Showing posts with label Hugelkultur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hugelkultur. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Questions from Readers: What Trees to Use and Avoid in Hugelkultur Beds?


The cut branches from my recently trimmed fig tree.


Can I use the timber from the fig trees to build a Hugelkultur raised beds? 
-Valter


I recently had a reader post a question on my article, Pruning the Fig Tree... Wood for smoking and heat!  For more information on hugelkultur beds, you can read about them in my article on Permaculture Projects: Hugelkultur.


The short answer is to Valter's question is yes.

Here is the long answer...

To be honest, almost any tree, shrub, or woody material can be used for hugelkultur beds. Well, in fact, any wood at all can be used in hugelkultur beds, but some woods should really be avoided.

The benefit of a hugelkultur beds is likely derived from numerous things. First, as the wood slowly breaks down, the rotting material acts like a sponge. This "sponge" holds on to water and slowly releases it over time. Any plants which are growing above it will be able to stay hydrated with deep roots during periods of little or no rainfall for much longer than other plants nearby. Great!

Second, as the tree rots, it will slowly be giving off nutrients, specifically nitrogen, which will act as a slow release fertilizer. Perfect!

Third, fungus and bacteria are some of the key players in the rotting process. These organisms are also vital components to the underground network of soil life. When we place logs and branches underground (remember that they are already going to be inoculated with local fungus and bacteria, and they will readily welcome new fungus and bacteria as well) we are jump starting the intricate soil web of life. We are placing highways and tunnels all through the soil which will shoot these beneficial life forms under everything we grow. We are, in effect, helping to create an established forest soil in a matter of hours or days. Amazing!

There are likely many more benefits to hugelkultur and probably dozens of more things that are going on in wood and soil, but this is what we know for sure right now.

With all that said, all trees will eventually break down and be of benefit to the soil life. However, when we are designing Permaculture systems, and especially when we are trying to reclaim a barren soil or overgrazed pasture, then we want to expedite things a bit. And some wood just takes too long to rot.

So we should avoid using wood that naturally resists rotting in our hugelkultur beds. Here are some examples of trees that are considered to be very or significantly rot-resistant:

  • Chestnut (Castanea species)
  • Catalpa species (Catalpa species)
  • Cypress species (Family Cupressaceae) i.e. Bald Cypress
  • Walnuts (Juglans species) - note that these trees also release juglone, a natural growth inhibitor
  • Juniper species (Juniperus species) i.e. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
  • Osage-Orange (Maclura pomifera)
  • Red Mulberry (Morus rubra)
  • Oak (Quercus species)
  • Black Cherry (Prunus serotina)
  • Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)
  • Sassafras species (Sassafras species)
  • Redwood species (Sequoia species)
  • Pacific Yew (Taxus brevifolia)

Friday, June 24, 2011

Permaculture Projects: Hugelkultur

Anatomy of Hugelkultur

What is Hugelkultur?
This is a German compound word - aren't they all?
It translates as mound/hill (hugel --> WHO-gull) + culture/cultivation (kultur --> cull-chur).

Hugelkultur is making raised beds that are filled with rotting wood.  It is such a simple concept, but it is an amazing method to use.

Wood pile core of a hugelkultur bed

Benefits of Hugelkultur
  • Full of slowly decomposing organic matter
  • Full of nutrients.
  • Builds fertility over time.
  • The rotting wood is a massive sponge for water (read that: very little or sometimes no irrigation needed - fantastic method of water harvesting/preservation).
  • Heat from the decomposing wood helps create a warmer microclimate
  • It will last for YEARS!  30 years for a deep bed is not unheard of in climates without a high rainfall.  10-15 yrs for a deep bed in areas with high rainfall.  5 yrs or so for shallower beds.  As the bed ages, it will slowly shrink further and further down to the ground.

Side by side comparison of growing cantaloupes - seeds from the same packet!
Left - traditional garden method; Right - a very shallow hugelkultur bed
Look at the difference!

Creating Hugelkultur
Find your woody material.
This can be downed trees, old firewood, pruned branches and twigs, rotten logs, etc.
Wood can be fresh or rotting.  Rotten wood does decompose faster.
Just about any wood can be used.  Paul Wheaton recommends against Black Locust (since it almost never rots!), Cedar (it has natural pesticides and herbicides), and Black Walnut (contains a chemical that prevents plants from growing near it).

Mound your woody material
Lay the wood in a long mound.
It can be any height you want it to be.  1-2 feet is common in backyard gardens, but Sepp Holzer builds his mounds 5-6 feet high.
You can also lay the wood in a dug trench, so that the total height is not as high above ground level.

Cover your woody material
If you are not going to plant immediately, you can add additional compostable items: grass clippings, manure, kitchen scraps, garden waste, sod, etc.
Cover with a few inches of soil and/or compost.

Plant your mound
That's it!

Sepp Holzer's Raised Bed System... really a form of Hugelkultur
Please click on the diagram or link below to see a larger image.
Concerns about Hugelkultur
If you are using fresh wood, there is concern that nitrogen will be sucked into the wood during initial stages of decomposition.  While that is technically true, it appears that this system either mitigates that due to a concurrent release of nitrogen or due to an unknown mechanism unique to this technique.  Either way, people plant vegetables (high nitrogen utilizers) right away into brand-new hugelkultur beds all the time with fantastic results.

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