Showing posts with label Ground Covers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ground Covers. Show all posts

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Permaculture Plants: Aronia or Chokeberry

Aronia, or Chokeberry, is a great shrub for the Forest Garden
Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)

Common Name: Aronia, Chokeberry
Scientific Name: Aronia species
Family: Rosaceae (the Rose family)

Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)

Species: 
  • Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) - Large Shrub, Red Fruit
  • Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) - Small to Medium-sized Shrub, Dark Purple-Black Fruit
  • Purple Chokeberry (Aronia prunifolia) - natural hybrid of Red and Black Chokeberry, but is now likely its own species

Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)

Description:
The North American shrub known as Chokeberry had an extreme makeover once its nutritional profile was discovered. High in vitamin C and antioxidants, it is being touted as the healthiest fruit in the world. This new "superfood" was re-branded as Aronia (its scientific name), and it is now a common addition to juices and other health snacks. Typically a bit too astringent to eat raw, hence the original name, the fruit can easily be used in jams and jellies and even wines. It can also be made into syrup and tea. In the Forest Garden, it will attract beneficial insects, can withstand periods of drought, can be used as a windbreak and fruit-bearing hedge, and is strikingly beautiful most of the year.

Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) by Mary Walcott, 1925

History:
The Aronia species are native to eastern North America. They have likely been used for thousands of years by natives for food and medicine. They have been used for some time as ornamentals, but it is only recently that they have become significantly more popular once they gained "health food" status.

Trivia:
  • The common name "Chokeberry" was given because, when raw, the fruit is typically too astringent (drying or mouth puckering). Many birds will avoid this berry until all other fruit sources are gone. This will often leave the fruit on the plants through mid-Winter.
  • The Aronia (aka ChokeBERRY) should not be confused with Prunus virginiana, the ChokeCHERRY, although fruits from both similar-looking plants are edible.
  • The fruit of Aronia is very high in vitamin C and antioxidants (specifically anthocyanins found in the Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa).
  • A mature plant can have up to 40 canes per shrub.

Apple and Chokeberry Wine

Chokeberry Jam

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Edible fruit - usually cooked. Some improved varieties are mild enough to be eaten raw (see Trivia above).
  • Preserved Fruit - jams, jellies, preserves, etc. (naturally high in pectin). Can also be dried and used in teas and pemmican.
  • Fruit Juice - if mixed in a 1:1 ratio with another juice that is naturally sweet (like apple juice), then no other sweetener is needed
  • Juice can be reduced with heat to make syrup.
  • Primary or adjunct flavor in wines, but likely could be used in beers and liquors.
  • Tea Plant (dried fruits are used)
  • Fruit Leather

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
  • Wildlife food plant, especially birds, in Winter
  • Wildlife shelter plant for small mammals and birds
  • Groundcover plant - Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), plant 3-4 feet (1 meter) apart
  • Ornamental Garden Plant
  • Drought-Resistant Plant - can withstand low water periods, but not extremely prolonged dry periods.
  • Windbreak species
  • Living Fence species

Yield: This varies dramatically on age, variety, and growing conditions, but a mature plant can average 22 lbs (10 kg) per year. Reports of almost 40 lbs (17 kg) per bush have been reported.
Harvesting: Autumn. Only harvest when fully ripe. Taste is better after a frost. A berry comb will greatly assist harvesting the small fruits.
Storage: Best when used fresh. Can be stored in a cool place (like a refrigerator) for up to two weeks.

Aronia can be used as a hedge or windbreak...
Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)

...and it is beautiful in the Autumn...
Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)

...and Winter.
Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone:
  • Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) - Zone 4-9
  • Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) - Zone 3-8
  • Purple Chokeberry (Aronia prunifolia) - Zone 4-7

AHS Heat Zone:
  • Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) - Zone 8-4
  • Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) - Zone 8-1
  • Purple Chokeberry (Aronia prunifolia) - Zone 8-1 

Chill Requirement: Likely, but no tested information is available; however, some studious amateurs suggest 800-1,000 chilling hours/units are needed for good flowering.

Plant Type: Shrub
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Shrub Layer, Groundcover Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Multiple varieties available

Pollination: Self-Pollinating. Pollinated by insects.
Flowering: Spring-Summer (May-June)

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 2-3 years
Years of Useful Life: No good information available, but this plant freely suckers. As one plant is starting to decline, a suckering plant can be established to take the original plant's place in the garden and in production.

Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)


PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 
  • Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) - 6-13 feet (1.8-4 meters) tall and 3-9 feet (0.9-3 meters) wide
  • Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) - 1.5-6 feet (0.4-1.8 meters) tall and 6-10 feet (1.8-3 meters) wide
  • Purple Chokeberry (Aronia prunifolia) - 6-9 feet (1.8-3 meters) tall and 3-8 feet (0.9-2.5 meters) wide

Roots: Fibrous with the ability to sucker (send up shoots from underground roots)

Growth Rate: 
  • Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) - Slow
  • Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) - Slow to Fast (depending on environmental factors)


These shrubs can be quite prolific!


GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Full to partial sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade, but fruit production is lower
Moisture: Can grow in wet to dry soils
pH: prefers acidic to neutral soil (5.1 - 6.5), but can grow in a wide range (5.0-8.5)

Special Considerations for Growing: 
  • Consider growing an improved variety for more or larger fruits.
  • Aronia does not tolerate juglone (a natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Consider using another plant as a buffer between your walnuts and Aronias.

Propagation: 
Usually from seed. Needs 12-13 weeks cold stratification for germination. Can be propagated from cuttings of half-ripe wood in Summer (cut one half inch below a node). Can divide suckers in late Autumn and Winter when the plant is dormant.

Maintenance:
Minimal, but will need to cut back suckers if not wanted. Also, thinning older canes once every few years will keep the plants more productive.

Concerns:
Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) can sucker a bit more aggressively than the Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa); however, these are rarely invasive.

Monday, March 11, 2013

Permaculture Plants: Sorrel


A patch of wild Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa

Common Name: Sorrel
Scientific Name: Rumex species
Family: Polygonaceae (the Buckwheat or Smartweed family)

It is easy to see why Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) is also called Red Sorrel

Common Species:
  • French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa
  • Sheep's, Red, or Field Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)
  • Monk's Rhubarb (Rumex alpinus)
  • Herb Patience (Rumex patientia)
  • Buckler-Leaved or French Sorrel (Rumex scutatus)


Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) has a more spade-shaped leaf.

Description:
Docks and Sorrels are closely related species belonging to the Rumex genus. Most species are considered "weeds", but the ones listed here have a fantastically refreshing and bright flavor - think lemony lettuce! The flowers, seeds, and even roots are edible as well. They attract beneficial insects, mine for minerals in the soil, and are drought-tolerant to name but a few of their traits. An easy to maintain addition in the Forest Garden.

Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa

Sheep, Red, or Field Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

History:
There are over 200 species in the Rumex genus. Where these plants were not native, they were introduced on purpose or on accident, and they can now be found the world over. Only a few species of Sorrel have had much interest by plant breeders, so the wild plants are what we have.

Trivia:
  • "Sorrel" is also used to describe parts or tea from the Hibiscus which is popular around the Equator, but has no relation to the Rumex species
  • Sorrel is used fresh and cooked around the world in traditional cuisine most commonly in Europe, but also Africa and Asia
  • Sheep Sorrel was used to revegetate overgrazed fields in Australia

Sorrel is best picked when leaves are young and tender.

Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - here's a recipe for soup:

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Edible Leaves - unique fruity, sour (lemony) taste. Can be used raw (salads, on sandwiches, etc.) or cooked like spinach (soups, sauces, stews, pastries, spanakopita, quiches, etc.). The leaves may even be boiled to impart a lemony flavor to the water which is cooled and sweetened and used like lemonade.
  • Edible Flowers - typically used as a garnish for salads, but may be cooked as well.
  • Edible Roots - Some species have a large taproot which can be dried, ground, and used as a flour adjunct
  • Edible Seeds - May be eaten raw or cooked. May be dried, ground, and used as a flour adjunct

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect nectar plant
  • Dynamic Accumulator Plant - Excellent! (Potassium, Phosphorus, Calcium, Iron, Sodium)
  • Groundcover Plant
  • Pioneer Species - the deep roots can help break up hardened soils
  • Drought Tolerant Species
  • Juice from the leaves can be used to curdle milk
  • Juice from the leaves can be used to clean stains in clothing
  • Dye Plant - roots, leaves, and stems
  • Likely a decent feed plant for most domestic animals - chickens will eat the seeds (let them harvest themselves!) and greens sparingly

Harvesting: Spring harvest for leaves. Pick when young as older leaves are more fibrous.
Storage: Used fresh most commonly, but the leaves can be dried and used later.

Monk's Rhubarb is tolerant of cold climates, like alpine regions, hence its scientific name.
(Rumex alpinus

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone:
  • French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - Zone 3-9
  • Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) - Zone 1-9 
  • Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) - Zone 3-9

AHS Heat Zone
  • French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - Zone 6-1 
  • Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella): 10-1 
  • Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) - Zone 6-1

Chill Requirement: No reliable information can be found

Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous (some varieties are evergreen)
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer, Groundcover Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species available. Some few have been improved.

Pollination: May be Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile or Dioecious (male and female plants) depending on the species. Pollinated by wind.
Flowering: May-September

Life Span: No reliable information can be found, but as these plants reseed so easily, it is almost a moot question.

Sorrel's have small flowers that attract small, beneficial insects.
Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

While many species have taproots, all species have deep-growing roots.
Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 
  • French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - 12-36 inches tall and 12 inches wide
  • Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) - 6 inches tall and indefinitely wide
  • Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) - 12 inches tall and 12-24 inches wide

Roots: Deep and fibrous, some species have a taproot; Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) has stolons (stems called "runners" that grow along the ground and produce roots, and then new plants)
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast

While not its main use, Sorrels can produce a decent amount of seed.
Herb Patience (Rumex patientia)

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Most species tolerate light shade, although some can tolerate moderate shade
Moisture: Dry to medium-moisture soils
pH: can tolerate a very wide range of soils (3.5-8.5)

Special Considerations for Growing: None

Propagation: 
Typically, and easily, by seed - direct sow in Spring. Can transplant "wild" specimens. Can divide plants in Spring.

Maintenance:
None. Flowering will stop new leaf growth, so you can encourage young leaf growth by cutting off the flowering stem.

Concerns:
  • Poisonous - Leaves and contain oxalic acid. Large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic. When cooked, much of the oxalic acid is reduced.
  • Running types can be expansive - they can grow all over the place.
  • Many varieties of Sorrel reseed very easily, so some consider them a bit invasive... I see this as a great trait!


Monday, February 25, 2013

Permaculture Plants: Salal or Shallon

Salal is an evergreen shrub that fruits in shade! Awesome!

Common Name: Salal, Shallon
Scientific Name: Gaultheria shallon
Family: Ericaceae (the Heath or Heather family)

The small berries have a sweet, unique flavor that some say tastes like blueberries.

Description:
Salal is an evergreen understory shrub native to the West coast of North America. It has sweet, great-tasting berries that are reminiscent of blueberries. It is one of the few plants that fruit well in shade. It also attracts beneficial insects, feeds wildlife, can be used as a low windbreak or ground cover, and once established, it can tolerate drought. A great understory plant for the Forest Garden.

Gaultheria shallon

History:
Salal is a common understory plant, typically growing under conifers, and is native the the West coast of North America. It has been introduced in the UK where it has readily grown in more acidic environments. Some in Europe consider it a mildly invasive weed.

Trivia:
  • The name "salal" comes from the Chinnot Jargon sallal.
  • The name "shallon" come from the Native American (unsure which people group) shellwell.

Salal Preserves!

A couple more links to preserving salal berries:

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Fresh Eating - fruit is like small blueberries
  • Baking - pies, tarts, turnovers, etc.  Use like blueberries or currants
  • Cooking - can be used in savory dishes
  • Preserves, jams, jellies, etc. The seeds are tiny (like strawberry seeds), so there is no need to strain them out
  • Dried fruit
  • Fruit Leather
  • Flavoring component to beers, wines, liquers, etc.

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
  • Wildlife food plant
  • Wildlife shelter plant
  • Groundcover plant - perfect for shady locations. Space about 3 feet (0.9 meters) apart.
  • Windbreak Shrub (very dense plant)
  • Hedge plant
  • Drought tolerant plant
  • Tea plant - from dried leaves
  • Edible leaves - young leaves are reportedly edible, but I have yet to try this
  • Salal is used in floral arrangements
  • Dye plant - fruit and leaves
  • Medicinal Uses

Yield: no reliable information can be found
Harvesting: Summer (July - August). Pick when the berries get dark and soft.
Storage: Like blueberries, will store fresh for about a week.

The dainty flowers of a blooming Salal.

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 6-8
AHS Heat Zone: 8-6
Chill Requirement: 50-450 hours/units depending on the species and variety

Plant Type: Small to medium-sized Shrub
Leaf Type: Evergreen
Forest Garden Use: Shrub Layer, Groundcover Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: This plant has not been developed much

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile. Pollinated by insects.
Flowering: April - June

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 2-3 years
Years of Useful Life: No good information available, but since this plant produces runners so easily, an individual plant's lifespan is not that important. An established community of Salal will live almost indefinitely.

The small berries have soft hairs on them - reminiscent of raspberries.

Salal berries will open as they mature.

Fully mature berries. Fruits are usually picked for eating before this stage.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 1-6 feet (0.3-1.8 meters) tall and indefinitely wide
Roots: Fibrous with stolons (aka "runners" - stems right at ground level that form roots)
Growth Rate: Medium

Salal makes a great groundcover for deep shade.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Full sun to part shade
Shade: Tolerates deep shade
Moisture: Medium moisture soils
pH: prefers an acidic to fairly neutral soil (5.5-6.5), but can tolerate very acidic soils

Special Considerations for Growing: 
Salal has a combination of traits that let it fill a unique niche in the Forest Garden. A difficult spot to fill is often under conifers, but the acidic soil and shade is where Salal will thrive.

Propagation: Typically by seed - requires 4-17 weeks cold stratification (depending on the source of information). Can be propagated by cuttings or more commonly by splitting the new plants that develop from the runners.

Maintenance:
Takes a little care to get young plants established as they are more frost susceptible, but once established, the only maintenance will be cutting back the runners from where you do not want them to grow. A mature patch of plants will try to expand at a rate of about 1 foot (30 cm) per year. This is easy to maintain and keep in bounds.

Concerns:
None.


Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Permaculture Plants: Stinging Nettle


The Stinging Nettle - a beautiful plant with an attitude!
This photo is from my yard

Common Name: Stinging Nettle
Scientific Name: Urtica dioica
Family: Urticaceae (the Nettle family)

Perfect young shoot for harvesting

Description:
A harbinger of Spring, the Stinging Nettle has long been used as a food and medicinal plant. Yes, they do sting, but it is not that bad. I accidentally discovered them in my garden about a week ago when planting some garlic bulbs (see my prior article about using sprouted garlic). I was pushing some new growth back to clear a small patch of soil when I felt a sharp pain on the back of my hand. It felt like a fire ant sting, which I have had plenty of experience with growing up in south Florida. But there was no insect on my hand. I looked around and found a tiny Stinging Nettle plant a few inches tall. This meant two things... First, I needed to get some gloves. Second, it was foraging time!

I did a quick search around my neighborhood and discovered a large patch in my neighbor's yard. I harvested a large bag full and took them home. My neighbor was happy to have me cut some of his "weeds" back. He was a bit skeptical about their being edible. I explained that the "sting" is neutralized within about 30 seconds when exposed to heat. I also showed him how you can even eat them raw, if done the right way, but he wasn't about to try it. I took my new picked treasure home and made some Stinging Nettle and Pork Belly soup with a homemade duck stock... delicious! That same neighbor came over and tentatively tasted the soup, then proceeded to devour it, raving about how good it was. Another convert!

Another photo from my yard - you can just barely see the hairs on the leaf

Now, most people would not plant these on purpose, but they often will pop up in yards, typically in rich, moist soils. If you have a larger property, you can "cultivate" them in an out of the way corner. If you have some real land, then you likely already have them growing somewhere. It is just a matter of locating them. This is when I would consider Nature Tending.

Stinging Nettle can be eaten, used for tea, used medicinally, and used to make a fiber similar to linen. They are also attractors of beneficial insects. The plants accumulate large amounts of nutrients, and if composted can be a valuable fertilizer to your garden. These are resilient and useful plants that have a poor disposition, but are worth the trouble in my opinion.

Urtica dioica

History:
Native to the Northern Hemisphere, Stinging Nettle has long been used for medicine and food. It has been introduced around the world, and is now seen more as a weed than a beneficial plant.

A real close up view of the stinging hairs (large) and non-stinging hairs (small)

Trivia:

  • The sting from Stinging Nettles comes from their stinging hairs, called trichomes. Stinging Nettles are covered with hairs, but not many are actually the stinging hairs. These stinging hairs are on the underside of the leaves and on the stems. When touched, the tip of the hair is displaced, and what is left resembles a hypodermic needle. This needle will inject chemicals that cause itching, irritation, and pain.
  • Stinging Nettles inject histamine, acetylcholine, serotonin, morodin, leukotrienes, and formic acid (formic acid give fire ants their "fire").
  • Stinging Nettle leaves can be eaten raw... just hold the leaf only on the top side, fold it over on itself to cover the stinging hairs on the underside of the leaf, roll it up, squeeze it a bit to make sure the stinging hairs are all crushed, then take a bite. Yes, I have done this. No, I did not get stung. Yes, it tastes good!
  • Exposing Stinging Nettle to heat for about 30 seconds (like boiling water for tea or soup) neutralizes the sting, as does drying the leaves
  • There are many species in the genus Urtica that are likely all edible, but check with local experts before you start foraging for other species.


Stinging Nettle Soup is delicious!
Here is a link to one recipe... I'll share mine soon.

Stinging Nettle leaves dry very well... and the sting is gone!


USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

  • Edible Leaves - used fresh and cooked briefly; leaves dry well and can be stored for later use
  • Tea Plant - fresh or dried leaves are used


Secondary Uses:

  • Dynamic Accumulator (Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Copper, Iron, and Sodium) - excellent addition to compost
  • Manure Tea Plant - high in Nitrogen
  • Lacewings prefer to lay eggs on Stinging Nettle leaves
  • Ladybugs prefer Stinging Nettle foliage
  • Fiber Plant - obtained from the stems. Makes a strong fiber similar to flax which can be used to make cloth similar to linen. The fiber can also be used to make paper
  • The seeds can be pressed to produce an oil that can be used in lamps
  • Dye (green) from the leaves and stems
  • Extensive medicinal use
  • Juice from the leaves have been used for hundreds of years to curdle milk for cheese making if rennet is not available
  • Drinks can be made from the young shoots - non-alcoholic drinks similar to ginger-beer and alcoholic drinks like beer and wine


Harvesting: Spring. Leaves are best when the plant is less than 3 feet tall, before flowering has occurred. Ideal is when they are under a foot tall. Use gloves to avoid the stinging hairs on the underside of the leaves and stems.
Storage: Can be dried and used as needed. Many people will just keep the fresh leaves in a brown paper bag, shaking occasionally, until dried.

An out of the way corner of a larger property is great for Stinging Nettle

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-8
AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information available.
Chill Requirement: No reliable information available.

Plant Type: Herbaceous Perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous, but can be "evergreen" in areas with mild winters
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer, Ground Cover Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many subspecies and varieties, but no significant development

Pollination: Plants are dioecious, meaning they have either male or female flowers (hence the scientific name: dioica). Both male and female plants (typically a 1:8 ratio) are needed to produce seeds.
Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
No reliable information available, but not really needed. These plants spread so easily with runners and seed, that as soon as one plant dies, another will take its place.

The spreading nature of the Stinging Nettle makes it a pretty good ground cover...
...but also tricky to eradicate.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 1-6.5 feet (30-200 centimeters) tall, usually about 3 feet (100 cm) tall, and indefinitely wide
Roots: Fibrous roots which have stolons (aka "runners" - stems right at ground level that form roots) and rhizomes (roots that spread along ground level), both of which can form new plants
Growth Rate: Fast

The flowers of the Stinging Nettle are tiny, but develop many seeds.

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Shade: Tolerates medium shade
Moisture: Medium, but can tolerate fairly wet soils
pH: tolerates a fairly wide range of soils (5.5 - 7.5)

Special Considerations for Growing:
Tolerates juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.

Propagation: Few people propagate this plant on purpose, but transplanting young plants from stolons or rhizomes is easy. Seeds easily - just rub the mature seed heads, releasing the seeds, over where you want the Stinging Nettle to grow.

Maintenance:
None required.
To control growth and spread try these methods, and always protect your hands and arms:

  • Cut off the flowering heads to reduce seed production - typically done in late Summer when the plants are tall. A scythe is a great tool for this job.
  • At least once a season, and maybe a few times, pull up any plant that is growing outside of where you want the Stinging Nettles to grow. 


Concerns:

  • Stinging Nettle can spread fast through runners and easily through seed.
  • Stinging Nettle can... well, sting! Some people have a very small reaction, and others will have a more significant local reaction.
  • Consuming too much nettle and especially from older leaves can cause a laxative effect - which is one of the medicinal uses
  • Older leaves contain cystoliths which can irritate the kidneys - another reason to use just the tender, young leaves which taste better anyway!



Thursday, January 31, 2013

Permaculture Plants: Juniper

Junipers are a unique addition to a Forest Garden 
(Juniperus communis)

Common Name: Juniper
Scientific Name: Juniperus species
Family: Cupressaceae (the Cypress family)

Most people associate Junipers with arid climates...
but as long as the soil is well-drained, they can grow in a wide variety of locations.
(Juniperus occidentalis) 

Common Species:
  • Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) - large shrub to small tree
  • Alligator Juniper (Juniperus deppeana) - small to medium-sized tree
  • Syrian Juniper (Juniperus drupacea) - medium-sized tree
  • Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) - groundcover
  • One-Seed Juniper (Juniperus monosperma) - medium-sized tree
  • Western Juniper (Juniperus occidentalis) - medium-sized tree
  • Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) - small to medium-sized tree
  • Eastern Juniper or Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) - small to medium-sized tree

Junipers are such common landscape plants, we can easily forget they have other uses.

Description:
The Junipers are a group of evergreen plants, from small shrubs to tall trees, well known for their berries which are eaten fresh, used as a spice, and are famously used to give gin its characteristic flavor. Junipers are used around the world for landscaping, and J. virginiana (a.k.a. "red cedar") is used extensively in wood working and is notable for its aroma. These plants can be hedges, windbreaks, groundcovers, and sources for wood, to name but a few of their uses. A versatile plant for the Forest Garden.

Common Juniper (Juniperus communis)

History:
The Junipers are a genus of plants containing between 50-70 species. Native to the northern hemisphere, they are likely the most widespread evergreen plant in the world. Prehistoric people used these shrubs and trees for wood, fuel, and food, and their popularity has never ceased.

Trivia:
  • Juniper "berries" are actually modified cones... yes, like the typical pine cones.
  • Most berries are blue when ripe, but some species produce red to orange berries.
  • Juniper berries are the primary flavoring in gin. The name "gin" comes from the Dutch word for juniper, geniver.
  • Most Junipers have two types of leaves: needle-like on young or new growth, and scaled leaves on older growth.
  • Most Juniper berries take about 18 months to ripen.

Eastern Juniper or Eastern Redcedar has beautiful, highly aromatic wood.
Here is a great article on sawmilling cedar (Juniperus virginiana

Gin gets its distinctive flavor and aroma from Juniper.

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:
  • Berries (modified cones) - Most species not mentioned here (and also the fruit of the Common Juniper, J. communis) have fruits which are too astringent and bitter to eat raw. However, the fruits of the species listed here, especially J. drupacea, can be eaten fresh. The berries are most common dried and then crushed, and are considered a highly regarded spice. A little goes a long way. Used as a flavoring in many vegetable and meat dishes. Also used as a flavoring agent in some beers and, most famously, gin.
  • New Leaf Shoots - used as flavoring and used for tea
  • Seeds - roasted seeds have been used as a coffee substitute (J. communis, J. scopulorum)

Secondary Uses:
  • General insect pollen plant
  • Wildlife food
  • Windbreak
  • Pioneer Species - this is a slow growing species, so it is not ideal for land that we desire to turn into a Forest Garden right away; however, it can be used on the outskirts of these areas that are more "wild", i.e. Zones 3 and 4. If used in a Forest Garden, take into consideration the time it will take to grow.
  • Drought Tolerant Plant
  • Hedge Plant
  • Groundcover - really just the Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)
  • Some species have highly aromatic woods (especially Eastern Juniper/Redcedar)
  • Larger species produce great wood for fence posts (especially Eastern Juniper/Redcedar)
  • Wood may also be used for lumber, tools, crafts, firewood, and traditional bows

Yield: 20-25 lbs (9-11 kg)
Harvesting: Autumn (October-November). Berries are picked when they are at about 18 months if the plant is in its native range, some will be ripe at 12 months, but some can take up to 3 years to mature. Berries are ripe when they darken.
Storage: Use fresh berries right away. Dried berries can last for years, but lose potency the longer they are in storage.

Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) makes a stunning groundcover in the right setting.

Junipers are hardy, rugged plants.
(Juniperus communis)

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone:
  • Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) - Zone 2
  • Alligator Juniper (Juniperus deppeana) - Zone 8
  • Syrian Juniper (Juniperus drupacea) - Zone 7
  • Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) - Zone 4
  • One-Seed Juniper (Juniperus monosperma) - Zone 4
  • Western Juniper (Juniperus occidentalis) - Zone 5
  • Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) - Zone 3
  • Eastern Juniper or Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) - Zone 4

AHS Heat Zone:
  • Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) - Zone 6-1
  • Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) - Zone 9-1
  • Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) - Zone 7-1
  • Eastern Juniper or Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) - Zone 9-1

Chill Requirement: no reliable information can be found

Plant Type: Medium to large-sized Shrubs; Small to medium-sized Trees
Leaf Type: Evergreen
Forest Garden Use: Canopy Layer, Sub-Canopy (Understory) Layer, Shrub Layer, Groundcover
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species, hybrids, and varieties available.

Pollination: Plant is dioecious (has male and female plants). Typically one male for up to eight females are used. Pollinated by the wind.
Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 2-3 years
Years of Useful Life: Potential to live over 800 years!

Unripe berries on Eastern Juniper or Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana)

An awful application, but useful example, of a solid Juniper hedge.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: these are average or common sizes; many specimens can get significantly taller under ideal conditions and with advanced age
  • Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) - 30 feet (9 meters) tall and 13 feet (4 meters) wide
  • Alligator Juniper (Juniperus deppeana) - 60 feet (18 meters) tall
  • Syrian Juniper (Juniperus drupacea) - 50 feet (15 meters) tall and 6 feet (2 meters) wide
  • Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) - 3 feet (1 meter) tall and 9 feet (3 meters) wide
  • One-Seed Juniper (Juniperus monosperma) - 60 feet (18 meters) tall
  • Western Juniper (Juniperus occidentalis) - 60 feet (18 meters) tall
  • Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) - 32 feet (10 meters) tall and 13 feet (4 meters) wide
  • Eastern Juniper or Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana): typically 16-66 feet (5-20 meters) tall and 26 feet (8 meters) wide, but can get to 90 feet (27 meters) tall

Roots: Juniperus species can grow deep root systems, often with a tap root. If a deep root system does develop, it will develop a shallower lateral root system as well.
Growth Rate: Slow to Medium

There are a variety of shapes and sizes of Junipers
(Juniperus virginiana)

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Some species tolerate light shade (J. communis) but most do not
Moisture: Medium soil moisture preferred, but these are very resistant to drought
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral to alkaline soil (6.1 - 8.0), but it can grow if very acidic to very alkaline soils.

Special Considerations for Growing:
It is likely that all species tolerates juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.

Propagation:
Easily from seed. Seeds need about 6 months stratification for germination, which can be slow. Can be grown from cuttings taken in Spring. May develop roots from branches that are buried which can later be divided from the mother plant.

Maintenance:
Weeding around the plant is needed for the first few years in the slower growing species. After that, not much maintenance is needed.

Concerns:
  • Many species are very intolerant to fires... meaning they spread forest fires well. This also means it is a pretty good fuel wood.
  • Some people can have seasonal allergies to the pollen.
  • Some species can spread too easily from seeds (mainly by birds) and can become locally invasive.