Thursday, August 23, 2012

Using Succession in Permaculture

Martin Crawford, the UK's premier Forest Gardener in his own Forest Garden.
 
 
I recently wrote about succession in ecosystems. So, how do we apply that knowledge? This is a great place to utilize Permaculture Principle One: Observe and Interact. Now that we have a better understanding of succession, we can answer an important question when we are evaluating or “observing” a piece of land. What state of succession is this land in right now? Likely, our answer will be something like this: The section over here is in a Steady State (or close to it). The section over there is Oldfield Mosaic. This area that used to be a corn field is just entering Soil Initiation.

The “interact” portion of Permaculture Principle One has a bit more to it. It really depends on our goals. Most people would naturally think that our goal should be do develop and design for a Climax or Steady State. However, we now know that production peaks in mid-succession. When exactly this occurs is a lot more difficult to pin down, but it is typically somewhere from the Oldfield Mosaic stage to the Transition to early Climax stage. We also know that diversity increases with more disturbances. In a sense, we never want our land to arrive at the Climax stage, but we would rather it continuously cycle between disturbance and secondary succession.

It is those disturbances that we will create and manage to keep our ecosystem productive. We don’t do this with burning down our forest or bulldozing all the fruit trees, but we do it with pruning, culling, coppicing, and harvesting. We can also manage the secondary succession, give it direction, and help it on its way.

So how is this done? Let’s take a closer look at each of these methods.

Pruning – this is trimming a plant to accomplish a number of goals. It can be used to trim away diseased portions of the plant. It can be used to trim away dead or old non-productive branches. It can be used to open up space for a view or to cut back overgrowth on a trail or path. It can be used to allow more sunlight through the branches. It can be used to thin a tree to allow more wind to go through the plant than over and around it. It can be used to shorten the plant for easier harvest or to prevent it from growing over a roof or into electric lines. It can be used to train a plant to grow in a certain pattern or direction. The list can go on and on. Whatever the reason for our pruning, it allows more sun and rainfall through, and therefore changes the microclimate underneath. We can plant species that will grow well in this new microclimate or let the understory change on its own.

Culling – this is removing a plant for a number of reasons. We cull plants because they are too big, too small, too expansive, too much work, not productive enough, not a species or variety we like (appearance, fruit, etc.), if it was planted in the wrong place years ago, if it is casting too much shade, blocking too much wind, blocking a view, too disease or pest prone, etc. When we cull a plant, especially a large shrub or tree, we suddenly have a very large area underneath no exposed to sunlight, rainfall, evaporation, decreased shade, decreased leaf fall, etc. This is an opportunity for sun loving plants fill that void. We can let nature decide, but better yet (since this is typically a much larger space) we can immediately fill that gap with plants that would do well in that new microclimate. Fill it will plants that can benefit us and the ecosystem as a whole.

Coppicing – this is cutting trunk and branches from a tree to harvest the wood while not killing the plant. In a number of years, and this varies depending on species and climate, the plant can be harvested again. Read this article for a more in depth description. Coppicing lies between pruning and culling. It significantly opens up a large gap as culling does, but it does not leave that space open for other large shrubs or trees to take over. Plant species with shorter life spans can grow, mature, and produce a good harvest for a few years before the coppiced plant shades out the understory again. Blackberries and gooseberries are shrubs that can fill this niche, but many herbaceous perennials will as well. Herbs and even annual vegetable gardens can be even placed here for a few years. This will take advantage of the good soil that had been building up under the tree, and will give us reason to rotate our annual vegetable plot locations. We just need to keep in mind root depth, as the coppiced tree stump or “chair” is still there in the ground (so root crops like carrots may not be a great idea), and negative allelopathy, the ability for some plants (e.g. black walnut) to produce chemicals from their roots and fallen leaves that inhibit growth of other plants.

Harvesting – this is taking anything from the plant that we are going to use. Harvesting the fruit or leaves off a plant typically is not done in such a way as to change the microclimate around the plant. The type of harvesting that will change the microclimate is with coppicing or significant pruning (e.g. bamboo).

Managing Secondary Succession – As described above, anytime we create a new microclimate and have the opportunity to sow seeds or place new plants in that location, we are, in effect, managing secondary succession. We could let nature do this on its own, but we will likely end up with plants that are considered “weeds”. What this really means is that plants for which we don’t have a significant use have filled a place we would rather grow other species. So let’s beat those less than desirable plants to the punch. If we completely fill that new location with beneficial plants and seeds that are well suited for that microclimate, then our plants will typically out-compete those other plants. If we do this over and over again with any disturbance that occurs, whether planned or unplanned, then we will eventually have a very diverse, very resilient ecosystem that is chock full of plants for which we have direct or indirect use. Direct use would be the harvest of fruit, vegetable, wood, fuel, cordage, medicinals, animal feeds, etc. Indirect use would be beneficial insect attractors, dynamic accumulators, mulch plants, windbreak plants, barrier plants, etc.

So, in closing, this is a general overview of utilizing the concepts of succession in an established woodlot or forest garden. I’ll be writing soon about how to apply succession in the development of an empty field.
 

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Joel Salatin on Local Food


Joel Salatin, pioneering farmer of sustainable agriculture and icon of the local food movement in the United States, is one of my most inspirational mentors... who I've never met. Here he is in another interview discussing sustainable agriculture and local food. Brilliant, as always.

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

What is Succession?

Forest Garden Succession
(click on the image to enlarge)


In ecology, as well as in Permaculture, there is a concept known as succession. This is the idea that an ecosystem will transition through stages of growth and maturation. To look at it simply, an empty field will first grow weeds and grasses then shrubs and small fast growing trees then more mature, longer-lived trees until a forest is formed. The individual species and final result will vary depending on where in the world this occurs with its macroclimate and microclimates taken into account.

How do we define the basic steps in succession starting from a piece of bare, lifeless ground to a self-sustaining forest? There are a number of ways to categorize and describe it; following is the system I prefer:
  1. Bare soil – No life here at all
  2. Soil Initiation – Bacteria then Algae begin to grow and spread
  3. Crust – Lichens, Mosses
  4. Oldfield – Annual herbs and grasses, then Herbaceous perennials
  5. Oldfield Mosaic – Shrubs begin to grow, then Sun-loving trees
  6. Stand Initiation – Maturation of Sun-loving trees
  7. Understory Repression – the previous herbs, grasses, herbaceous perennials, and shrubs that cannot tolerate shade will die back
  8. Stand Differentiation – as faster lived trees die back, the slower growing trees fill in the gaps to complete the canopy layer
  9. Understory Reinitiation – this really occurs with Stand Differentiation, and is when shade tolerant plants (sub-canopy trees, shrubs, herbs, etc.) establish under the canopy layer
  10. Climax – this is the stable, self-replicating, self-sustaining ecosystem

Of course, since this is nature, there are a number of problems with any simplistic generalizations. First, there really is no place that naturally occurs where there is Bare Soil and no life. Man has created a few of these places, way too many, in fact, but they are very uncommon. Second, at the other end of our succession scale we find Climax. Unfortunately, in nature we rarely find a place that is in true Climax either.

Third, succession is not linear. What we really see in nature is a piece of land in various stages of succession. There may be a large forest somewhere close to a Climax stage when a storm blows down a massive tree. The sudden opening of the canopy, which lets in a lot more light, causes that one section to revert many years or decades, maybe to the Oldfield stage. Forest fires, floods, drought, pests, disease, and man-made interventions like logging, mining, etc. can all cause a disturbance in the natural progression of linear succession. What we actually see in nature is a constant cycling back around through these stages. This is known as a Shifting Mosaic.

In the Shifting Mosaic theory there are a few phases:
  1. Primary Succession – described above
  2. Disturbance – described above
  3. Reorganization – the ecosystem reestablishes control of the energy flows of nutrients, sunlight, water, etc.
  4. Aggradation Stage – this is just a fancy way of saying the “building up” stage; has also been called Secondary Succession
  5. Transition – this is where the ecosystem is maturing, but is not yet at the Climax stage
  6. Steady State – this is another way of describing the Climax stage

Again, this does not perfectly describe what happens in nature. Ecosystems will cycle through the disturbance, reorganization, aggradation, transition phases only to be hit with another disturbance before a steady state has been reached. This will happen over and over again. Also, the idea of a stead state is also not static or stable. There are always shiftings of species diversity and plant density and small disturbances with isolated reorganization and aggradation here and there. I love David Jacke’s phrase for this: Cycles of Succession and Wobbling Stability.

It is important to keep in mind that this non-linear journey of succession actually leads to a more diverse ecosystem in the long run. There are more opportunities for new plant species to grow and develop a niche.

So there you have it. A quick primer on ecosystem succession. I'll be writing soon on how to apply this to Permaculture design.
  

Monday, August 20, 2012

Making Sauerkraut

 Sauerkraut just waiting to be made!

I have to be honest. When I was a kid, sauerkraut was one of the most disgusting things I ever could imagine eating. My dad would eat it on occasion, but I could barely stand the sight of it let alone the smell. Now I was a fairly picky eater. This was partially my own fault, but it was partially how we ate as a family. We ate pretty healthy foods, but we did not eat a wide variety of foods. If my mom would have brought in a bunch of new foods, the chances of us eating them would have been awfully slim.

Fast forward a few decades and I eat everything. I started trying new foods on a regular basis after I started living on my own and started cooking for myself. Now there is not really any food or drink that I will not eat. Well, I take that back. Goat head stew. That is one meal I will never eat... again. I did eat it once, and that was enough. So other than goat head stew, I will eat anything.

I decided to try sauerkraut again a few years ago when I was in Germany. I thought that if anyone could make sauerkraut the right way, if there was any chance that I would overcome my sauerkraut aversion, than it would have to be in Germany. Sauerkraut was offered in every restaurant and deli that I entered. With so many people eating sauerkraut so often, I needed to see what I had been missing. As it turns out, I was missing a lot. There are hundreds of varieties of sauerkraut, all with that characteristic and wonderful sour, tangy flavor which turns out to be the product of lactic acid fermentation.

After getting settled here in the Azores, I finally got up the nerve to try my hand at making sauerkraut. I ferment beer and apple cider, why not cabbage?

As it so happens, making sauerkraut is extremely simple. All you really need is some cabbage and some salt. That's it. I made mine slightly more complicated by adding carrots and onion. The photo at the top shows everything I used.

So here it is. This is the method I used:
  1. Chop cabbage up into 1/8-1/4 inch ribbons (like you are making cole slaw).
  2. Chop the onions the same way - I chopped my even thinner
  3. Shred the carrots
  4. Sprinkle on some salt - roughly 3 tablespoons is what I used for 2 heads of cabbage
  5. Put everything into a large bowl
  6. Mash it all up with your hands... I mean really grab some handfuls and squeeze the juice out of it, literally. Just crush it as much as you can over and over and over, mixing everything up as you go.
  7. Eventually, you will be accumulating fluid at the bottom of the bowl, this is the goal, this is your natural "brine"
  8. Put the cabbage mixture and brine into a crock or large mouth jar.
  9. Press the cabbage down firmly and repeatedly until the brine covers the mix.
  10. Place a smaller plate or lid on top of the cabbage to keep it covered.
  11. Place a weight of some sort (jar of water, ziplock bag of water, clean rock, etc.) on top of the plate. This keeps the cabbage all submerged under the brine.
  12. Taste it every few days. You'll need to repack the sauerkraut everytime you take out a sample, but this takes less than a minute.

The first few days, this sauerkraut was not great. It wasn't bad, but it tasted more like a soggy coleslaw. Then within about a week, the fermentation really got going. There was a layer of frothy bubbles pouring out from the sides of the plate I was using to keep the cabbage submerged. Underneath was a tangy, crunchy, pretty darn good sauerkraut. I am really excited to see how this matures over the next few weeks to months.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Permaculture Plants: Alder

Alders can be large trees or medium-sized shrubs.


Common Name: Alder
Scientific Name: Alnus species
Family: Betulaceae (the Birch family)

Common Species:
  • Italian Alder (Alnus cordata) – Medium, standard tree
  • Black/Common Alder (Alnus glutinosa) – Large, standard tree
  • Gray/Thinleaf Alder (Alnus incana) – Large, standard tree
  • Seaside Alder (Alnus maritime) – Medium, standard tree
  • Red Alder (Alnus rubra) – Large, standard tree
  • Speckled Alder (Alnus incana subspecies rugosa) – Very large, multi-stemmed shrub
  • Smooth/Hazel Alder (Alnus serrulata) – Large, multi-stemmed shrub
Red Alder buds and leaves.

 
Description:
Alders are very fast growing large shrubs to tall trees found throughout the Northern Hemisphere. One of the few trees that put nitrogen back into the soil, these plants have many other uses including windbreaks, hedges, firewood, timber, pollen and nectar source for beneficial insects, erosion control, habitat restoration, and traditional medicine to name but a few. Definitely a plant worth considering if you have the room.


Alnus glutinosa

History:
There are 30 species of flowering trees and shrubs that are native to the northern Temperate Climates of the Earth. They are mainly pioneer species that have been used as windbreaks and hedges as well as for wood. Most native cultures have medicinal uses for different parts of the plant as well. However, there has been very little development of these plants.

Trivia:
Alder’s flowers are born in cylindrical clusters called catkins.


Alder flowers (catkins) are not large, but attract a lot of beneficial insects.

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Ornamental tree or large shrub
  • Nitrogen Fixer – puts nitrogen back into the soil which may be used as a fertilizer to other plants (actinorhizal)
  • Windbreak or hedge (some species are great in maritime climates: Black, Italian, Gray, Seaside Alders)
  • Wood – Firewood, Timber, Furniture, Paper, Mushroom Production

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect (especially bees) nectar and pollen plant
  • Coppice plant (harvest every 12-25 yrs for kindling, firewood, tool handles, crafts, poles, fence posts, charcoal, and in any situation where the wood needs to be repeatedly exposed to water)
  • Plants with a shrub form can provide shelter for wildlife
  • Living Trellis – the lower branches can be pruned to allow fruiting vine species a place to grow. The fruiting plant typically then gets a natural boost of nitrogen from the Alder trellis.
  • Erosion Control - can be used to protect soil from erosion on steep banks
  • Fantastic pioneer species – a plant used to re-establish woodlands on former farmlands or eroded/difficult sites (fixes nitrogen, grows fast, produces lots of leaf litter for soil building, and dies back as other trees shade it out)
  • Biomass Production – since Alnus grows so fast
  • Dye from bark, shoots, catkins (mainly from Black Alder)
  • Tanning – leaves contain high amounts of tannin
  • Edible Catkins - raw or cooked, used as an emergency food source (Red Alder)
  • Edible Sap – can be used straight or concentrated to a syrup (Red Alder)
  • Traditional medicinal uses (primarily bark)

When young most Alders have horizontal patterns to the bark.

But as it ages, it gets more thick and fissured.

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: See below
AHS Heat Zone: See below (not all species have reliable Heat Zone information)
  • Italian Alder (Alnus cordata) – USDA Hardiness Zone 6-9; AHS Heat Zone 9-6
  • Black/Common Alder (Alnus glutinosa) – USDA Hardiness Zone 3-7; AHS Heat Zone 3-7
  • Gray/Thinleaf Alder (Alnus incana) – USDA Hardiness Zone 2-6; AHS Heat Zone 6-1
  • Seaside Alder (Alnus maritime) – USDA Hardiness Zone 7
  • Red Alder (Alnus rubra) – USDA Hardiness Zone 4-7; AHS Heat Zone7-1
  • Speckled Alder (Alnus incana subspecies rugosa) – USDA Hardiness Zone 2-6
  • Smooth/Hazel Alder (Alnus serrulata) – USDA Hardiness Zone 5-8
Chill Requirement: No reliable information available, but as this is not a fruit plant, a chill requirement is not that important.

Plant Type: Medium to Large Tree, Medium to Large Shrub depending on the species
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Canopy Layer, Shrub Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species but very little development

Pollination: By wind. Flowers are monoecious (individual flowers are either male or female, but both can be found on the same plant).
Flowering: Spring, except for Seaside Alder which blooms in the Autumn

Life Span:
Years of Useful Life: Red Alder (Alnus rubra) can live to 100 years. Black/Common Alder (Alnus glutinosa) can live to 150 years


Alder poles being used as both a windbreak and a trellis for peas.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size:
  • Italian Alder (Alnus cordata) – 30-50 feet (9-15 meters) tall and 20-35 (6-10 meters) feet wide
  • Black/Common Alder (Alnus glutinosa) – 60-80 feet (18-25 meters) tall and 20-35 feet (6-10 meters) wide
  • Gray/Thinleaf Alder (Alnus incana) – 40-60 feet (12-18 meters) tall and 25-40 feet (7-12 meters) wide
  • Seaside Alder (Alnus maritime) – 20-30 feet (6-9 meters) tall and wide
  • Red Alder (Alnus rubra) – 40-60 feet (12-18 meters) tall and 25-40 feet (7-12 meters) wide
  • Speckled Alder (Alnus rugosa) – 20-35 feet (6-11 meters) tall and wide
  • Smooth Alder (Alnus serrulata) – 12-20 feet (3.5-6 meters) tall and wide
Roots: Fibrous (Smooth Alder (Alnus serrulata) has suckering roots)
Growth Rate: Fast to Very Fast
Oyster mushrooms growing on a downed Alder log.
Alder can also be innoculated with mushroom spawn to farm your own mushrooms.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun to light shade
Shade: Tolerates light shade
Moisture: Trees can handle dry soils, but all Alnus species can grow in wet soils
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (5.5-7.5)

Special Considerations for Growing:
Relatively disease and pest free.

Propagation:
Primarily from seed. Hardwood cuttings in Autumn.

Maintenance:
None

Concerns:
None

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Earth Illuminated... an amazing video!


This video compilation of time-lapse photography from the International Space Station is truly amazing. It is great to watch something that restores the wonder of our natural world.



Tuesday, August 14, 2012

How a Community Fed Itself. Another look at Todmorden

Vegetable beds in front of the Police Station in Todmorden, UK.


Not too long ago, I shared this article about Todmorden, a town growing all its own vegetables. Apparently, I was not the only one who thought this was a revolutionary idea. The TED Conference organization who promotes "ideas worth sharing" hosted Pam Warhurst, the motivating person behind this UK town's gardening revolution. I highly recommend taking the 13 minutes to watch this video. This truly is an idea worth sharing.