Thursday, July 7, 2011

Book Review: Landscaping with Fruit



Quick book review: Landscaping with Fruit by Lee Reich.

I have been a fan of Lee Reich for a number of years.  He has written a few books on uncommon fruits that I have really enjoyed, and I hope to do a review of a few of them soon.  In my opinion, this book fills a great little niche in Permaculture Design.  The basic premise for this book is that we can create beautiful landscapes with useful plants.  Oftentimes, Permaculture Systems have a very unkempt appearance.  I think this is due to the idea that Permaculture is supposed to model natural systems, and Permaculturists do that very well... to the point of things looking very "messy". 

I don't believe Permaculture Systems have to look like overgrown fields.  They can look overgrown, and they work great, but they can also be beautiful places to work and walk and just be. 

The first part of this book (about the first quarter of this 175 page book) goes through landscape planning and design.  Consideration of size, shape, color, texture, and layout are discussed.  The rest of the book deals with 42 plants that are edible and beautiful.  The book reviews common fruits like apples, apricots, cherries, and pears to less common home plants like mulberries, kiwifruit, and currants, to very uncommon fruiting plants like jujube, quince, seaberry, goumi, raisin tree, and pawpaws. 

The negatives for this book are few.  My biggest issue is that the book only covers 42 plants.  There are so many more that could have been added in my opinion.  However, the plants that are included are very well covered.

This could be a coffee table book with its great photos.  It has excellent information.  If you have an interest in increasing the beauty of your property with useful, fruiting plants, then I would consider this book.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Hardiness Zones, Heat Zones, and Sunset Zones

USDA Hardiness Zones

The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) has been producing a Hardiness Zone Map for many years.  This map divides the U.S. into Zones 1 through 10 based on minimum temperatures (1 being the coldest and 10 being the warmest).  A plant is placed into one of these Hardiness Zones based upon the lowest temperature it can withstand.  Over the years, the concept of Hardiness Zones have been applied to all areas in the world.

2006 National Arbor Day Foundation Hardiness Zone Map

The most recent USDA Hardiness Zone Map is from 1990.  However through work from the American Horticulture Society, the Arbor Day Foundation has created the 2006 Hardiness Zone Map.  This takes into account the warmer temperatures the U.S. has been experiencing over the last decade.  If you are interested in seeing the changes, the Arbor Day Foundation has a great animation on this page. Just click the Play button. 

Probably the most useful site for locating your Hardiness Zone is located here.  Just enter your zip code and your Hardiness Zone will be shown.

The benefit of Hardiness Zones is that it provides a starting point for planning which plants can winter-over where you live.  However, there are a few drawbacks to the Hardiness Zone Map.  It does not consider day length (changes considerably the further from the equator you go), snow cover (moderates soil freezing and insulates roots), humidity, frost, or soil moisture.  Probably the biggest drawback is that it does not consider how warm your summer will be.  The classic example is comparing the Shetland Islands north of Scotland and southern Alabama.  Both are listed as bewteen Hardiness Zone 8-9.  However, the Shetland Islands are sub-artic and southern Alabama is sub-tropical.  There are almost no plants that can grow in both places.

AHS Plant Heat Zone Map

The variations in summer heat around the globe is what prompted the American Horticultural Society to create their Plant Heat Zone Map.  The AHS Plant Heat Zones are listed from 1 through 12.  The zones are based on the average number of days per year that the temperature will rise above 86 degrees F (30 C) as this is the temperature above which plants start to show heat stress.  This is a great tool to augment the Hardiness Zones in your planning.  You can dowload a PDF of the AHS Plant Heat Zones here.  You can also search for your Heat Zone on this page by entering your zip code.

Sunset Climate Map

The last map that I want to share was produced by Sunset Magazine.  This company, which has a large gardening focus and has been around since 1898, divided the U.S. into 45 Climate Zones.  These zones are based on Latitude, Elevation, Ocean Influence, Continental Air Influence, Mountains, Hills, Valleys, and Microclimates.  It is a much more ambitious undertaking.

Here is a searchable map to find your Sunset Climate Zone, but I prefer going to the Sunset website and selecting the U.S. region here, as it provides a map as well as information on that growing region. Sunset also provides a pretty substantial searchable plant database for their Climate Zones on this page

Combining Hardiness Zones, AHS Plant Heat Zones, and Sunset Zones, you will be able to more confidently chose plants that are well suited to your local conditions.  These are great tools for planning your Permaculture System.

Here is a link to my article on Hardiness Zones for the World.

For my reference, I also want to add a Pacific Northwest Hardiness Zone Map as well.  It is based on the 1990 data, but is still useful.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Plants for a Future


I hardly know where to begin with this website, but I strongly encourage you to get on the site and take some time to become familiar with it.  You will not be disappointed.  They recently went through a complete website design at the end of last year, and it is a huge improvement.  The site is far easier to navigate and looks very professional.

Over 20 years ago Ken and Addy Fern set up an experimental site in Cornwall, England.  Their goal was to document their research on edible and useful plants.  They eventually raised over 1,500 species on their land.  About 10 years ago, Ken created a database to organize his research.  In an unbelievable act of goodwill, Ken made his searchable database availabe to the public for free.  It contains valuable information on over 7,000 species of useful plants.

The database is searchable in many ways.  For example, you can search by Common Name, Latin Name, Habitat, or Edibility Rating (score of 1-5).  You can search by use.  For example Tea, Coloring (Dye), Fiber (like making rope), Wildlife Attractor, Nitrogen Fixer, etc.  There are also a bunch of traditional/herbal medicine search options.  Finally, you can search based on plant characterstics.  For example Evergreen/Deciduous, Size, Hardiness Zone, pH, Sun/Shade/Partial, Flowering type, and Pollinator to name a few.  You can find the database here.

There is a Blog and a Forum, both of which are very new and a huge Links page.

If you want a very high yield page, I would recommend their Top Rated Edible Plants page which highlights about 150 of the highest rated plants.  This is a good page to get you started using this wonderful site.

Plants for a Future is a great resource (I consider it almost vital) for designing an Edible Food Forest and any Permaculture System.

Monday, July 4, 2011

Permaculture Principles: Principle Two - Catch and Store Energy


Holmgren's Twelve Principles of Permaculture





Principle Two: Catch and Store Energy
Holmgren's Proverb for this Principle: Make hay while the sun shines.

Energy has a few definitions.  According to Webster's Dictionary, Energy is:
a) Vigrorous exertion of power; Effort
b) A fundamental entity of nature that is transferred between parts of a system in the production of physical change within the system and usually regarded as the capacity for doing work 
c) usable power (as heat or electricity)

The way we need to think of Energy in a Permaculture System is closer to that second definition.  Energy is that entity of nature that is transferred between parts of a system with the capacity for doing work.  Our job is to design systems that collects the energy before it can be transferred somewhere else where we cannot use it.  The other side of this is to avoid losing energy that we have already stored.

So how do we do this?

Fundamental design components that deal with this are Zones and Sectors.  I discussed Zones in this post.  Zones help preserve energy we already have stored in ourselves (from the food we eat - avoiding buring calories) by placing the things we use most closer to where we live.  I discussed Sectors in this post.  Sectors help us determine where outside energy is coming from (so we can capture it when it comes through) and where energy leaves our property (so we can harvest it before it leaves).

Energy on our properties include:
Sunlight - capture it with passive solar housing design, solar panels, solar water heating, solar cooking, and of course, plants! (see biomass below)
Wind - capture it with a variety of windmill designs
Water - capture it in ponds (see below) and with flow through micro-hydroelectric, capture it from roofs (see this post on Roof Rain Harvesting), with swales (see this post on Swales), and from road/path runoff.
Biomass - capture it in growing things: fruits, vegetables, logs, firewood, twigs for crafts, animal (meat, milk, and fiber), fish, honey, etc.

We can store our energy the following ways:
Batteries - Stored electricity from solar, hydro, wind generation
Food - By preserving foods with dehydration, canning, freezing, smoking, fermenting, etc. By making wine, beer, mead, etc. By using intensive rotational grazing of livestock to maximize foods for our animals
Water - Can be stored in the soil itself, or in dams, ponds, cisterns, etc.
Organic Matter - stored in the form of compost (produced from components on our property), reducing erosion with terraces, swales, and good land management practices, collecting debris and driftwood from streams that pass through our property
Heat - Good insulation in our buildings, well designed wind breaks that keep chilling winds from hitting our buildings, gardens, and livestock, stored firewood to use later
Plants - Can be stored as tubers and bulbs and seeds for future plantings
Money - Money is just an easily transferable form of energy that everyone agrees to use and has standard trading values.  Saving money is another way to save energy.  Properly handling our money, avoiding debt, and investing wisely are just more examples of catching and storing energy.

"Make hay when the sun shines" is used to remind us that we have windows of opportunity to capitalize and/or collect the energy that passes through or is produced in our Permaculture system.  We cannot make solar energy at night and we cannot preserve fruits after they have fallen off the tree and rotted.  By using principle number one (Observe and Interact), we can know when is the right time to capture that energy.

By developing systems that collect resources when they are abundant, we can use them in times of need.
- David Holmgren

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Dehydrate 2 Store - A Great Resource for Dehydration

 
I want to give a fantastic resource for learning how to dehydrate food.  Dehydrate2Store was started by a housewife who wanted to teach people about dehydrating.  It has now turned into a huge website and a great source of information.

Dehydrated Fruits and Veggies

For a long time dehydrated food has been sold to people who are interested in having food stored for a rainy day.  However, buying prepackaged dehydrated food is expensive!  This website will walk you through dehydrating your own food either from your own garden or from the grocery store.  There are great instructional videos and a bunch of recipes for using your dehydrated food.  Highly recommend this site.

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Principles of Permaculture: Principle One - Observe and Interact


Holmgren's Twelve Principles of Permaculture






Principle One: Observe and Interact
Holmgren's Proverb for this Principle: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

To design Permaculture Systems, we must use nature as our guide.  The only way to use nature as our guide is to actually observe what nature is doing.  Take the time to sit and observe!  It is not wasted time.  Remember that Permaculture is 90% thinking and 10% work (where modern agriculture is far too often the exact opposite). 

I think there are two components of observation.  The first component of observation is general observation - what are you seeing?  That is it.  It is very easy to jump up the mental ladder from this point, but it is important to just observe.  For instance, let's say we are sitting at the edge of a field, and we see rabbits coming through a hole in a fence.  It is easy to jump to thinking, "Ah, we have rabbits on our property.  If they continue to come in here, we are going to have to get rid of them or block them or something to protect the garden we want to plant.  Should we use a fence or a..." 

Instead, try keeping a journal.  Write down that, "the rabbits entered field A through fence B at the hole at 7:00 pm.  They went right to the clover and ate for 15 minutes before leaving the way they came as soon as an owl swooped down and almost caught a young rabbit."

The second component of observation is the more scientific data collecting.  What are the high and low temperatures throughout the year?  What direction do the seasonal winds blow?  Where does the sun cast shade in each season?  What soil types do we have on our property?  What natural vegetation is there now (trees, shrubs, vines, etc.)?  What animals visit our property (deer, rabbit, species of birds, insects, etc.)?  Where does rain collect and/or run on our property? 

These are just a few of the site specific data we should collect before implementing a Permaculture System.  Bill Mollison recommended observing your site for a full year before doing anything else.  Most of us will not want to do this, but most of us can do this.  I highly recommend it.  It is what I am planning on doing.

Interaction is the second part of this first principle.  This is where we take action on the observations we made.  This is where we implement a change.  Using our example of the rabbits from above we may decide we are not going to keep a garden and want to increase your rabbit population to provide meat for our family without having to raise the livestock directly.  Then we could sow extra clover to attract and sustain them.  Or if we did want to keep the garden but didn't want to put in a fence, we could try to encourage the owls in our area.  We may decide to keep that dead tree the owls use (since we saw that owl fly over to the dead tree after it missed the rabbit).  We may decide a little depredation of our garden is worth a healthy ecosystem.  There are many possibilities.  Just remember Priciple Nine: Use Small and Slow Solutions

After we implement the change (i.e. our interaction), we must go back and observe again.  Did it work?  What other outcomes developed from this change?  Can we modifiy this more?  Do we need to?  Should we return things to how they were? 

Observation and Interaction are the first principle for a great reason... it is vital to creating a successful Permaculture System.  I'll end with a few quotes by David Holmgren about this first principle:

By taking the time to engage with nature we can design solutions that suit our particular situation.
- David Holmgren

Good design depends on a free and harmonious relationship between nature and people, in which careful observation and thoughtful interaction provide the design inspiration.
- David Holmgren

The proverb "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder" reminds us that we place our own values on what we observe, yet in nature, there is no right or wrong, only different.
- David Holmgren

Friday, July 1, 2011

Permaculture Projects: Attracting Bats

The Little Brown Bat.
The most common bat in North America.
3-4 inches long and less than 12 inch wingspan.

Attracting bats?  Oh, yeah!  I love bats.  Hopefully, after reading this post, you will at least gain an appreciation for this much maligned denizen of the night.

In the last few weeks, there has been a huge increase in mosquitos where I live.  Last year at about this time, I could watch the bats hunting at night.  This year, I haven't seen any bats.  I am hoping that this is just temporary.  I have had to treat cellulitis from infected mosquito bites about five times in the last week alone.  I have never before had this many infected bites clustered in a short time like this.  There are real consequences to not having bats in your local area, and this is just one of them.

The beautiful Hoary Bat.
A common North American bat, and the only bat in Hawaii.

Quick Bat Facts:
  • Bats are the number one predator of insects.
  • One bat can eat 2,000 - 6,000 insects... per night!  Reread that last sentence.  Wow!
  • In one summer (let's say 90 days), that is over half a million insects... for one bat!
  • Bats are the primary pollinator of the agave plant.  Tequila comes from agave.  No bats... no tequila!
  • Vampire Bats do exist... not in North America, and they are quite rare.
  • About half of all bats are endangered or threatened... primarily due to loss of habitat, pollution, and human persecution.
  • Bats rarely contract rabies... less than 40 people have gotten rabies from a bat in the last 50 years.  Worldwide, over 50,000 people die each year from rabies, and the most common vector is dogs.
  • Bats are not blind.
  • Bats are not attracted to humans, and will avoid humans at all costs.
  • Bat guano (manure) is a great fertilizer with a very high concentration of nitrogen.

Townsend's Big-Eared Bat.
Endangered in Eastern North America

I have stood in a field both in Nigeria and in Turkey with bats swooping all around me.  They were feeding on the insects flying over the fields just after dusk.  I could feel the breeze a few times as they flew close, but they never touched me.  I am talking about dozens of bats in a small field, in the dark, with no collisions with me or each other while picking insects out of midair.  They are amazing flyers!


Installing a bat house!

Attracting Bats
How do you attract bats to your property?  Build bat houses!  This will keep insect populations down in your local area and will provide you with a source for great compost.

The Organization for Bat Conservation is a great resource for information on bats.  They also have free plans for building bat houses as well - click here for a link to their PDF download page.

Here is a great interview with the Rob Mies, the co-founder and director of The Organization for Bat Conservation.  Aired on The Survival Podcast.

Not all bat houses will be used.  If you live in a cool climate, they may stay in the bat house for the spring-fall, but will hibernate somewhere else.  Where you place the bat house is determined by where you live.  Again, The Organization for Bat Conservation has a great page explaining where to place your bat house.

The Spotted Bat
An elusive and little known bat of North America.

So, I am a huge fan of bats.  They are a huge asset and, to me, an integral component of a well-designed Permaculture System.  Consider attracting bats to your property today!