WHIP: Wildlife Habitat Incentive Program

An Oregon riparian are restored through WHIP.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2490/5783827582_1844e36acc.jpg

WHIP (The Wildlife Habitat Incentive Program) is a government program run by NRCS (the National Resource Conservation Service) in the United States.  This program provides money to landowners to help them protect, enhance, and/or develop critical wildlife habitat.  It is completely free money; it is a cost-share program.  Meaning, the landowner needs to invest some, and the organization (i.e. the government) will pay the rest.

WHIP will generally pay 50% to 75% of the cost of approved expenses, and they will generally not pay more than $5,000 per year per landowner.  WHIP will chose who to assist based on the potential environmental benefit.  If your land is identical to the protected national or state park you border, then it is unlikely that you will be selected.  However, if you have, for instance, an area that could be improved to be a wetland habitat for migrating water birds, then you have a good shot.  It just depends.

There is a minimum of a 5-10 year commitment on the landowners part to maintain the agreed upon project.  I believe more funding, or higher percentages, may be available for longer-term commitments. The landowner must also agree to allow WHIP personnel to visit the area to verify the project is being run as agreed.

While this may be too much government interference for some, others may have a plot of land that is not useful to them as is, and WHIP can help transform it into a mini wildlife sanctuary.  If you are interested in learning more, there is a WHIP program in each state.  You will need to search for it under the NRCS, Conservation and Environmental Protection Division.  Just google search "WHIP", "NRCS" and your state, and you should find it easily after that.

Book Review: The Sibley Guide to Trees

 

  The Sibley Guide to Trees

I previously discussed David Sibley’s book, The Sibley Guide to Birds, which is my favorite birding book of all time.  David Sibley put his skills of observation, painting, and teaching back to work to develop The Sibley Guide to Trees.  I believe this book will be the mainstay of tree guides for a long time.

What I liked so much about his bird guide book is that Sibley is able to find the one or two things that make one species unique from all other similar species.  I have found some trees to be much more difficult to identify than birds, because some species are so similar and trees can change form to some degree based upon the conditions (or teroir) they are grown.  Sibley beautifully cuts through this confusion and gives us key points to find to identify each tree.  Also, Sibley does not just include the common trees of North America, but he includes the uncommon and introduced species as well.

I am thrilled to share this book on my blog.  I have waited a long time for a tree guide that is easy to use, reliable, inclusive, but most importantly, I wanted a tree guide that works.  I believe this is it.  I highly recommend this book!

Here are a few great videos of the author explaining his book.  I love the second interview... he is a genius!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ0Y8t99ozI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX-LSTGAOPc

Recipe: Whipped Honey

Whipped Honey... You've got to try it!

http://www.honeylocator.com/images/interface/form-whipped.jpg

For anyone who has ever tried Whipped Honey, you understand why this form of honey is so popular.  Of course, regular liquid honey is the most commonly sold and used form of honey, but whipped honey is a fantastic way to enjoy this sweet treat.

Perfect accompaniment for breakfast or light snack.

http://www.goldendelighthoney.com/Spun_Honey.jpg

What is Whipped Honey?
Whipped Honey is also called Creamed Honey, Spun Honey, Churned Honey, Candied Honey, Set Honey, Honey Fondant, and Spreadable Honey.  These names suggest that maybe some ingredient was added to the honey or that the honey was churned or spun.  In reality, Whipped Honey is nothing more than a type of crystallized honey.

Most of us are familiar with how honey crystallizes.  It often occurs around the lid, but honey crystallization can occur throughout the entire jar.  This is not a sign of spoiling or bad honey.  All honey can and will crystallize if old enough or cold enough.  You can reverse this by placing the jar or bottle of honey in some warm water or a sunny window.  The quality will still remain good, because honey truly never spoils unless it is contaminated.

The crystals in our old or cold honey are large crystals.  You can eat this honey.  It is crunchy.  I actually like it on a peanut butter and honey sandwich.  In contrast, the crystals in Whipped Honey are much smaller.  They are so small that they give the honey a smooth and spreadable consistency.  Also, these small crystals prevent the formation of the larger, harder, and crunchier crystals in the honey.

The Dyce Method
The first practical method of making Whipped Honey was developed in 1928 by Elton .J. Dyce, Ph. D., professor of Apiculture at Ontario Agricultural College, while he was working at Cornell University.  After finely grinding large, hard honey crystals, he added between 5-10% of the fine crystals to 90-95% regular, liquid honey.  The crystals are gently stirred into the liquid honey and allowed to rest at a temperature of 57 F (14 C).  In about a week, the "seed" crystals have converted most of the liquid honey to Whipped Honey.  The "seed" crystals don't actually "reproduce" themselves as some have suggested, but it is rather a chemical/physical reaction that spreads through the honey, and the "seed" crystals act as the impetus.

If you have the right spot, making Whipped Honey is very easy!

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_qz9aE02ggbw/SReyR6-h8qI/AAAAAAAAA9M/5WHCHriQlRc/s320/whippedhoney.jpg

Making Whipped Honey at Home
We can make Whipped Honey relatively easily at home if we have a place that stays at a steady cool temperature of 55-59 F, ideally at 57 F.

• Find a location with a steady, cool temperature.
• Purchase a good quality Whipped Honey - this will be your "seed" or "starter".
• Take a clean jar and fill it 90-95% with liquid honey.
• Fill the remainder of the jar with Whipped Honey (less than 5% will produce coarse crystals, and more than 10% is not needed).
• Stir the Whipped Honey through the liquid honey.
• Let sit in the cool location for 1-2 weeks.

Previous related articles:

Honey

Beekeeping

Permaculture Tips: Use Your Car As a Dehydrator

Use Your Car As a Dehydrator
From Organic Gardening June/July 2011

Fresh figs being dehydrated in the window of a car!

http://thetanglednest.com/2009/08/drying-food-in-car/

Ginger Li from Homewood, Illinois explains how she dehydrates mint, basil, kale, Swiss chard, cilantro, dill, etc. by placing them in a single layer on a cookie sheet.  She placed the cookie sheets on the seats of her car, parked in the sun, with the windows just barely cracked to vent the humid air.

I read this as a Reader Comment in Organic Gardening, but I ended up finding many references to it on the internet.  Apparently, this is a growing trend.

Fantastic idea!  Beautiful way to utilize free energy!

A Permaculture Tip is an idea that is derived from observing and interacting with nature.  It is simple.  It is safe.  It is effective.  It helps build a sustainable system of agriculture and life in general.  If you have any Permaculture Tips you would like to share, please let me know.  I will post it here, give you the credit, and post a link to your blog or website if you have one.  Email me here: kitsteiner@hotmail.com

Permaculture Plants: Roses, an Introduction to Rose Types

Large-Flowered Climbing Rose: Graham Thomas Rose

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-szS1CL1HCNk/TC9pQzWahrI/AAAAAAAAGnQ/-lP8PEB_woc/IMG_6811.JPG

I recently received this email from a reader:

Hi John, this isn't actually a temperate climate question, but I'd love to hear your thoughts anyways. I've just moved into a new home in Southern Turkey where the climate is similar to that of southern California. I'm hoping to experiment with some permaculture projects in my living space and want to start with what's already there. There is a large Bougainvillea bush ("paper flower") in the back yard and roses in the front yard. Do you have any insights from your reading about the benefits and uses of these two plants in particular and how they as ornamentals might fit into a permaculture system? 

I tackled the Bougainvillea plant in the post, so feel free to take a look at it if you are interested.  

In general, Roses are found all over the world.  There are native Roses from Asia, Europe, North America, and Africa.  Roses are a perfect topic for this blog.  The topic of Roses is really quite big, so I thought I would break it up in smaller, more digestible chunks.  I'll start off with a general introduction to the Rosa species, and then I will move on to more specific species and important aspects of Rose care that would be important for a Permaculturist and/or Homesteader.  So here goes...

Rambling Rose: American Pillar Rose

http://www.gardensandplants.com/images/plants/Rosa%20American%20Pillar.jpg

Common Name: Rose

Scientific Name: Rosa species…

Family: Rosaceae

There are over 100 species of roses in the world, and this number may be closer to 150, but botanists cannot decide, and there are thousands of varieties or cultivars of these species.

There are four major types of roses:


1. Climbing Roses: 

These roses don’t really climb, but they have long and flexible canes that can be trained and/or attached to fences, trellises, and other garden structures. (pictured above)

• Large-Flowered Climbing Roses – thick canes, grow to 10 feet long, large flowers, blooms through the summer (repeat-blooming).  Many different flower bloom shapes and colors
• Rambling Roses – thin canes, grow 20+ feet long, small flowers, bloom in early summer (once-blooming)

Shrub Rose: Zephirine Drouhin

http://rosenotes.typepad.com/.a/6a010535bf3807970c011168876911970c-pi

2. Shrub Roses: 

Broad, upright shrub that grows 4 – 12 feet tall.  Most are very hardy.  There are both once-blooming and repeat-blooming species and varieties.

Groundcover Rose: Alba Meidland

http://www.rosesuk.com/gfx/media/home/aroses/alba_meidiland.jpg

3. Groundcover Roses: 

As the name implies, these are low growing, prostrate, creeping roses.  There are both once-blooming and repeat-blooming species and varieties.

Bush Rose - Hybrid Tea Rose: Elle Hybrid

http://jugalbandi.info/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/dsc02014copy.jpg

Bush Rose - Polyantha: White Pet

http://homepage.mac.com/passepartoot/ForGardenWeb/WhitePet01.jpg

Bush Rose - Floribunda: Rosa Friesia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rosa_Friesia.jpg

4. Bush Roses: 

Bush roses include the majority of roses in the world.  There are seven subtypes or subgroups of Bush Rose, and each subtype has dozens to hundreds of varieties of each.

• Hybrid Tea Roses – narrow buds on a long stem, large many petaled flowers, repeat-blooming, 3-5 feet tall.
• Polyantha Roses – very hardy, short bushes with small flowers in large clusters, repeat-blooming.
• Floribunda Roses – developed from crossing hybrid tea roses with polyantha roses, very hardy, short bushes with medium-sized flowers in clusters, repeat-blooming
• Grandiflora Roses – tall, narrow bush that grows to 5-6 feet, large flowers, long stems, clusters, repeat-blooming summer through autumn
• Miniature Roses – very small and hardy bush with small leaves and flowers, repeat-blooming
• Heritage or Old Roses – a very large group of roses grouped together because they were developed before 1867 (the date when the Hybrid Tea Rose was introduced).  Heritage Roses have a variety of forms in plant and flower.  Some are once-blooming, and some are repeat-blooming.  Some are hardy and some are not.  Many varieties of bloom shapes and colors.
  - Albas
  - Bourbons
  - Centifloras
  - China Roses
  - Damasks
  - Eglanteria
  - Gallicas
  - Mosses
  - Portlands
  - Etc
• Tree or Standard Roses – This is more a style of rose than a specific variety.  If any rose is grafted onto a specially grown trunk (ranges from 1-6 feet tall), and formed into a “tree” shape, then it is considered a Tree Rose.

Bush Rose - Grandiflora: Wild Blue Yonder

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_VhRlkv6uM_k/SM8zEdtTfXI/AAAAAAAAEx8/k3fKNJ7LLg8/s1600-h/Wild+Blue+Yonder+RoseSm.jpg

Bush Rose - Miniature: Mixed variety

http://www.rainforest2548.org/spr1.jpg

Heritage or Old Rose - Alba Rose: Unknown variety

http://orchidflowers.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/alba-rose1.jpg

Heritage or Old Rose - Bourbon: Louise Odier

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EWuR-VzwybY/SYe1Y0GAH5I/AAAAAAAAAqM/CzPw0DIBJZg/s400/Rose+Louise+Odier.JPG

Tree Rose: Weeping Pink

http://www.directgardening.com/large/7980_l.jpg

Landscape Roses

Another informal type of rose exists.  These are the Landscape Roses.  These roses have been developed to be easily cared for, very hardy, disease resistant, low maintenance, minimal pruning, and long, repeat blooming.  That is a lot going for them, for sure; however, they do lack the beauty, fragrance, history, and charm of the other more (and sometimes much more) demanding roses.  Examples include

• Knockout – shrub rose
• Carefree – shrub rose
• Simplicity – shrub rose
• Flower Carpet – groundcover rose
• Blanket – groundcover rose
• Bonica
• Livin’ Easy – floribunda rose

Landscape Roses: Knockout Roses

http://jtpubs.com/roses/roseimages/KnockoutRoseScene.jpg

Recycling Tires in Our Gardens... I Won't Do It

A classic tire planter

http://www.trunity.net/files/56801_56900/56867/file_56867.jpg

There has been a growing trend in "environmentally conscious" individuals to use old tires for a multitude of garden and household project.  While I am a huge proponent of recycling, reusing, and repurposing, (see my post on Permaculture Principle Six: Produce No Waste), I have a growing concern about the health risks of using old tires.

There have been a number of studies that have shown that using old tires may not be such a good idea.  There are two main issues with old tires.  First, tires contain heavy metals, zinc, rubber chemicals, vulcanization chemicals (from the process of vulcanizing rubber), and other pollutants.  Second, these potentially dangerous chemicals have been shown to leach from tires when placed in wet soil… like the wet soil found in a garden.  While it is true that whole tires will leach less pollutants than shredded tires, but it is still likely to occur no matter what form the tire is in.

Another garden planted with tires.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/3897917376_a954962c8f.jpg

I don’t know if you’ve ever seen a dumped tire in a field or in the woods.  I’ve seen a number of these discarded, or illegally dumped, tires.  About half the time, I smell the tire before I even see it.  To me, this is just more confirmation that these tires are off-gassing or polluting the environment around them.

I wish I had a great answer for what we should do with old tires, but I don’t.  What I do know is that I will not be adding old tires to my garden, my food forest, or my land.

REFERENCES:

Liu, H., Mead, J., Stacer, R. Chelsea Center For Recycling And Economic Development. (1998). Environmental Impacts Of Recycling Rubber In Light Fill Applications: Summary & Evaluation Of Existing Literature University of Massachusetts

Sullivan, J. (2006) An Assessment of Environmental Toxicity and Potential Contamination from Artificial Turf using Shredded or Crumb Rubber 

Permaculture Plants: Malabar Spinach

Photos of my Malabar Spinach

Common Name: Malabar Spinach

Scientific Name: Basella alba, Basella rubra

Family: Basellaceae

The tender leaves and shoots of Malabar Spinach are great fresh!

Description:

Malabar spinach is not actually related to spinach at all.  It is a heat-loving, vining, perennial plant with heart-shaped leaves from the tropics and sub-tropics.  It is often grown in more Temperate Climates as a heat-loving annual substitute for spinach.  It is considered a succulent (a plant that stores water in their leaves and stems), and it is used much like spinach, although I believe the taste is not very similar when raw.  Although when cooked, it does indeed taste like spinach.

It is said that Malabar Spinach has a mucilaginous texture.  This has a lot of negative connotations.  I think a better word is "slippery".  It actually has a very pleasant mouth feel to it.  I would describe it as crunchy and juicy when raw.  The taste is slightly peppery with a bit of a citrusy flavor with hints of earthy spinach to it.  Apparently, the red stemmed version (Basella rubra) is more mild in flavor than the green (Basella alba).  I have only grown and tasted Basella rubra, so I cannot speak from experience on the all green version.  As I said above, once cooked, it tastes much like spinach, maybe a little stronger.

History:

The name, Malabar, likely refers to the northern areas of Kerala state in India.  This at least is fitting, since it is thought that Malabar Spinach originated in India (although some research suggests Indonesia).  It is a very popular green vegetable in India, Southeast Asia, China, and Africa.

Trivia:

• This is a great salad green replacement when the temperatures soar in the summer and our lettuces are wilting and ready to bolt.
• Malabar Spinach is very high in vitamins A and C.
• Malabar Spinach is high in calcium and iron.

Malabar Spinach using my fig tree as a trellis.

USING THIS PLANT

Primary Uses:

• Fresh - Young leaves and the top 5-8 inches of shoots can be eaten raw.  Used in salads.
• Cooked - Older leaves should be cooked as they have a rougher texture.  It is more like spinach in look and flavor when cooked.  It holds its shape a lot better than spinach when it is cooked.  Can be substituted for cooked spinach or chard.

Secondary Uses:

• Thickening agent.  Here is where the "mucilaginous" part of Malabar Spinach is very helpful, kind of like okra, in soups, stews, and curries.
• The red-purple juice from the berries can be used a a food dye and ink - it will stain!

Yield: Higher with more heat and with more pinching off of shoots and flowers

Harvesting: Whenever you want!  

Storage: Should be used immediately.  Does not seem to store well for more than a few days after picked.

The deep red vines and pink flowers contrast beautifully with the dark green leaves.

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT

USDA Hardiness Zone: Killed by frost, although some report established plants can withstand 5 F (-14 C).

Plant Type: Vine

Leaf Type: Deciduous 

Forest Garden Use: Fast growing, heat loving annual vine in Temperate Climates.  Perennial vine in Sub-Tropical, Tropical Climates, heated greenhouses, or possibly as a potted indoor plant.  

Cultivars/Varieties: Basella alba is all green.  Basella rubra has red stems, is prettier, and is likely just a variety of Basella alba.

Flowering: Mid-Summer

Malabar Spinach is a fast growing vine.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT

Size: 5-6 feet in a summer, easily.  Up to 12 feet in a long summer, and some report up to 30 feet if grown as a perennial.

Growth Rate: Fast if there is heat.  Large plant in 8-10 weeks.

Older leaves are a great cooked spinach or chard substitute.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT

Light: Prefers full sun

Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%), but grows much slower

Moisture: Medium

pH: Prefers fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.8)

Special Considerations for Growing: 

Give it something to grow on (trellis or tree) and your yields will be higher, easier, and free from dirt.

Propagation:  Pretty easily grown from seed.  Some will recommend soaking the seed in water overnight to improve germination rates, but I have not found that to be necessary.  Seems to prefer direct seeding when temperatures remain above 60 F (15 C), but I have transplanted with success.  Seeds can be saved from ripened fruit (small dark purple berries) - clean and dry the seeds.  Malabar Spinach is also easily grown from cuttings as it roots easily.

Maintenance:

Minimal.  Cut back severely to keep it in check if you live in a frost-free zone.  If there are no nematodes, then this plant has almost no pests.

Concerns:

• If you live in a frost-free area, this vine can grow like crazy.  Some may call it invasive.
• Reportedly susceptible to nematodes.
• Reportedly susceptible to a fungus that destroys the leaves and can infect beets and chard as well.