A Mini Guild: Beans, Cucumbers, Bougainvillea, Stinging Nettle

Seedlings of Purple Podded Pole Bean (left) and Japanese Climbing Cucumber (right)

My boys (age 4 years and almost 5 years old) wanted to help me in the garden this weekend.  I decided to try a small experiment. I have a spot that gets a few hours of morning sun, and that is it. It is not an ideal location for typical garden vegetables, but I only have a couple of seedlings to lose if it doesn't work.

There was a mixed variety of plants growing under a rather old Bougainvillea: some perennial flowering bulbs that the landlord (or their gardener) planted years ago, a low-growing mat of wispy little-leaved plants, a few shoots of ferns, and a single, small Stinging Nettle. I cleared a spot, and my boys and I planted the seedlings. I left the bulbs and Stinging Nettle. I shredded the other unknown plant and used it as a mulch for the seedlings.

My thought is that if there is enough light there for these plants to survive, then we just created a mini-Permaculture Guild. The bean is a legume and is a nitrogen-fixing plant... it will provide nitrogen (not a lot, but some) for the fast growing cucumber. The cucumber and bean are both climbing plants. They can be trained to grow up the tall Bougainvillea, which will be putting out beautiful blooms later in the Summer close to when the cucumber and beans will be ready to harvest. The flowering bulbs are pretty and will provide a bit of ground cover until the seedlings are taller. The Stinging Nettle is small, but by cutting out the competing ground cover around it, I have given it room to grow. As it does, it will become a ground cover of its own with edible leaves. When the Stinging Nettle gets a bit too big, which they usually do in places you don't specifically want them, I will cut it back and use its leaves... young leaves to eat and old leaves as mulch. Since Stinging Nettle is a Dynamic Accumulator, its mulch is rich in nutrients, specifically potassium, calcium, sulfur, copper, iron, and sodium. 

Seedlings (left), Bougainvillea (back), Stinging Nettle (lower right)

This small patch of soil is now home to a small Permaculture Guild. Our yard is full of very pretty, but not very useful plants. However, this spot with a big, old Bougainvillea with its understory of flowering bulbs, when neglected for a few years so that a few "weeds" spring up, and with the addition of a few annual vegetables, now becomes a very productive spot that requires minimal maintenance. 

This is a tiny glimpse of home-scale Permaculture!

Dynamic Accumulators for Temperate Climates

Symphytum officinale, Common Comfrey, is one of the best dynamic accumulators.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ofF5B1eh_dM/SxPeCIYqJNI/AAAAAAAAITE/_azGECDUfi0/Symphytum%20officinallis.jpg

This is a term that I first came across in Dave Jacke’s book, Edible Forest Gardens.  In brief, it is the idea that certain plants (often deep-rooted ones) will draw up nutrients from the lower layers of the soil, and these nutrients will be deposited in the plants’ leaves.  When the leaves fall in autumn and winter and are broken down, those stored nutrients are then incorporated into the upper layers of the soil where other plants will benefit from their deposition.

This is a natural method of increasing soil fertility.  It is likely one of the ways that forest ecosystems continue to thrive and remain stable with minimal external inputs.

This is also a great Permaculture tool.  By observing nature, we can mimic nature, and we can have great results with minimal effort.  As I always say, Permaculture is about design!

We can sustainably and naturally increase our land's soil fertility by using dynamic accumulators.  It can be done with almost no work, other than planting or sowing seed, and allowing nature to do what it naturally does on its own.

We can expedite the process a bit, and increase our work a bit, by cutting back fast growing plants to encourage more frequent plant growth during the growing season.  For instance, chopping a bunch of mature leaves off fast growing Comfrey will provide high nutrient green mulch.  We can drop them where they fall or redistribute them to other locations that are low in nutrients.

There are a number of other ways to incorporate dynamic accumulators.  I'll be addressing these in an upcoming article.

The tiny flowers of Stellaria media, Common Chickweed, a dynamic accumulator that has a lot of Permaculture benefits... poultry food (hence the name), ground cover, and dynamic accumulator!

http://luirig.altervista.org/cpm/albums/bot-045/stellaria-media268.jpg

The science of dynamic accumulators is an area of botany with very little research to date.  We know it is true, but unfortunately not a lot of time has been spent studying the concept of dynamic mineral accumulation, so we only have research on a few plants.  Hopefully with time, we will be able to add substantially to this data.

Here is a list of well studied dynamic accumulators that can be used in a Temperate Climate.   The nutrients that they provide are abbreviated in bold:

1. Sugar Maple,  Acer saccarum K, Ca
2. Maples,  Acer spp.  K
3. Yarrow,  Achillea millefolium  K, P, Cu
4. Chives,  Allium schoenoprasum  K, Ca
5. Black Birch,  Betula lenta  K, P, Ca
6. Birches,  Betula spp.  P
7. Shagbark Hickory,  Carya ovate  K, P, Ca
8. Hickory, Pecans,  Carya spp.  K, Ca
9. German Chamomile,  Chamaemelum nobile  K, P, Ca
10. Chicory,  Cichorium intybus  K, Ca
11. Flowering Dogwood,  Cornus florida  K, P, Ca
12. Horesetails,  Equisetum spp.  Ca, Co, Fe, Mg
13. Beeches,  Fagus spp.  K
14. European Beech,  Fagus sylvatica  K, Ca
15. Strawberry,  Fragria spp.  Fe
16. Wintergreen,  Gaultheria procumbens  Mg
17. Licorices,  Glycyrrhiza spp.  P, N
18. Black Walnut,  Juglans nigra  K, P, Ca
19. Walnuts,  Juglans spp.  K, P
20. Lupines,  Lupinus spp.  P, N
21. Apples,  Malus spp.  K
22. Alfalfa,  Medicago sativa  Fe, N
23. Lemon Balm,  Melissa officinalis  P
24. Peppermint,  Mentha piperita  K, Mg
25. Watercress,  Nasturtium officinale  K, P, Ca, S, Fe, Mg, Na
26. Silverweed,  Potentilla arserina  K, Ca, Cu
27. White Oak,  Quercus alba  P
28. Black Locust,  Robinia pseudoacacia  K, Ca, N
29. Sorrels, Docks,  Rumex spp.  K, P, Ca, Fe, Na
30. Salad Burnet,  Sanguisorba minor  Fe
31. Savory,  Satureja spp.  P
32. Chickweed,  Stellaria media  K, P
33. Comfreys,  Symphytum spp.  K, P, Ca, Cu, Fe, Mg
34. Dandelion,  Taraxacum officinale  K, P, Ca, Cu, Fe
35. Basswood,  Tilia Americana  P, Ca, Mg
36. Linden (Lime in the UK),  Tilia spp.  P, Ca
37. Clovers,  Trifolium spp.  P, N
38. Stinging Nettle,  Urtica dioica  K, Ca, S, Cu, Fe, Na
39. Vetches,  Vicia spp.  K, P, N
40. Violets,  Viola spp.  P

Abbreviation Key

Ca = Calcium

Co = Cobalt

Cu = Copper

Fe = Iron

K = Potassium
Mg = Magnesium
N = Nitrogen (in this case, these plants are nitrogen fixers)

Na = Sodium

P = Phosphorus
S = Sulfur

Plants: Nitrogen Fixers for Temperate Climate Permaculture Forest Gardens

Nitrogen is a vital nutrient for plants and plant growth.  Nitrogen fixing plants are also a vital component of rebuilding soil fertility with permaculture.  These plants comprise a large part of the forest garden.


As a nitrogen fixing plant grows, it creates a symbiotic relationship with bacteria.  It is an involved process, but the bottom line is that excess nitrogen is built up in the plants tissues.  When leaves fall, roots die, or gardeners prune back leaves (and drop them on the ground to decompose) the excess nitrogen is released back into the soil.  This excess nitrogen is picked up by the other plants in the area and utilized for their own growth.


When forest gardening and rebuilding soil fertility, we can surround our one producer plant (a fruit or nut tree, bush, or vine) with many nitrogen fixing plants.  As our producer grows, we can chop leaves from the nitrogen fixing plants and mulch our producer.  This feeds our producer from the top.  Also, as we cut leaves, some of the nitrogen fixing plant's roots die back as well.  This fertilizes from underground.  And all that extra organic matter continues to build the water retaining capabilities of the soil, provides food for worms, and hiding places for beneficial insects, etc.  There are just so many benefits from this.


Here is a more in-depth discussion from Wikipedia about the process:

"Nitrogen fixation is the natural process, either biological or abiotic, by which nitrogen (N2) in the atmosphere is converted into ammonia (NH3). This process is essential for life because fixed nitrogen is required to biosynthesize the basic building blocks of life, e.g., nucleotides for DNA and RNA and amino acids for proteins. Nitrogen fixation also refers to other biological conversions of nitrogen, such as its conversion to nitrogen dioxide."  (click here for the full aricle if you are really interested)

Following is a list of plants that I assembled and will continue to work on as I obtain more information.  All are nitrogen fixers that are compatible with temperate climate permaculture.  Plants are listed alphabetically by scientific name.  There are a few plants with the same common name.  Sometimes I came across multiple listings for Zones for an specific plant.  I tried to list the most common and/or reliable zone information.  Also, if only one zone is listed, then the plants are hardy to that USDA Zone.

Nitrogen Fixing Plants for Temperate Climate Permaculture

TALL TREES for Temperate Climate Permaculture
(50 feet or taller)

1. Gray Alder, Alnus incana, Zone 2-6
2. Black Locust,  Robnia pseudoacacia, Zone 3b
3. Japanese Pagoda Tree, Sophora japonica, Zone 4-8

SMALL TREES AND MEDIUM-LARGE SHRUBS for Temperate Climate Permaculture
(3-50 feet tall)

1. Prarie Acacia, Acacia angustissima, Zone 7-10
2. Silk Tree or Mimosa, Albizzia julibrisin, Zone 6
3. Alder,Italian, Alnus cordata, Zone 6
4. Alder, Speckled, Alnus rugosa, Zone 2-6
5. Alder, Smooth, Alnus serrulata, Zone 5-8
6. False Indigo, Amorpha fruticosa, Zone 3
7. Siberian Pea Shrub, Caragana arborescens, Zone 2-7
8. Russian Pea Shrub, Caragana frutex, Zone 2-7
9. Pygmy Pea Shrub, Caragana pygmaea, Zone 3-7
10. Mountain Mahogany, Cercocarpus montanus, Zone 6
11. Bladder Senna, Colutea arborescens, Zone 5-7
12. Russian Olive, Elaeagnus angustifolia, Zone 2
13. Silverberry, Elaeagnus commutata, Zone 2-6
14. Goumi, Elaeagnus multiflora, Zone 5-8
15. Autumn Olive, Elaeagnus umbellata, Zone 3
16. Elaeagnus, Elaeagnus x ebbingei, Zone 6
17. Kentucky Coffee Tree, Gymnocladus dioica, Zone 4
18. Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides, Zone 3-7
19. Golden-chain Tree, Laburnum anagyroides, Zone 5
20. Bush Clover, Lespedeza bicolor, Zone 4-7
21. Bush Clover, Lespedza thunbergii, Zone 5
22. Amur Maackia, Maackia amurensis, Zone 3-7
23. Southern Bayberry, Myrica cerifera, Zone 6b-9
24. Northern Bayberry, Myrica pensylvanica, Zone 2-7
25. Honeypod Mesquite, Prosopis glandulosa, Zone 7
26. Bristly Locust, Robina hispida, Zone 4-8
27. Clammy Locust, Robina viscosa, Zone 5-8
28. Buffaloberry, Shepherdia argentea, Zone 2
29. Canadian Buffaloberry, Shepherdia canadensis, Zone 2
30. Spanish Broom, Spartium junceum, Zone 8

HERBACEOUS PLANTS AND SMALL SHRUBS for Temperate Climate Permaculture
(Typically under 3 feet)

1. Dwarf Prarie Acacia, Acacia angustissima hirta, Zone 7-10
2. Leadplant, Amorpha canescens, Zone 3
3. Fragrant False Indigo, Amorpha nana, Zone 3-6
4. Canadian Milkvetch, Astragalus canadensis, Zone 3-8
5. Groundplum Milkvetch, Astragalus crassicarpus, Zone 3-8
6. Milkvetch, Astragalus glycyphyllos, Zone 4-8
7. Huang-Qi, Astragalus membranaceous, Zone 5
8. Painted milkvetch, Astragalus pictus-filifolius, Zone 5
9. Wild Blue Indigo, Baptisia australis, Zone 4-8
10. Wild Yellow Indigo, Baptisia tinctoria, Zone 4-9
11. New Jersey Tea, Ceanothus americanus, Zone 3b
12. Mahala Mat, Ceanothus prostatus, Zone 7-10
13. Sweetfern, Comptonia peregrina, Zone 2-6
14. Prostate Broom, Cytisus decumbens, Zone 6-8
15. Showy Tick Trefoil, Desmodium canadense, Zone 3-6
16. Pointed-Leaved Tick Trefoil, Desmodium glutinosum, Zone 3-9
17. Mountain Avens, Dryas octopetala, Zone 2-4
18. Silky-Leaf Woodowaxen, Genista pilosa, Zone 6-8
19. Trailing Silky-Leaf Woodwaxen, Genista pilosa procumbens, Zone 6-8
20. Arrow Broom, Genista sagittalis, Zone 3-8
21. Dryer's Greenwood, Genista tinctoria, Zone 4-7
22. American Licorice, Glycyrrhiza lepidota, Zone 3-8
23. European Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Zone 6/7
24. Chinese Licorice, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Zone 5-9
25. Sweet Vetch, Hedysarum boreale, Zone 3
26. Sea Buckthorn "Dorana Dwarf", Hippophae rhamnoides cv., Zone 3-7
27. Chinese Indigo, Indigofera decora, Zone 5
28. Round-Headed Bush Clover, Lespedeza capitata, Zone 4-8
29. Prostate Bird's-Foot Trefoil 'Plena', Lotus corniculatus cv., Zone 5
30. Lupine, Lupinus species., Zone 3-9
31. Alfalfa, Medicago sativa, Zone 3
32. Sweet Gale, Myrica gale, Zone 1-6
33. Breadroot (Prarie Turnip), Psoralea esculenta, Zone 3-7
34. Two-Flowered Pencil Flower, Stylosanthes biflora, Zone 5
35. Carolina Bush Pea, Thermopsis villosa, Zone 5-8
36. Red Clover, Trifolium pratense, Zone 3
37. White Clover, Trifolium repens, Zone 4

VINES AND CLIMBERS for Temperate Climate Permaculture

1. Hog Peanut, Amphicarpeaea bracteata, Zone 3-9
2. Groundnut, Apios americana, Zone 3
3. Fortune's Groundnut, Apios fortunei, Zone ?
4. Price's Groundnut, Apios priceana, Zone 6
5. Butterfly Pea, Clitoria mariana, Zone 6-9
6. Beach Pea, Lathyrus japonicus maritima, Zone 3b-7
7. Perenial (Everlasting) Pea, Lathyrus latifolius, Zone 4-9
8. Bitter Vetch, Lathyrus linifolius var. montanus, Zone 6b
9. Earth-Nut Pea, Lathyrus tuberosus, Zone 6b
10. Scarlet Runner Bean, Phaseolus coccineus, Zone 9 or Annual plant
11. Wild Bean, Phaseolus polystachios, Zone 6-10
12. Pea, Pisum sativum, Annual plant
13. Wild Bean, Stophostyles umbellata, Zone 6-9
14. American Vetch, Vicia americana, Zone 3-7
15. Wood Vetch, Vicia caroliniana, Zone 3-9
16. Tufted Vetch, Vicia cracca, Zone 6
17. Japanese Wisteria, Wisteria floribunda, Zone 4-9
18. American Wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, Zone 5
19. Kentucky Wisteria, Wisteria macrostachya, Zone 5-9

Most information for this page from Gaia's Garden and Edible Forest Gardens.