Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Which foods are most important to buy organic?


"I really don't want to eat food with chemicals all over (and in) them, but organic food is so expensive. Do I have to eat only organic food to be healthy?"

This is a common thought process for those of us concerned about the quality of our food. In my opinion we should do all we can to avoid any and all foods that have chemicals applied to them during any stage of a plant's lifecycle. We can get tied down with semantics on the definition of chemicals, but I am going to use the term in the common vernacular... roughly meaning manmade chemicals used to enhance growth or production or applied to kill animal or plant pests. With any definition, we have little reliable, trustworthy data on the safety of chemicals in modern agriculture, and in many cases the data we do have shows these chemicals are definitely or potentially harmful to humans.

For me, in an ideal world, all my food would be produced naturally with no chemicals whatsoever. But we live in the real world, and it is tough, and usually expesive, to eat a "chemical free" diet all the time. This leads people to feel overwhelmed and obsessed trying to find "healthy" foods. They will often severely limit the variety in their diet due to lack of "chemical free" food products and sources, or they will spend increasingly more and more money to purchase these items from many far away locations. Unfortunately, many of these people eventually give up and choose to consciously ignore these concerns, because it is just easier to live life and eat food without these worries.
But is there a middle ground?

The answer is yes! Obviously, I think AgriTrue will be a valuable tool to find producers that raise food in a way that is important to us. I hope that one day we will be able to eat totally "chemical free" in a simple, local way for a reasonable price tag. But that is not the purpose of this article.

The growing concerns about chemical pesticide exposure in our food is exactly why the Environmental Working Group (EWG) developed its annual list of "clean" and "dirty" foods. From EWG's website:

The mission of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) is to use the power of public information to protect public health and the environment. EWG is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, founded in 1993 by Ken Cook and Richard Wiles. In 2002, we founded the EWG Action Fund, a 501(c)(4) organization that advocates on Capitol Hill for health-protective and subsidy-shifting policies. EWG specializes in providing useful resources to consumers while simultaneously pushing for national policy change.

Their Shopper's Guide to Pesticide in Produce will help you determine which fruits and vegetables have the most pesticide residues and are the most important to buy organic. You can lower your pesticide intake substantially by avoiding the 12 most contaminated fruits and vegetables and eating the least contaminated produce. Here is their list:

The Dirty Dozen
  1. Apples
  2. Celery
  3. Strawberries
  4. Peaches
  5. Spinach
  6. Nectarines (imported)
  7. Grapes (imported)
  8. Sweet Bell Peppers
  9. Potatoes
  10. Blueberries (domestic)
  11. Lettuce
  12. Kale/Collard Greens

The Clean Fifteen
  1. Onions
  2. Sweet Corn
  3. Pineapples
  4. Avocado
  5. Asparagus
  6. Sweet Peas
  7. Mangoes
  8. Eggplant
  9. Cantaloupe (domestic)
  10. Kiwi
  11. Cabbage
  12. Watermelon
  13. Sweet Potatoes
  14. Grapefruit
  15. Mushrooms

Monday, March 12, 2012

Permaculture Plants: Nanking Cherry

A bush cherry that can grow in most places... perfect!

Common Name: Nanking Cherry
Other Names: Manchu Cherry, Chinese Dwarf or Bush Cherry, Downy Cherry, and many more.
Scientific Name: Prunus tomentosa
Family: Rosaceae (the Rose Family... includes all cherries, plums, peaches...)

The small, sweet cherries have soft hairs on them.

Description:
Nanking Cherry is a medium to large, multi-stemmed shrub from China that produces small, shiny, red berries with a juicy, true cherry flavor – it is a true bush cherry. It can produce in almost any growing condition, tolerates some shade, is very resistant to diseases, tolerates drought, and because it is much smaller than a full cherry tree, it is easier to protect the tasty fruit from hungry birds.

Prunus tomentosa - M. Smith, 1908 (Curtis's Botanical Magazine, vol 134)

History:
  • A native to the central hills of Asia, Nanking Cherry has been cultivated for centuries.
  • Introduced to Britain in 1870 and to the U.S. in 1892.

Trivia:
  • Nanking Cherry fruit is usually bright red, but pink and almost white fruited plants exist.
  • Nanking Cherries do not reproduce true to type… meaning that each fruit contains a seed that will grow into a shrub that resembles the parents, but may be shorter, taller, wider, thinner, and produce fruit that may taste better or worse or ripen to a different shade of pink to red.

Lee Reich (gardening author) showing how easy it is to harvest Nanking Cherries.

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Fresh eating
  • Fruit juice
  • Dried
  • Fruit Leather
  • Preserves, jams, jellies, etc.
  • Baking – pies, tarts, etc (need to be pitted first)
  • Cooking – great for making sweet/savory sauces
  • Alcohol – primary or as flavor addition to beers, wines, cordials, liquors, etc.
  • Vinegar – primary or as flavor addition
  • Pickled - unripe fruits
  • One report of flower buds being edible after cooking

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
  • Food source for wildlife (especially birds) in Summer
  • Windbreak hedgerows
  • Beautiful, fragrant flowers (pink buds and white petals) in the Spring
  • Dark grey-green dye from fruit
  • Some, but not many, medicinal uses have been reported

Yield: 12-15 lbs per bush


Harvesting: Late Summer (July-August). Fruit is about half an inch (1.2 cm) in diameter. Pick when the fruit is fully colored and juicy. Remember there is a pit (seed) in the center.


Storage: Fresh fruit does not store well and is best eaten fresh – within a day. The fruit’s stem stays on the shrub leaving a hole in the top of the fruit allowing juice to leak out… which it will readily do. Can be dried after pitting.

Beautiful, fragrant flowers that attract beneficial insects are just one great thing about this plant.

The pink blossoms turn to brilliant white as they mature.
http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1023/4723435212_80ec21c283_z.jpg


DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-7
AHS Heat Zone: 7-1 (very heat and cold tolerant)
Chill Requirement: Likely, but no reliable data can be found as to the specifics

Plant Type: Medium to Large Shrub
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Shrub Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: There used to be a large number of named varieties, but many have slowly been lost over the last 100 years. Mostly non-named seedlings and a few named varieties are available.

Pollination: Partially Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile – will produce better (more and larger fruit) when planted with other varieties of Nanking Cherries

Flowering: Spring (April-June). I’ve seen conflicting statements about Nanking Cherry’s susceptibility to late-spring frosts. Both sources are very reliable, so I can only assume that different plants exhibit different traits.

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 1-3 years
Years to Maximum Bearing: 2-4 years
Years Between Large Crops: 1-2 years
Years of Useful Life: 15 years

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 5-10 feet (1.5-3 meters) tall and wide
Roots: Fibrous tap root, medium depth, may produce suckers
Growth Rate: Medium

The summer leaves of the Nanking Cherry are rather non-descript...

...but the Spring flowers and almost black branches in Winter make this an attractive plant.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade, reports exist of Nanking Cherry still being productive in deep shade
Moisture: Medium, but can tolerate some droughts
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0)

Special Considerations for Growing: 
Does not tolerate juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut). Do not plant near Black Walnut or its relatives.

Propagation: Almost exclusively from seed. Seeds require 2-3 months cold stratification for germination. Can be propagated through cuttings. Can be propagated through layering in the Spring.

Maintenance:
Minimal. Can prune in the center for good air flow and light penetration, but it is not needed. Some plants can develop “branch dieback” which is either a fungal or bacterial infection. Some growers will cut out diseased branches, but it will rarely kill the whole plant. If the plant seems to producing less than in years previous, a severe pruning (up to cutting back to the ground) may trigger a quick and productive rejuvenation.

Concerns:
Poisonous – Leaves and seeds contain a precursor to cyanide (large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic).

Ribs with Maple Whisky and Nanking Cherry Barbecue Sauce

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Carrots!




I came across a photo of a bunch of carrots, and I was again reminded about the amazing variety of this common root crop. I was also reminded how sad it is that most people think carrots come in two forms - large and orange ("standard carrot") or small and sealed in plastic ("baby carrots"). Just take a look at the range of colors and sizes that exist... yet another reason for growing my own food.

Oh, and my "Purple Haze" carrots are just beginning to form tubers!








Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Video: There's No Tomorrow


This video takes a look at the future of energy and food production in the world. I have not seen a presentation that takes the the problems we face and explains them so well. I highly recommend taking the 33 minutes to watch this video. I fear too many will start to watch it and turn it off too quickly (and stick their heads back in the sand), because they don't like the message. I have studied the facts behind this video for a long time, and I cannot find one overt error in the information presented. All I am asking is for you to become aware of the issues, become knowledgeable on the information. This is the only way out of the crash I see coming our way. Yeah... it's a bit of a downer, but unless we actually understand the problems, we will never create a solution or an alternative.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Cauliflower Leaves are Edible!


I recently posted this photo of a head of cauliflower from my garden right before I harvested it. This  plant has continued to grow very well. It's not uncommon for the plant to push up one or a few smaller heads after the main head has been harvested, so I have let it stay in the garden. However, the other day I was out in the garden and I was amazed at how large the leaves of that cauliflower had grown.  You can see in this photo...

My cauliflower leaves are huge!

I started thinking, "What a waste of a plant to harvest just the flower buds!" Then I remembered Permaculture Principle Six: Produce No Waste. I thought the leaves will be a great addition to the compost pile... but then I wondered, "Can you eat them?"

A quick Google search later and I found out that, sure enough, cauliflower leaves are indeed edible! Apparently they can be used like any other green from the garden (collards, kale, beets, turnip, etc.). So I took one leaf... one really large leaf as you can see in the photo above... it was just over 3 feet (1 meter) long! I cut out the thick center rib and only used half for an omelet.

Ingredients: one half leaf cauliflower, one slice of bacon, 2 eggs, black pepper.

One rough chopped half cauliflower leaf sauteed with one slice bacon, rough chopped.

Two whisked eggs and black pepper added when greens were cooked through in 3-4 minutes.

The finished bacon and cauliflower leaf omelet!

So the big question... how did it taste?  Really good!  It tasted like a firmer (in a good way) cooked green like collards. Similar to kale without that faint earthy taste kale often has. I have since made a half cauliflower leaf, half brussels sprout dish that was fantastic as well... and my sometimes picky wife really enjoyed it as well. I am truly surprised that this is not a more common food... and I am thrilled that I have so much of it still left in my garden!


Monday, March 5, 2012

Permaculture Plants: Groundnut

Groundnut: this North American native has a lot going for it.

Common Name: Groundnut
Other Names: Potato Bean, Indian Potato, Hopniss
Scientific Name: Apios americana
Closely related plants: Apios fortunei (Fortune's Groundnut), Apios princesana (Prince's Groundnut)
Family: Fabaceae (Legume/Pea/Bean Family)


Great photo of Groundnut's tuber chains.


Description:
North America's most well known native root crop, although it is not very well known by most people. It is a large, vining, herbaceous plant with small to large tubers (grape to grapefruit sized) that have an earthy, nutty taste somewhat between potatoes and peanuts or roasted sweet potatoes. It is also a nitrogen fixing plant... it puts nitrogen back into the soil. It is a good attractor of beneficial insects and is a fair groundcover plant. If you have a medium to large area that this plant can spread, then strongly consider adding Groundnut to your Edible Forest Garden.

Groundnut tubers cleaned and ready to be trimmed and cooked.

History:
Groundnut is native to eastern North America, and it was an important food crop for Native Americans and European settlers. It was often transplanted by Native Americans where it often naturalized near their settlements. Recently there has been a lot of improvement work done on Groundnut by Southern Louisiana State University.

Trivia:
  • Groundnut is a starchy root crop with a high protein content - improved varieties have up to three times the protein at potatoes.
  • Groundnut (Apios americana) should not be confused with other plants sometimes called "groundnut", like the common peanut (Arachis hypogaea).
  • The scientific name Apios americana means "American Pear"

Groundnut's seedpods can be eaten like beans, but the larger pods may be a bit fibrous.

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Edible Root Crop - must be cooked. Treated like other root crops. May become dry and mealy if not cooked the right way (it can easily be cooked too much). Boiling for 10-15 minutes is all that is needed.
  • Nitrogen Fixing Plant - it puts nitrogen back into the soil to be used by other plants

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
  • Insect-shelter plant - lacewings prefer to lay eggs on Groundnuts, and parasatoid wasps are often found on Groundnuts foliage (although we are not quite sure why)
  • Chips (both American or British!)
  • Dried and ground into flour for addition to breads or as a thickening agent
  • Seeds and seedpods are edible, but not typically produced in large enough volume to be a main crop - treated like peas or beans

Harvesting: 
Tubers can be harvested at any time of year; although they are often harvested in Fall and Winter (October-March). For those of us who desire to grow these as perenials, there is a technique for harvesting the roots without destroying the whole crop. Roughly divide the planting into 3-4 parcels. Each Fall or Winter, harvest one parcel, and leave the others to grow for another season or two. Rotate each season.

Storage: 
Since tubers can be harvested at anytime, and since Groundnuts store best in the ground, some choose to only use fresh Groundnut straight from the garden. However, Groundnut can be stored in a moist, dark location (like in a plastic bag in a refrigerator) for up to a few months if conditions are right. Just avoid letting the tubers dry out as this can easily happen and ruins the crop.

Groundnut flowers are small, beautiful...

...and have a scent like violets.

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-10 for Groundnut (Apios americana)
AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information on this.
Chill Requirement: No reliable information on this; however, they can thrive in locations with hot and humid summers and do not grow well in the tropics. This causes experts to think that Groundnuts need some chill for proper growth and development.

Plant Type: Herbaceous vine (dies back each winter, but may leave thick stems in place)
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Underground Layer, Vertical/Climbing Layer, Groundcover/Creeper Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: There are a few improved varieties available.

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile
Flowering: June-September

Life Span:
Years to Become Established: 2-3 years
Years of Useful Life: No reliable information available

Seeds and seedpods of the Groundnut (with ruler in centimeters).

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 4-8 Feet (1.25-2.5 meters) tall if allowd to climb, 4 feet (1.25 meters) tall if spreading, and 1 foot (0.3 meters) wide, although it can spread indefinitely
Roots: Tuberous, Suckering (can send up shoots quite a distance from main plant)
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast

Groundnut has fairly distinct foliage.


GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade and still produces
Moisture: Medium, but can grow well in very moist soils that drain well
pH: Acidic to Neutral (5.1-7.0), Apios fortunei (Fortune's Groundnut) 3.5-8.5

Special Considerations for Growing:
  • May be slow to become established, but once it is established it can be expansive. May be a plant reserved for medium to large forest gardens.
  • Groundnut needs a trellis or other structure (non-fruiting tree?) on which to grow or it will need lost of room for expansion over the ground. Consider rhizome barriers if your space is limited and your tolerance of spread is low.
  • If growing Groundnut as a groundcover, then space the plantings 12-18" (0.3-0.4 meters) apart. It is a medium density groundcover plant, so it is best interplanted with other medium density groundcover plants (like lowbush blueberry, lignonberry, groundcover raspberry, thyme, yarrow, strawberry, violet, chives, chamomile, oregeno, etc.)... considering its ability to fix nitrogen and grow in acidic soils, blueberries and lignonberries are natural permaculture partners.
  • Groundnuts can be susceptible to parasitic nematodes in the deep South U.S.

Propagation: 
Usually, and most easily, by division of the tubers. May replant either a whole string of tubers or each tuber individually. Reported to become dormant for a season if not divided in the Autumn. Can be propagated via cuttings. May be propagated via seeds, but this is more difficult as germination can be difficult, seeds need scarification and soaking for at least 3 hours, and not all seeds are fertile.

Maintenance:
Minimal once established. May need to keep its growth in check with vigorous pruning/tuber harvesting if it becomes expansive.

Concerns:
May become expansive.

Great photo (by Jason Houston) of the Groundnut from the Orion Magazine article below.

Here is a great article on the wild forage of Groundnut (aka Hopniss) by Samuel Thayer, the author of The Forager's Harvest and Nature's Garden.

Here is another great article on Stalking the Wild Groundnut by Tamara Dean from Orion Magazine.


Friday, March 2, 2012

Permaculture Video: Weeds in an Edible Food Forest


This is another great video by Paul Wheaton from Permies.com.

This video takes on a tour of Michael Pilarski's Edible Food Forest. The forest is only a few years old, but there is an amazing amount of diversity.  The video is less than 15 minutes and well worth the time.