc.
Wood can be fresh or rotting.  Rotten wood does decompose faster.
Just about any wood can be used.  Paul Wheaton recommends against Black Locust (since it almost never rots!), Cedar (it has natural pesticides and herbicides), and Black Walnut (contains a chemical that prevents plants from growing near it).

Mound your woody material
Lay the wood in a long mound.
It can be any height you want it to be.  1-2 feet is common in backyard gardens, but Sepp Holzer builds his mounds 5-6 feet high.
You can also lay the wood in a dug trench, so that the total height is not as high above ground level.

Cover your woody material
If you are not going to plant immediately, you can add additional compostable items: grass clippings, manure, kitchen scraps, garden waste, sod, etc.
Cover with a few inches of soil and/or compost.

Plant your mound
That's it!

Sepp Holzer's Raised Bed System... really a form of Hugelkultur
Please click on the diagram or link below to see a larger image.
Concerns about Hugelkultur
If you are using fresh wood, there is concern that nitrogen will be sucked into the wood during initial stages of decomposition.  While that is technically true, it appears that this system either mitigates that due to a concurrent release of nitrogen or due to an unknown mechanism unique to this technique.  Either way, people plant vegetables (high nitrogen utilizers) right away into brand-new hugelkultur beds all the time with fantastic results.

Check out these pages:

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Permaculture Projects: Swales

Swale Design

Permaculture Swales
In Permaculture, a swale is a method used to harvest rain water.  They are long shallow trenches that run along the contour of the land.  This means that swales are perfectly level.  Swales do not direct water flow, but they collect water.  The soil removed from the swale is piled on the downhill side to make a slightly raised bank or berm.  When rain falls, the water runs along the surface of the topsoil, and it will collect in the depression of a swale.  The water will slowly seep into the soil and collect in underground pockets that will supply the roots of plants through weeks and even months without rain.

Illustration showing the water storage of a swale - from Gaia's Garden

If rainfall is heavy or fast enough, the water will also slowly seep into, through, and maybe overflow the berm.  Since the swale and berm are level, the water gently slips over the edge, and no erosion takes place.  The water then travels downhill to the next swale.

Plants are planted in the downhill berm.  The roots keep the berm in place, and the water provides moisture to the plants.  Water loving plants can be placed further into the depression of the swale, and plants that require less water can be placed further downhill of the berm.

As time goes on, rain and wind will continue to push and carry silt and other debris into the swale which will slowly build up a compost-like rich soil.  This will only continue to benefit the plants near the swale.

Swale design by Bill Mollison

Swales can be very large or very small.  They can cover large fields or small yards.  The key to making swales is keeping the swale level.  There are many techniques for doing this.  Two handmade leveling devices are an A-frame Level and a Bunyip (water level) which were both used by the Egyptians.  If you have the ability, you can also use a laser level or other surveyor's tools.

The ancient A-frame Level.
Here is a link to a PDF that shows how to use an A-frame Level.

A great video on making a Bunyip (water level)


Using the Bunyip (water level).
When the reading is the same on both sides, then the base of one stick is on contour (is level to) the other stick.  Mark a line with chalk or paint or string from one stick to the other, and you have marked the contour of the land.

The distance between swales is really determined by rainfall.  Swales should be closer together in areas with high rainfall.  According to Toby Hemenway, author of Gaia's Garden, they should be spaced 18 feet in areas with 40-50 inches of rain, and 50 feet in areas with 15 inches of rain.

The following images are of a larger swale system being built.  As you can see, the contour of the land typically creates a curved pattern across the land, NOT straight lines.  Rarely are there any straight lines in nature.

Larger swales following the contour of the land

Water harvesting in the swale

Here is a smaller swale system being established in a display garden:

The planted swale system at a display garden.
Note that the depression of the swale in this photo has been packed with straw.  This allows a more formal appearance to a yard (instead of standing water) while still retaining the water harvesting and storage capabilities.

In even smaller settings, you can create a Fish-Scale Swale.
Note that this swale will be filled with straw mulch and then covered with a thin layer of topsoil.  No one but the designer and the plant know the swale is there. Perfect for those who don't want a yard with "ripples" yet still want the benefit of the swale systems.

If you live in any area that does not receive regular rainfall and has weeks to months where no rain waters your plants, then I strongly suggest looking into Permaculture Swales.

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Permaculture Projects: Rain Harvesting

Don't waste all that free water!

This is is just going to be a quick post to reference the formula for calculating how much water can be obtained from a roof (it is A LOT, by the way).

Formula for calculating rain collection - from Gaia's Garden.

For those who don't like to do a lot of math, here is a quick reference for rain water collection.

The basics of rain harvesting from your roof is quite simple.  First you need gutters.  Then you need somewhere to store the water.  That is it.  To make things more efficient, your storage tank is situated above (higher) than the location you need it, so gravity will take it to where you need it.

Traditional style of rain barrel.. what most people think of.

Modern Rain Barrels come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

More styles of rain barrels.

The basic function of a rain barrel.

Another diagram of a rain barrel.


Here is a more detailed diagram of a rain water collection system.  If you are going to reuse the water in your own home, there are a few additional components to think about.  First is a pump.  If you are fighting against gravity, this is obviously needed.  Second, a filtration system is needed if you will be drinking the water.  Third (or maybe considered part of the filtration system) is a way to separate the first water off the roof which carries roof dust, bird droppings, and other particles that you don't want in your water storage tanks.  These contraptions go by various names such as "roof washer", "flush diverter", or "first flush diverter".

A "Roof Washer"
More detailed photo of the "Roof Washer"
Note the ball that floats as the first roof water flows past.
As the water rises (and becomes more and more clean) the ball will eventually form a seal, and the clean rain water will be diverted to the storage tank.

Another more basic design.

Yet another variation of a first flush diverter.

Here is a link to a PDF from the University of Georgia Extension Agency on Home Rainwater Harvesting.  It is a pretty good article.