Book Review: Charcuterie

Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing

I received this book from one of my siblings at Christmas. In short, I love it! I recently wrote an article about why I enjoy learning and practicing food preservation (read that article here). I have already tried a few recipes from this book. My favorit so far was the pork confit from my own rendered lard... it was the most tender pork I have ever tasted. My 18-month old daughter almost ate as much as I did! I find it more than interesting that a baby can instictually know quality food. I think it is great.

If you are a foodie and a cook and a person who enjoys meat. You will likely love this book as much as I did. I highly recommend it.

I love this review posted on Amazon:
Starred Review. Without the faintest hint of apology, Ruhlman and Polcyn present an arsenal of recipes that take hours, and sometimes days, to prepare; are loaded with fat; and, if ill-prepared, can lead to botulism. The result is one of the most intriguing and important cookbooks published this year. Ruhlman (The Soul of a Chef) is a food poet, and the pig is his muse. On witnessing a plate of cold cuts in Italy, he is awed by "the way the sunlight hit the fat of the dried meats, the way it glistened, the beauty of the meat." He relates and refines the work of Polcyn, a chef-instructor at a college in Livonia, Mich., who butchers a whole hog "every couple weeks for his students." Together, they make holy the art of stuffing a sausage, the brining of a corned beef and the poaching of a salted meat in its own fat. An extensive chapter on pâtés and terrines is entitled "The Cinderella Meat Loaf" and runs the gamut from exotic Venison Terrine with Dried Cherries to hearty English Pork Pie with a crust made from both lard and butter. And while there's no shortage of lyricism, science plays an equally important role. Everyone knows salt is a preservative, for example, but here we learn exactly how it does its job. And a section on safety issues weighs the dangers of nitrites and explains the difference between good white mold and the dangerous, green, fuzzy stuff.

Here are some other reviews of this fine book:
Charcuterie is an important and definitive work which deserves to stand proudly and forever in every serious cook's kitchen. -- Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential

Charcuterie provides an open window on the delicious possibilities available to the home cook and professional chef alike. -- Paul Bertolli, author of Cooking By Hand

Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn have opened the door for home cooks everywhere to experience the thrill of making charcuterie. -- Mario Batali, chef/owner of Babbo Restaurant, New York

Never has the art of charcuterie been handled this thoroughly for the home cook. -- Lynne Rossetto Kasper, host of American Public Media's national radio series The Splendid Table®

The best techniques to cure, smoke and preserve meat in the tradition of the best charcutiers out there. -- Eric Ripert, chef/co-owner of Le Bernardin Restaurant, New York

Why Learn to Preserve Food?

Portuguese-style Cured Iberian Ham - delicious!

http://lusitaniatradition.com/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/a/paleta_de_barrancos_dop_01.jpg

For quite some time, I have been intruiged with the idea of food preservation, specfically historic food preservation. Humans have preserved food for thousands of years to make it through lean months, most often for the Winter. It is only in the last generation or two, and really only in "modern" cultures, where we have lost this vital knowledge. The reason? Electric refrigeration. The modern refrigerator and freezer are amazing pieces of technology, and I will have and use them as long as I have electricity. However, I think it is important not to lose the knowledge and skills to preserve food. I have a few reasons for this. (I'll be dramatic and outline my reasons in reverse order of importance):

Fifth - We may not always have electricity.
Therefore, we may not always have refrigerators and freezers. Don't worry. I do not think we are going to have some apocolyptic event or some Mad Max-type world, but I do think we have already reached Peak Oil on a global scale. How much time before we start feeling global oil depletion is still up for debate. Alternate energy sources are still not nearly as readily available as electricity from a city or county municipality. There may be a period of time when petroleum-based electricity is waning and alternative-energy-based electricity is phasing in where we may have gaps in service or the price of electricity is just not worth running high electritical use appliances (i.e. refrigerators, freezers, dryers, air conditioners, etc.). The probability for this may be pretty low, but since it is possible, I would like to be a bit better prepared. Reading about food preservation is one thing, actually doing it is another.

Preserved Lemons... so easy to do!

http://www.sallypasleyvargas.com/2010/12/kiss-cook-give-gift-of-preserved-lemons.html

Fourth - Preserving our own food saves money.
Let's look at blackberries. When you are buying blackberries out of season for your local area, they are very expensive. If you buy berries in the Winter, they are imported from overseas, and are going to cost a lot more... and not taste nearly as good. However, if you buy the blackberries during your local blackberry season, then the cost will be much lower, the taste will be much better, and you can preserve them yourself in a variety of ways... as jams, jellies, preserves, or even frozen. Even with what I just said about electricity and freezers, a freezer is a great tool. If you buy and freeze blackberries during the peak of your local season, you will save significant money. Now some will argue that buying already frozen blackberries from the store can be cheaper than doing it all yourself. Sometimes this may be true, but most often it is not. If you grow your own blackberries, the cost goes down even more. And if you pick wild blackberries and preserve them, then the cost is next to nothing other than time. Spending time outside in nature, preferably with friends and/or family, walking and harvesting wild foods... this is not wasted time, and it is probably a better activity than what many now do on their weekends.

Third - It is fun!
I love to cook, and I really enjoy preserving foods. Fortunately I know I am not alone. There are so many different aspects that make it enjoyable. If you have an interest in cooking, baking, gardening, foraging, history, anthropology, homesteading, preparedness, or health, then you can find some aspect of food preservation which will be enjoyable.

My red cabbage sauerkraut... simple and delicious.

http://www.tcpermaculture.blogspot.pt/2012/08/sauerkraut-update.html

Second - It is healthier.
If you have recently looked at the label of almost any food in a grocery store, especially one that does not require refrigeration, then you know that these foods are full of  chemicals we would never add to foods prepared in our own kitchens. In Michael Pollan's book, In Defense of Food, he states a few general rules on buying food. One of these rules states that if you cannot pronounce an ingredient on the label, then you probably shouldn't eat it that food. I whole-heartedly agree. When we preserve our own foods, we know exactly what is it in and why. We can choose to add, or not add, ingredients based on our own tastes and health opinions.

First - Flavor! Flavor! Flavor!
This is my number one reason. Homemade preserved foods can taste far superior to what you can buy in the supermarket. We have the ability to use the best ingredients instead of the leftovers. We have the ability to use homegrown ingredients. We can preserve meats that were organically raised or grass fed or both. We can take the time to "do it right" or make things traditionally, which often take a bit more time and is why mass-produced items don't taste the same. With the widespread use of refrigerators and freezers, we don't need to produce preserved meats or fermented vegetables or even preserved fruits, but we still do. Why? Because we like the taste. When we produce it ourselves, the flavors are better. When we take the time, we can taste it, and we will savor every bite.

Dehydrating Figs

My dried Figs... delicious!

  

I recently wrote about how our fig tree that is just pumping out the figs. I can fill up a plastic grocery bag with ripe figs every two or three days. That means a lot of figs. I have already shared my recipe for Pineapple, Port, & Fig Sauce. Today, I'll just share some photos of the dehydration process.

 

We have an Excaliber dehydrator, and I highly recommend it. This dehydrator is simple to use, easy to clean, comes in many sizes, and the company has great service and warranties, but it is not incredibly cheap. If you are not ready to buy a dehydrator, you can use your oven or even use your car (see this article on dehydrating in your car).

 

My biggest advice for food preservation, is to just get in there and try it. For more information on dehydrating, I recommend Dehydrate 2 Store, and as a great resource for dehydration tips and tools. She does use and promote the Excaliber, but she provides a goldmind of free information.

  

I started out with lots of figs and quickly washed then is some fresh water.

  

The figs were quartered and laid on the drying trays, dried for about 24 hrs, and that was it.

 

My New Sauerkraut

My new sauerkraut

I wish my good computer was working so I could color correct this photo. This kraut almost glows in the dark it is so bright pink, and the taste is fantastic!

I recently wrote about my first attempt at making sauerkraut. That sauerkraut was good, but the kraut I made next was really, really good. It was made with one head of green cabbage, one head of red cabbage, one apple, one tablespoon of caraway seeds, and about three tablespoons of salt. I let it ferment for about 5 days at room temperature, it gave a moderate amount of bubbling, and turned a brilliant, bright pink. The taste is amazing. Perfectly sour. Tart but not overpowering. Subtle sweetness and with a hint of caraway. I love it. If you like sauerkraut, then give this one a try.

Fruit Leather

Fruit Leathers are a traditional method of preserving a fruit harvest.

http://simplyrecipes.com/photos/fruit-leather.jpg

I recently got a great, brief question from a reader, Kyan:
"Would you be willing to do a post on fruit leather? I've never heard of it before."


If you've ever eaten a "Fruit Roll-Up", as many kids in the U.S. have, then you are familiar with the idea of a Fruit Leather... even if you've never heard the name.  Although making your own is significantly healthier than the store bought, mass-produced variety; plus it's a lot of fun, and kids (and grown-up kids) love them!

If you look online there are literally hundreds of recipes for making Fruit Leather, but they all involve the same process...

Thicker Fruit Leathers take longer to dehydrate.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0S1cZkHb7bRI_eXLVUsXK8oIrzfZ67BUmbqJ6vwanoQ2I40VuG3ixb-BrBzBo8oNgb1pQQeV3rcCNSH1sNvtlQaECYbTKKMTdV3BxyEtfht6xWe5RvuA_-4SSEqEEkITZo3uH5DTPk4M/s400/CIMG3538.JPG

Instructions for Making Fruit Leather

1. Obtain the freshest, ripest fruit possible.
2. Clean the fruit if needed.
3. Cut up the fruit if needed. Discard bruised or damaged areas.
4. Optional Step - Add a color stabilizer. The most natural is lemon or lime juice, but some people make a liquid dip from a mixture of water and ascorbic acid crystals (easily purchased at large grocery stores). Fruit chunks are allowed to soak for about 5 minutes. This step is used for apples, apricots, pears, and peaches.
5. Puree the fruit in a blender - may need to add a small amount of water so the fruit blends well and the puree pours well. The texture should be close to applesauce. 
6. Optional Step - Strain the puree. This gives a smoother texture, but also removes some of the fiber and nutrients from the puree.
7. Optional Step - Add a sweetener. I think honey is the healthiest, plus it gives a good texture. Plain table sugar can be used, but it can give the Fruit Leather a granular (almost crunchy) texture. Concentrated fruit juice can also be used - this can be store bought or homemade by heating fresh fruit juice over low heat for a long time until a large portion of the water evaporates, and you are left with a very sweet, thick sauce.
8. Pour the puree onto a flat surface for drying. This is where things can vary tremendously.  See Drying Methods below. The thickness of the poured puree should be about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) thick. Try to keep the puree about an inch (2.5 cm) from the edge as it will spread as it dries.
9. Remove the dried Fruit Leather, cut to size if needed, roll up or store flat in a clean, dry location (a paper bag works well, but fruit leathers can be frozen.
10. Fruit Leathers will store for three weeks at room temperature, three months in a refrigerator, or up to a year if frozen.

Dehydrators or Ovens can be used to dry the fruit puree.

http://georgiapellegrini.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/DSC6641.jpg

Drying Methods for Fruit Leather

• NOTE - drying times can vary significantly on the method used, the consistency of the puree and the types of fruits used. It is recommended that you begin checking your Fruit Leather after the first 2-3 hours of drying. 
• Dehydrator - this is the easiest method. The puree is poured onto plastic sheets provided with the dehydrator. If your dehydrator does not have the plastic sheets, then a layer of plastic wrap will work fine. 
• Oven - this method works just as well, but may take a little experimentation to get it just right. Place plastic wrap on a cookie sheet. Pour the puree on the plastic wrap covering the cookie sheet. If you wet the cookie sheet a little, the plastic will stay in place on the cookie sheet better. Place the oven on its lowest setting, and crack the oven door open - this is very important as it lets the moist air escape. Ideal temperature is 100 F (37 C). Most ovens cannot be set that low, so just set the oven to the lowest setting, and watch the drying fruit - higher temps will dry faster. 

                    - At 100 F (37 C) it will take about 12-16 hours.
                    - At 150 F (65 C) it will take about 8-10 hours.

A beautiful raspberry Fruit Leather

http://www.passionatehomemaking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/fruit-leather-588x391.jpg

This is the very basic method for making Fruit Leathers. As I said, there are many, many recipes online that include spices (cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, ginger, vanilla, etc.), chopped fruit with the puree (raisins, dates, dried apricots, dried coconut, etc.), or other random ingredients (peanut butter, chopped nuts, pumpkin, yogurt, etc.), and even brandy or liqueur (uh... not for most kids) can be added to the puree. The variations are almost endless, and the results are delicious!

Basics of Lactic Acid Fermentation

Sauerkraut is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to lactic acid fermented foods.

http://samabelle.pbworks.com/f/sauerkraut.jpg

What is Lactic Acid Fermentation, and why would we want to know anything about it?

Here's a scientific definition:
Lactic Acid Fermentation is a biological process by which sugars such as glucose, fructose, and sucrose are converted into cellular energy, and the metabolic byproduct Lactate is formed.

So, that's a bit of a mouthful, and not very useful for the non-scientists among us.

How about this definition:
Lactic Acid Fermentation is a process used to store foods (mostly vegetables) long term without using heat, cold, or preservatives, yet retains the nutritional value and original freshness of the food.

Okay, that is better. 

Pickles made the original way... far superior in flavor in my opinion.

http://tipnut.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/crock2.jpg

So what are Lactic Acid Fermented Foods?
Ever had Sauerkraut? Kimchi? Old-fashioned Pickles? Olives? Yogurt? Sourdough bread?
These are all examples of common foods produced through Lactic Acid Fermentation.

How about Magou? Kefir? Laban Zeer? Nham? Balao Balao? Gundruk? Sinki?
Yeah, I've never tried these foods either, but I hope to one day.

Here is a traditional Nepalese meal made with Grundruk... lactic acid fermented leafy greens.

http://www.restaurantsnepal.com/images/Gundruk.jpg

Why should we care about Lactic Acid Fermentation?  I have a few reasons:

1. It is relatively easy. Seriously. Fresh, clean vegetables. Salt. Maybe some water. And a little time.
2. It is pretty cheap. All you needs are the fresh foods and maybe a little salt and/or water. Food prices are rapidly increasing (see my article on the Rising Cost of Food), and the more food we can grow AND preserve will be money saved.
3. It preserves our food. When we have a bumper crop of vegetables from the garden, here is just another way to extend the shelf-life of that food. Much better than letting it go bad and (hopefully) just ending up in the compost pile.
4. It tastes good! This is a big priority to me. I'm not going to waste my time on something that doesn't taste good. I've only had a few foods that were make with traditional lactic acid fermentation. Most "modern day" foods that were once preserved through lactic acid fermentation are now made other ways (like vinegar preservation) or are killed by heating before storing (hot water canning). But the flavor of fresh yogurt, real sauerkraut, real pickles!  It is worth it, trust me.
5. It is healthy. More and more research is showing that these fermented foods may, in some cases, be healthier than the fresh food. Mineral content stays the same, but some vitamins increase. The bioavailability of the nutrients in the fermented foods can also increase... meaning, the nutrients found in these foods are more readily absorbed by our bodies after fermentation. Not to mention that the bacteria that ferment these foods end up in our gastrointestinal tract and improve our digestive processes, which also leads to improved absorption of foods, which leads to better health. Now to be fair, these foods may be fairly salty. Lactic Acid Fermented foods should be a part of a well-rounded diet, not the primary component.
6. It uses very little energy and resources. No heat from stoves. No electricity for refrigerators or freezers. Minimal water. Just the vegetables we grow and maybe some salt. That's it.
7. It provides yet another way for us to be a bit more self-sufficient. Even if food security is not on your radar, as it is mine, having the freedom of just a little more self-reliance is powerfully reassuring.

So, there you have it. That was my quick definition of Lactic Acid Fermentation and my reasons why I am a big fan of learning more about it.  I plan on posting some articles on my adventures making these foods in the near future.  Stay tuned.

The Variety of Preserved Fruits and Vegetables

A well stocked pantry should include some of our own preserves!

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgotMgbzOiDaiFhpretlqKIGMIf9zuI25mKLnKQI-X9mJgAV8V8oQC6DSZyuHIrcBRhRi9oHbCf9eiks3PZ3MgaNsT1Pp5NumH2xgqJQpA0QmjD-rDCiYbbLmJQlDYw3Hw6L4IMSplH094/s1600/strawberry+preserves.jpg

My sister Katie sent me a book on preserving for Christmas.  It is a great book, and I will review it soon.  I have dabbled a bit with preserving in the past.  When I lived in Kentucky, I made some Black Cherry Jelly, Crabapple Jelly, and Blackberry Jam.  They were all great.  However, it has been some time since I made any preserves to, well, preserve.

In the last few years, I have often made a quick jam or jelly when I have just a few pieces of fruit from the market.  I'll make a tiny batch, maybe just enough for one sitting, on my stove and store it in a small glass cup covered in plastic wrap in the refrigerator.  Now after reading this book on preserving, I am excited about doing some more larger scale production again soon.

As I read, I noticed that there are a lot of terms used in preserving fruits.  Vegetables are often preserved in similar ways or even mixed with the fruits as well depending on the preparation.  Whatever the ingredient, there are specific terms and definitions for what is made.  I thought it would be interesting to actually figure out what they all were.

Following is a list of the most common types of preserves along with a quick definition of each.

Jam
Made with whole fruit (or vegetables), crushed or chopped, and sugar.  Typically made with just one fruit, but some say it may be made with two fruits, and any more would be called a Conserve.  Consistency should be thick but spreadable and do not hold the shape of the jar (contrast to jelly).

Conserve
There are two definitions:
First - Made like jams, but are mixed with two or more fruits (or vegetables).  Often dried fruits (often raisins) and nuts are added.  Nuts are typically added at the last five minutes of cooking.  Consistency should be as Jam.

Second -  A fruit jam made of fruit stewed in sugar.  Often the whole or roughly chopped fruit is layered with sugar and left for a day before cooking.  Usually the fruit(s) are processed with as little water as possible to set.

Jelly
Made by cooking fruit (or vegetable) juice with jelly and sugar.  Ideally, the juice should be processed in a way to maintain clarity (clear or translucent) in the final jelly.  Consistency should be thick enough to hold its shape on a spoon, but be soft enough to be spreadable.

Marmalade
Made similar to jelly, but with the addition of small fruit pieces and/or peel evenly suspended throughout the jelly.  Consistency should be as Jam.

Preserve
While all of these items listed on this page are "Preserves", some separately define a "Preserve".
Made similar to jam, but with whole fruit (or vegetables), that are not crushed or chopped, and sugar.  Consistency should be as Jam.

Fruit Spread
A jam or preserve with no added sugar.

Fruit Butter
Made by cooking fruit or fruit pulp with sugar.  Often spices are added.  The fruit butter is cooked low and slow until the butter is thick and spreadable.  Consistency should be thick enough to round up on a spoon.
Examples: Apple Butter

Relish
Made by cooking chopped fruits and/or vegetables in a sauce that often contains vinegar, sometimes with sugar as well.  The goal is a condiment that has discernible pieces of fruit and/or vegetable (i.e. not smooth like a sauce) with a strong flavor that will compliment or contrast the food with which it is being served.

Chutney
An Indian relish combining vegetables and/or fruit and herbs, with classic "Indian" spices.  Often cooked for long periods of time.  Sometimes with a smoother consistency.
Examples: Mango Chutney, Mint Chutney, Coriander Chutney, Tamarind Chutney, Red Chili Chutney

Chow-Chow
A Southern American pickled relish made from a variety of vegetables.  Cabbage is often an ingredient and may be the origin of the name (chou is French for cabbage), although green tomatoes are also very common.  A very similar product made with more spices is the British piccalilli.

Confit
Pronounced "con-FEE", comes from the French confire, to preserve.  Typically made from meats, often poultry (Duck Confit is world famous) and pork, cooked and left in their own fat until the fat sets.  This old world style of preserving allows meats to be stored in a cool place for months with no refrigeration.  A less common variation is to make sweet confit with a fruit base and honey or sugar syrup preserving agent.  A savory confit calls for vegetables, like tomatoes and/or garlic with an oil, often olive oil, preserving agent.

Permaculture Tips: Use Your Car As a Dehydrator

Use Your Car As a Dehydrator
From Organic Gardening June/July 2011

Fresh figs being dehydrated in the window of a car!

http://thetanglednest.com/2009/08/drying-food-in-car/

Ginger Li from Homewood, Illinois explains how she dehydrates mint, basil, kale, Swiss chard, cilantro, dill, etc. by placing them in a single layer on a cookie sheet.  She placed the cookie sheets on the seats of her car, parked in the sun, with the windows just barely cracked to vent the humid air.

I read this as a Reader Comment in Organic Gardening, but I ended up finding many references to it on the internet.  Apparently, this is a growing trend.

Fantastic idea!  Beautiful way to utilize free energy!

A Permaculture Tip is an idea that is derived from observing and interacting with nature.  It is simple.  It is safe.  It is effective.  It helps build a sustainable system of agriculture and life in general.  If you have any Permaculture Tips you would like to share, please let me know.  I will post it here, give you the credit, and post a link to your blog or website if you have one.  Email me here: kitsteiner@hotmail.com

Dehydrate 2 Store - A Great Resource for Dehydration

Dehydrate2Store.com

 

I want to give a fantastic resource for learning how to dehydrate food.  Dehydrate2Store was started by a housewife who wanted to teach people about dehydrating.  It has now turned into a huge website and a great source of information.

Dehydrated Fruits and Veggies

http://www.bikudo.com/photo_stock/143808.jpg

For a long time dehydrated food has been sold to people who are interested in having food stored for a rainy day.  However, buying prepackaged dehydrated food is expensive!  This website will walk you through dehydrating your own food either from your own garden or from the grocery store.  There are great instructional videos and a bunch of recipes for using your dehydrated food.  Highly recommend this site.