Permaculture Plants: Sorrel

A patch of wild Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) 

http://www.ediblebritain.co.uk/images/plant/Sorrel_01825.JPG

Common Name: Sorrel
Scientific Name: Rumex species
Family: Polygonaceae (the Buckwheat or Smartweed family)

It is easy to see why Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) is also called Red Sorrel

http://lettersfromsheppey.blogspot.pt/2011_05_01_archive.html

Common Species:

• French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) 
• Sheep's, Red, or Field Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)
• Monk's Rhubarb (Rumex alpinus)
• Herb Patience (Rumex patientia)
• Buckler-Leaved or French Sorrel (Rumex scutatus)

Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) has a more spade-shaped leaf.

http://greenlifeinsocal.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/097-sorrel.jpg

Description:
Docks and Sorrels are closely related species belonging to the Rumex genus. Most species are considered "weeds", but the ones listed here have a fantastically refreshing and bright flavor - think lemony lettuce! The flowers, seeds, and even roots are edible as well. They attract beneficial insects, mine for minerals in the soil, and are drought-tolerant to name but a few of their traits. An easy to maintain addition in the Forest Garden.

Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/78/Rumex_acetosa_Sturm59.jpg

Sheep, Red, or Field Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

http://fr.academic.ru/pictures/frwiki/82/Rumex_acetosella_Sturm58.jpg

History:
There are over 200 species in the Rumex genus. Where these plants were not native, they were introduced on purpose or on accident, and they can now be found the world over. Only a few species of Sorrel have had much interest by plant breeders, so the wild plants are what we have.

Trivia:

• "Sorrel" is also used to describe parts or tea from the Hibiscus which is popular around the Equator, but has no relation to the Rumex species
• Sorrel is used fresh and cooked around the world in traditional cuisine most commonly in Europe, but also Africa and Asia
• Sheep Sorrel was used to revegetate overgrazed fields in Australia

Sorrel is best picked when leaves are young and tender.

http://www.sarahraven.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/r/french-sorrel.jpg

Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - here's a recipe for soup:

http://gonetoseed.wordpress.com/2011/05/04/sorrel-soup/

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Edible Leaves - unique fruity, sour (lemony) taste. Can be used raw (salads, on sandwiches, etc.) or cooked like spinach (soups, sauces, stews, pastries, spanakopita, quiches, etc.). The leaves may even be boiled to impart a lemony flavor to the water which is cooled and sweetened and used like lemonade.
• Edible Flowers - typically used as a garnish for salads, but may be cooked as well.
• Edible Roots - Some species have a large taproot which can be dried, ground, and used as a flour adjunct
• Edible Seeds - May be eaten raw or cooked. May be dried, ground, and used as a flour adjunct

Secondary Uses:

• General insect nectar plant
• Dynamic Accumulator Plant - Excellent! (Potassium, Phosphorus, Calcium, Iron, Sodium)
• Groundcover Plant
• Pioneer Species - the deep roots can help break up hardened soils
• Drought Tolerant Species
• Juice from the leaves can be used to curdle milk
• Juice from the leaves can be used to clean stains in clothing
• Dye Plant - roots, leaves, and stems
• Likely a decent feed plant for most domestic animals - chickens will eat the seeds (let them harvest themselves!) and greens sparingly

Harvesting: Spring harvest for leaves. Pick when young as older leaves are more fibrous.
Storage: Used fresh most commonly, but the leaves can be dried and used later.

Monk's Rhubarb is tolerant of cold climates, like alpine regions, hence its scientific name.

(Rumex alpinus) 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Rumex_alpinus_a1.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone:

• French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - Zone 3-9
• Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) - Zone 1-9 
• Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) - Zone 3-9

AHS Heat Zone: 

• French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - Zone 6-1 
• Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella): 10-1 
• Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) - Zone 6-1

Chill Requirement: No reliable information can be found

Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous (some varieties are evergreen)
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer, Groundcover Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species available. Some few have been improved.

Pollination: May be Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile or Dioecious (male and female plants) depending on the species. Pollinated by wind.
Flowering: May-September

Life Span: No reliable information can be found, but as these plants reseed so easily, it is almost a moot question.

Sorrel's have small flowers that attract small, beneficial insects.

Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

http://warehouse1.indicia.org.uk/upload/Sorrel,%20Sheep's%20(Rumex%20acetosella)%20Donkey%20Lane%20Allotments%20Sapcote%20SP%204860%209304%20(taken%209.7.2006).JPG

While many species have taproots, all species have deep-growing roots.

Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

http://www.healthfreedom.info/P1010522.JPG

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 

• French or Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - 12-36 inches tall and 12 inches wide
• Sheep's Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) - 6 inches tall and indefinitely wide
• Buckler-Leaved Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) - 12 inches tall and 12-24 inches wide

Roots: Deep and fibrous, some species have a taproot; Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) has stolons (stems called "runners" that grow along the ground and produce roots, and then new plants)
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast

While not its main use, Sorrels can produce a decent amount of seed.

Herb Patience (Rumex patientia)

http://web.ewu.edu/ewflora/Polygonaceae/rum_pat1_ps.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Most species tolerate light shade, although some can tolerate moderate shade
Moisture: Dry to medium-moisture soils
pH: can tolerate a very wide range of soils (3.5-8.5)

Special Considerations for Growing: None

Propagation: 
Typically, and easily, by seed - direct sow in Spring. Can transplant "wild" specimens. Can divide plants in Spring.

Maintenance:
None. Flowering will stop new leaf growth, so you can encourage young leaf growth by cutting off the flowering stem.

Concerns:

• Poisonous - Leaves and contain oxalic acid. Large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic. When cooked, much of the oxalic acid is reduced.
• Running types can be expansive - they can grow all over the place.
• Many varieties of Sorrel reseed very easily, so some consider them a bit invasive... I see this as a great trait!

Permaculture Plants: Stinging Nettle

The Stinging Nettle - a beautiful plant with an attitude!

This photo is from my yard

Common Name: Stinging Nettle
Scientific Name: Urtica dioica
Family: Urticaceae (the Nettle family)

Perfect young shoot for harvesting

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Brennnessel_1.JPG/1258px-Brennnessel_1.JPG

Description:
A harbinger of Spring, the Stinging Nettle has long been used as a food and medicinal plant. Yes, they do sting, but it is not that bad. I accidentally discovered them in my garden about a week ago when planting some garlic bulbs (see my prior article about using sprouted garlic). I was pushing some new growth back to clear a small patch of soil when I felt a sharp pain on the back of my hand. It felt like a fire ant sting, which I have had plenty of experience with growing up in south Florida. But there was no insect on my hand. I looked around and found a tiny Stinging Nettle plant a few inches tall. This meant two things... First, I needed to get some gloves. Second, it was foraging time!

I did a quick search around my neighborhood and discovered a large patch in my neighbor's yard. I harvested a large bag full and took them home. My neighbor was happy to have me cut some of his "weeds" back. He was a bit skeptical about their being edible. I explained that the "sting" is neutralized within about 30 seconds when exposed to heat. I also showed him how you can even eat them raw, if done the right way, but he wasn't about to try it. I took my new picked treasure home and made some Stinging Nettle and Pork Belly soup with a homemade duck stock... delicious! That same neighbor came over and tentatively tasted the soup, then proceeded to devour it, raving about how good it was. Another convert!

Another photo from my yard - you can just barely see the hairs on the leaf

Now, most people would not plant these on purpose, but they often will pop up in yards, typically in rich, moist soils. If you have a larger property, you can "cultivate" them in an out of the way corner. If you have some real land, then you likely already have them growing somewhere. It is just a matter of locating them. This is when I would consider Nature Tending.

Stinging Nettle can be eaten, used for tea, used medicinally, and used to make a fiber similar to linen. They are also attractors of beneficial insects. The plants accumulate large amounts of nutrients, and if composted can be a valuable fertilizer to your garden. These are resilient and useful plants that have a poor disposition, but are worth the trouble in my opinion.

Urtica dioica

http://www.thrivenaturalmedicine.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Stinging-nettles.jpg

History:
Native to the Northern Hemisphere, Stinging Nettle has long been used for medicine and food. It has been introduced around the world, and is now seen more as a weed than a beneficial plant.

A real close up view of the stinging hairs (large) and non-stinging hairs (small)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fe/Urtica_dioica_hairs.jpg

Trivia:

• The sting from Stinging Nettles comes from their stinging hairs, called trichomes. Stinging Nettles are covered with hairs, but not many are actually the stinging hairs. These stinging hairs are on the underside of the leaves and on the stems. When touched, the tip of the hair is displaced, and what is left resembles a hypodermic needle. This needle will inject chemicals that cause itching, irritation, and pain.
• Stinging Nettles inject histamine, acetylcholine, serotonin, morodin, leukotrienes, and formic acid (formic acid give fire ants their "fire").
• Stinging Nettle leaves can be eaten raw... just hold the leaf only on the top side, fold it over on itself to cover the stinging hairs on the underside of the leaf, roll it up, squeeze it a bit to make sure the stinging hairs are all crushed, then take a bite. Yes, I have done this. No, I did not get stung. Yes, it tastes good!
• Exposing Stinging Nettle to heat for about 30 seconds (like boiling water for tea or soup) neutralizes the sting, as does drying the leaves
• There are many species in the genus Urtica that are likely all edible, but check with local experts before you start foraging for other species.

Stinging Nettle Soup is delicious!

Here is a link to one recipe... I'll share mine soon.

Stinging Nettle leaves dry very well... and the sting is gone!

http://littlemisscruciferous.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_2902.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Edible Leaves - used fresh and cooked briefly; leaves dry well and can be stored for later use
• Tea Plant - fresh or dried leaves are used

Secondary Uses:

• Dynamic Accumulator (Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Copper, Iron, and Sodium) - excellent addition to compost
• Manure Tea Plant - high in Nitrogen
• Lacewings prefer to lay eggs on Stinging Nettle leaves
• Ladybugs prefer Stinging Nettle foliage
• Fiber Plant - obtained from the stems. Makes a strong fiber similar to flax which can be used to make cloth similar to linen. The fiber can also be used to make paper
• The seeds can be pressed to produce an oil that can be used in lamps
• Dye (green) from the leaves and stems
• Extensive medicinal use
• Juice from the leaves have been used for hundreds of years to curdle milk for cheese making if rennet is not available
• Drinks can be made from the young shoots - non-alcoholic drinks similar to ginger-beer and alcoholic drinks like beer and wine

Harvesting: Spring. Leaves are best when the plant is less than 3 feet tall, before flowering has occurred. Ideal is when they are under a foot tall. Use gloves to avoid the stinging hairs on the underside of the leaves and stems.
Storage: Can be dried and used as needed. Many people will just keep the fresh leaves in a brown paper bag, shaking occasionally, until dried.

An out of the way corner of a larger property is great for Stinging Nettle

http://i50.tinypic.com/2rho3ra.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-8
AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information available.
Chill Requirement: No reliable information available.

Plant Type: Herbaceous Perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous, but can be "evergreen" in areas with mild winters
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer, Ground Cover Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many subspecies and varieties, but no significant development

Pollination: Plants are dioecious, meaning they have either male or female flowers (hence the scientific name: dioica). Both male and female plants (typically a 1:8 ratio) are needed to produce seeds.
Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
No reliable information available, but not really needed. These plants spread so easily with runners and seed, that as soon as one plant dies, another will take its place.

The spreading nature of the Stinging Nettle makes it a pretty good ground cover...

...but also tricky to eradicate.

http://www.whatscookinnow.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/stinging-nettle.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 1-6.5 feet (30-200 centimeters) tall, usually about 3 feet (100 cm) tall, and indefinitely wide
Roots: Fibrous roots which have stolons (aka "runners" - stems right at ground level that form roots) and rhizomes (roots that spread along ground level), both of which can form new plants
Growth Rate: Fast

The flowers of the Stinging Nettle are tiny, but develop many seeds.

http://www.bio.brandeis.edu/fieldbio/medicinal_plants/images/nettle_flower_full.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Shade: Tolerates medium shade
Moisture: Medium, but can tolerate fairly wet soils
pH: tolerates a fairly wide range of soils (5.5 - 7.5)

Special Considerations for Growing:
Tolerates juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Consider using this tree as a buffer between your walnuts and other plantings.

Propagation: Few people propagate this plant on purpose, but transplanting young plants from stolons or rhizomes is easy. Seeds easily - just rub the mature seed heads, releasing the seeds, over where you want the Stinging Nettle to grow.

Maintenance:
None required.
To control growth and spread try these methods, and always protect your hands and arms:

• Cut off the flowering heads to reduce seed production - typically done in late Summer when the plants are tall. A scythe is a great tool for this job.
• At least once a season, and maybe a few times, pull up any plant that is growing outside of where you want the Stinging Nettles to grow. 

Concerns:

• Stinging Nettle can spread fast through runners and easily through seed.
• Stinging Nettle can... well, sting! Some people have a very small reaction, and others will have a more significant local reaction.
• Consuming too much nettle and especially from older leaves can cause a laxative effect - which is one of the medicinal uses
• Older leaves contain cystoliths which can irritate the kidneys - another reason to use just the tender, young leaves which taste better anyway!

Permaculture Plants: Rhubarb

Rhubarb, one of the few well known perennial vegetables.

https://www.quickcrop.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Rhubarb-timperley-early1.jpg

Common Name: Rhubarb
Scientific Name: Rheum species
Family: Polygonaceae (the Knotweed, Smartweed, Buckwheat family)

The large leaves are a great biomass accumulator

http://thegreenthumb20.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/006.jpg

Common Species:

• Himalayan Rhubarb (Rheum australe)
• Sikkim Rhubarb (Rheum nobile)
• Turkey or Chinese Rhubarb (Rheum palmatum)
• Da Huang (Rheum palmatum tanguticum)
• False Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum)
• Common Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)
• Garden Rhubarb (Rheum x cultorum or Rheum x hybridum)

Remember, only the stalks (aka petioles) are edible

http://the-plant-directory.co.uk/images/rhubarb-plant.jpg

Description:
Rhubarb, along with Asparagus, is one of the more well known perennial vegetables. The large green leaves and red stalks were once a very common site in the home garden. Nowadays, there are probably more people who have heard of this vegetable than have eaten it, although the sour leaf stalks are still commonly used in pies (typically mixed with berries and lots of sugar) or in jams (also with lots of sugar). Few people in the U.S. have eaten Rhubarb as a vegetable as they do in Asia, and even fewer people have eaten the immature flower buds like cauliflower.

Rheum rhaponticum

http://hortuscamden.com/images/plants/Rheum_rhaponticum_L._.jpg

History:
Almost all of the nearly 60 species of Rhubarb are used for food, medicine, or both. Originally from Asia, and grown for thousands of years, Rhubarb has been distributed around the world.

Trivia:

• Most commonly found Rhubarb have red stems, but there are a number of varieties (and other Rheum species) that have green or pink stems.
• Rheum palmatum is a large plant that can reach 6-10 feet tall and reportedly has a gooseberry-flavored stalk
• Rheum australe is reported to have an apple-flavored stalk.

Definitely not your grandmother's strawberry-rhubarb pie!

Click here for directions to make Rhubarb Schnapps

http://bobvivant.com/2011/06/29/rhubarb-schnapps-another-reason-to-love-nigella/

Dried Rhubarb - after it has been soaked in apple juice

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/Strawberry_Rhubarb,_Dried_Fruit.jpg/1024px-Strawberry_Rhubarb,_Dried_Fruit.jpg

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Edible Stalks – very tart. Typically cooked, but some eat them raw. In the United States, Rhubarb is cooked like a tart fruit in pies and jams, with the addition of a lot of sweetener (sugar, honey, etc.), while in Asia, Rhubarb is eaten as a vegetable similar to celery and can be used in soups and stews. Rhubarb stalks have been candied as well.
• Edible Flower Buds – cooked; similar in texture to cauliflower, but very tart.
• NOTE: due to the high amounts of oxalic acid in this plant, Rhubarb should be eaten in moderation. So what does this mean in real life? Don’t eat Rhubarb with every meal for a week. Oxalic acid inhibits the body from absorbing calcium. Over time, this can be harmful. However, considering its tartness, excessive consumption is unlikely.

Secondary Uses:

• Pioneer Plant Species
• Groundcover – plant larger species (Rheum palmatum) at 4 feet (1.2 meters); plant other species at 2.5 feet (0.8 meters)
• Dynamic Accumulator
• Biomass – on the small scale, but the leaves are not eaten, so use them for compost
• Insecticide Plant – simmering leaves in hot water yields an insecticide solution (I can find no recipes or application instructions)
• Dye Plant – some species leaves, stalks, and roots can be used to make yellow to red dyes.

Yield: Depends on the species, variety, growing conditions, and harvesting techniques.

Harvesting: Spring – Early Summer.  Cut or twist off the leafstalk. Make sure to avoid the roots and the leaves. By mid to late Summer, the oxalic acid content has climbed, and even the stalks should be avoided or at least eaten in very limited quantity. Many people, mainly commercial growers, will harvest all the stems at once. This likely puts undue stress on the plant and encourages it to go to seed. Instead, remove no more than about a third of the stalks at one time and only mature stalks; harvest the next batch of now mature stalks a few weeks later. This method will also extend the harvesting season. It is time to stop harvesting once the stalks get thin.

Storage: Eat, cook, or process right away. Fully mature stalks will keep in a cool dry place (like a refrigerator) for a few days. Stalks can be frozen as well; pre-cutting and pre-measuring will make using them easier.

Rhubarb can be used as a ground cover since those large leaves shade out weeds

http://www.spadespatula.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/rhubarbplant.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 
Himalayan Rhubarb (Rheum australe): 5-8
Sikkim Rhubarb (Rheum nobile): 7-9
Turkey or Chinese Rhubarb (Rheum palmatum): 4-7
False Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum): 3
Common Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum): 3-8
Garden Rhubarb (Rheum x cultorum or Rheum x hybridum): 1-9

AHS Heat Zone:  Garden Rhubarb (Rheum x cultorum or Rheum x hybridum): 8-5

Chill Requirement: No reliable information available.

Plant Type: Herbaceous Perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species and many, many varieties available. 

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile. Pollinated by wind.
Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: Rubarb will put out stems right away, but they should not be harvested the first year. A few can be harvest the second year.
Years to Maximum Bearing: 3-4 years is when you can start harvesting in earnest
Years of Useful Life: 10-15 years if not divided. If divided, the plant will live indefinitely. 

Not many know that Rhubarb's flower buds can be eaten like cauliflower

http://topveg.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/flower-bud-rhubarb.jpg

If not eaten, the flower buds will bloom in shades of white, pink, or red

http://topveg.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/flower-bud-rhubarb.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 meters) tall and wide for R. x cultorum, other species are larger.
Roots: Fibrous and Deep (Rheum nobile has a root that can get to 7 feet (2 meters) long)
Growth Rate: Fast

The almost otherworldly Sikkim Rhubarb, Rheum nobile

http://www.travelimg.org/flowers-of-bhutan-rheum-nobile.html

The apple-flavored Himalayan Rhubarb, Rheum australe

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Rheum_australe_Oulu_02.jpg

The large Turkish Rhubarb, Rheum palmatum, has a gooseberry flavor

http://www.plantdb.co.uk/img/Plant331.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light shade
Moisture: Medium
pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0)

Special Considerations for Growing:

• Being hardy to Zone 1, Rhubarb is one of the most cold hardy perennial vegetables available.
• If you live in areas warmer than Zone 7, consider growing Rhubarb as a Winter annual or consider growing a more heat tolerant species (Rheum palmatum, Rheum nobile).
• The garden varieties are great for gardens and good soil, but consider some of the other species if you are planning on using Rhubarb as a pioneer species or planting in soil that is less than ideal.

Propagation: 
Usually by division in Spring. Can be planted from seeds, but seeds do not always produce plants similar to their parents (not true to type) – seeds do not require cold stratification.

Maintenance:

• Almost none. Very resistant to pests and disease.
• Crowns should be divided while dormant (either late Autumn or early Spring) every 4-5 years.
• Consider composting the leaves and stalks that dry up at the end of the season

Concerns:
Poisonous – Leaves and roots are toxic. There is a high amount of oxalic acid in the leaves, but it is likely the presence of an unknown glycoside that is the cause of its toxicity, not the oxalic acid.

Permaculture Plants: Chicory

Chicory is a plant with many faces.

http://www.malag.aes.oregonstate.edu/wildflowers/images/05_ChicoryMcCallAug14_03.JPG

Common Name: Common Chicory
Scientific Name: Cichorium intybus
Family: Asteraceae (the Aster, Daisy, or Sunflower family)

The "wild" Chicory is an unassuming plant and a great addition to the Forest Garden.

http://www.malag.aes.oregonstate.edu/wildflowers/images/05_ChicoryMcCallAug14_03.JPG

Belgian Endive is just one of many forms of Chicory.

http://michaelweishan.com/gardenblog/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/endive.JPG

Description:
In a similar way that Great Danes and Chihuahuas are very different forms of the same species (Canis lupus familiaris) the Chicory plant (Cichorium intybus) has been developed for a variety of uses. It may be a leaf vegetable in green, red/purple, or white/yellow that comes in a head or a dandelion-like leaf, a root crop used as a coffee substitute, and a forage plant for pasturing animals. It is a pioneer plant, a beneficial insect attractor, and helps build the soil. There is not much more we can ask from one plant!

Cichorium intybus

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Illustration_Cichorium_intybus0.jpg

History:
Well known throughout recorded history, the Chicory plant was prevalent through ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Over the years, it has spread and naturalized over the world. There is likely a variety well suited to almost all but the most extreme locations on Earth.

Trivia:

• The Common Chicory (Cichorium intybus) has many varieties of leaf vegetable including Radicchio, Sugarloaf, Belgian Endive (aka French Endive or Witlof).
• True Endive (Cichorium endive) is a closely related plant, but is a separate species.
• Root Chicory (Cichorium intybus var. sativum) is a variety of Common Chicory cultivated for its root which is used as a coffee substitute.
• Some forms of Chicory will form heads, but these are usually annual or biennial varieties and not perennial species.
• Some perennial species of Chicory will form a head in the first year, but after that the plant ceases to form tight heads.
• The tight heads of Chicory are called "chicons".

Radicchio, a type of Chicory, comes in many varieties.

http://www.bookschlepper.com/marketblog/uploaded_images/091212radicchio-vertical-782598.jpg

Grilled Radicchio (here with goat cheese and balsamic vinegar) is one of my favorites!

http://thekitchykitchen.blogspot.pt/2011/02/grilled-radicchio-with-goat-cheese.html

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Edible Greens – some varieties are developed for commercial production of salad leaves; a great, bitter, nutty-tasting leaf – perfect addition to mixed green salads; leaves can be cooked as any other green (just don't cook too long), and this reduces the bitterness. 
• Edible Roots – roasted, ground, and used as a coffee substitute

Secondary Uses:

• General insect (especially bees) nectar and pollen plant
• Insect shelter plant (especially hover flies, spiders, and parasitic wasps)
• Dynamic Accumulator – Especially potassium and calcium
• Pioneer Species
• Dye Plant - blue-ish dye from the leaves
• Pasture/Forage Species for ruminant animals

Yield: Not applicable
Harvesting: Year round. Greens are most tender and less bitter before flowering (Spring), but can be harvest through the growing season. The roots are best harvested Autumn through Winter.
Storage: Use fresh, may be stored as lettuce for up to a week. While there is no reliable information on storage of roots, I would imagine that roasted roots should last for some time before needing to be ground for coffee, although the flavor likely diminishes with time.

Chicory flowers are typically blue, but white and pink are possible.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/66/Chicory_flower_001.jpg

Chicory flowers attract many beneficial insects like this Hoverfly.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S77RHRcEObo/UBgrNtLSxnE/AAAAAAAAEas/gc_QvUvpWEQ/s0-d/CichoriumIntybus&w=2048&h=1365&ei=3T-zUKe5Far44QSshYH4Cw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=2&vpy=443&dur=2652&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=170&ty=157&sig=108726296347081610177&page=4&tbnh=171&tbnw=232&start=64&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429%2cr:15%2cs:64%2ci:345

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-9
AHS Heat Zone: 9-1
Chill Requirement: Not likely, but no reliable information available.

Plant Type: Small to Medium-sized Herbaceous Perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available.

Pollination: Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile. Also pollinated by bees.
Flowering: April - October (varies tremendously on the variety and zone)

Life Span:
No reliable information available, but as this plant self-seeds so easily, life span for an individual plant is not very relevant. Keep a patch healthy, and we’ll always have some available.

The roots of some Chicory (Cichorium intybus var. sativum) are grown as a coffee substitute.

http://nutrivize.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/explow1.jpg

The "wild" Chicory leaf strongly resembles the Dandelion.

http://www.florafinder.com/LargePhotos/D3/Cichorium_intybus-217E3B15A3.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 1-4 feet (30-120 centimeters) tall and 1-2 feet (30-60 centimeters) wide; not typically very small, but the flower spike can climb to 4 feet (120 cm).
Roots: Tuberous
Growth Rate: Fast

Some Chicory, like Puna II picture here, are used for animals on forage.

http://tuckers-seeds.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2861

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates light to moderate shade
Moisture: Medium moisture requirements
pH: tolerates a wide variety of soils (4.5-8.5)

Special Considerations for Growing:
Consider cutting back the flower stalks to extend the harvest of greens.

Propagation:  
Typically from seed. Self-seeds easily.  Large plants may be divided.

Maintenance:
Almost none. Consider cutting back the seed heads if you don’t want seedlings to spread. Although, this is a plus in a Forest Garden almost all the time.

Concerns:
Spreads easily through self-sowing of seed.

Permaculture Plants: Asparagus

Asparagus is my favorite perennial vegetable

http://www.tendertips.co.nz/images/asparagus.jpg?613

Common Name: Asparagus
Scientific Name: Asparagus officinalis
Family: Asparagaceae (the Asparagus family)

Asparagus comes in three color options.

http://www.seriouseats.com/images/20120425-spring-risotto-3.jpg

Description:
Asparagus is another one of those vegetables people either love or hate. I absolutely love fresh Asparagus and believe that they are one of the most delicious vegetables created. They can be green, purple, or white. These are the best known perennial vegetable, and can produce shoots every Spring for over 20 years. The “ferns” are quite beautiful and used as ornamentals, and the flowers attract beneficial insects. One of the best tasting vegetables for the Forest Garden.

Asparagus officinalis

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/Illustration_Asparagus_officinalis0b.jpg

History:
Native to Eurasia, Asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000 years. It was used in ancient Egypt, Syria, Spain, Greece, and Italy. It was cultivated in France in the 1400’s and England and Germany by the 1500’s. It wasn’t until the mid 1800’s that it was cultivated in North America.

A wild asparagus species (A. prostrates) on the rocky ocean cliffs of England

The cultivated or "domesticated" Asparagus (A. officinalis) can still thrive in maritime conditions.

http://ars.els-cdn.com/content/image/1-s2.0-S0960982210008110-gr1.jpg

Trivia:

• There are over 300 species in the Asparagus genus.
• Most Asparagus species are grown as ornamentals, but there are a number of edible species. These are not well known except by locals.
• Most Asparagus plants are either male or female.
• Male plants produce the best shoots.
• Female plants produce hard red berries that can easily spread new plants all over the place – one reason most growers do not grow female plants.
• Often grown as a companion plant to tomatoes as the tomato repels the Asparagus Beetle (Crioceris species), and the asparagus may repel nematodes.
• Asparagus shoots are typically green, but purple varieties have been developed.
• White Asparagus is not a variety – any shoot can be blanched by covering with mulch, soil, dark buckets, or black plastic tarp tunnels. White Asparagus is less bitter and more tender than green Asparagus.
• When Asparagus is digested, certain compounds found in the shoot are metabolized and excreted in the urine. These compounds have a strong smell which gives urine a distinctive post-Asparagus-eating odor. The compounds can be found in the urine in as little as 15 minutes after ingesting the vegetable.

Grilled Asparagus... by far my favorite way to eat Asparagus!

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOVt2UZ_QfNrmRvBFXiG2VrMJ7QrZUjPHG19BYja7Kyx5LLsCW1lghoG1F5nDi4bk3Kca8v_lZHDgM7mK4JCEtuMrXUjf5llKBRyjexTp3YQH3UenLasvaSkKQWcr7UNz0pOXtH4lPopDx/s1600/DSCN5757.JPG

USING THIS PLANT
Primary Uses:

• Edible Shoots – raw or cooked. Can be blanched, steamed, poached, sautéed, fried, stir-fried, grilled, used in soups and stews. Can be pickled.

Secondary Uses:

• General insect (especially bees) nectar plant
• Maritime plant – can tolerate salty conditions
• Ornamental plant – the “fern” is highly regarded
• Roasted seeds have been used as a coffee substitute

Yield: About ½ pound (0.23 kg) per crown or 20-25 spears per crown each year once established.

Harvesting: 
Spring. Cut or snap the shoots off at soil level. Once established (after year 3), the harvest can last for 3-8 weeks in the Spring. Less harvesting of weaker plants will allow it to grow stronger for next season.

Storage: 
Use right away. Asparagus does not store well. The flavor difference in freshly picked Asparagus and the stuff you buy at the grocery store is vast… makes eating store bought Asparagus rather depressing.

The small Asparagus flowers are popular with beneficial insects...

http://www.cas.vanderbilt.edu/bioimages/biohires/a/hasof--fl35270.jpg

...especially honeybees!

http://sticktoplanbee.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/bee_pollen_aspargus2.jpg

The Asparagus berries are considered poisonous

http://uglyberry.com/content/files/2011/06/PoisonberryAsparagus-26.jpg

DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT
USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-9
AHS Heat Zone: 8-1
Chill Requirement: Yes, see Special Considerations for Growing below.

Plant Type: Herbaceous Perennial
Leaf Type: Deciduous
Forest Garden Use: Herbaceous Layer
Cultivars/Varieties: Many species and varieties available.

Pollination: Most Asparagus are Dioecious (male and female flowers are on separate male and female plants). Needs both male and females within relatively close proximity for viable seeds to be developed. Pollinated by bees.

Flowering: Summer

Life Span:
Years to Begin Bearing: 3 years before a significant harvest can be taken. No shoots should be harvested in the first year. We can harvest a few shoots the second year (6-8 spears per plant). By the third year, we can start to harvest in earnest (20-25 spears per plant). Things start to boom during the third year in a typical Asparagus patch. This delay in harvesting allows the plants to become firmly established and healthy.
Years of Useful Life: An Asparagus bed can be healthy and productive for 20+ years, although 10-15 years is more typical

Using Asparagus crowns are a great way to get your patch started.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3nJifFYze62XALSZkgzjfmmcym35orxwJxe4q0USmWiI-E95FasPy2owmLrpGwg7LLnFBjPuwCz47YYdj8j1e96Ppxs9zVHTSswUQWsmu3jDe8HIPpSccDRf5axpzU-ROgBW_Pz11u7w/s1600/asparagus%20grow%202.jpg

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT
Size: 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 meters) tall and 1-3 feet (0.3-0.9 meters) wide
Roots: Rhizomatous – underground runners that send up new plants
Growth Rate: Medium

The standard way to grow Asparagus.

Permaculture Forest Gardens let us break away from this unhealthy monoculture.

http://pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com/files/2011/04/asparagus_field-1.jpg

Incorporating Asparagus into the Forest Garden is significantly better.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Asperge_planten_Asparagus_officinalis.jpg

GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT
Light: Prefers full sun
Shade: Tolerates moderate shade
Moisture: Medium moisture soils that are well draining
pH: prefers neutral soil (6.5 - 7.5); however, it can grow is a wide range of soils (4.3-8.2)

Special Considerations for Growing:

• Asparagus can be grown from seed or one year old plants known as crowns. If growing from seed, you will need to remove the fruit bearing female plants to avoid the seeds from spreading, along with new Asparagus plants, everywhere around your property. Growing from seed is cheaper, but adds another year to wait for a significant harvest. Growing from crowns is simpler and faster, but costs more for the plants.
• Asparagus needs a period of dormancy every year. This dormancy can be induced with cold weather or dry conditions (i.e drought). This rest period is essential for good shoot production.

Propagation: May also be divided in the early Spring. May be planted from seed. Germination takes 3-6 weeks.

Maintenance:
Moderate. At the end of each season, the dried brown plant can be cut back and thrown into the compost pile. During the growing season, pests and diseases do like to attack Asparagus. Careful monitoring and intervention are needed to avoid, treat, or intervene with this. As I do not plan to grow Asparagus commercially, some disease and insect loss will be part of my expectation. I will intervene when I come across diseased plants, but by planting more than needed and losing some to disease and pests, the strongest will survive and produce better for me in the long run. Also, if you want White Asparagus, a lot more work is needed in covering the shoots to blanch them.

Concerns:

• Poisonous – berries are mildly poisonous (large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic). Consuming large quantities of the shoots has been reported to cause kidney irritation, but what exactly that means is not clear. Likely, one has to consume more than would be reasonable for a person to consume for this to occur.
• Can spread easily through seed if a female plant is present.

Here is a link to a great little video from BBC on planting Asparagus crowns. It is done in a conventional raised bed, but the same concepts can be applied to a Forest Garden.