Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Organic Fertilizers: Blood Meal

Blood Meal is the highest natural source of Nitrogen

What is it?
Blood Meal is a dry powder made from blood.  Typically, the source is blood from cattle processing plants.  The blood is mixed with an anticoagulant and then spun to separate the plasma from the red blood cells.  The red blood cells are then sprayed into a low heat kiln where a powder is formed.  This is the finished product of Blood Meal.

What is the primary benefit?
Blood Meal is a great source of nitrogen, the highest natural source of nitrogen.  It is typically used for high nitrogen utilizing plants.  Any plant that fruits or any fast growing green plant often uses a lot of nitrogen.  If our plants are looking yellow, application of a high nitrogen fertilizer like Blood Meal will often make our garden green and lush again.

How is it used?
It can be added to the soil at anytime of the year, but typically it is used during the growing season.  It is typically sprinkled over the surface of the soil, or it can be worked/blended into the soil.  It can also be mixed in a high carbon compost heap (one that has a lot of "brown" material, and not enough "green" material).  It is a rapid release fertilizer, and typically reapplication is not needed more often then every four months.  The nitrogen will be released faster in more moist conditions.  It should not be used on seedlings or plants that can "burn" from too much or too high levels of nitrogen.  Blood Meal is soluble in water, and it can be mixed with water to be used as a liquid fertilizer.  Some people will use it to deter rabbits (vegetarians).  However, other animals, like dogs and racoons (carnivores and omnivores), may be attracted to Blood Meal.  If it is going to be used as a rabbit deterrent, it may be more effective if used in small containers instead of spread into the soil.

Application:
If you soil has adequate nitrogen levels: 10 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has medium nitrogen levels: 20 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has low nitrogen levels: 30 lbs per 1,000 square feet
or
about 4 oz per square yard

Composition:
NPK Ratio:  11-0-0, 12-0-0, 13-1-0, or other similar variations depending on the source... either way, it is the highest natural source of nitrogen.


A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:
Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Smoked Duck

The finished smoked duck... amazing!

Duck has a reputation in the United States of being hard to cook.  Many people don't like duck  This is mainly due to people poorly cooking it.  How many of you have had duck at someone's house?  Greasy and smothered in orange sauce?  Who would want to eat that?  Uh... not me!

The other experience most others have had is at a Chinese restaurant.  You can often get really good duck at a Chinese restaurant... IF they know what they are doing.  It can be fantastic.  However, it can be really bad as well.

I have always liked duck.  I plan on raising my own ducks in the future, so I thought I would experiment a bit and try to find some alternate ways to prepare duck.  I had actually never heard of smoked duck before I had decided to get some ducks for my smoker.  After I had read a bit online, I found out that there were a number of people who were also smoking duck.  Not a lot, but enough for me to get some ideas of what I was looking to do and confirming my own ideas as well.


Duck does have a lot of fat in it.  This is not a problem.  It gives it a lot of flavor.  But we don't want the fat to stay in the meat.  I am not too concerned about the fat content in a health context (since I saved the fat!), but too much fat left in duck meat results in a greasy meat.  That is not tasty at all.  One way to avoid that is to make sure that the duck's skin has "drains" in it.  I used a paring knife and poked all over the skin, through the skin but not the meat (muscle) underneath, to allow the fat to drain as the birds cooked.

I rinsed the birds with cool water after I removed the giblets and neck from the cavity.  I only used a bit of salt on and in the birds.  The fat and smoke will provide enough flavor.  I covered the wings and legs with foil to prevent them from cooking too fast and burning (I removed the foil during the last hour).  I did not tie up the birds at all.  I wanted the smokey, hot air to circulate all around the birds.  


I arranged my offset smoker as you can see above.  On the left is the firebox.  I have a pile of charcoal ready to light.  To the right of that is my water pan.  I make sure to keep the air humid (not wet) by keeping this full of water.   Under the cooking grate in the smoke box I placed a drip pan to collect the fat from the cooking birds.  I'll discuss what I did with the fat in a later post.

I used a mix of hickory and mesquite wood blocks and chips - that was all I had access to where I live.  Hickory is a medium strength wood - flavor speaking.  We can use it with beef and pork in moderation, lightly with chicken, and it is probably too strong for lighter fish.  Mesquite is a stronger wood for flavor.  It can easily overpower smoked meats, so we use it with caution depending on the natural flavors of the meat we are smoking.  Duck and other waterfowl, as well as most game meats, are much more strongly flavored, so they can handle a bit more mesquite.  I thought a mix of about 60/40 hickory/mesquite would be a good ratio.

In general, I add wood every 15-30 minutes for the first few hours, then I only add additional charcoal to keep the temperature at a steady place.  


Temperatures are the most important thing to monitor when smoking/BBQ-ing.  There are a number of temperatures which I keep track.  First is the smoke box temperature.  I try to smoke/BBQ fatty meats at about 225 F (107 C).  This is the ideal temp to slowly melt the fat and connective tissues and create a juicy meat.  Lean meats like turkey can be smoked/BBQ'd at a bit higher temperature... 325 F (162C).  For duck, I tried to keep the cooking temp between 250-275 F (121-135 C).  It is fattier than turkey, but it doesn't have nearly the connective tissue as a brisket would have.  I monitor this temperature with a screw-on probe thermometer I drilled through the door of the smoke box.

The next temperature I monitor is the meat temperature.  I use a probe thermometer with a heat resistant cord connected to a battery operated digital display as you can see in the photo above.  My goal for duck is 160 F (71 C) in the deep breast.  Once the temp raises to this goal, it will continue cooking for a bit with an ultimate goal of 165 F (74 C).  I like this model.  On the lower line of the digital display, you can see the current probe temp on the left and the goal (alarm) temp on the right.

In reality, I don't completely trust this temperature probe.  I think the heat will conduct down the probe and give a falsely elevated reading.  When I get close to the goal temp, I will then use an instant read probe thermometer and check the meat in several places.  This gives me an idea of how much longer to BBQ the meat.  I will move one piece of meat to the cool end of the smoke box (farthest from the firebox) if it is at a higher temp than the other pieces.  In the case of the ducks, I spun them around since one end was cooking faster than the other.


Here is the end product.  A crispy skin.  Juicy but not greasy meat.  Good smoke flavor, but not overpowering.  It took about 4 hours... I think.  I wasn't really keeping track of the time.  Our guest for the duck dinner, Joan (also a bit of a food snob... in a good way!) is a duck lover.  She orders duck whenever she gets a chance.  She said that this was the best duck she has ever tasted.  High praise!  

There is a mix of art and science to smoking meat the right way.  Practice will make perfect.  Get to know your smoker, and you will be making great food!  Have fun!


Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Turn Air Into Water: The Airdrop Irrigation System

Edward Linacre and his Airdrop Irrigation System

The 2011 James Dyson Award went to Edward Linacre for his Airdrop Irrigation System.  This simple, but brilliant, design actually pulls water from air through condensation.  "Yeah, so what?" you say, "Every time I walk outside in the morning, there is condensation (dew) on the ground."

Well, Edward Linacre can do it in a desert.  And he can produce enough to irrigate plants.

Amazing!

While still in the beginning stages and not available for purchase... yet, this is an idea and a project to watch closely.  Very closely.

Here are a couple of interviews with Edward Linacre:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2011/nov/20/edward-linacre-airdrop-bright-idea
http://www.cnet.com.au/turning-air-into-water-australias-james-dyson-award-winner-339325792.htm


Here are a couple of short video interviews:

Edward Linacre explains his motivation for developing the Airdrop Irrigation System.

Interview with Edward Linacre explaining how the Airdrop Irrigation System works.


How does the Airdrop Irrigation System work?


Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Book Review: The Small-Scale Poultry Flock

 

This is hands-down the best book on raising chickens (and other poultry) that I have read... and I have read a lot.  For a long time, I have been trying to establish systems of raising chickens on permaculture principles - all theoretical of course, since I have yet had the chance to raise my own chickens, but I hope to remedy this within a year.

As is typically the case, whenever I come up with a brilliant concept, I end up finding a person who has not only come up with the brilliant concept, but has been doing if for years, and they have perfected it.  This is what Harvey Ussery has done.  He has once again reinforced my thoughts that I am on the right track with "all this permaculture stuff" (as everyone always tells me).  But he has also saved me a whole lot of time; I don't have to reinvent the wheel.

While not using the word "permaculture" very much, this book is all about modeling the natural biological systems of chickens to produce healthy eggs and meat in a stress-free environment.  Using the principles outlined in this book, we can almost eliminate all harmful chemicals, unnatural activities, and poor health from our home poultry flock.  These principles can and have been expanded to large, commercial-sized flocks as well.

I cannot recommend this book enough.  If you plan on having chickens or waterfowl at your home, homestead, or farm, then I feel that this book is a must have.

For an even stronger endorsement, Joel Salatin wrote the foreword!

From the publisher:

The most comprehensive guide to date on raising all-natural poultry for the small-scale farmer, homesteader, and professional grower. The Small-Scale Poultry Flock offers a practical and integrative model for working with chickens and other domestic fowl, based entirely on natural systems.


Readers will find information on growing (and sourcing) feed on a small scale, brooding (and breeding) at home, and using poultry as insect and weed managers in the garden and orchard. Ussery's model presents an entirely sustainable system that can be adapted and utilized in a variety of scales, and will prove invaluable for beginner homesteaders, growers looking to incorporate poultry into their farm, or poultry farmers seeking to close their loop. Ussery offers extensive information on:

  • The definition of an integrated poultry flock (imitation of natural systems, integrating patterns, and closing the circle)
  • Everything you need to know about your basic chicken (including distinctive points about anatomy and behavior that are critical to management)
  • Extended information on poultry health and holistic health care, with a focus on prevention
  • Planning your flock (flock size, choosing breeds, fowl useful for egg vs. meat production, sourcing stock)
  • How to breed and brood the flock (including breeding for genetic conservation), including the most complete guide to working with broody hens available anywhere
  • Making and mixing your own feed (with tips on equipment, storage, basic ingredients, technique, grinding and mixing)
  • Providing more of the flock's feed from sources grown or self-foraged on the homestead or farm, including production of live protein feeds using earthworms and soldier grubs
  • Using poultry to increase soil fertility, control crop damaging insects, and to make compost-including systems for pasturing and for tillage of cover crops and weeds
  • Recipes for great egg and poultry dishes (including Ussery's famous chicken stock!)
  • And one of the best step-by-step poultry butchering guides available, complete with extensive illustrative photos.

No other book on raising poultry takes an entirely whole-systems approach, or discusses producing homegrown feed and breeding in such detail. This is a truly invaluable guide that will lead farmers and homesteaders into a new world of self-reliance and enjoyment.


Here are some great interviews with the author, Harvey Ussery.

Harvey Ussery on Integrated Systems

Harvey Ussery on Natural Feeds

Harvey Ussery on Nests


Monday, December 5, 2011

Permaculture Plants: Mulberry

Red Mulberry (Morus rubra)
Great photo from Missouri Permaculture 
Note how the "red" mulberry fruit really turns dark purple when ripe.

Common Name: Mulberry (Black, Red, and White)
Scientific Name: Morus species (M. nigra, M. rubra, M. alba)
Family: Moraceae
Black Mulberry (Morus nigra)
The "typical" Black Mulberry fruit will mature from green to whitish-pink to red to deep purple-black.

White Mulberry (Morus alba)
This is actually a variety of the White Mulberry tree - The Russian Mulberry (M. alba var tatarica)

Description:
Mulberry Trees are large trees that produce fruit that resemble a blackberry, but the fruit doesn't taste much like a blackberry.  There are about 15 Morus species and many more hybrids, but the three most common species (the Black, Red, and White) have ripe fruits that typically develop the color of their name... the Black Mulberry has dark purple, almost back fruit; the Red Mulberry has reddish fruit that will ripen to deep purple; the White Mulberry has green, unripe fruit that will turn white when ripe.  However, there are varieties of all these trees that have a range of fruit colors.  It is said that the Black Mulberry has the best flavor, and the White has the worst (or least best) flavor.  I would have to agree.  Black Mulberry fruit is delicious, especially the improved cultivars.  They are sweet and tart and taste like... well, mulberries.  I was not a fan of the White Mulberry fruit that grew in my backyard when I lived in Kentucky.  It was quite bland, and that is the reputation that it typically holds by most eaters.  Most White Mulberries are used for the leaves, to feed silkworms, and it is not really raised for its fruit.

The Mulberry Tree in Autumn, c. 1889 - Vincent Van Gogh

History:
Black Mulberry Trees (M. Nigra) are native to southwest Asia.  It has been cultivated for thousands of years in that area.  Red Mulberry Trees (M. rubra) are native to eastern North America and was used quite a bit by the native population.  White Mulberry Trees (M. alba) is native to northern China and has been cultivated for thousands of years to feed silkworms.  Many varieties and hybrids have been developed for improved flavor, increased production, and higher yields of fruit.

Trivia:
The Tale of Pyramus and Thisbe (as told by wikipedia):
In the Ovidian version, Pyramus and Thisbe is the story of two lovers in the city of Babylon who occupy connected houses/walls, forbidden by their parents to be wed, because of their parents' rivalry. Through a crack in one of the walls, they whisper their love for each other. They arrange to meet near at Ninus' tomb under a white mulberry tree and state their feelings for each other. Thisbe arrives first, but upon seeing a lioness with a mouth bloody from a recent kill, she flees, leaving behind her veil. The lioness drinks from a nearby fountain, then by chance mutilates the veil Thisbe had left behind. When Pyramus arrives, he is horrified at the sight of Thisbe's veil, assuming that a fierce beast had killed her. Pyramus kills himself, falling on his sword in proper Roman fashion, and in turn splashing blood on the white mulberry leaves. Pyramus' blood stains the white mulberry fruits, turning them dark. Thisbe returns, eager to tell Pyramus what had happened to her, but she finds Pyramus' dead body under the shade of the mulberry tree. Thisbe, after a brief period of mourning, stabs herself with the same sword. In the end, the gods listen to Thisbe's lament, and forever change the colour of the mulberry fruits into the stained colour to honour the forbidden love. (according to Roman mythology, this is how the red mulberry tree was created)

A plate of mulberries - fruit can range from about 1 inch (2.5 cm) to over 3 inches (8 cm) long

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Fresh eating (fruit)
  • Leaves - cooked (used like grape leaves to wrap foods, can be used like cooked greens, just discard the water in which you cook the leaves)
  • Baked goods (pies, tarts)
  • Dried
  • Murrey (a fruit puree eaten as a pudding or cooked with meat)
  • Jams, Preserves
  • Ice Creams
  • Wine, Cordials
  • Teas

Secondary Uses:
  • Food for wildlife, especially birds.
  • Food for domestic poultry.
  • Can be coppiced for fuel (wood), food (leaves), or crafts (twigs); 1-4 year cycle is typical
  • Windbreak (only the Russian Mulberry, M. alba var tatarica)
  • Food source for the cultivation of silkworms
  • Traditional medicinal uses - reported that mulberry root may help tapeworm, and a lot of fruit or the inner bark of the tree can both be used as a laxative (this information has not been verified)

Yield: 5-25 lbs per tree
Harvesting: August-September.  Pick as the fruits ripen - they will not all ripen at the same time.  Sheets can be laid down and the tree given a good shake.  The ripe fruits will drop easily.

Storage: Fresh fruit only keeps for a few days.  The fruits can be dried.  The fruits also freeze well.

Male and Female Mulberry Flowers
Male flower stalks (long and thin) and female flower stalks (short and round) will often form on the same tree - making it self-fertile.  However, cross-pollination from another mulberry will typically provide greater yields.

Mulberry leaves have a lot of variability - even in the same tree.

Young Red Mulberry tree bark

Older Red Mulberry tree bark

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9
AHS Heat Zone: 9-4
Chill Requirement: 300-500 hours/units depending on the species and variety

Plant Type: Medium Trees
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree
Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available.

Pollination: 
Many are Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile, but most will produce greater yields if allowed to cross pollinate

Flowering: Late Spring (will not be effected by frost)

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 5-15 years (can be as little as 2 years for some varieties, but will need a few more years to get to maximum production)
Years of Useful Life: M. rubra (less than 75 years), M. alba (150 years), M. nigra (300+ years!)

Mulberry Tree in autumn

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 30-60 feet (9-18 meters) tall and wide
Roots: taproot or heart-shaped root pattern (a number of main roots all spreading out and down)
Growth Rate: Fast

Illustration of Red Mulberry - Charles Sprague Sargent

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%)
Moisture: Medium, however some species/varieties can handle drier soils
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0); M. rubra can handle more alkaline soils (to 8.5)

Special Considerations for Growing: 
Branches can be brittle, so some protection may be needed from the wind.  M. alba tolerates juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives).  Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.

Propagation:
Can root from softwood cuttings taken in the summer. Seeds need at 13-16 weeks stratification for germination

Maintenance:
Young trees are susceptible to slugs and snails.  Once established, very little maintenance is needed.  If pruning, do so in early summer.  Trim away dead branches for aesthetic reasons or prune branches to minimize branch overcrowding.  Few pests.

Concerns:
  • Fruits can be messy - avoid planting trees near driveways and sidewalks/walkways
  • Can spread easily by seed - usually by birds
  • Some people are allergic to the pollen - seasonal allergies
  • Some people are sensitive to the milky sap - contact dermatitis
  • Poisonous – In some species, the unripe fruit and leaves can cause stomach upset at best and hallucinations at worst
Stuffed Mulberry Leaves - here's a recipe! (click on the link below)

Black and White Mulberry Ricotta Tart - here's a recipe! (click on the link below)

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Salad Greens

Some fresh salad clippings from my garden.

I love being able to go to my back porch and snip some greens for a salad.  This quick post is just an encouragement to go grow something.  One of the easiest things to do is to grow salad greens.  Just get a few flower pots or window boxes, fill them up with good potting soil and compost, and plant a mix of salad greens.  You can either buy a premixed packet of seeds or build your own.  Keep them well watered.  Before you know it, you'll have to snip out some of the tender leaves just so the other plants have room to grow.

I have about 8-10 different varieties of greens growing in two window boxes and two flower pots (seven of them are shown in the photo above).  At this time of year in my climate, in just this little space, I grow enough for a small side salad for me and my wife every night, one main salad for me every other day, or a main salad for both of us about once a week (maybe twice).  The variety of colors and textures is great.  The flavor is so much better than store bought.  I don't have to worry about what chemicals were sprayed on my food, because I grew it (... no chemicals by the way!).  And I get the satisfaction of producing my own food... even just this little bit.

So, what are you waiting for?  Get out and grow some food!



Monday, November 28, 2011

Recipe: Apple Butter


So, what to do with left over apple pulp and skins from our Hard Cider Homebrew session on the Thanksgiving weekend?

Throw it away?   That seemed like a big waste.
Turn it into compost?  Well, it has to age for about 2 years due to the high acidity - it will kill plants.
Use it to kill plants?  Not a bad idea if I had a fence line I wanted to keep weed free... but no fence lines for me right now.

How about making some apple butter?  Perfect!

Apple butter is not really butter (from milk), but it is a creamy, concentrated apple sauce with spices.  It is delicious on a piece of warm toast or on a hot biscuit.  It was a common sweet treat, side dish, ingredient in baked goods, or condiment in the Colonial United States.  I can see why.  I have only met one person (eh-hmm, Veronica), who does not like apple butter.  However, everyone else usually goes back for seconds and thirds when a jar is opened.

We ended up with a bunch of pulp after juicing close to 200 lbs of fruit.  Well over half of it was from uncored apples, so it had bit of stem and seed in it.  However, thanks to Jake's forethought, we cored a decent amount of apples and quince and saved that pulp for making apple butter.

Here is the basic recipe for apple butter:

Ingredients:
  • 4 parts fruit (this can be cored apples, skins, or pulp)
  • 1 part sugar (this can be brown sugar, white table sugar, or honey)
  • Spices to taste (common spices are cinnamon and cloves)

 The heated apple mixture (left)
Pureeing the mixture (center)
The pureed apple mixture (right)


Method:
  • Heat the fruit, sugar, and spices over low medium heat until tender - keep stirring to avoid scorching (you can see this being done in the photo at the top of this post)
  • You may need to add some water to help with consistency
  • Transfer to a blender or food processor or food mill and puree it until smooth (like apple sauce)
  • Put back on the heat and simmer until reduced and darkened - it should be thick and almost creamy... buttery!

The spices I used in this recipe
(cloves, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, and black pepper)

Notes:
  • Many spices can be used.  I used cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, and black pepper.  Yeah, black pepper.  If used in small amounts in sweet dishes like apple butter and apple-quince pie is basically a natural flavor enhancer.
  • This is a very easy recipe to make, it just takes some time and attention.  
  • A crock pot works great for cooking the pureed fruit.  I put mine in over night on low and then simmered it down on the stove for a few hours more the next morning.

The finished apple butter... dark, glossy, and creamy!  Delicious!