Heritage Breeds: Dominique Chickens

The Dominique was the first U.S. breed of chicken.

http://www.othalaacres.com/images/P7040451.JPG

The Dominique chicken is primarily an egg laying breed, but many keep it as a dual-purpose (egg and meat) bird. This is a breed I am strongly considering adding to my land. As you read about this chicken, I wouldn't be surprised if you will, too.

Conservation Status: In Watch Status by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy.  "Watch" status means that there are less than 5,000 breeding birds in the U.S.  For a full description of Heritage and Heirloom Foods, check out this post.

Description: Laying Breed Chicken or Dual-Purpose Chicken
Class*: American
Origin: United States
APA**: 1874

Size: Medium
Cock 7 lbs (3.2 kg)
Hen 5 lbs (2.25 kg)

The Dominique's "rose" comb is small enough to minimize risk of frostbite.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/94/Dominique_Chicken.jpg

Comb (the fleshy thing on top of the chicken's head): Small to medium rose comb - bright red
Wattles (the fleshy thing hanging from the chicken's chin): Small to medium wattles - bright red
Earlobes (the fleshy thing just below and behind the chicken's eyes): Medium-sized, oblong - bright red

Beak: Yellow
Eyes: Deep red
Shanks: Yellow
Toes: Yellow

The black and white barred feather pattern, also known as "hawk coloring".

http://www.dirtroadheaven.com/drhimages/09-november/chickenfeathers11.jpg

Feathers: Barred black and white (really they are dark gray over off-white)
Eggs: Small-Medium. Brown eggs. 230-275 eggs per year.

The Dominique was once the country's primary backyard chicken.

http://www.durhamtownship.com/blog-archives/pix/December1106.jpg

History
It is the first truly American breed of chicken, although the exact origin is unknown. Likely it was primarily European stock that formed the original breeding stock, and over time there was likely some Asian breeds mixed in as well. The Dominique was the primary barnyard chicken in the U.S. for about a century (1830-1930's), until it was replaced by the Barred Plymouth Rock breed. By the 1950's, it was thought that they Dominique was extinct; however, there were a few breeders out there who kept the breed alive. A full scale restoration took place in the 1970's with only four flocks, and today the breed is in a much safer position.

The name, Dominique, may have come from the French colony Saint-Domingue (a.k.a. Hati) which was a likely source for some of the original breeding stock.

The Dominique's mild manner is just one of its great attributes.

http://fairhillsfarm.com/farmgirls/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/July-2009-123.jpg

Attributes/Permaculture Planning

• Very hardy birds
• Range well
• Tolerates confinement (but I don't recommend that for any animal!)
• Great forager
• Good egg producer
• Broody tendency (means that the hen will want to hatch the eggs she lays - this is a great attribute when we are trying to improve our stock in a breeding program... who wants a mother that abandons her eggs?)
• Good mothers
• Barred feather pattern provides protection from arial predators - camouflage!
• Feathers used to be highly prized for stuffing pillows and mattresses
• Young birds feather out and mature early - can produce eggs as early as six months
• Hens are calm and friendly
• Cocks can be aggressive - known to kill snakes, mink, even small cats... good protectors!

For more information on Dominique Chickens, check out the Dominique Club of America.

A Dominique cock.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5c/DominiqueCockZeus.JPG

*Note: While there are a number of breeds that have a Bantam (miniature) version in existence, I choose not to discuss them on this site. Most Bantam breeds are show-only birds, and would not be ideal birds for a homestead... and I am not interested in "pets" that take up resources instead of providing for me and my family. There is a lot of very good and helpful information on other sites if you are interested in Bantam breeds.


**APA = American Poultry Association. Founded in 1873, it is the oldest poultry organization in North America.

Basics of Lactic Acid Fermentation

Sauerkraut is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to lactic acid fermented foods.

http://samabelle.pbworks.com/f/sauerkraut.jpg

What is Lactic Acid Fermentation, and why would we want to know anything about it?

Here's a scientific definition:
Lactic Acid Fermentation is a biological process by which sugars such as glucose, fructose, and sucrose are converted into cellular energy, and the metabolic byproduct Lactate is formed.

So, that's a bit of a mouthful, and not very useful for the non-scientists among us.

How about this definition:
Lactic Acid Fermentation is a process used to store foods (mostly vegetables) long term without using heat, cold, or preservatives, yet retains the nutritional value and original freshness of the food.

Okay, that is better. 

Pickles made the original way... far superior in flavor in my opinion.

http://tipnut.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/crock2.jpg

So what are Lactic Acid Fermented Foods?
Ever had Sauerkraut? Kimchi? Old-fashioned Pickles? Olives? Yogurt? Sourdough bread?
These are all examples of common foods produced through Lactic Acid Fermentation.

How about Magou? Kefir? Laban Zeer? Nham? Balao Balao? Gundruk? Sinki?
Yeah, I've never tried these foods either, but I hope to one day.

Here is a traditional Nepalese meal made with Grundruk... lactic acid fermented leafy greens.

http://www.restaurantsnepal.com/images/Gundruk.jpg

Why should we care about Lactic Acid Fermentation?  I have a few reasons:

1. It is relatively easy. Seriously. Fresh, clean vegetables. Salt. Maybe some water. And a little time.
2. It is pretty cheap. All you needs are the fresh foods and maybe a little salt and/or water. Food prices are rapidly increasing (see my article on the Rising Cost of Food), and the more food we can grow AND preserve will be money saved.
3. It preserves our food. When we have a bumper crop of vegetables from the garden, here is just another way to extend the shelf-life of that food. Much better than letting it go bad and (hopefully) just ending up in the compost pile.
4. It tastes good! This is a big priority to me. I'm not going to waste my time on something that doesn't taste good. I've only had a few foods that were make with traditional lactic acid fermentation. Most "modern day" foods that were once preserved through lactic acid fermentation are now made other ways (like vinegar preservation) or are killed by heating before storing (hot water canning). But the flavor of fresh yogurt, real sauerkraut, real pickles!  It is worth it, trust me.
5. It is healthy. More and more research is showing that these fermented foods may, in some cases, be healthier than the fresh food. Mineral content stays the same, but some vitamins increase. The bioavailability of the nutrients in the fermented foods can also increase... meaning, the nutrients found in these foods are more readily absorbed by our bodies after fermentation. Not to mention that the bacteria that ferment these foods end up in our gastrointestinal tract and improve our digestive processes, which also leads to improved absorption of foods, which leads to better health. Now to be fair, these foods may be fairly salty. Lactic Acid Fermented foods should be a part of a well-rounded diet, not the primary component.
6. It uses very little energy and resources. No heat from stoves. No electricity for refrigerators or freezers. Minimal water. Just the vegetables we grow and maybe some salt. That's it.
7. It provides yet another way for us to be a bit more self-sufficient. Even if food security is not on your radar, as it is mine, having the freedom of just a little more self-reliance is powerfully reassuring.

So, there you have it. That was my quick definition of Lactic Acid Fermentation and my reasons why I am a big fan of learning more about it.  I plan on posting some articles on my adventures making these foods in the near future.  Stay tuned.

Deforestation in the U.S.

Loss of Primary or "Old Growth" Forests in the U.S.

http://www.globalchange.umich.edu/globalchange2/current/lectures/deforest/deforest.html

Primary Forests, sometimes called Old Growth Forests, are simply areas of forest that have never been logged. The map above is a sad statement on our management of these forests. I am not against logging. I am not against using the natural resources of the Earth; however, we must do so wisely. The Primary Forests are full of species of plant and animal that, if lost, will never exist again. But that is only part of what we have lost and stand to lose through deforestation.

Permaculture teaches about the use of Zones (you can read more about that in this article).  Zone 5 is a permanently "wild" area. It is vital to have these areas so that we can observe how nature functions without our interference. It is the model for the systems we are trying to emulate. If we lose this, we lose our teacher... not in some esoteric way, but in a very real, tangible way. We need to make sure we protect these areas, so we can observe the systems of nature. These forests are the prime example of a functioning sustainable ecosystem, and without them we lose thousands of years of information to guide us in creation of our own sustainable systems.

Finally, we need these places to experience God's creation untarnished by man. That alone should be enough reason.

With all that said, take a look at this map:

http://thewatchers.adorraeli.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/hotspotdeforestationmap.jpg

This map does give me hope. I have not been able to find a date for this map or any information on the creation of it, but it is quite interesting. While there are places in the world that are really doing poorly, there are others (especially in the U.S.) that have allowed new forests to develop.

I get rather tired of politicians, celebrities, and even some scientists, who get all worked up about some small aspect of environmentalism and forget about the very large, tangible ways to protect the environment... they are worried about a speck of dust right next to the elephant in the room, so to speak.

If you truly care about the environment, please put your energy into something that has a tangible result.

Permaculture Plants: Skirret

Skirret is a great tasting root crop with many useful attributes.

http://blog.metmuseum.org/cloistersgardens/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/skirret_roots_500.jpg

Common Name: Skirret
Other Names: Suikerwortel (Netherlands), Crummock (Scotland), Zuckewurzel (Germany)
Scientific Name: Sium sisarum
Family: Apiaceae/Umbelliferae (Carrot Family)

Above ground, Skirret is a small to medium-sized herbaceous plant.

http://luirig.altervista.org/cpm/albums/bot-units35/sium-sisarum12913.jpg

Description:
Skirret was once a very well known small to medium-sized perennial root crop. Its bright white, pencil-thin roots are sweet and said to have a flavor somewhere between potato and parsnip. Unfortunately, this is one plant I have yet to taste. I keep my eyes open in my travels through the U.S., Europe, and the Middle East in hopes of finding some to sample one day.

Botanical illustration of Sium sisarum.

Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thomé Flora von Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz 1885

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Illustration_Sium_sisarum0.jpg

History:
Likely originating in China, Skirret made its way to Europe early in the Middle Ages where it was a primary root crop. Unfortunately, Skirret was rather quickly replaced by the potato (from South America) given that potatoes are a larger, more easily cleaned crop. However, skirret is still used widely through northeastern Asia.

Trivia:

• The name “Skirret” comes from the Dutch “Suikerwortel” meaning “sugar root”.
• The wild ancestor of Skirret grows on the banks of waterways. This shows how tolerant skirret is of moist soils.
• Pliny the Elder stated that Skirret was a favorite vegetable of the Emperor Tiberius.

Skirret flowers are attractors of beneficial insects.

http://luirig.altervista.org/cpm/albums/bot-units14/sium-sisarum13062.jpg

http://flora.nhm-wien.ac.at/Bilder-P-Z/Sium-sisarum-1.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Cooked (primarily): boiled, roasted, baked, braised, stewed, creamed, mashed, batter-fried
• Used interchangeably or with carrots, parsnips, potatoes, or salsify in most recipes
• Raw: peeled, sliced, chopped, or grated

Secondary Uses:

• General insect nectar plant
• Specialist insect nectar plant… lacewings prefer Skirret plants
• Refuge plant for parasitoid wasps… they like to hide in Skirret foliage
• Historically was used as a flavoring in beers, wines, and liquors

Yield: Varies widely depending on plant, soil, climate, and growing conditions in general
Harvesting: Autumn – Winter (October – March) after the foliage is killed by the frost. Skirret becomes sweeter with frosts like carrots and parsnips. Break the individual roots free and scrub the dirt off with a brush under running water. If you have a plant with a woody core, then the sweeter, softer root surrounding the core needs to be cut to scraped away first – try using a vegetable peeler. This emphasizes the importance of choosing higher-quality, woody-core-free cultivars.
Storage: Store like carrots... unwashed/uncleaned and wrapped in plastic and stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator, or unwashed and stored in straw or barely moist sand in a cool, high-humidity location like a root cellar. Keep the roots whole - if the root is damaged or broken, use them fresh instead of stored. Can be stored with other root vegetables like potatoes. Should not be stored near/with fruit (like apples), since they give off ethylene gas that can cause spoilage or off flavors.

Skirret roots can have a variety of forms depending on the soil conditions.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yfpPyRnx3Dk/S_bdSz_iLZI/AAAAAAAAACY/XqQyF76r-n0/s1600/DSC02488.JPG

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-9 (Zone 4 at a minimum, maybe even colder)
AHS Heat Zone: None described
Chill Requirement: Since this is a root crop, a chill requirement is rather irrelevant; however, this plant does appear to produce better in areas that are a bit colder. Also, flavor seems to get better with below freezing temperatures.

Plant Type: Small to Medium-sized Herbaceous Perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Underground layer; Small to Medium-sized Herbaceous Perennial
Cultivars/Varieties: There are a number of unnamed varieties available. Be sure to find one that is free of a woody core in the roots. It may take some time and a few sources to find a good, high quality parent plant that we can propagate on our land.

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile
Flowering: August - September

Life Span: No good data as this plant is harvested and split well before its lifespan reaches its end.

Skirret can tolerate shade and wet soils... a great plant for those "tough" locations.

http://www.gradinata.bg/_images/i007000.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 4 feet (1 meter) tall and 1-2 foot (0.3-0.6 meters) wide
Roots: Tuberous
Growth Rate: Medium

Skirret is a classic "plant/replant perennial" 

(see Propagation below).

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XujRb3YOlws/TtujSnu69JI/AAAAAAAAAJg/qm2pT3Wbtx4/s1600/Skirret+offsets.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Easily tolerates light shade (about 50%)
Moisture: Can tolerate high moisture levels, but does not require them.
pH: Can handle slightly acidic to alkaline soils

Special Considerations for Growing:
Skirret can tolerate rather wet and/or maritime soils.
It appears to grow the best tasting and least fibrous roots in rich, moist soils.

Propagation: Very easy to divide from the root. It is a classic “plant/replant perennial” plant… i.e. we can harvest a plant, take some of the roots for harvest and replant some of the remainder in the original hole and the rest in new locations where it will grow into a new plant.
Skirret can be grown from seed; however, the new plant is typically inferior to the parent plant.

Maintenance:
Minimal once established.

Concerns:
None reported.

The BioLite Stove... Electrical Energy from Wood Burning

www.BioLite.com

Thanks to my friend Shane for the tip on this product.  BioLite has a new product that uses twigs or other small flammable material to create heat for cooking and electrical energy for charging USB-adaptor-charged devices... like phones, GPS, Kindle, Ipods, etc.

I love to apply Permaculture concepts to anything that I can, and this is no different. Permaculture Principle Six states "Produce No Waste". Outdoor stoves are notorious for "wasting" a lot of energy by releasing heat into the environment. The BioLite stove captures some of that heat and converts it into a usable form of energy.

I don't know if I will be purchasing this specific product, but it is making my mind race with ideas... Can we adapt this technology to home use wood stoves or even fireplaces? Can we attach sort of trickle charger that will charge larger capacity batteries?

I love the idea behind this product. I will be watching this technology closely and will post if any new developments arise.

The BioLite stove is no larger than a Nalgene water bottle.

Permaculture Plants: Groundcover Raspberry

Groundcover Raspberries (like this Rubus pentalobus) are great additions to any garden.

http://wilsonbrosonline.com/images/plants/source/Creeping-Raspberry-Rubus.jpg

Common Name: Groundcover Raspberries
Scientific Name: 

• Rubus nepalensis (Nepalese Raspberries)
• Rubus pentalobus/rolfei/calycinoides (Creeping Bramble)
• Rubus tricolor (Chinese Bramble/Groundcover Raspberry)

Family: Rosaceae (Rose Family)

Groundcover Raspberries are not as large, but just as flavorful, as their full-sized relatives.

http://www.southlancsflora.co.uk/Brambles%20Pics/T/Rubus-tricolor-1.jpg

Groundcover Raspberries are low-growing and evergreen. 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5a/Rubus_nepalensis_-_Berlin_Botanical_Garden_-_IMG_8740.JPG

Description:
I consider any of the low-growing, shade tolerant Rubus species to be Groundcover Raspberries. They come from around the world, and they all produce raspberry-like fruit. They tolerate light to medium foot traffic well. They are great nectar plants for beneficial insects, especially honeybees. These plants are growing quickly in popularity as more and more people hear about them, and they will be a major groundcover species in my Forest Garden.

There are a variety of fruit colors with Groundcover Raspberries, Rubus pentalobus are orange.

http://anthrome.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/img_7652.jpg

There are a variety of flower designs depending on the species.

http://www.alpiner.se/images/Rubus%20nepalensis%20060608%20hs.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Fresh eating – just like small raspberries
• Preserves (jams, jellies)

Secondary Uses:

• Groundcover
• General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
• Wildlife food, especially birds, in Summer
• Leaves make a mild tea
• Frozen fresh
• Dehydrated

Yields are not high, but any food production from a ground cover plant is great!

http://www.aphotoflora.com/images/rosaceae/rubus_tricolor_chinese_bramble_fruit_fruiting_31-07-10_1.jpg

Yield: This is a ground cover plant which means that many individual plants are used in a single planting area, and as such there are no good yield numbers recorded; however, yields are not very high.
Harvesting: Summer (July-September)
Storage: Use fresh. Can be frozen (individually on a cookie sheet is best, then stored in a freeze bag). Can be dehydrated. Use within a few days at most.

Great use of Rubus pentalobus around structures in a garden.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5fa3p_duOao/RogU667BOgI/AAAAAAAAIB0/se9Z8tXoCu4/IMG_2448.JPG

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 6-7
AHS Heat Zone: None recorded
Chill Requirement: None recorded, but likely produces better with some chilling.

Plant Type: Small Perennial Shrub
Leaf Type: Evergreen
Forest Garden Use: Groundcover
Cultivars/Varieties: A number of species and varieties available

Pollination: Some are Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile but most will only produce with cross-pollination from another or similar plans
Flowering: June-August depending on the species and latitude

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 1-2 years
Years to Maximum Bearing: 2-3 years
Years of Useful Life: 6-10 years

There are many closely related Groundcover Raspberry species that can only be found locally.

This is Rubus lasiococcus native to the Pacific Northwest.

http://www.portlandnursery.com/plants/images/rubus/rubus_lasiococcus500.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 

• Rubus nepalensis (Nepalese Raspberries) – 1 foot (0.3 meter) high and widely spreading
• Rubus pentalobus/rolfei/calycinoides (Creeping Bramble) – 4 inches (0.1 meter) high and widely spreading
• Rubus tricolor (Chinese Bramble/Groundcover Raspberry) – 2 feet (0.6 meter) tall and widely spreading

Roots: Shallow and flat, suckering roots – widely spreading
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast

Stems can root which makes propagation rather easy.

http://www.kevockgarden.co.uk/plantlist/media/rubus_tricolor2.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun to light shade
Shade: Tolerates light to full shade
Moisture: Medium (Rubus tricolor Chinese Bramble, is quite drought tolerant, but it yields less)
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0), but can handle a wide variety

Special Considerations for Growing: 
These are rather vigorous plants. They tolerate light to medium foot traffic. Some areas can become weedy, so it makes sense to grow other goundcover plants with groundcover raspberries (Mint is a great choice).
Rubus pentalobus/rolfei/calycinoides (Creeping Bramble) – space plantings 1-3 feet apart
Rubus tricolor (Chinese Bramble/Groundcover Raspberry) – space plantings 3-5 feet apart

Propagation:  
Usually by detaching rooting stems… meaning that as taller stems grow up tall, they will eventually bend over and touch the ground. When this happens, these stems will take root. The bent over stem can be cut when roots have formed, and another individual plant is ready to replant to another location. These plants can be easily layered into pots by pinning taller stems into a small pot of soil.
Plants can propagate through seeds, but need some cold stratification.

Maintenance:
Minimal.  Occasional weeding may be necessary. May need to cut back, or mow back, when it grows into areas that we don’t want it to grow… this is not a matter of if, but when.

Concerns:
May be slowly and locally invasive if not kept in check… regular mowing on paths works quite well.

Organic Fertilizers: Sawdust

Sawdust can often be easily found.

http://www.glosco-wood.com/MyImages/sawdust%201.jpg

What is it?
Sawdust is the powdery by-product of cutting wood with a saw. Pretty simple really.

What is the primary benefit?
Sawdust is a great source of organic matter for our fertilizer and our soil.  Depending on where we live, we may have access to large amounts of sawdust. Where I am right now in Turkey, there are a number of lumber mills near me. Each year I am frustrated by the site of men pouring gasoline on huge piles of sawdust and just burning it off. Remember, Permaculture Principle Six tells us to Produce No Waste! What a great way to repurpose this "waste" product... instead of just burning it.

Large amounts of sawdust of often burned or discarded... losing a valuable resource!

http://www.katahdingateway.com/lincoln/images/hardwood-sawdust-pile.jpg

How is it used?
The first thing to keep in mind before using sawdust, is to make sure that it is well rotted (2-4 years) before incorporating it onto our land or into our compost piles. Just leave piles of it out in the weather, and time will do all the work.

The reason it should be rotted first, is that the process of decomposition of wood binds nitrogen, and nitrogen is needed by our plants. Unless you are using sawdust in a Hugelkultur application, then let it rot first. If you apply sawdust directly to your soil, then watch for nitrogen deficiency (pale green leaves and slowed growth). Add some additional nitrogen fertilizer (Blood Meal would be a good choice) if needed.

Note - Do not use sawdust from chemically treated lumber. Just ask before you collect it!

Application:
Add rotted sawdust to your soil or compost directly.
Add fresh sawdust sparingly to established plants or mix 2-3:1 with manure or other nitrogen-rich source (2-3 parts sawdust to 1 part manure).
Add fresh sawdust to an area of land you are planning on improving in the future (2-4 years) and let it rot in place.


If your soil has adequate organic matter levels: 100 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If your soil has medium organic matter levels: 150 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If your soil has low organic matter levels: 250 lbs per 1,000 square feet


Composition:
NPK Ratio:  0.2-0.0-0.2


A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:
Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.