Battling the Dogma of Big Ag

I just wrote another article for AgriTrue. You can read the full article on their site (see link below). You can read more about AgriTrue here... unfortunately we have had some set-backs, but we are still working on making AgriTrue a reality.

Home Extension Agent Canning Demonstration 1932

http://digital.library.okstate.edu/encyclopedia/entries/C/images/CO053.jpg

I just read an article at the Hobby Farms website, Grow Smart: Keep Food Safe. I was frustrated with it for a number of reasons, but the underlying theme of this article was that we should be scared to raise our own food. What better way to keep the food production in the hands of the big agricultural corporations than to instill fear in those of us that would challenge them? I would recommend reading this short article first (follow this link), and then come on back and see what I have to say about it.
The article documents an interview with Roy Ballard, Purdue Extension educator for agriculture and natural resources. The Extension Services were meant to disseminate information to local farmers and home producers to make their lives better. Unfortunately, it seems that they are becoming just another mouthpiece for Big Ag. Here are a few of his quotes and my issues with them:

“It doesn’t matter if you’re a commercial wholesale grower, hobby farmer, home gardener or direct marketer, the risk of food-borne illness is the same and the precautions that need to be taken are very similar.”
Really? Does he really believe that the risk of my eating a handful of blackberries I picked from the canes growing up the wall in my garden with nothing ever sprayed on them and never even being irrigated is the same as eating blackberries imported to the U.S., which were grown in Mexico, grown under who knows what conditions, sprayed with a variety of chemicals, and then shipped to the local grocer, stocked, and sat on the shelf for a few days before being bought? This fails the common sense test, and unfortunately, I think he really believes what he said.

Read the rest of the article here...

Permaculture Plants: Sumac

Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina) is a great addition to the edge of a Forest Garden

http://blog.localfoody.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/StaghornSumac.jpg

Common Name: Sumac
Scientific Names: Rhus species
Family: Anacardiaceae (the Cashew or Sumac family)
Selected Species:

• Lemon/Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica)
• Winged/Shining/Dwarf Sumac (Rhus copallina)
• Elm-Leaved Sumac (Rhus coriaria)
• Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra)
• Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina)
• Punjab Sumac (Rhus punjabensis)
• Sourberry/Skunkbush (Rhus trilobata)
• Northern Hybrid Sumac (Rhux x pulvinata)

Harvested berry clusters of the Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina).

http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/Daytraderwon/Camp2/IMG_3633.jpg

Description:
Sumacs are a large family of shrubs, about 250 species, that primarily originate from North America and Africa. The shrubs from North America are best known for its lemony-tart fruit which was used by natives to make natural “pink lemonade”. In the Mediterranean, the flesh of the sumac berry is dried, ground, and used as a lemony spice. This was a common seasoning I really enjoyed while living in Turkey. All sumacs are drought resistant once established, larger species can be used as windbreaks, and smaller species are used as ornamentals. Many varieties are now being used around the world for prevention of soil erosion. They are all fantastic nectar and pollen sources for bees and other beneficial insects as well as providing Winter food and shelter in the thickets these plants can form if allowed.

History:

Native to North America and Africa, Sumac plants were used by natives for food (drink) and medicine. In more recent times, they have been "discovered" by landscapers and used as ornamental plants; however, there has been very little development of these plants, and so they remain rather “wild”.


Trivia:

• While closely related to Poison Sumac (Rhus toxicodendron), Poison oak (Rhus diversiloba) and Poison sumac (Rhus vernix), the species listed in this article are not poisonous.
• The powdered spice from the fruit of the Elm-Leaved Sumac (R. coriaria) is mixed with Syrian Oregano (Origanum vulgare syriacum) and other available spices (Basil, Thyme, etc) in the famous spice mix, Za'atar

 

 

The fruit of the Smooth Sumac (R. glabra).

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6691304109_ab789d814d_z.jpg

Sumac-ade from the Smooth Sumac (R. glabra) - all edible Sumac can make this drink!

http://the3foragers.blogspot.pt/2011_07_01_archive.html

USING THIS PLANT

Primary Uses:

• Fresh Eating - the fruit from Sumacs are small and very tart, so few people choose to eat them fresh
• Tea or Drink made from the berries – traditionally, you can place fruit into water and let soak in the sun to make a “pink lemonade”. Too hot of water releases the bitter tannins. But you can get a more concentrated juice by using some modern technology (here is a link to a site with a fantastic explanation of how to do this)
• Dried fruit may be ground (without the seed) and used as a spice – popular in Middle Eastern cuisine
• Immature fruit of some species (R. coriaria) can be used as a caper substitute
• Ornamental plant - flowers in Spring, fruit in the Summer, and crimson foliage in Autumn

Secondary Uses:

• General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
• Food source for wildlife – especially birds in Winter
• Thickets can create habitat for small birds and mammals and other wildlife
• Windbreaks (small to large) – can form thickets that are great at blocking or directing wind
• Prevention of soil erosion – thanks to fibrous network of roots
• Dyes can be made from all parts of the plant (leaves – brown, roots – yellow, inner bark – orange).
• It is also used as a mordant (substance that sets the dye).
• Ink – boiling leaves and fruit.
• Tanning
• Shoots can be used to make strong “pipes” which have been used for tapping maple trees and making flutes
• Some species can grow in maritime enviroments (Staghorn Sumac for sure, not clear on the other species)

Yield: No reliable information

Harvesting: October - December.
Storage: Best used fresh or dried

Sumac first turns orange in Autumn - Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina).

http://greenspade.com/wp-content/gallery/rhus-typhina/rhus-typhina-habit-fall.jpg

...and then turns a brilliant red - Winged/Shining/Dwarf Sumac (Rhus copallina)

http://www.treetopics.com/rhus_copallina/shining_sumac_0167.png

 

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT

USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-8
AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information available
Chill Requirement:Likely considering the Hardiness Zone and the flowering nature of the plant, but there is no reliable information available

Plant Type: Small Tree, Large Shrub, Medium Shrub, and Small Shrub (depending on the species)
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree for small Forest Garden, Sub-Canopy (Understory), Shrub Layer, or Groundcover (depending on the species/cultivar)
Cultivars/Varieties: Very few cultivars have been produced. This is a very “wild” plant 

Pollination: Staghorn Sumacs are dioecious (meaning there are male and female plants)
Flowering: Summer. June-August.

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 3-5 years
Years of Useful Life: Likely between 30-50 years (less for smaller specimens), but as this plant suckers so easily, this may be irrelevant.

Fruit of the tree-sized Punjab Sumac (R. punjabensis)

http://www.genobank.org/gdbnew/2009photos/%E9%9D%92%E8%97%8F%E9%AB%98%E5%8E%9F/%E6%9D%A8%E4%BA%B2%E4%BA%8C/RESTULT/YangQE2877/%E6%9E%9CDSC_0693.JPG

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT

Size:

• Lemon/Fragrant Sumac (R. aromatica) - 2-8 feet (0.6-2.4 meters) tall and 6-10 feet (1.8-3 meters) wide
• Winged/Shining/Dwarf Sumac (R. copallina) - 10-20 feet (3-6 meters) tall and wide, much smaller than the Staghorn Sumac, its relative that grows in the same parts of North America
• Elm-Leaved Sumac (R. coriaria)  - 10 feet (3 meters) tall and wide
• Smooth Sumac (R. glabra) - 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) tall and wide
• Staghorn Sumac (R. hirta/typhina) - 35-50 feet (10-15 meters) tall and wide, often much shorter
• Punjab Sumac (R. punjabensis) - 30-40 feet (9-12 meters) tall
• Sourberry/Skunkbush (R. trilobata) - 4-6 feet (1-1.8 meters) tall and wide
• Northern Hybrid Sumac (R. x pulvinata) - 6-9 feet (1.8-2.7 meters) tall and 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) wide

  

Roots: Fibrous roots that send up suckers which can develop into new plants
Growth Rate: Medium - Fast

"Gro-Low" cultivar of Lemon or Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica) is a great groundcover.

http://www.greenart.com/plantphotos/plnt-comp-shrubs/Rhus%20aromatica-fll.jpg

Fruit of the "Gro-Low" Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica cv)

http://extension.illinois.edu/photolib/lib17//midsize/gcover%2034a.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT

Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade
Moisture: Medium to dry soils, but can tolerate periods of drought once established
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0)

Propagation: Seed – germinates well after a 24 hour pre-soak in hot water. Root cuttings and sucker cuttings taken in late Autumn through Winter usually do well.

Maintenance:
Minimal.  If using this plant in the central portions of a Forest Garden, may need to keep the suckering roots from developing new plants – a quick snip of the clippers works well.

Concerns:

• Can spread easily through the suckering roots and/or through seed. This can be great if you are using it as a windbreak, but can create some additional work if you are using it in the middle of a Forest Garden.
• There are a number of unsubstantiated reports of Sumac being toxic or irritating to the skin, likely from this plant being related to Poison Sumac. This is not true in general; however, any person can develop an allergy to any plant at any time.

Windbreak Plants for a Temperate Climate

http://www.chipmackconservation.org/media/pages/windbreak.jpg

Windbreaks are structures used to block, or break the path, of wind. Many things can do this... mountains, hills, rocks, buildings, fences, and plants. The plants are the focus of this article. By using plants as our windbreak, we are have the ability to utilize a Permaculture Principle that encourages multiple functions for each element of design. Our windbreaks have a primary function that is typically one or more of the following:

• Structure protection - blocks cold winds in the winter (lowers heating bill) and drying winds in the summer (lowers evaporation and may protect from forest fires).
• Field protection - blocks wind from blowing too hard over places you would rather have more shelter like a garden near a rocky coast or a tree nursery that may not benefit from high winds
• Livestock shelter - blocks cold and/or wet winds from animals which makes them more comfortable and they need less food calories to maintain body heat
• Livestock fencing - living fences can be more solid and longer lasting (but also more permanent) and can be very effective if using a thorny or very dense growing plant
• Living Snow Fencing - keeps those deep snow drifts on the other side, away from where it may do more damage or cause greater inconvenience (like near a road or barn)

Secondary uses of windbreaks can be:

• Wildlife Habitat - providing some wild food for deer, rabbits, etc. can often keep them on "their" side of the fence and not in our primary food producing areas
• Screening - blocking poor views of neighbors, hosues, or other buildings and/or eyesores
• Noise Suppression - blocking or minimizing noise from a road, neighbors, etc.
• Trespassing Prevention - lining a property with dense growing, thorny plants will make four and two-footed tresspassers think twice about coming on your property

Choosing plants that have additional benefits than just wind blocking increases the usefulness of the windbreak. This is called "stacking functions" and, as mentioned above, it encourages multiple functions for each element of design. Here are some of the additional benefits that plants can offer:

• Edible fruit
• Edible nuts
• Edible other parts - shoots, leaves, flowers, etc.
• Timber
• Pole or Fence wood
• Firewood
• Nitrogen Fixing - the plant puts nitrogen back into the soil and can benefit other plants growing nearby
• Nectar or pollen source for beneficial insects
• Food for wildlife
• Ornamental properties - just plain nice to look at!

WINDBREAK SPECIES
Large Trees  - Over 10 meters (33 feet) tall

1. Italian Alders Alnus cordata - Nitrogen Fixer
2. Red Alders Alnus rubra - Nitrogen Fixer
3. Hackberry Celtis spp. - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
4. Ash Fraxinus spp. - Timber, Some species have edible manna (sweet, hardened sap)
5. Himalayan Sea Buckthorn Hippophae salicifolia - Nitrogen fixer, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
6. Eastern Redcedar Juniperus virginiana - Evergreen, Timber
7. Osage Orange Maclura pomifera - Living livestock fence (large thorns), Fence post wood, Fruit is a natural insect repellant
8. Mulberry Morus spp - Wild animal food, Edible Fruit
9. Spruce (Picea spp.) - Can be ornamental, Evergreen, Timber, Edible Tips of New Growth
10. Monterey Pine Pinus radiate - Evergreen, Timber, Paper
11. Corsican Pine Pinus nigra var maritime - Evergreen, Timber
12. Pinyon Pines Pinus spp. in the Ducampopinus Subgenus - Evergreen, Edible Seeds
13. American Sycamore/Buttonwood Platanus occidentalis - Urban shade tree, Edible Sap (can make a syrup)
14. Oak Quercus spp - Timber, Edible Nut
15. Black Locust Robinia pseudoacacia - Nitrogen Fixer, Timber, Firewood, Fence post wood, Edible Seed Pod

Small Trees - Under 10 meters (33 feet) tall

1. Bamboo spp. (Tribe Bambuseae) - Hundreds of species, some Evergreen, Some Edible Shoots, Canes have many uses
2. Redbud Cercis canadensis - Member of the pea family, may be a weak Nitrogen Fixer, Edible Flowers
3. Hawthorns Crataegus spp - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
4. Sea Buckthorn Hippophae rhamnoides - Nitrogen fixer, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
5. Crab and Other Apples Malus spp. - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
6. Pine Trees Pinus spp. - Evergreen, Edible Seeds
7. Cherry Plum Prunus cerasifera - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
8. Damson / Bullace Prunus insititia - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
9. Willow Salix spp - Basketry, Nectar Source
10. European Elder Sambucus nigra - Edible Fruit, Edible Flowers
11. Rowans/Whitebeams/Service Trees Sorbus spp. - Some with Edible Fruit

Large Shrubs -  3-8 meters (10-26 feet) tall

1. Alders Alnus spp - Nitrogen Fixer
2. Juneberries Amelanchier spp - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
3. Strawberry Tree Arbutus unedo - Evergreen, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
4. Bamboo spp. (Tribe Bambuseae) - Hundreds of species, some Evergreen, Some Edible Shoots, Canes have many uses
5. Barberries Berberis spp. - Some are evergreen, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
6. Dogwoods Cornus spp. - Edible Fruit
7. Hazels Corylus spp. - Edible Nuts
8. Cotoneaster Cotoneaster spp - Wildlife food source
9. Eleagnus Eleagnus x ebbingei - Evergreen, Nitrogen Fixer, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
10. Autumn Olive Eleagnus umbellata, Nitrogen Fixer, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
11. Plum Prunus spp. - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
12. Arrow Bamboo Pseudosasa japonica - Evergreen, Bamboo shoots/canes
13. Staghorn Sumac Rhus typhina - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
14. Roses Rosa spp - Edible Fruit, Edible Flowers (great in Salads)
15. Willow Salix spp - Basketry, Nectar Source
16. Elderberries Sambucus spp - Edible Fruit, Edible Flowers
17. Lilac Syringa spp - Ornamental, Nectar Source
18. Nannyberry/Sweet Viburnum Viburnum lentago - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
19. Highbush Cranberry Viburnum opulus var. americanum - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source

Small Shrubs - Less than 3 meters (10 feet) tall 

1. Green Alder Alnus viridis - Nitrogen Fixer
2. Serviceberry and Shadbush Amelanchier spp. - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
3. Saskatoon Amelanchier alnifolia - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
4. Chokeberries Aronia spp.- Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
5. Saltbushes Artiplex spp. - Evergreen, Edible Leaves
6. Barberries Berberis spp. - Some are evergreen, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
7. Siberian Pea Tree Caragana arboescens - Nitrogen Fixer, Edible Seed, Nectar Source
8. Red Osier Cornus stolonifera - Basketry
9. Hazels Corylus spp. - Edible Nuts
10. Cotoneaster Cotoneaster spp. - Wildlife food source
11. Broom Cytisus scoparius - Nitrogen Fixer, Nectar Source
12. Goumi Eleagnus multiflora - Some are evergreen, Nitrogen Fixer, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
13. Fever Bush Garrya elliptica - Evergreen
14. Salal Gaultheria shallon - Evergreen, Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
15. Juniper Juniperus communis - Evergreen, Edible Fruit
16. Oregon Grapes Mahonia spp. - Evergreen, Edible Fruit
17. New Zealand Flax Phormium tenax - Fiber, Twine
18. Ninebark Physocarpus spp. - Erosion Control, Nectar Source
19. Trifoliate Orange Poncirus trifoliate - Edible Fruit
20. Nanking Cherry Prunus tomentosa - Edible Fruit
21. Currants Ribes spp. - Edible Fruit, Leaves (tea)
22. Roses Rosa spp. - Edible Fruit, Edible Flowers (great in salads)
23. Chinese Bramble Rubus tricolor - Evergreen, Edible Fruit, Groundcover
24. Willow Salix spp. - Basketry, Nectar  Source
25. Snowberries Symphoricarpos spp - Nectar Source
26. Gorse Ulex europaeus - Nitrogen Fixer, Nectar Source

Vines

1. Honeysuckle Lonicera spp. - Edible Fruit, Wood for tools and crafts, Nectar Source
2. Roses Rosa spp. - Edible Fruit, Edible Flowers (great in salads)
3. Blackberry Rubus fruticosus - Edible Fruit, Nectar Source
4. Chinese Bramble Rubus tricolor - Evergreen, Edible Fruit, Groundcover

I'll update this article, and lists, from time to time as I get more research completed.

The Importance of Knowing Your Local Farmers

I just wrote another article for AgriTrue. You can read the full article on their site (see link below). You can read more about AgriTrue here... unfortunately we have had some set-backs, but we are still working on making AgriTrue a reality.

In the cooling room at Kenny's Farmhouse Cheese.

http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/bgdailynews.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/af/faf2ae91-c2bc-5809-91b0-b7d5899c9ba8/4fbf94230386f.image.jpg

I recently read about a recall of over 14 tons of ground beef in Vermont. This got me thinking about a number of things.

First, this is a lot of meat. I wondered how many steers (or old dairy cows) it takes to make 14 tons of ground beef...

Read the full article here

A Simple Compost Bin

Click here to learn how to build this compost bin.

 

Here is a rather simple compost bin design created and explained by Lee Reich in an article from Fine Gardening. Reich is the author of a number of gardening books that I have read and enjoyed. As I am about to build a compost bin, I have been searching for a good design. I may use this one with some modifications... I'll keep you posted.

For more information about composting, you can read my previous article.

What I am Brewing: Dark Ale #6

My dark ale, just before the yeast was pitched (added).

Temporary Name: Dark Ale #6
Finished Name: Still debating...


Comments:
My initial goals in designing this beer was to first, use only ingredients I had already, and second, to try and make a really dark Irish Red Ale. Beer Advocate descibes Irish Red Ales as: A bit sweet, with a lightly hopped tea-like flavor, and an even dextrinous body, Irish Red Ales are easy to please. Look for well-rounded and blanced flavors, and a pleasant toasted malt character in many examples. A drying finish is common.

Unfortunately, I think I made this one too dark. You can see in the photo how this is much more of a dark brown ale. When cleaning up my equipment after brewing, there is a red tint to everything, but I think I used too much of the Roasted Barley. We will see how this progresses.

Ingredients:

• 4 lbs - Muntons Dried Plain Light Malt
• 1 lb - Muntons Dried Plain Dark Malt
• 1 lb - Grains: Simpson's Dark Crystal
• 1/2 lb - Grains: Simpson's Roasted Barley
• 1/4 lb - Grains: Weyermann Cara Red
• 1.0 oz - Hops: First Gold Pellets (AA 8.0%), boiling hops
• 1.0 oz - Hops: Willamette Pellets, (AA 4.8%), finishing hops
• Yeast - Wyeast Irish Red Ale Yeast

Method:

• Simmer crushed grains in 2 gallons of water at 150-160 degrees F for 30 minutes.
• Remove grains.
• Bring to boil.
• Add malt extracts and boiling hops, and return to boil.
• Boil for 60 minutes.
• Add finishing hops for last 1 minute of boil.
• Strain into 5 gallon carboy with 2 gallons of cold water.
• Top off for total of 5 gallons.
• Add yeast when cool (below 75 degrees F).
• Ferment, rack, prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar, bottle, age, drink!

Nature and Human Health... The Big Disconnect

(click on the image to see it larger)

http://www.davidsuzuki.org

I have previously written about why I, as a physician, among many other reasons, am so excited about what Permaculture can do for us as individuals and as communities (read that article here). I came across this chart yesterday and really wanted to share it. This comes from the David Suzuki Foundation, a Canadian-based organization with the following mission and vision:

• Our mission is to protect the diversity of nature and our quality of life, now and for the future.
• Our vision is that within a generation, Canadians act on the understanding that we are all interconnected and interdependent with nature.

I couldn't agree more with their goals. The bottom line is that we, as humans, truly need to be outside in nature. It is vital to our health. Take a close look at the graph, and tell me if you don't agree.