Permaculture Projects: Flower/Plant Press

A simple, and simple to make, flower and plant press.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_aiPEj8evWN8/SXia2IXPIGI/AAAAAAAABU0/cBVSBqlLRgQ/s400/flowerpress+pic+for+blog5.jpg

This is a project I plan to implement as soon as I can after moving to my land – the land I have not bought yet!

I love botany.  I love just about all there is to do with plants.  But, gosh, there are a lot of them!  I know I am much better than the average person at identifying plants; however, there is so much that I do not know.  One of the problems I have found with living all over the world, is that I have never become very good at identifying more than a handful of plants native to that one area.  Certain plants, especially certain species or genus of trees, are common enough that I can identify them fairly easily, but when it comes to shrubs and wildflowers… that is where I am at a lost.  I can only say, “Hey look at this… pretty, blue flower!”  so many times before it really bothers me that I do not know that name of it.

Orange Coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida) specimen page.

http://www.rhs.org.uk/Media/Images/Herbarium/Rudbeckiafulgida_P?width=243

My goal is to document every plant on my land.  I want to be able to identify it and know it like an old friend.  One way I am going to do this is with a plant/flower press.  I want to collect leaves, flowers, seeds, and fruit (if produced) from every plant on my property.  For fruit or other parts that will spoil, I plan on taking photographs.  Well, actually, I plan on taking photographs of everything specimen as well, but there is so much more you can get from a dried specimen than you can from a photograph.  Ideally, I will have the dried specimens mounted on a small piece of cardboard, sealed in plastic with a desiccant, labeled, and placed in a “catalog” along with photos and documentation of the cultivation and natural history of that plant - my own small herbarium.

Beautiful specimen page of a rare tree from Australia.

Grampians Gum (Eucalyptus verrucata)

http://u21museums.unimelb.edu.au/museumcollections/melbourne/images/herbarium_imageM.jpg

Do I need to go to this trouble?  By no means.  However, I think it will be a fun project.  I think it will guarantee that I know and can identify the plants on my land. It will make me do the research to identify every possible function of that plant that may be beneficial to me – one of the goals of Permaculture.  I think it will be a great way to teach my kids the science of taxonomy and identification and the skills of photography and plant preservation.  It may also produce some beautiful pieces that blur the line between science and art.

This plant is native to Asia but has escaped cultivation in the U.S.

Glossy Privet (Ligustrum lucidum)

http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/images/ligluc/ligluc2.jpg

Permaculture Plants: Walnut Trees

What may be the largest Black Walnut tree in the world on Sauvie Island, Oregon.

Note the man standing to the right of the base of the tree.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3e/Sauvie_island_black_walnut.JPG

Common Name: Walnut (Black, English, Persian, Carpathian)
Scientific Name:

Juglans nigra (Black Walnut)

Juglans regia (English/Persian Walnut, Carpathian Walnut)

Family: Juglandaceae

Comparison of Black Walnut (left) to English/Persian Walnut (right)

Each plate contains all meat from 10 walnuts of each species

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/info_treenutsf1.jpg

Description:
This very large deciduous tree is a popular nut and lumber tree.  There are 21 species of tree in the Juglans genus.  The most commonly grown tree for nuts is the English or Persian Walnut.  The Carpathian Walnut is a more cold-hardy variety of the English/Persian Walnut, but many people consider them interchangeable.  In the United States, the Eastern Black Walnut is a very common tree for nuts, which is prized for its stronger flavor but much more difficult extraction; however, it may be even more valued for its high quality wood from a relatively fast growing tree.  Walnuts are great shade trees, great nut producers, and may be considered a wise investment for your children or grandchildren.

English Walnut 1901 - A.W. Mumford 

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/w/walnut06-l.jpg

History:
The English/Persian Walnut is native to Central Asia.  Alexander the Great introduced this tree to Macedonia and Greece in the 4th century B.C.  The Romans continued this spread throughout Europe, England, and northern Africa.  It was introduced to the Americas in the 17th century by colonists.

The Black Walnut is native to the eastern United States.  It was introduced to Europe in 1629 to be used primarily as a high quality wood tree.  It is more cold-hardy than the English/Persian Walnut.

Trivia:

• Walnuts are the second larges nut crop in North America, second to almonds
• The Black Walnut has a stronger flavor and more crunch than the English/Persian Walnut but is way more difficult to extract the nut meat
• Walnuts can be tapped in spring and produces a sweet sap that can be drunk or boiled down into syrup
• The Black Walnut is a very valuable tree, and there are actually walnut tree poachers in the United States - one case involved a 55 ft (16 m) tree that was worth $2500 in 2004
• Many English/Persian Walnuts are planted on Black Walnut root stock
• The Black Walnut is the host plant for caterpillars of the luna and regal moths - beautiful

Beautiful Black Walnut in autumn.

http://www.grit.com/uploadedImages/GRT/articles/issues/2009-05-01/iWalnutTree.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Fresh eating (raw)
• Roasted
• Dried
• High quality lumber - very hard and very pretty, so it is used for flooring, furniture, and things like gunstocks, paddles, and tools

Secondary Uses:

• Walnut oil
• Hulls can make a brown dye for yarn, cloth, etc. and can even be used as a wood stain.
• Walnuts can be tapped like a maple tree to make syrup 
• Dynamic accumulator (Need definition) – Potassium, Phosphorus (Black Walnuts also accumulate Calcium)
• General insect pollen source
• Extracts from the green husks of walnuts have insecticidal properties
• Can be coppiced
• Medicinal uses: nuts contain antioxidants, appear to protect the arteries, and may slow cognitive-decline

English/Persian Walnuts about to break from their husks while still on the tree.

http://www.graftedwalnuts.co.uk/nutsontree.jpg

Black Walnuts ripen in their husks, but the husks do not break open on the tree.

http://www.olympiclawn.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/black-walnuts-forming.jpg

A ripe and recently husked Black Walnut nut - not an easy process!

http://www.wildmanstevebrill.com/JPEG'S/Plant%20Web%20Images/BlackWalnut%26Husk.jpg

Yield: 
Depends on the size and age of the tree:

Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) – 20 lbs (9 kg) to 100 lbs (45 kg)

Juglans regia (English/Persian Walnut) – up to 6 bushels (210 liters); produces more than J. nigra

Harvesting:

• Late August – October, depends on species, variety, and USDA Zone
• English Walnut nuts will fall from green husks when ripe.  Usually pick nuts from the ground or from nut catching nets if you place them and then shake the tree.  Commercial nut producers will have tree-shakers.
• Black Walnut nuts fall with husk in place.  The husk must be removed to get to the nut which must be shelled to get to the meat.  They nuts taste better when the husk is still green and not black.  There are many methods to extract the nut from the husk, but a hammer is often used.  Once the nut is extracted (this process will stain everything), toss out nuts that are black and oily.  Drop the rest of them in a bucket of water, and toss out the ones that float.  Drain the nuts and lay them out in a warm, dry location.  You can let them cure for over a month.  Toss out any that become moldy.  Then crack the nuts - a mounted vise works well - but be warned that cracking Black Walnut nuts can cause sharp shells to go flying.  All this work is worth it if you've ever really compared the taste of Black Walnuts with the more mild English/Persian Walnuts.

Storage: Dried nuts will store for 2-3 years

Black Walnut (top) and English/Persian Walnut (bottom) leaves

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/senior/fruits/images/large/walnutenglishblack.jpg

Black Walnut bark.  

English/Persian Walnut bark has wider grooving.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Black_Walnut_Bark_Detail.JPG

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone:

Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) – Zone 4-7

Juglans regia (Carpathian Walnut) – Zone 5-7

Juglans regia (English/Persian Walnut) – Zone 7-9

AHS Heat Zone: 4-9
Chill Requirement: 400-1,500 hours/units depending on the species and variety

Plant Type: Large Tree
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree
Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available.

Pollination: Some varieties are self-fertile (self-pollinating), and some are not.  Most will have higher yields if they can cross-pollinate
Flowering: Late spring (May)

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 4-5 years for grafted varieties, 4-12 years from seedling
Years to Maximum Bearing: 10-15 years
Years of Useful Life: 100+ years

The flowers of the walnut tree.

http://www.homeopathyandmore.com/med_images/Walnut.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 75-130 feet (25-40 meters) tall and wide, will grow taller if there is light competition
Roots: Taproot
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast (Black Walnuts grow faster)

Looking up into a Black Walnut.

http://organictobe.org/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/black-walnut.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%)
Moisture: Medium moisture.  The Black Walnut can tolerate less moist soils.
pH: 6.1-7.5 (Neutral to slightly alkaline)

Special Considerations for Growing: 

• Walnut roots and leaves produce juglone, a chemical that inhibits the growth of certain plants.  Make sure that surrounding trees and underplanted plants can tolerate juglone.
• Black Walnuts can be difficult to shell – just make sure you have a heavy-duty nut cracker.  I’ve read about people who just run over them with their car to minimize the hassle, but the hassle is worth it!
• Certain Walnut specific diseases exist.  Choose disease resistant varieties to avoid these problems.
• Rodents can be a problem for seedlings and young trees – they like to eat the bark.

Propagation:  
Usually grafted from improved varieties.  Walnuts grown from seed or wild stock typically have nuts that do not taste as good, and they also take longer to start producing a harvest; however, they are just fine for wood.  If starting from seed, they will need 90 days stratification.

Maintenance:
If planning on using as lumbar, then prune for a strong central leader.  Otherwise, they don’t need much once established.

Concerns:

• This is a large tree.  Only raise it if you have the space or plan on cutting it down before it gets too large.
• Walnut roots and leaves produce juglone, a chemical that inhibits the growth of certain plants.  Make sure that surrounding trees and underplanted plants can tolerate juglone.

http://www.gardeningblog.net/grow-pictures/walnuts.jpg

Book Review: Seed to Seed

 

Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners

From the product description on Amazon:
Seed to Seed is a complete seed-saving guide that describes specific techniques for saving the seeds of 160 different vegetables. This book contains detailed information about each vegetable, including its botanical classification, flower structure and means of pollination, required population size, isolation distance, techniques for caging or hand-pollination, and also the proper methods for harvesting, drying, cleaning, and storing the seeds. 

Seed to Seed is widely acknowledged as the best guide available for home gardeners to learn effective ways to produce and store seeds on a small scale. The author has grown seed crops of every vegetable featured in the book, and has thoroughly researched and tested all of the techniques she recommends for the home garden. 

I cannot add much more of a description of this book than this.  I cannot imagine a Permaculturist, Homesteader, or Vegetable Gardener not wanting this book on their bookshelf.  The skill of saving seeds is becoming a lost art.  It is way too easy to go out and buy new seeds.  However, with the influx of GMOs (genetically modified organisms), the new strains of diseases, and the increased speed of spreading pests through worldwide agricultural trade, knowing how to save your own seeds may be a vital skill to have.  

Even if you don't need to save your own seeds, just having the skill will allow you the opportunity to develop your own varieties of vegetables.  Care to name a tomato after your daughter or a warty, winter squash after an in-law?  

This is an easy to use book full of great information.  Yet another book I highly recommend adding to your agricultural library.

Judge Rules "No Fundamental Right to Produce and Consume Food"

Food Freedom at Risk under

Wisconsin Judge Patrick J. Fiedler

The following are accurate quotes from Wisconsin Judge Patrick J. Fiedler:

“no, Plaintiffs do not have a fundamental right to own and use a dairy cow or a dairy herd;”


“no, Plaintiffs do not have a fundamental right to consume the milk from their own cow;”


“no, Plaintiffs do not have a fundamental right to produce and consume the foods of their choice…”

ARE YOU KIDDING ME?

Now, some may say that this is being taken out of context.  The main issue being discussed was one of being able to consume raw milk... that is unpasteurized milk.  To be honest, I can see both sides of the argument when it comes to raw milk.  There appears to be some real health benefits, and there appears to be some real health risks.  My personal opinion is that, at a minimum, if a person wants to consume milk from their own cow, they they certainly should be able to do so.  But I am getting beside the point.

Regardless of your own ideas on consuming raw milk, the comments from this judge surpass the issues of raw milk.  In reality, they surpass even common sense.  We don't have the right to even produce our own food?  I can't think of how any of the most oppressive governments in history did not even allow their most impoverished citizens to grow a small garden.  Heck, even many prisoners of war were allowed to do this.

Here, we have a judge in a large agricultural state making statements like this.  If I didn't actually see the Dane County Circuit Court papers (you can read them here if you wish), then I wouldn't have believed it myself.

I try to steer clear of political topics here on TCP, but I need to share this.  I highly recommend you share this story as well.  People need to read about the asinine actions of this judge.  If you live under his jurisdiction, then you need to vote him out the first chance you get.

Here are some links to articles all reporting on this ridiculous ruling:

http://www.thecompletepatient.com/journal/2011/9/15/wi-judge-to-zinniker-ftcldf-no-fundamental-right-to-own-a-co.html

http://uk.ibtimes.com/articles/222456/20110930/wi-judge-declares-that-individuals-have-no-fundamental-right-to-own-cows-drink-raw-milk-au-ibtimes-c.htm

http://www.thenewamerican.com/usnews/constitution/9199-wis-judge-no-qfundamental-right-to-produce-and-consume-foodsq

http://www.piercecountyherald.com/event/article/id/39759/group/Opinion/

http://nation.foxnews.com/weird-news/2011/10/05/judge-dairy-farmers-can-t-drink-milk-their-cows

http://www.examiner.com/finance-examiner-in-national/judge-wisconsin-rules-citizens-do-not-have-rights-on-what-they-grow-or-eat


A big thank you to TCP blog reader Jessie M. for sending me news of this story.

Recipe: Apple-Quince Pie

http://cookingallday.files.wordpress.com/2008/02/12.jpg?w=300&h=300

Apple-Quince Pie
Since I just posted about Quinces and mentioned my holiday pie, I thought I would share that today. For more information about Apples and Quinces, read these previous posts.

Ingredients

• 4 quinces
• 4 apples
• 1 lemon
• ½ cup dried raisins or other berries
• 1 vanilla bean
• 1 cup sugar
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 pinch nutmeg
• 1 pinch ground cloves
• 1 pinch of ground black pepper
• 1 bottle of sweet white wine
• 2 Pie Crusts

Information on ingredients:

• Quince:  Use quinces that are just barely soft, completely yellow, and very fragrant. 
• Apples: Traditionally use Granny Smith, but just about any variety of apple will work just fine.  I’ve used Macintosh and Pink Lady and had good results.
• Lemon:  We just need the juice of one lemon.  Meyer Lemons are great with this, but any lemon will do.
• Dried Fruit:  I typically use a mix of dried golden raisins and other dried berries (cherries, blueberries, cranberries, currants, and a mix of other raisins), but I have also thrown in some fresh currants and fresh blackberries as well.
• Vanilla Bean: cut lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and use both the bean and the seeds.
• Black Pepper: The little bit we add will not be noticed as “spicy” but will enhance the flavor of the pie.
• Wine: Many types of wine can be used, and I don’t think I have used the same one twice.  A sweet dessert wine, like a Muscat, is great, but I have used a sweet Riesling with good success as well.
• Pie Crusts:  If you have the time, energy, good recipe, and good success, then make your own pie crusts.  I usually cheat and buy some premade, rolled pie crusts in the refrigerated section of the grocery store.  Since I typically make this pie with many other dishes as part of a holiday meal, I just don’t have the time or energy to make pie dough from scratch, although the few times I have, I think the pie is better for it.

Directions:

• Peel the quince.  Save the peelings.  Halve the quinces. 
• In a saucepan, add quince, peels, vanilla bean and seeds, ¼ cup sugar, wine, and just enough water to cover.
• Bring to a boil and then reduce to simmer.
• Simmer until quinces are tender when poked with a fork.
• Strain the contents of the saucepan, reserve the liquid, set aside the tender quince to cool.  Toss the peels and vanilla bean into the compost pile.
• Add the liquid back to the saucepan and continue to simmer until the liquid is reduced by about 2/3 to ¾.  The liquid should be like syrup.  Can take about 30 minutes.
• Add the dried fruit to the hot reduced poaching liquid and let soak.
• Preheat oven to 375 F.
• Peel and core the apples.  Cut into wedges.  Place in a bowl and toss with lemon juice.
• Add flour, remaining sugar, and spices to apples and toss to coat.
• Either with a melon baller or a pairing knife, seed and core the cooled quinces.  Slice into wedges.  Add to the apple mixture.  
• With a slotted spoon, strain out the soaked dried fruit (which should have plumped up a bit) and add the fruit to the apple mixture.  Toss to mix.  Make sure to save the remaining poaching liquid.  
• Place one pie crust in a 9 inch pie pan or dish (I have even seen a very similar pie made in a cast-iron skillet, but I have yet to try it).  
• Fill with the fruit mixture.  Add some of the poaching liquid.  I have also added a small pat of unsalted butter.
• Cover with remaining pie crust.  Pinch the crusts together to seal the edges.  Cut vents in the top in whatever pattern you choose.  Alternatively, you can cut the top crust into pieces and arrange them over the top leaving the center of the pie open – giving a more “rustic” appearance.  You can lightly brush with water and sprinkle with sugar if desired.
• Bake for about one hour to one hour and 20 minutes.  Until the crust is golden brown and the fruit juices are bubbling over.  You can always cover the pie with foil if the crust starts to brown too quickly – a lot depends on the type and quality of the oven you are using.  If you leave the center open, and the center begins to look dry, then you can spoon some of the poaching liquid on top a little at a time.
• Allow to cool for a bit – enough to allow the fruit to “set” a bit.  I like to serve it while it is still a little warm with a scoop of homemade or good quality vanilla ice cream.

Permaculture Plants: Quince Tree

The quince - an almost forgotten fruit.

http://www.arborix.be/sites/default/files/Quitte_Cydonia_oblonga.jpg

Common Name: Quince

Scientific Name: Cydonia oblonga

Family: Rosaceae

Cutting a quince can be tough - use a sharp knife and be careful.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__fyU4Zy1Tfo/TKoyLCcotuI/AAAAAAAAHWA/kR-Nxm3eJRI/s1600/QuinceCut.jpg

Description:

This ancient relative to the apple resembles yellowed, large, lumpy, more pear-shaped, and slightly fuzzy apples.  The fragrance of a few ripe quinces can fill a room with an intoxicatingly sweet aroma.  These are small trees or large shrubs that are treated much like apples in cultivation.  At least once in the late autumn or early winter, I will make an apple-quince pie with currants, and it is one of my favorite holiday desserts.  The smell in the kitchen when I have the quince poaching in sweet wine with vanilla beans is heavenly.  I can’t wait to grow my own quinces, because I can’t always find them in grocery stores.  Fortunately, they will stay fresh in the refrigerator for over a month, so I grab them when I see them.

Painting of a quince - Pancrace Bessa (1772-1835)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pancrace_Bessa00.jpg

History:

The Quince Tree is native to the central and eastern Middle East.  The cultivation of the quince likely preceded that of the apple, but it is difficult to ascertain.  Early writings which referred to the "apple" were likely referring to the quince instead.  The city-state of Kydonia on the island of Crete was where the quince was improved to the level we know today.  The scientific name of the quince is Cydonia and is an alternate spelling of Kydonia.

Trivia:

• True Quince (C. oblonga) should not be confused with “Flowering Quince” (Chaenomeles japonica) or the “Chinese Quince” (Pseudocydonia sinensis) which are more ornamental.
• Some believe the "forbidden fruit" in the Garden of Eden was a quince
• The Quince is associated with Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love.
• The Quince is known as the "fruit of love, marriage, and fertility".
• The Quince was given as a gift to the bride to sweeten her breath before entering the bridal chamber.
• The Quince is likely the "apple" in the Song of Solomon and the "golden apple" that Paris awarded Aphrodite.
• The word "marmalade" originally meant a quince jam and is derived from the Portuguese word "marmelo" - the Portuguese word for quince.
• Quince will change color from pale yellow to light pink or even deep red when cooked.
• Turkey produces one quarter of the world's quinces.

The "fuzz" is more apparent on some varieties than others.

http://www.7dayjuicediet.com/web-blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/quince-fruit1.jpg

USING THIS PLANT

Primary Uses:

• Fresh eating – only certain varieties.  Most need to be cooked first to get rid of the astrigency
• Poached
• Baked Goods
• Preserves, Jams, Jellies (great addition of flavor and aroma when mixed with other fruits; naturally high in pectin)
• Stewed with meats especially lamb, duck, and turkey
• Teas
• Wine, Cider

Secondary Uses:

• General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
• Specimen plant – beautiful, fragrant blossoms and older plants develop gnarled trunks
• Due to the intense fragrance, quince can be used as a room deodorizer 
• Quince leaves contain high levels of tannin and can be used for tanning
• Quince are regularly used as rootstock for pears

Yield: 1 bushel (35 liters), 75 lbs 

Harvesting: September - November.  Pick when the fruit is firm, fully yellow colored (no green), and fragrant.

Storage: Will store in a cool place (like a refrigerator) for 1-2 months.  Handle carefully as quinces can bruise easily even when hard.

Cydonia oblonga - Franz Eugen Kohler (1897)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/57/Koeh-049.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT

USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-9

AHS Heat Zone: 9-3

Chill Requirement: 50-450 hours/units depending on the species and variety

Plant Type: Small Tree to Medium-sized Shrub

Leaf Type: Deciduous 

Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree for small Forest Garden, Sub-Canopy (Understory) Tree, Shrub

Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available.  New varieties are resistant to many common diseases.

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile
Flowering: May-August depending on the variety and USDA Zone where it is planted

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 3-5 years, depends on the rootstock.  Smaller adult plants will bear sooner.
Years to Maximum Bearing: 5-10 years
Years of Useful Life: No good references for this, but considering its size and relatives, it can likely live to be at 30 years and maybe over 50 years

The quince blossom is much larger than that of apples.

http://wp.macfusion.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/quince-cydonia-oblonga.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT

Size: 10-20 feet (3-7 meters) tall and wide

Roots: Shallow and flat

Growth Rate: Medium

An older, but still very productive, quince tree.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2566/3849492562_fd06b566d0.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT

Light: Prefers full sun

Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%)

Moisture: Medium, however will be more susceptible to pests and disease in the shade

pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0)

Special Considerations for Growing: Tolerates juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives).  Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.

Propagation:  Usually grafted.  Will often root from cuttings. Seeds need at least 13 weeks stratification for germination

Maintenance:

Minimal.  Quince fruit mainly on the tips of shoots made the previous year.  After the initial framework is established (much like an apple tree), minimal pruning is required.  Light pruning to let in more light and air circulation will improve yields.

Concerns:

• Poisonous – Leaves and seeds contain a precursor to cyanide (large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic).
• Humid environments are ideal for quince leaf blight – consider resistant varieties.  This is the only significant disease for the quince.
• Since it is such a close relative to apples, many diseases and pests that affect apples can cause trouble for quinces, but usually at a much reduced rate since apples are a “weaker” plant.

A beautiful quince pie.

http://cookingallday.files.wordpress.com/2008/02/12.jpg?w=300&h=300

Permaculture Tips: Duct Tape Cure for Ants/Aphids in Fruit Trees

A Permaculture Tip is an idea that is derived from observing and interacting with nature.  It is simple.  It is safe.  It is effective.  It helps build a sustainable system of agriculture.  If you have any Permaculture Tips you would like to share, please let me know.  I will post it here, give you the credit, and post a link to your blog or website if you have one.  Email me here: kitsteiner@hotmail.com

Ant "harvesting" sugar from an aphid.

http://538357.cache1.evolutionhosting.com/antsandaphids/ants_aphids_sugar.jpg

The idea for this great tip comes from Steve Sysko in the Sept/Oct issue of Countryside and Small Stock Journal:

Ants climbing in and around your plants are common.  Most of the time, this is not a bad thing at all.  Sometimes, this can even be a good thing.

I recently heard of how one gardener believes that the black ants in his garden have taken care of his squash vine borer pests.  In his previous gardens in another part of the U.S., he had a lot of damage from squash vine borers, and he knew the telltale signs of infestation and damage.  However, upon moving to his new location and starting a garden, he has not had this issue. He has seen the characteristic burrow in the base of the vine, but the burrow was shallow and had black ants going in and out.  His thought is that these black ants find, kill, and eat the young larvae before it does any damage.  Hard to know if that is true, but if it is, this is pretty amazing.

However, you need to pay attention when you see ants climbing around on your fruit trees.  A few here and there are no problem, but if you see a lot, you may need to be concerned.  Check closely at the shoots and small leaves for aphids.

Ant defending his aphid herd from a ladybug.

http://ic2.pbase.com/g4/82/451782/3/63225289.prFinvvo.jpg

Ants and aphids can develop a symbiotic relationship.  The aphids excrete a sweet substance that the ants eat, and the ants will protect the aphids from predators.  It is almost like a bunch of dairymen caring and protecting their herds of dairy cattle.

If this is happening in your fruit trees, significant reduction in growth and fruit yield can result.  If you can stop the ants from protecting the aphids, which love to eat your fruit trees, then this allows the natural predators (ladybugs, lacewings, etc.) to kill the aphids.

How can you do this without chemicals, toxins, and poisons?  Duct Tape!

Wrap the base of the tree (about 3-4 feet off the ground) with duct tape, sticky side out, for about 8-10 inches in height.  You may need to change the duct tape every few days if either the duct tape dries out (and becomes less sticky), or if the ants that get stuck create a living bridge for the remaining ants to cross over.  Steve comments that it is easier to place another layer of duct tape over the previous one instead of removing the first and adding the second.  Eventually, the ants give up and move elsewhere.  If you had ant and aphid issues previously, you can set up duct tape protection on your trees in the spring before the ants emerge.  This prevents them from getting established, and hopefully does that same with your aphids.  Steve comments that after doing this for a few seasons, the ants never returned.

I love this idea!  A great Permaculture Tip!