Organic Fertilizers: Wood Ashes

Wood ash is a great source of Potassium.

http://i-cdn.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/re-nest/2011-08-24-mp.jpg

What is it?
Wood ashes are the remains of fire consumed wood.  This is a fairly simple definition, but that's what it is. When people understood the benefits of wood ash in the 18th century, the British colonies of America were exporting large amounts of this material back to Great Britain.

What is the primary benefit?
Wood ash is a good source of Potash (aka potassium... in a water soluble form). It is also a good source of other trace minerals. When wood burns, the nitrogen and sulfur are lost as gases. What remains is potassium (potash) plus calcium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, manganese, and sodium. There are also other minerals present to a lesser degree including aluminum, arsenic, boron, cadmium, chromium, copper, lead, mercury, molybdenum, nickel, selenium, and zinc. Some of these minerals, like arsenic and nickel, where thought to be poisons to biological life. However, we know now that most of these minerals actually have a vital, albeit very small, role in the biology of microorganisms and plants. Returning these minerals and trace elements to the soil will allow our plants and soils microbes to utilize what they need for a healthy life. Also, wood ash helps to raise the pH of acidic soils - this is the calcium carbonate component (aka garden lime). Most soils could use this unless you are growing acid-loving plants like blueberries. See NOTE below.

Ash from our fireplaces and wood stoves are not "waste"!

(Permaculture Principle Six states: Produce No Waste)

http://askmedicalnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/wood-burning-stoves.jpg

How is it used?
Ash from our wood stoves and fireplaces can be used if we did not use chemical starters, burned chemically treated woods, burned non-plant material including cardboard and particle board which contains toxic glues. Ash can be mixed directly into the compost pile. Just sprinkle a little ash on each layer. Wood ash can be sprinkled directly on the soil (in the Spring) and lightly worked into the top layer around plants that could benefit from a boost of potassium, calcium, and pH. Hardwoods will produce three times as much ash and five times as many nutrients than softwoods.

Application:
If you soil has adequate potassium levels: 3-5 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has medium potassium levels: 5-10 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has low potassium levels: 10-20 lbs per 1,000 square feet
or
about one half to one pound ash around each shrub

Composition:
NPK Ratio:  0-1-3 to 0-1.5-8 (depends on the source of wood, the age of the ash, and other factors)


A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:
Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.

Organic Fertilizers: Sawdust

Sawdust can often be easily found.

http://www.glosco-wood.com/MyImages/sawdust%201.jpg

What is it?
Sawdust is the powdery by-product of cutting wood with a saw. Pretty simple really.

What is the primary benefit?
Sawdust is a great source of organic matter for our fertilizer and our soil.  Depending on where we live, we may have access to large amounts of sawdust. Where I am right now in Turkey, there are a number of lumber mills near me. Each year I am frustrated by the site of men pouring gasoline on huge piles of sawdust and just burning it off. Remember, Permaculture Principle Six tells us to Produce No Waste! What a great way to repurpose this "waste" product... instead of just burning it.

Large amounts of sawdust of often burned or discarded... losing a valuable resource!

http://www.katahdingateway.com/lincoln/images/hardwood-sawdust-pile.jpg

How is it used?
The first thing to keep in mind before using sawdust, is to make sure that it is well rotted (2-4 years) before incorporating it onto our land or into our compost piles. Just leave piles of it out in the weather, and time will do all the work.

The reason it should be rotted first, is that the process of decomposition of wood binds nitrogen, and nitrogen is needed by our plants. Unless you are using sawdust in a Hugelkultur application, then let it rot first. If you apply sawdust directly to your soil, then watch for nitrogen deficiency (pale green leaves and slowed growth). Add some additional nitrogen fertilizer (Blood Meal would be a good choice) if needed.

Note - Do not use sawdust from chemically treated lumber. Just ask before you collect it!

Application:
Add rotted sawdust to your soil or compost directly.
Add fresh sawdust sparingly to established plants or mix 2-3:1 with manure or other nitrogen-rich source (2-3 parts sawdust to 1 part manure).
Add fresh sawdust to an area of land you are planning on improving in the future (2-4 years) and let it rot in place.


If your soil has adequate organic matter levels: 100 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If your soil has medium organic matter levels: 150 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If your soil has low organic matter levels: 250 lbs per 1,000 square feet


Composition:
NPK Ratio:  0.2-0.0-0.2


A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:
Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.

Organic Fertilizers: Coffee Grounds

Coffee Grounds are a common additive to compost.

http://www.childrenshospital.vanderbilt.org/blogs/CHAMPSGardens/wp-content/uploads/Coffee-Grounds-3.jpg

What is it?
Coffee Grounds are what is left over after making coffee.  Coffee beans are ground and then steeped in water to make coffee.  Old coffee seeds or ground coffee that has not been steeped can be used as well.

What is the primary benefit?
Coffee Grounds are a good source of nitrogen.  It is not amazing, but with the ready supply that most people in the U.S. have to coffee grounds, it is a good way to recycle/repurpose with a great benefit. Remember, Permaculture Principle Six tells us to Produce No Waste!  If we can't find a use for the things that others would call "waste", then maybe we need to rethink our use of that item.

Composting Coffee Grounds is a great way to "produce no waste".

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_cbu0jiyJiHI/TQ9MOye-y3I/AAAAAAAACjE/3ybgNG5rL3c/coffee%20grinds.JPG

How is it used?
The primary use of Coffee Grounds is as an additive to compost.  If you use a lot of it in your compost, be forewarned.  Coffee Grounds are acidic.  The way to combat acidifying your compost is by adding lime or limestone to your compost. This is a tricky thing. How acidic is your compost? How much compost do you have? If you have a whole lot of Coffee Grounds (your friend works at Starbucks or Caribou Coffee), and you don't want to worry too much about it, then let your compost age for 1-2 years before you use it.  That seems like a long time, but if you have a steady supply, setting up some piles in an out of the way place is fairly easy.  The time will go by faster than you know it.  Sadly, it always does.

Application:
Added to the compost and not typically directly to the soil.  If you add it to the soil directly, then do so in moderation around acid loving, high nitrogen-utilizing plants such as fruit trees and fruiting shrubs (blueberries come quickly to mind).

Composition:
NPK Ratio:  2-0.3-0.2    Dried Coffee Grounds have an NPK Ratio of 2-0.3-0.7.  Not drastically different, but interesting nonetheless.


A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:
Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.

Organic Fertilizers: Bone Meal

Bone Meal is a good source of phosphorus.

What is it?
Bone Meal is a dry powder made from crushed and ground bones.  Typically, the source is bone from cattle processing plants.  The bones are generally cooked or steamed, dried, and then crushed and ground (either coarsely or finely).

What is the primary benefit?
Bone Meal is a great source of phosphorus.  It is also a good source of calcium.

How is it used?
It can be added to the soil at anytime of the year, but often it is used during planting individual plants (very common with bulbs and roses).  It is typically sprinkled into the planting hole.  On existing plants, it can be applied once a year as it is a very slow release fertilizer.  It is usually sprinkled over the surface of the soil, under the mulch layer, and lightly worked/blended into the soil.  The mulch layer is then replaced.

Application:
If you soil has adequate nitrogen levels: 10 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has medium nitrogen levels: 20 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has low nitrogen levels: 30 lbs per 1,000 square feet
or
about 3-7 cups per 100 square feet
or
from 1/2 tablespoon (per bulb or small plant) to 1/2 cup per rose bush
or
1/2 cup per each 1/2 inch truck diameter of tree

Composition:
NPK Ratio:  1-11-0, but some can have content ranging from 1-13-0, 4-12-0, or 6-12-0 depending on the source... but it is basically a high natural source of phosphate.
20-25% total phosphate
24% calcium

Note:
Bone Meal, when used as an animal feed, may be a vector for transmitting prion diseases.  The most well known prion disease is bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), aka "Mad Cow Disease".  It is thought that sheep bone meal, when fed to cattle, caused a cross-species spread of a prion disease.  This makes me think two things.  First, what in the world were people thinking feeding herbivores (cattle) animal products (sheep)????  Second, examine your sources, and consider using a mask when applying bone meal in your garden or on your land.  I am not overly concerned about developing a prion disease from bone meal, but a mask is an easy preventive measure to reduce the bone meal dust we could possibly breathe.

A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:
Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.

Organic Fertilizers: Blood Meal

Blood Meal is the highest natural source of Nitrogen

http://www.wallace.co.nz/site/wallacecorporation/images/BloodMeal.jpg

What is it?
Blood Meal is a dry powder made from blood.  Typically, the source is blood from cattle processing plants.  The blood is mixed with an anticoagulant and then spun to separate the plasma from the red blood cells.  The red blood cells are then sprayed into a low heat kiln where a powder is formed.  This is the finished product of Blood Meal.

What is the primary benefit?
Blood Meal is a great source of nitrogen, the highest natural source of nitrogen.  It is typically used for high nitrogen utilizing plants.  Any plant that fruits or any fast growing green plant often uses a lot of nitrogen.  If our plants are looking yellow, application of a high nitrogen fertilizer like Blood Meal will often make our garden green and lush again.

How is it used?
It can be added to the soil at anytime of the year, but typically it is used during the growing season.  It is typically sprinkled over the surface of the soil, or it can be worked/blended into the soil.  It can also be mixed in a high carbon compost heap (one that has a lot of "brown" material, and not enough "green" material).  It is a rapid release fertilizer, and typically reapplication is not needed more often then every four months.  The nitrogen will be released faster in more moist conditions.  It should not be used on seedlings or plants that can "burn" from too much or too high levels of nitrogen.  Blood Meal is soluble in water, and it can be mixed with water to be used as a liquid fertilizer.  Some people will use it to deter rabbits (vegetarians).  However, other animals, like dogs and racoons (carnivores and omnivores), may be attracted to Blood Meal.  If it is going to be used as a rabbit deterrent, it may be more effective if used in small containers instead of spread into the soil.

Application:
If you soil has adequate nitrogen levels: 10 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has medium nitrogen levels: 20 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has low nitrogen levels: 30 lbs per 1,000 square feet
or
about 4 oz per square yard

Composition:
NPK Ratio:  11-0-0, 12-0-0, 13-1-0, or other similar variations depending on the source... either way, it is the highest natural source of nitrogen.

A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:

Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.

Organic Fertilizers: Greensand

Greensand in Texas

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Greensand.jpg

What is it?
Greensand is a sand or sandstone that has a green color to it.  It is formed from organic sediment in marine environments.  It contains a high percentage of the mineral glauconite (an iron potassium sillicate) which is greenish black/blue.

What is the primary benefit?
Potassium in a water-soluable form called potash.  While the main component of greensand, the mineral glauconite, is not readily water soluble, it will eventually erode and slowly release the potassium into the soil.

Greensand comes in a powdered form.

http://www.organicgardeninfo.com/images/greensand.jpg

How is it used?
It can be added to the soil at anytime of the year.  It is typically sprinkled over the surface of the soil, or it can be worked/blended into the soil.

Application
If you soil has adequate potassium levels: 25 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has medium potassium levels: 50 lbs per 1,000 square feet
If you soil has low potassium levels: 100 lbs per 1,000 square feet

Composition:
NPK Ratio:  0-0-7
7% potash (potassium)
32 trace minerals

A GENERAL NOTE ABOUT FERTILIZERS:

Always test your soil before adding any fertilizers.  We can easily damage our plants and the soil by indiscriminately adding soil amendments.